Help radius arm

14th April 2013, 19:17

I'm removing the rear NS radius arm from my VTR, I have stipped ll the bits and bobs off.. calliper hanging, ARB plate removed,funny little washer from the torsion bar so all I have is the torsion bar holding on.
Is there a puller or something I can buy/borrow from my local garage.
Any advise PLEASE

14th April 2013, 19:29

It's rare to find anyone selling the puller, i usually end up needing a replacement after a year, only cost me £18 each to have them made. Takes weeks though.

However, if you're removing the arm for a rebuild then just drive the bars out the wrong way. Remove the washers on the other end. Put then in the correct way to the correct height. which you should measure before removing the bars/arms and ideally with beam still on car.

14th April 2013, 19:57

Right...So I will see if I can borrow a puller from my local friendly garage (he owes me a favour) I measured the arm distance after I removed the lower shocker bolt but before I removed the ARB cover, 8" from top of arm to lip on inner arch.
If I can get a puller can't I just pull the arm off of the torsion bar, it looks like the torsion bar is located on the arm in one place, sorry for not understanding, but why do I need to remove the other side.
I have given the joint a good squirt of WD40 so hopefully this will help

At least it's stopped raining

14th April 2013, 21:39

Mine was a c**t. Puller did nothing, better off unbolting torsion bar from offside, getting a big drift and wacking the sh*t out of the torsion bar until it moves as 99% theyre seized in. Plenty of wd40 and a big hammer. Job done. Make sure u clean and grease everything when putting back in

14th April 2013, 22:09

why are you removing the radius arm by the way? not to lower it hopefully?

14th April 2013, 22:27

Quote:

Originally Posted by D4NNY-801

Mine was a c**t. Puller did nothing, better off unbolting torsion bar from offside, getting a big drift and wacking the sh*t out of the torsion bar until it moves as 99% theyre seized in. Plenty of wd40 and a big hammer. Job done. Make sure u clean and grease everything when putting back in

Cheers for the info, I will give that a try if the puller don't work.

14th April 2013, 22:29

Quote:

Originally Posted by LSOfreak

why are you removing the radius arm by the way? not to lower it hopefully?

No, It failed the MOT on play in the radius arm, so I hope to remove it and fit a new bush.

14th April 2013, 23:05

I used a sledge hammer and just smashed the hole arm and torsion bar off then sorted it all out on the bench.

14th April 2013, 23:23

Quote:

Originally Posted by firebobby

No, It failed the MOT on play in the radius arm, so I hope to remove it and fit a new bush.

Its the bearing thats failed.

14th April 2013, 23:44

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cam

Its the bearing thats failed.

Bearings you mean. Inner and outter plus plastic bit in the middle.
Parts are about £40 a side from citroen although if your stub pin is nackered which is quite likely due to water ingress then youll struggle even more.

15th April 2013, 08:05

Thanks for the replies, if or when I get the arm off, I will be able to see what condition the pins in

15th April 2013, 08:58

good quality long 8mm bolt +nut and a spacer so it locates on outside of arm
fit bolt ,tighten nut to pull the bar and if really stuck warm outside of radius arm -- it will come --spray torsion bar a coupe of days before if poss ,both ends, with release agent if you have time so it can soak in
do this with shocker disconnected
and don,t forget to clean splines when its out and grease everthing up on rebuild ,then it won,t be same problem next time

15th April 2013, 11:24

OK, I have now tried heating the arm and bashing with a large club/sledge hammer, no movement.
I soaked it with releasing fluid yesterday and have given it a beating, no movement.
What I have done now is make a bung which fits into the end of the radius arm/torsion bar and then filled the mini reservoir with plus gas, I will let it stand now and try again tomorrow, if it still wont budge, I will try and extract it with an 8mm bolt as axsaxoman has described, but I will be amazed if this works as it's so bloody tight on there and I will be trying to pull the o/s end as well as the n/s end of the torsion bar.
My last resort will be to cut through the arm close to the torsion bar and split it off there, I will need a new arm, but at least it will be off.

Thanks for all the suggestions by the way

15th April 2013, 12:35

Quote:

Originally Posted by firebobby

OK, I have now tried heating the arm and bashing with a large club/sledge hammer, no movement.
I soaked it with releasing fluid yesterday and have given it a beating, no movement.
What I have done now is make a bung which fits into the end of the radius arm/torsion bar and then filled the mini reservoir with plus gas, I will let it stand now and try again tomorrow, if it still wont budge, I will try and extract it with an 8mm bolt as axsaxoman has described, but I will be amazed if this works as it's so bloody tight on there and I will be trying to pull the o/s end as well as the n/s end of the torsion bar.
My last resort will be to cut through the arm close to the torsion bar and split it off there, I will need a new arm, but at least it will be off.

Thanks for all the suggestions by the way

There is a guy on 106oc that'll selling a set of brand new radius arms buddy, he will split as well, but that's obv a last resort,

Mine was really really stuck ended up taking the whole axle off car applying serious heat and using a sledge on the inside of arm

Sent from my saxo using Tapatalk HD

15th April 2013, 19:59

Thanks for the info, I now have a set of pullers and will give them a go in the morning, a mate said he will pop over on the weekend and have a look too.
106 oc, Hmmm I will see if I can find that and ask him, unless you have his details

16th April 2013, 08:28

If you beat the crap out of the end of the torsion bar you may well swell it at the end which will make it even tighter

16th April 2013, 10:11

His email is richw250@hotmail.co.uk
And number is 07532066648 and his name is Richard dude

Sent from my saxo using Tapatalk HD

16th April 2013, 10:33

Quote:

Originally Posted by axsaxoman

If you beat the crap out of the end of the torsion bar you may well swell it at the end which will make it even tighter

Hi, I'm not hitting the end of the torsion bar, just the back of the radius arm, I will give a go with the pullers today...when I wake up fully

16th April 2013, 10:34

Quote:

Originally Posted by 01amatti

His email is richw250@hotmail.co.uk
And number is 07532066648 and his name is Richard dude

Sent from my saxo using Tapatalk HD

Many thanks, I will have a look..hope I can get my radius arm off and reuse that though.

16th April 2013, 11:34

Not a viable idea to do on your drive. Has anyone ever completely removed the axle then prepared it using elecronosis then just tape it apart once all the rust was gone?

Wouldn't be to hard just a bath tub with the correct sollution and a 12v battery charger?

16th April 2013, 12:06

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike1994

Not a viable idea to do on your drive. Has anyone ever completely removed the axle then prepared it using elecronosis then just tape it apart once all the rust was gone?

Wouldn't be to hard just a bath tub with the correct sollution and a 12v battery charger?

The problem you'll have is, the rust is on the splines itself. that's what makes it hard to remove

Water can't get in there for the electrolysis to work.

16th April 2013, 14:23

Oh well, the puller was to big so may wait until my mate can give me a hand this weekend, hopefully with two people knocking the crap out of it, we may get movement.
I checked out those arms on the 106 site, bit to much for me at £100 plus P+P, thanks for the info anyway.

16th April 2013, 17:58

Darn, thought i was a genius

luckily for me my arms only took 10min of sledging per side so im a very happy man !!!

16th April 2013, 18:18

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike1994

Darn, thought i was a genius

luckily for me my arms only took 10min of sledging per side so im a very happy man !!!

So you just bashed the shite out of them, where were you hitting it, I have been bashing above the shock bolt hole and by the torsion bar using a long bar.

16th April 2013, 19:22

Ill put a pic up, this was on my 206 btw, but exactly the same.

Anyone know how to remove the inner stub pin my idea was to grind a V shamed dip into the old one to get chisel grip then get the end of the beam glowing and smash it out?

16th April 2013, 19:23

torsion bar stayed in the arm and came out of the axle, i then smashed it out on the bench once it was glowing !

16th April 2013, 21:50

You need a 20 tonne press to get the pins out, usually.

Good luck if you want to try that though, let us know how you get on

I think it'll break the pin though.

16th April 2013, 22:14

Thanks for the photo, that's about the same place I'm hitting mine.

16th April 2013, 22:57

Is a tricky decision, take the axle off get it good and hot but have nothing to hit against or leave it on and risk burning the car out.

17th April 2013, 00:14

You can always get the arms off on the car. Remove all 4 bolts not just the outer 2, which side is it? pas side usually comes off easier.

17th April 2013, 10:56

It's the N/S, and it's off....with the help of Mr Bosch and Mr Dremel

I cut the fooker off in the end, had to slice along the arm by the torsion bar and then gave it a couple of taps and it then off it came.
The pin looks good, not rusty and no groves or bad scoring so now just need to get a new arm.
Thanks to all who have given advise.

17th April 2013, 11:05

any scoring at all is bad.

17th April 2013, 11:17

I have got to give it a good clean up yet, the marks are more staining than scoring so I will clean up, and refit a new arm with plenty of grease and plenty of copper slip on the torsion bar end

17th April 2013, 21:19

Are VTS and VTR radius arms the same, I have an offer of a VTS arm and can pick it up in the morning.
Thanks in advance

17th April 2013, 21:39

yea all arms are the same

18th April 2013, 12:13

FFS, what a total CunT, all the way to pickup a rear radius arm and the EX pert!! says "Oh, I thought you wanted the arm that attaches the beam to the car", but I said it was the radius arm, the bit the fucking wheel attaches to, PRICK.
Any way, still on the look out for a NSR radius arm for a VTR

18th April 2013, 13:58

Will an ABS arm still fit my non ABS car, is it just a matter of removing the switch or is the arm different.
Thanks in advance

18th April 2013, 16:37

Wouldn't it just be easier to buy a full axle or a reconditioned one? I doubt many people will want to just sell the arm as then the rest of its scrap metal once the arms gone.

18th April 2013, 16:50

I suppose your right, but I have removed the old one now and the pin looks OK, I will see what comes along, still have a couple of people to contact.
Cheers

19th April 2013, 13:31

Hiya guys just wondering if a 2001 VTR radius arm would fit my 2001 saxo desire?

19th April 2013, 18:26

Quote:

Originally Posted by RyRy101

Hiya guys just wondering if a 2001 VTR radius arm would fit my 2001 saxo desire?

Do you have a photo of your desire radius arm

21st April 2013, 19:28

I don't sorry mate, the cars leaning more to one side than the other although they didn't pick it up on the mot when I had a look myself I could see wear on the inside of the tyre so my suspicion is that the radius arm is gone and when I hit speedbumps or potholes in the road the tyre rubs

21st April 2013, 19:50

From what I've read on here, if the tyre is hitting the body, then your axle tube sounds like it's buggered and you will be better fitting another, when did it go for an MOT, if it's that bad, he must have been blind.