at what poundage springs/setup do we think about removing front arb?

  1. #1
    as above... anyone not running a front arb?

    i am going to be using the following setup...

    choice of 250-300lbs front spring
    22mm front arb

    21mm rear tb's
    24rear arb

    bilstein grp n dampers

    i read that the rear may be better off with 23mm rather than 21's but will removing the front arb reduce a lot of front understeer...or at those poundages is the front arb useless?

    please help and feel free to discuss
  2. #2
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by sexy_gt View Post
    as above... anyone not running a front arb?

    i am going to be using the following setup...

    choice of 250-300lbs front spring
    22mm front arb

    21mm rear tb's
    24rear arb

    bilstein grp n dampers

    i read that the rear may be better off with 23mm rather than 21's but will removing the front arb reduce a lot of front understeer...or at those poundages is the front arb useless?

    please help and feel free to discuss

    I have the set up of
    350 front springs on gaz golds
    23 mm rear bars and gas golds (genuine ones the strut modded ones not the cheaper gha kit)
    With no arb I can confirm it is amazing it really handles so neutral and so planted it a definite removing the arb from around the 275 mark from my personal preference
    1 user thanked this post:
  3. #3
    Really ive not heard of this will have todo a test on this! See if i like it :-)

    Im 100% standard bar being lowered 40 front 60 rear i think... Handles well tbh
  4. #4
    i have heard an easy way to test whilst at the track is to undo one droplink on one end only.
  5. #5
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by sexy_gt View Post
    i have heard an easy way to test whilst at the track is to undo one droplink on one end only.
    Correct.

    With one end off the bar just moves up and down with the opp side suspension
  6. #6
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by sexy_gt View Post
    i have heard an easy way to test whilst at the track is to undo one droplink on one end only.
    Thats what i was thinking but remove it so it dont flap about
  7. #7
    take one drop link off
  8. #8
    Your front arb is too big, fit one off a quiksilver. I run 400lb front springs/slicks and still use a front arb.

    Imo the 106/saxo needs a front arb on tarmac, without it I found the front just flops over and the inside rear lifts up miles off the ground.
    2 users thanked this post: ,
  9. #9
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by greyjasper51 View Post
    Really ive not heard of this will have todo a test on this! See if i like it :-)

    Im 100% standard bar being lowered 40 front 60 rear i think... Handles well tbh
    unless your kidding your cars probably too soft for no arb fella
  10. #10
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Dave_P View Post
    Your front arb is too big, fit one off a quiksilver. I run 400lb front springs/slicks and still use a front arb.

    Imo the 106/saxo needs a front arb on tarmac, without it I found the front just flops over and the inside rear lifts up miles off the ground.
    ever tried without?
  11. #11
    dave
    what size mains are you running and do you have helpers at all?

    that sounds like a helper unweighting allowing the car to roll

    saw that on a car at bilstien we shortened the damper to remove the helper and run a slightly longer main to maintain the height and the problem stopped

    i may be wrong though i know you have extra castor and things

    ive been trying to work out a way of running a bladed arb up front tbh
  12. #12
    Just look at the official Saxo Kit Cars/S1600 rally cars and also the Saxo Trophy rally cars. All use front and rear ARB's in tarmac spec running high poundage springs. Says it all to me, if advantages were to be had by removing the ARB Citroen and Peugeot would have done it in their race cars.
  13. #13
    I would take a guess that they have to for rules and regs.
  14. #14
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by MaRiO89 View Post
    Just look at the official Saxo Kit Cars/S1600 rally cars and also the Saxo Trophy rally cars. All use front and rear ARB's in tarmac spec running high poundage springs. Says it all to me, if advantages were to be had by removing the ARB Citroen and Peugeot would have done it in their race cars.
    and if you look closly you will find the arb,s these use look nothing like the std one and the front suspension is nothing like the std set-up + money is no problem to a works team
    if you have £6k to spend on front suspension then buy a kit car set-up
    we are not talking about this level of suspension -so your view that it must be needed is flawed as you are comparing apples + pears --and very expensive ones at that
    as for cup cars ect you are not allowed to remove them in the rules --the idea was to have a near std car with very few mods
    1 user thanked this post:
  15. #15
    Saxo and 106 kit cars use straight arb that goes through the passenger cabin
    Probably so that they are easier to be changed to stiffer or milder ones i guess
  16. #16
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by sexy_gt View Post
    ever tried without?
    Ye, as I said above.

    Find a Quikky front arb and fit it, job done.
  17. #17
    I agree that they are obviously different, i have had a very detailed look around and underneath a couple of genuine ex works Saxo Kit Cars over in belguim. While the design etc is different, the principle is the same, they use ARB's and all of them handle out of this world.

    We use ARB's in our Cup Car and dont come in from stages thinking we need to make it handle better.

    Having said that, some people swear by taking the ARB out, it all depends how you like the car to feel so give it a try, as has been said just disconnect one side and see.
  18. #18
    The two fastest 106's racing at Castle Combe both kept them on.
  19. #19
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Jon_Doe View Post
    The two fastest 106's racing at Castle Combe both kept them on.
    each to their own i guess, tyres and other different things will make large differences to requirements...

    wonder if they have tried without at all

    also i have only driven mine without at cadwell in the wet. was brillinat compared to with. i am very keen to have a thrash in the dry
  20. #20
    After a lot of readon over the christmas period there are some principles which may be helpful and back up why a small arb might be helpful.

    The aim is to keep the drive wheels on the ground, so in this case the result of anti roll bars needs to be less at the front. The roll overall should be kept to a minimum. Higher anti roll can be used at the back. The suspension should be balanced.

    We probably knew all this already but high rate springs at the front reacting to the various bumps and being less affected by a roll bar is maybe what we are all talking about. Balance is important of front/ rear stiffness but from my reading, it would point me towards making up the non drive wheels with more anti roll rather than spring (and why not with a lighter back end- you dont want it skipping but you dont want it sagging) and on the drive wheels more spring and less anti roll.
    1 user thanked this post:
  21. #21
    last sunday i broke a drop link and tryed whith out it.

    i didnt feel to mutch difrence, i was just for 3 laps, cv boot lost lub and the long shaft RIP.

    it seams the car is more loose..????and added FORGIVENESS CAPABILITY.!!
    nead more time to check this one...

    .i run 400lbs and slicks .

    next time ill try whithout the the arb (drop-links) if its good ill remove it for less wheigt...
  22. #22
    400lbs springs --definately don,t need arb as well
    check your corner weights --bet each front corner is only about 550lbs --so at 400lb spring it ain,t going to compress it much
    fit cable tie to damper rod and see how much it moves up wards after a rew laps
  23. #23
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by axsaxoman View Post
    400lbs springs --definately don,t need arb as well
    You do.
  24. #24
    I dont use slicks so dont have the grip and possible roll you may get.

    Happy so far cadwell and donny in wet, blyton in dry.
  25. #25
    Even on ACB10's the car felt awful with no ARB...
  26. #26
    An ARB is the easiest way to differentiate between pitch and roll control.
  27. #27
    A certain well known 205 does not run any ARB's at all. Its all in the geometry!
  28. #28
    anti squat
  29. #29
    As previously mentioned by me helper springs can effect how it feel running no arb

    Running a short damper and a main spring only will feel better without an arb as the car cant lift off the helper

    I run no arb on my vtr daily (due to lows) and allthough i dont abuse it it seems fine at 190lb

    My gti has one to keep the helpers in check
    Tempted to try a base model setup recently though
  30. #30
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by AlexB View Post
    As previously mentioned by me helper springs can effect how it feel running no arb

    Running a short damper and a main spring only will feel better without an arb as the car cant lift off the helper

    I run no arb on my vtr daily (due to lows) and allthough i dont abuse it it seems fine at 190lb

    My gti has one to keep the helpers in check
    Tempted to try a base model setup recently though
    I've also been temped to try a different ARB.

    What about one off a vtr? 19mm right?
  31. #31
    I have an 18mm arb I plan to use this year going to do some testing between standrd vts one, 18mm one and no arb. I am using a 4 inch main spring (325 lbs) with a 4 inch tender spring (110 lbs)this year also.

    Also I am going to be using a bigger rear arb too see what that does vs my old one. Hoping I get a better balance front to rear.