Cage Fitting

  1. #1
    So, I need to put my devices cage in, for road use it says to use plates on the outside of the car, poke bolts from outside to in, and bolt it in tight as a badger.

    Now I fancy putting their fitting kit in, this is welded to the inside, then the bolts come from the outside again.

    is there any real difference though?

    in my mind the road use option seems better, I know I'll be wrong
  2. #2
    Plates on the outside of the car? Surely no load will be distributed through them if they are on the outside.
  3. #3
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by adamskiTNR View Post
    Plates on the outside of the car? Surely no load will be distributed through them if they are on the outside.
    If I remember right from my car, they mean sandwich the floorpan between the plate bolted to the outside of the car and the plate at the foot of the cage leg.
  4. #4
    Yeah I get that, that makes sense, but the weld in one is on the inside, with no outside spreader plates?!?
  5. #5
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by MuZiZZle View Post
    Yeah I get that, that makes sense, but the weld in one is on the inside, with no outside spreader plates?!?
    do they presume you've already reinforced the area around the leg?
  6. #6
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Ross View Post
    do they presume you've already reinforced the area around the leg?
    I honestly have no idea how presumptious they are? very?
  7. #7
    Could be that the welded version sits on higher turrets so is welded in 3 dimensions rather than 2 on the car flour.
  8. #8
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by AlexFocusST View Post
    Could be that the welded version sits on higher turrets so is welded in 3 dimensions rather than 2 on the car flour.
    Flour as in bread?

    Weld in cages are made totally different mate so weld to different places as well as boxing the mount points In. Personally I have never just bolted a cage in I have always welded a plate under the cage with captive nuts. Spreads the load and makes it easier fitting and removing.
  9. #9
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Bedford126 View Post
    Flour as in bread?

    Weld in cages are made totally different mate so weld to different places as well as boxing the mount points In. Personally I have never just bolted a cage in I have always welded a plate under the cage with captive nuts. Spreads the load and makes it easier fitting and removing.
    this is what I plan to do, just in my mind, plates on the outside sound better
  10. #10
    ha! nope flour as in floor ... my bad.

    Fully welded and going all the way to the front , reinforcing struts
    and welded up at the rear where the rear axle bolts in! that's my roll cage.
  11. #11
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by MuZiZZle View Post
    this is what I plan to do, just in my mind, plates on the outside sound better
    If the plates are fully seam welded and plug welded also to the floor I cant see the problem inside or outside. Personally I would weld them to the inside as the if you crash the plate will physically have to be pushed through the floor.
  12. #12
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Bedford126 View Post
    If the plates are fully seam welded and plug welded also to the floor I cant see the problem inside or outside. Personally I would weld them to the inside as the if you crash the plate will physically have to be pushed through the floor.
    Stupidly I was thinking of them being forced the other way for some strange reason!
  13. #13
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by MuZiZZle View Post
    Stupidly I was thinking of them being forced the other way for some strange reason!
    I always weld to the floor on the inside and drill 4x plug welds then the captive nuts and seam weld into the car and weld up the plugs. Not sure if that's the "correct" way but its the way I was taught by a bloke who use to weld cages into the pro drive Subaru's.
  14. #14
    you sound like you know what you're on about!

    Leeds here I come!
  15. #15
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Joe View Post
    I take it's the 106 version of the safety devices cage? If so as said, everyone I have seen has the plate on the inside with captive nuts on the back
    Nah it's a saxo one
  16. #16
    So I went to do a test fit

    Only the rear 2 feet are flat! Gah!

    Rang devices, they confirmed it needs a jazzy fitment kit with weld in boxy bits for the main hoop legs and the front feet.

    They confirmed its a saxo cage but their old phone number was on it so god knows how old it is!

    Anyway

    Bolted it all up, then found out the seats will have to be fettled with!

    Meh
  17. #17
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Joe View Post
    My saxo one had to have boxes welded in for the front four and just a plate on the wheel arch with captive nuts for the rear two stays, but the front four feet where L shaped to go around the boxing
    Bingo!

    You got any pics of it fitted?
  18. #18
    Cheers dude

    I have the I stall PDF so I kinda know

    What's interesting is it'll be going where my fuel lines are

    Hrmmmmm
  19. #19
    They are exactly what I was expecting!

    I appreciate that dude
    1 user thanked this post:
  20. #20
    When did Stevie Wonder start welding cages?

    Just make sure the correct gauge metal is used and the welds are decent. Mark1311 on here will be able to knock you some up to get welded in.
  21. #21
    i take it the seats dont clear the door bars then? youll have to do what i did and cut down the tranny tunnel and weld in angle iron lengths to mount the seat side mounts
  22. #22
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by deano_123 View Post
    i take it the seats dont clear the door bars then? youll have to do what i did and cut down the tranny tunnel and weld in angle iron lengths to mount the seat side mounts
    Flip that

    I'll just move the seats over on the rails!
  23. #23
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Joe View Post
    Wasn't my cage thank god, but I did think the same when I found the pictures

    And iirc the mounts are usally made of 3mm mild steel, and don't weld the top 90 degree bend, make sure it's bent like it
    SD do a fitment kit so I'm just going to get that to save pissing about
  24. #24
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by MuZiZZle View Post
    Flip that

    I'll just move the seats over on the rails!
    pikey, you have the welder out, do a proper job and get some proper mounts and some eyebolts welded in to
  25. #25
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by deano_123 View Post
    pikey, you have the welder out, do a proper job and get some proper mounts and some eyebolts welded in to
    I have one of those jazzy low frames, then a slider as Matt drives it too and he's a short arse.

    I'm hoping to just weld some rails in, but may need the slider if he's going to drive it still.

    Why did you notch the tunnel? Sheer size of the seats?
  26. #26
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Joe View Post






    hope they help
    Also, how f*cking long are the bolts going to be
  27. #27
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by MuZiZZle View Post
    I have one of those jazzy low frames, then a slider as Matt drives it too and he's a short arse.

    I'm hoping to just weld some rails in, but may need the slider if he's going to drive it still.

    Why did you notch the tunnel? Sheer size of the seats?
    i hadnt realised you and matt were an item now, congrats

    removed it to to get the seats in the best position possible. ran the saxo up the street this afternoon when i was moving cars round in the garage, not entirely happy with the position of the drivers seat, will probably end up redoin the bars and moving them back a couple inches
  28. #28
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Joe View Post
    There's captive nuts of the back of the plates, inside the box
    FML

    Lol
  29. #29
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by deano_123 View Post
    i hadnt realised you and matt were an item now, congrats

    removed it to to get the seats in the best position possible. ran the saxo up the street this afternoon when i was moving cars round in the garage, not entirely happy with the position of the drivers seat, will probably end up redoin the bars and moving them back a couple inches
    You wish I was gay!

    Also, how tall are you? I'm 6'4! I almost couldn't get out of the thing!
  30. #30
    as mentioned, spreader plates are welded to inside under roll cage feet so if you do put it on its roof theres less chance of the feet popping through the floor pan and squashing you

    get rid of the sliders and weld in some rails and use ally base/side mounts.

    save so much wieght!

    the GRP buckets ive just put in my rally car are ridiculously light, with the ally base mounts fitted you can pick one seat up with one hand and hold it about your head lol.
  31. #31
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by MuZiZZle View Post
    You wish I was gay!

    Also, how tall are you? I'm 6'4! I almost couldn't get out of the thing!
    im 5 foot 7, im built for a saxo