Refurbishing front struts

30th December 2012, 23:44

Looking at refurbishing my front struts. Was going to wire brush them clean, sand them down so they are ready for some form of paint. Will smooth black hammerite do the job nicely? Anyone had experience doing this?

Then they'll be ready for some new top mounts, drop links, wheel bearings and a decent set of springs and dampers

30th December 2012, 23:53

Yep that's exactly the way I've done mine. Come out fine

31st December 2012, 00:03

Thanks, just the answer I was looking for. As long as the finish lasts a decent length of time

Cheers Ross

31st December 2012, 00:06

No problem

Should last well - did mine about 5 years ago and redid them again just last month.

31st December 2012, 00:11

4/5 years is plentiful

thanks again

31st December 2012, 00:15

WHORE ALERT!

painted mine recently with smooth hammerite but obviously in yellow for extra poser points

31st December 2012, 00:16

only time you will see those is when the wheels are off though.

My calipers are the same colour yellow but you see them.

My strut is painted black hammerite and all it needs is a wipe down and back to glossy ect.

31st December 2012, 00:16

They look nice to be fair

31st December 2012, 00:19

Quote:

Originally Posted by Prickle

only time you will see those is when the wheels are off though.

My calipers are the same colour but you see them.

My strut is painted black hammerite and all it needs is a wipe down.

Not on your car johnny boy! Arch gap ftw.

31st December 2012, 00:20

They are nice for a track car

Think I'm just going black myself lol

31st December 2012, 00:21

Quote:

Originally Posted by Prickle

only time you will see those is when the wheels are off though.

My calipers are the same colour yellow but you see them.

My strut is painted black hammerite and all it needs is a wipe down and back to glossy ect.

the wheels get swapped a few times on race days

haha my callipers are the traditional red

31st December 2012, 00:21

Can the same smooth hammerite be used to repaint the arches and the underside rear after some preparation too?

31st December 2012, 00:22

Powder coat them. We use to do them at my old work for £20 per strut. Its just better all rust is removed and totally sealed from the elements.

If your stripping them totally mask the bearing seat off totally. Also mask the threads off they are so fine they will fuck up. I found it a good time to weld the spring pan to the strut too.

31st December 2012, 00:23

Quote:

Originally Posted by harry289

Can the same smooth hammerite be used to repaint the arches and the underside rear after some preparation too?

yes just remove and treat any rust then slap it on

but id reccomend that waxyoil? under seal myself

31st December 2012, 00:24

Quote:

Originally Posted by AzzAW93

waxyoil?

awful stuff that.

31st December 2012, 00:25

I don't think the waxoil stuff is good for when I come to wash the underside of my car. My shell is almost totally rust free. Just a couple of surface rust spot. Was going to wire brush, sand down, treat with krust, clean up and put hammerite on

31st December 2012, 00:26

Quote:

Originally Posted by Prickle

awful stuff that.

you think? ive got on really well with it in past experiences

31st December 2012, 00:27

Quote:

Originally Posted by AzzAW93

yes just remove and treat any rust then slap it on

but id reccomend that waxyoil? under seal myself

I wouldn't use any of the above. Wax oil is shite for rust prevention and isn't endorsed by any insurance company any more. Use something like a u-pol gravitex. Its rubber based all you have to do is scotch treat rust areas then paint or spray on.

It seals the rust and is super hard to chip it can be over painted too to match body colour.

31st December 2012, 00:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by AzzAW93

you think? ive got on really well with it in past experiences

i used it on the Micra i had (full underside and archs), correct thickness ect

Had a pour down few days later, the spray just more or less made it pointless. + it makes it impossible to clean the archs because when you wipe you wipe the waxoyl off. had to keep topping it up. every few months because it worn thin.

It looks alright to use for say drain pipes or top of walls to prevent thiefs though.

31st December 2012, 00:30

Might have to look into that! Will be doing all this end of feb/march time

31st December 2012, 00:31

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bedford126

I wouldn't use any of the above. Wax oil is shite for rust prevention and isn't endorsed by any insurance company any more. Use something like a u-pol gravitex. Its rubber based all you have to do is scotch treat rust areas then paint or spray on.

It seals the rust and is super hard to chip it can be over painted too to match body colour.

I second the upol stuff. My arches are done in the stuff then painted body colour. It's a mega hard rubber like stuff and looks great but also looks like it will protect the body very well from stones etc

31st December 2012, 00:31

this stuff?
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/s...egoryId_165594

31st December 2012, 00:32

Quote:

Originally Posted by AzzAW93

this stuff?
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/s...egoryId_165594

yes. its fuckin shit.

31st December 2012, 00:32

Quote:

Originally Posted by AzzAW93

this stuff?
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/s...egoryId_165594

my bad this is what ive used
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/s...egoryId_165594

31st December 2012, 00:38

Quote:

Originally Posted by AzzAW93

my bad this is what ive used
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/s...egoryId_165594

That's just as bad lol. But it is a good match for the texture on the underside of nissan's.

use

gravitex
or
Gravitex aerosol.

Both are the same stuff and both are amazing.

31st December 2012, 00:40

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bedford126

That's just as bad lol. But it is a good match for the texture on the underside of nissan's.

use

gravitex
or
Gravitex aerosol.

Both are the same stuff and both are amazing.

Stuck them on my watch list for future ref. never know..

31st December 2012, 00:42

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bedford126

That's just as bad lol. But it is a good match for the texture on the underside of nissan's.

use

gravitex
or
Gravitex aerosol.

Both are the same stuff and both are amazing.

good for future reference

i only used it to tidy the underside up. theres no rust on the car but after i had the cage welded in. i used that Zink 182 stuff to prevent rust but thought it looked patchy having 6 splodges of grey so i bought a tin to just do the hole underside black so it matched haha

31st December 2012, 00:52

done this a couple of times on various things.
when doing a full resto, powder coating always gets top vote imo, its so much more durable, but when budget wont allow, paint works fine.
for taking the existing paint/rust off i personally have always wire brushed using an angle grinder with a wire brush attachment with the component in the vice. When there is rust i find a drill attachment isnt powerful enough to get all the rust off and a hand held wire brush is useless, the rust just comes back.

when painting, after taking it back to bare metal, paint all the bare metal where pitted from rust with rust treatment stuff, though, this is useless if there is rust still there, i emphasise the importance of getting it all off. Then if you have a compressor, mask off the strut and hand up with some welding wire or similar, 2 coats or red oxide, 1 coat of primer, 3 coats of black gloss. Ive always used cellulose based as thats just whats been in the workshop (about 20 gallons left from the 80s or so) anything will do really, hammerite is good strong stuff but doesnt spray well.

If brushing on, same process really, just ... with a brush.

just from my experience, dont use rattle cans (i know you werent anyway) the finish looks great, but chips off and looks shite within like 1000miles.

not a great picture, but "heres one i did earlier"

31st December 2012, 01:00

Quote:

Originally Posted by m4tt274

when painting, after taking it back to bare metal, paint all the bare metal where pitted from rust with rust treatment stuff, though, this is useless if there is rust still there, i emphasise the importance of getting it all off. Then if you have a compressor, mask off the strut and hand up with some welding (about 20 gallons left from the 80s or so) anything will do really, hammerite is wire or similar, 2 coats or red oxide, 1 coat of primer, 3 coats of black gloss. Ive always used cellulose based as thats just whats been in the workshop good strong stuff but doesnt spray well.

Oh dear.......

Hammerite is possible one of the best and nicest paints you can spray its just not very good.

The paints you used are so old age most places cant and wont supply them because they are illegal also they are soft as shit and really thin hence all the thinners you put in them.

Only way to paint bare metal is with a acid etch primer then base and clear or a 2k solid paint if you can get hold of it. Cellulose was phased out for a reason because its shite.

31st December 2012, 01:10

you chopped my quote a bit, i said hammerite IS strong stuff, i personally have never had a good result spraying it. I will add i wouldn't recommend cellulose, its just what i have used as its whats left in the shop.
Its always worked fine, with a barrier coat and a strong lacquer it holds up more than well enough. the few cars ive done things in cellulose have held up fine, as said, that old ford running gear still looks fresh 12 months later after a wipe.

Hammerite is good with a brush, ive used it a few times, mainly on gates, but im not sure the brush finish will be good enough for harry as i imagine he will want an OEM finish.

edit to add i thought that the cellulose paints were phased out, like lead paints as everyone spraying them starts to die if they forget to wear a mask...
Im sure im wrong, but most of the old boy painters ive spoken to well prefer the old style paints to the modern water based ones.

31st December 2012, 01:17

Quote:

Originally Posted by m4tt274

edit to add i thought that the cellulose paints were phased out, like lead paints as everyone spraying them starts to die if they forget to wear a mask...
Im sure im wrong, but most of the old boy painters ive spoken to well prefer the old style paints to the modern water based ones.

Nope cellulose was phased out because it is 50% thinners and all the voc's kill the earth.

The old boy painters have no clue how to paint the new stuff that's why they think its shit. If they could paint it I wouldn't have a job teaching them how for sikken's. Its like anything with the older generation if its new it must be shit.

And its not water based its water-borne its a solvent that uses water(deionised) to get from the gun to the object.

31st December 2012, 01:21

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bedford126

The old boy painters have no clue how to paint the new stuff that's why they think its shit.

HA thats probably a good point i should take into account :') lol