Welded diff??

  1. #1
    Hello folks I know this isn't the smartest way to get optimum traction on a tarmac circuit, but has anyone ever done this and drove a track car with a welded diff before?
    The reason I'm putting this Question out there is, I simply need a diff for my VTS and don't have the kind of cash they are worth...dam diff prices!!
    A couple of good mates of mine had done this to there stock car and described it as mental and "christ you need to hang on" due to zero slip lol.
    Has any of the track boys done this? How does it handle? Does it damage shafts or the box?

    Cheers
  2. #2
    you can't do it with FWD, it wont go round corners.
  3. #3
    I've got a welder on mine, but it's rwd. Gets the back end out easier, not that i need it really! But yeah as said, wont work on a fwd car
  4. #4
    Get a steering wheel off a double decker bus and you'll be ok.
  5. #5
    Not a good idea. A few guys have done it for drag racing but they only go strait. On the track it will tend to make you car just want to not turn in and go strait on or on the other hang it may more crab depending on how your weights are sitting. Could even end up with a odd mix of the two. It will also tend to eat rubber.
  6. #6
    Save up and buy a proper plate differential. You will not regret it.
    1 user thanked this post:
  7. #7
    If your feeling flush i might have some trick gearboxes for sale soon.
  8. #8
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Dave_P View Post
    If your feeling flush i might have some trick gearboxes for sale soon.


    Tell me more!

    Also i have seen fixed diffs for classic minis on ebay quite cheap. I can see it placing a lot of stress on drivetrain.
  9. #9
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by sexy_gt View Post
    Tell me more!.
    My Gripper MA dog box (3.9FD) with Gripper plate LSD & MA Quaife homologated syncro box (3.7FD) & quaife diff.
  10. #10
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Dave_P View Post
    My Gripper MA dog box (3.9FD) with Gripper plate LSD & MA Quaife homologated syncro box (3.7FD) & quaife diff.
    gripper/3.9 fd whats that top out at 50 profile 15" rim 7,200 rpm?
  11. #11
    103mph. You need more revs man, it'll do 126mph on my car.

    The Quaife would give you 108mph, go to 8k rpm and you get 120mph.
  12. #12
    ^^ not right for my car
  13. #13
    Err... nope!

    You'd need a diesel FD with the ratios of these boxes to suit your low revving car.
  14. #14
    Welded diff y0 do it and report back. If it's shit, just buy a proper diff. You never know, you could be making something the big companies never though of.....
  15. #15
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by VTStrackattack View Post
    Hello folks I know this isn't the smartest way to get optimum traction on a tarmac circuit, but has anyone ever done this and drove a track car with a welded diff before?
    The reason I'm putting this Question out there is, I simply need a diff for my VTS and don't have the kind of cash they are worth...dam diff prices!!
    A couple of good mates of mine had done this to there stock car and described it as mental and "christ you need to hang on" due to zero slip lol.
    Has any of the track boys done this? How does it handle? Does it damage shafts or the box?

    Cheers
    Your mates are lying because on a FWD car you just won't go around corners, and in a RWD car, it makes you loose grip, My BMW Drift Car has a welded diff and if you tried to take that 'round a track without sliding, you'd have to be going pretty slow lol.
  16. #16
    I used to drive my fwd car to pod with a welded diff. It drove like shit, scrubbed round corners and slow speed stuff was a pig.
    I wouldn't even recommend it for straight line stuff now, I shattered a cv joint an it tried putting me into the wall. Even the Americans are ditching drag spools for proper lsd's for this reason.
  17. #17
    As has been previously said. No, to a welded diff on a FWD car. For track use it will be useless. Get your pennies together and get a proper LSD.
  18. #18
    Yeah, my RS has an LSD and that works well, Although you do still get a lot of torque steer.
  19. #19
    yeah, naff Quaife things, get a proper one.
  20. #20
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Bikekid450 View Post
    Yeah, my RS has an LSD and that works well, Although you do still get a lot of torque steer.
    lol thats because the diff is shit in an RS

    Get a decent one in there and it'll transform it.
    1 user thanked this post:
  21. #21
    Ok, so keep the welder away from the diff then lol

    Well if anyone is selling there gearbox or LSD please PM me.

    Cheers for the reply guys.
  22. #22
    would this be good for a gravel or soil rally car?
  23. #23
    Na, I you still need a bit of slip..
    1 user thanked this post:
  24. #24
    plated is the only way
  25. #25
    Plated diffs are defo the way to go, but be aware that they need to be setup (ramp angles) and also they dont have a huge lifespan, the plates wear out over time.. For a track car an ATB would be a good choice, just fit it and forget it..
    1 user thanked this post:
  26. #26
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by MaRiO89 View Post
    Plated diffs are defo the way to go, but be aware that they need to be setup (ramp angles) and also they dont have a huge lifespan, the plates wear out over time.. For a track car an ATB would be a good choice, just fit it and forget it..
    they dont wear they just need a re torque from what i have heard.
  27. #27
    Na, the plates wear.
    2 users thanked this post: ,
  28. #28
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Dave_P View Post
    Na, the plates wear.
    im confused... whats the re torquing about then?
  29. #29
    checking the settings.
  30. #30
    I dont think you re-torque anything, you get new plates and adjust the ramp angles depending on the settings you require. I'm not 100% as we haven't had to rebuild our diff yet in the rally car, just what i have heard over the years..
  31. #31
    I've never heard of this re torquing you speak of...
  32. #32
    Me neither, you just replace the plates once they are worn and adjust the ramp angles to your desired settings.
  33. #33
    im sure i was told something along the lines from my tuner that the diff needs to be re torqued to keep the desired amount of grip/slip...
  34. #34
    inside a plate dif are spring washers --"belville washers",which look like a distorted flat washer --you adjust the number of these or shim then to get the preoad you require when dif is bolted up
    ramp angles can only be changed by changing the ramp plates ,wear occurs on these as do the friction plates so this why you need to check and adjust the preload on a plate dif ,check it by a torque wrench and see at what torque the dif starts to allow slip
    poorly adjusted dif will cause knocks and clunks and snatching as it locks up --not good for grip or life of the dif components
    a corectly adjuted one should not snatch as it starts to work --or make the car zig -zag --adjust to aorund 890-100lbsft for an MA for best traction --the choices of ramp angles alter the way the dif locks --how suddenly it starts to work
  35. #35
    ive raced FWD short circuit oval cars with welded diffs before. you would NEVER get away with it on the road with a fwd car, or any form of circuit racing, you'd be snapping shafts like theres no tomorrow.
    when manouevering around the pits for example you have to keep the wheel as straight as possibly, or the shafts break, if its gravel/dirt, its ok as the inner wheel will just slip, but on tarmac, it just breaks something. only reason you get away with it on short tarmac oval, is the cars are only doing one purpose, both corners are near on the same steering input, and the cars are set up with all this in mind, they are only set up to turn right too.

    they are certainly a handful though, you know when youve done 30 laps in one thats for sure!!

    also they can be quite an experience if one shaft does fail when your still racing.. it goes round like a fly with a wing pulled off lol.

    - colin