Omex Rev Limiter Fitting Guide

  1. #1
    Ok well I know opinions on them are divided, but those who do want to fit them I thought I would create a guide, as I found it impossible to find much help and I could see a lot of people asking very similar questions. Anyways, here it is!

    I have an 02 plate VTR, so the coilpack wires may be different for your car, so check that before you start cutting them all up!

    Now this is very simple to do, I am not mechanically minded and not very good at all with electrics, but I managed to get this all done in just half an hour.

    First things first...here is the limiter in its box.


    And below are all the tools you need:
    - wire strimmers
    - wire cutters
    - insulation tape
    - block connectors (scotch connectors are supplied but they're crap)
    - torx screwdriver
    - socket


    In the box you will get a diagram on the instructions that looks like this

    This shows pretty simply the wiring that you will need to do. Simply you can split the installation into 3 easy steps:
    Earth.
    Power.
    Coilpack connections.

    Now first thing I did was disconnect the battery. I doubt it is necessary but whenever you play with electrics I think it's a good idea!


    Now we shall start on the first part of the set up - the earth.

    You want to cut back some plastic off the BLACK negative cable coming out of the omex box.
    Then you put on a ring on the end of the wire. Due to earth point I choose I needed a larger ring, but there are some supplied with the limiter.
    Then find an earth point, it is always better to use one that's already there rather than just screw the cable into any bit of metal.
    I choose the earth point behind the carpet in the passengers footwell.





    Now we have an earth, it's time to set up the power supply. In my opinion the best choice is to use the supply to the headunit. If you follow this route then you want to connect it to YELLOW wire, as this is the ignition not constant supply, basically so the box won't drain the battery and constantly be drawing a supply.
    So you want to remove the headunit. I also removed the centre console so that I can tidy up all the wires nicely behind the carpet when I've finished.
    So having found the YELLOW supply, I cut this in half, strimmed the ends, did the same to the RED cable coming out of the rev limiter. I used a block connector as I hate the connectors that were supplied.
    Once all connected up I wrapped it all up in insulation tape to protect it.






    And that's the earth and power set up.


    Now we need to connect the rev limiter to the coilpack. You need to feed the wires through the bulkhead somewhere so that the two BLUE cables can access the engine bay. Each Saxo coilpack seems to be different, but on mine the two cables that I needed were PALE BLUE and WHITE. In order to find the wires you want to find the plug that connects into your coilpack, pull back any covering on the cable feeding into the plug from the loom and pull out your two NEGATIVE cables.
    I already had a hole drilled through for the power supply for my amp, so I fed the cables through there.
    Once in the engine bay you need to make sure the blue cables are out of the way, won't rub on anything, aren't near any moving parts and can be tied out the way.
    I sent them along the inside of the engine bay, and cable tied them out of the way.
    Once you have found your negative/signal wires into the coilpack it's time to cut them, trim off the ends of them and the blue wires, and connect them all up.
    Once all connected up it's time to insulate it all up again and you're all connected!









    Now you're all connected.


    Then you're gonna want to tidy it all up and mount the box unit somewhere.
    I wrapped up all the cables, and using the sticky pads on the back of the box I stuck it onto the side of the centre console down out the way.



    And there you go! Hope it helps those that wanted it.
    Oli
    2 users thanked this post: ,
  2. #2
    WTF?! scotchblocks?! lol


    and you're PROUD of your work?! FML.

    you have carbs?
  3. #3
    no i dont have carbs
  4. #4
    you don't need the rev limiter then, ecu does that.

    well done on wasting your money.
  5. #5
    what connectors would have suggested rather than the blocks
  6. #6
    soldered ones. That wiring is nearly as ghetto as mine haha
  7. #7
    alrite well ill soldering a go when i get a chance, im not intending on leaving it as it is before the abuse continues, i just wanted to get it wired up and see it worked, i want to route the wire through somewhere else and put a proper cover it
  8. #8
    (This is not a dig)
    Why did you want to fit one? What benefit? You already have a rev limiter on the ECU so is it just because you want "flames"?
  9. #9
    in short, yes
  10. #10
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Oli-VTR View Post
    in short, yes
    Does it work to your satisfaction?
  11. #11
    i am easily satisfied
  12. #12
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by welshpug View Post
    you don't need the rev limiter then, ecu does that.

    Well done on wasting your money.
    lmfao...
  13. #13
    How does it make it flame?
  14. #14
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by charlie7543 View Post
    How does it make it flame?
    It cuts the spark instead of the fuel, so te fuel hits the hot exhaust an bangs an flames.

    I think this is how it works anyway
  15. #15
    yeah josh has it correct
    i know opinion is divided and lots of people think they're chavy and shit and I'm sure they are but I like it so
  16. #16
    strangely thought of these earlier.
    do you control when it cuts the spark, or does it do it at a certain time?

    also, is it bad for the engine??
  17. #17
    If they give out some good flames then I don't see why people dislike them I love it when my saxo pops a cheeky flame
  18. #18
    yes you can adjust the rev limit (to any below the cars standard limit)
    engine wise i think too much overfueling can damage valve seals or something like that but you can then weigh it up against high revving if you have the limit set so
  19. #19
    yer but its probs a bog standard VTR. A bog standard VTR wouldnt do that and its just silly.

    Id rather a car/engine that did it "naturally" (so to speak) then having something fitted just to make a flame
  20. #20
    Great way to destroy your exhaust.

    If any one actually follows this as a guide Then I would suggest a fire extinguisher in the car.
  21. #21
    why a fire extinguisher?
  22. #22
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Prickle View Post
    yer but its probs a bog standard VTR. A bog standard VTR wouldnt do that and its just silly.

    Id rather a car/engine that did it "naturally" (so to speak) then having something fitted just to make a flame
    True true
  23. #23
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Oli-VTR View Post
    why a fire extinguisher?
    Because of your vintage wiring skills.

    Do you actually think they are safe and secure? They are meant for house wring that doesn't move or vibrate like a car.
  24. #24
    as i've already said i just wanted to check and i think they'll be ok until i get the chance to solder and fit it all properly. but thank you for your concern
  25. #25
    check it worked*
  26. #26
    Is there any point on a rev limiter? Other than for people who cant afford/ dont want to afford aftermarket management... You have a rev limiter on the ecu and is defined as a safe limit for the standard internals... Aftermarket management spits flames properly when lifting off the throttle...
  27. #27
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by greyjasper51 View Post
    IYou have a rev limiter on the ecu and is defined as a safe limit for the standard internals...
    not quite, its set just after where the standard camshaft allows it to produce peak power.
  28. #28
    i swear these have launch control too?
  29. #29
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by smokeandpoke View Post
    i swear these have launch control too?
    Two different versions.