Car refuses to start. - ECU needed clearing. Shes a runner. /thread

25th May 2013, 15:44

Relay works. Red switch works. All fuses look fine to me. Changed the pump. No further. Breather pipe under the tank isnt blocked.refuses to tick over. No eml or anything either.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v...type=2&theater

25th May 2013, 15:49

Battery connections on tight?Try unplugging the battery for 1/2 an hr,any lights on on the dash ie immobilser light etc?

25th May 2013, 15:57

Done the old battery thing. Doesnt work. No EML.

25th May 2013, 16:08

Check & clean the earths on the gearbox mate.

25th May 2013, 16:18

Pump prime? You got a multi meter matey?

25th May 2013, 16:21

Pump makes no noises. Neither of them. I even pulled the pipes off to see if any comes out but it doesnt. I do have a multimeter yeah but havent tried it. No idea what im checking with it or what setting to have it on

I wont be able to check till tommorow now as im work tonight. Only had 4hrs sleep for this shift as ive been trying to sort it.

25th May 2013, 16:31

How many volts is your battery reading?

25th May 2013, 16:33

Ok matey, if all fuses are ok run an ohms test on

Pin 32 (iirc) at the chassis plug, it should be the only white one at the chassis plug, its in the bottom row of 3. it goes back to a pin on the main relay iirc thats either 5 or 14, aslomg as you have 0 resistance and the main relay clicks with ignition on then that means engine loom should be fine.

Pop the fuel pump fuses out and ohms test them to be 100%

As mentioned check the gearbox earths too

Might be worth diigging the wire with the chassis plug connected to see if signal is getting to that poimt too that will tell you if its engine or interior related

25th May 2013, 16:34

Wish someone could help me lol...

I'll give it a go tommorow

25th May 2013, 16:35

Im back in the NE but I have no car insured at the min!

25th May 2013, 16:46

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tom5190

Im back in the NE but I have no car insured at the min!

Ahhhh. No worries.

Cheers anyway.

25th May 2013, 16:56

I know it's a daft arse question but, is there fuel in the tank, and when you serviced the car last ween did you put the coil pack connector on fully.

25th May 2013, 16:58

It has half a tank of petrol in it and the coilpack connect is in properly. The metal clip is on too.

I was driving home after dropping ma off to work and it just died on me and now it does what you see in the vid.

I cannot try any other coilpacks, or relays. No scrapyards with any in. Also i have no breakdown cover ( i know ) so atm it looks like its going to be there till the 1st of next month as i'll have breakdown cover then..

25th May 2013, 17:01

You can borrow anything off mine and me if you can get to me somehow.
Actually thatsnnot much help im single plug doh

25th May 2013, 17:02

Where abouts are you?

edit. ok.

25th May 2013, 19:25

Im in Redcar mate, a few things are the same etc if you get stuck drop me a message on here or facebook

25th May 2013, 21:32

Dear Prickle,
My daughters 1999 1.4 8v Saxo, used to " cut-out " and " die " especially when going around roundabouts. It used to be really dangerous for her to use the car when it was playing up like this. It used to just " cut-out " and " die " and sometimes it wouldn,t start again straightaway. I rectified the fault by renewing the crank sensor.
Vince,

26th May 2013, 12:54

I took all connections off down there and cleaned them.

Tapped the orig pump and the motor kicked in. Theres my problem. A bump or something must of caused it.

29th May 2013, 19:01

Right im still having problems with this fucking car

Brand new VDO (oe) fuel pump. Relay works, fuses are all fine.

It will not fire up and run.

29th May 2013, 19:15

ok, so are you or are you not getting 12v to the fuel pump when you try and fire it up?

29th May 2013, 19:19

Quote:

Originally Posted by welshpug

ok, so are you or are you not getting 12v to the fuel pump when you try and fire it up?

Yes i've checked all the wires to the pump with a multimeter. Its getting power. I can hear the pump prime on the 2nd click. I dont have no imob key flashing. Normal lights come on dash before start up. Its been sat for a week Friday because i've tried everything i can. I've cleaned all sensors around there.

It took me to spray some deodrant in the inlet for it to tick over for 3 secs then died.

Wits end with it.

29th May 2013, 19:19

I'd take the rear bench up/out and pop the cover to the pump the. Run a live feed direct to it and see what it does

29th May 2013, 19:20

I've done all that Ghandi. Old pump is dead. It has a brand new pump in there and it works fine.

Sooner it runs the sooner i can get shot with the mood im in with it.

29th May 2013, 19:20

Doesn't sound like the injectors are firing, whip then out the head on the rail and test?

29th May 2013, 19:22

I havent tried that yet. Looks a task

Had the spark plugs out and the ends were a LITTLE wet (fuel) so they must be working? i just hope this wont or hasnt flood the engine trying to start it

29th May 2013, 19:24

crank it over with the coil connected but not bolted down, see if you have spark.

I can;pt seem to find a 3 plug diagram, but if its close enough to single plug then if the pump primes, then the injectors and coils will be getting 12v+, check if they are.

if they do, then its likely to be the crank sensor.

29th May 2013, 19:33

Quote:

Originally Posted by welshpug

crank it over with the coil connected but not bolted down, see if you have spark.

I can;pt seem to find a 3 plug diagram, but if its close enough to single plug then if the pump primes, then the injectors and coils will be getting 12v+, check if they are.

if they do, then its likely to be the crank sensor.

Cheers will try that.

29th May 2013, 23:41

Make tom get a taxi or offer him northern sex to help you out?

29th May 2013, 23:54

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bedford126

Make tom get a taxi or offer him northern sex to help you out?

Lol. I just want it back to grafting the road.

Been told it could be the ECU.

30th May 2013, 00:13

If i was you i would borrow toms coil pack and also his crank sensor and give them a try (beg borrow or steal a lift and take him with you too). Not really common for the ecu to be fucked.

30th May 2013, 00:15

well if you lived even remotley close to me johnG we could of tried bits off mine !

30th May 2013, 00:19

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bedford126

If i was you i would borrow toms coil pack and also his crank sensor and give them a try (beg borrow or steal a lift and take him with you too). Not really common for the ecu to be fucked.

I'll test the coilpack tommorow and if it doesnt work then i'll buy a new one *shudder.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ali123

well if you lived even remotley close to me johnG we could of tried bits off mine !

Is always the same..

But cheers!

30th May 2013, 04:28

This is just another thought but the actual blade connectors on the mk1 and mk2 relays, are these the same length? I'm just thinking where you plug the relay could have moved slightly and if they are different lengths even by 1mm it could make the difference.

As I say probably no chance but I'm trying to think of anything really.

30th May 2013, 04:58

Quote:

Originally Posted by Prickle

Lol. I just want it back to grafting the road.

Been told it could be the ECU.

I still think its the ECU. Just get another. Lol

30th May 2013, 05:27

It wont be the ECU.

Crank sensor, bent pin or even a broken wire on the loom i'd say.

Get someone to wiggle the loom when you crank over.

Just tow it your house.

30th May 2013, 11:46

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mochachino

I still think its the ECU. Just get another. Lol

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cam

It wont be the ECU.

Crank sensor, bent pin or even a broken wire on the loom i'd say.

Get someone to wiggle the loom when you crank over.

Just tow it your house.

What part of the loom?

I cant get it towed home till Saturday.

30th May 2013, 11:54

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mickswan

This is just another thought but the actual blade connectors on the mk1 and mk2 relays, are these the same length? I'm just thinking where you plug the relay could have moved slightly and if they are different lengths even by 1mm it could make the difference.

As I say probably no chance but I'm trying to think of anything really.

Sorry posted on wrong thread.

30th May 2013, 11:55

thing is though, it runs off easy start? sounds like a fuelling issue to me

30th May 2013, 11:57

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gandi699

thing is though, it runs off easy start? sounds like a fuelling issue to me

Well it ran for all of 3 seconds (constant spray) but it wouldnt tick over or even a blip of the throttle it just died.

When its home on Sat it looks like i'll be pulling the injectors rail off and seeing if they all work.

I thought they would be if the ends of the plugs are wet.

30th May 2013, 12:21

confirm they are working first I guess. Have you tried messing with the crank sensor or cleaning it up? Mine caused problems like this before, had to get in there with the WD40

30th May 2013, 12:23

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gandi699

confirm they are working first I guess. Have you tried messing with the crank sensor or cleaning it up? Mine caused problems like this before, had to get in there with the WD40

Ive had the plug off and wd40'd both ends but i've not took the actual sensor off the engine.

I've wd40'd/cleaned every sensor in the engine.

Its like its some kind of wind up

30th May 2013, 12:29

Have you pressed fuel pressure release valve to make sure fuel is pressurising and youve not got an air lock somewhere?

EML comes on with ignition doesnt it?

Have you tried trying to start engine with the pipes off the fuel pump? That rules out wiring/ecu/pump fuse/relay.

30th May 2013, 12:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by outrage_uk

Have you pressed fuel pressure release valve to make sure fuel is pressurising and youve not got an air lock somewhere?

EML comes on with ignition doesnt it?

Have you tried trying to start engine with the pipes off the fuel pump? That rules out wiring/ecu/pump fuse/relay.

Yes i've pressed it. No change.

I know the pump works its brand new and i can hear it prime on 2nd turn. Also i've had a multi meter on all 4 wires going to the pump and they are fine.

Yeah the light comes on with the other normal lights then goes off when the other lights go off.

I would know if it was the ECU and it is not.

30th May 2013, 12:36

Have you plugged it in and looked at the live data?

Tested the coil pack?

Tested the crank sensor?

30th May 2013, 12:45

Quote:

Originally Posted by outrage_uk

Have you plugged it in and looked at the live data?

Tested the coil pack?

Tested the crank sensor?

Not yet no i cant, its not even home yet. I dont have breakdown cover till saturday (new policy)So i will get the recovery bloke to plug the machine on it then.

No to both.

How would i test the crank sensor?

30th May 2013, 13:30

Use a multimeter on the resistance (Ω) setting. Should be something like 700-1000Ω . Then test on AC Volts (~), should be about 300mV to 800mV while the engine is turning over. If these readings are miles out id be looking to replace the sensor.

30th May 2013, 14:01

Engines require 3 things:air, fuel and spark.

Have you done a compression test?

Take off coil pack, leave the plugs firmly in and earth them against the head. Crank the engine and see if the plugs are sparking.

You can do the same with the fuel rail removed but injectors still connected. Crank the engine and you should see them fire.

30th May 2013, 14:10

Quote:

Originally Posted by outrage_uk

Use a multimeter on the resistance (Ω) setting. Should be something like 700-1000Ω . Then test on AC Volts (~), should be about 300mV to 800mV while the engine is turning over. If these readings are miles out id be looking to replace the sensor.

Cheers.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gabbastard

Engines require 3 things:air, fuel and spark.

Have you done a compression test?

Take off coil pack, leave the plugs firmly in and earth them against the head. Crank the engine and see if the plugs are sparking.

You can do the same with the fuel rail removed but injectors still connected. Crank the engine and you should see them fire.

No not done a compression test.

When you say earth them? get some wire and wrap it round the 4 plugs and bolt it to another earth? I have no idea, not good with electrics.. or anything engine wise

Need to take the inlet of to pull the rail out though and that could give me another problem. air leaks

But i'll have to try it..

30th May 2013, 14:27

Just hold the coil pack with plugs attached and press them against the head to earth them. No need to fap about with bits of wire.

30th May 2013, 14:27

When i saw earth them, just angle them so the threads are making contact with the head/cam ladders.

30th May 2013, 18:24

I just flicked first page. Haven't read much but have you tried pushing and bump starting in 2nd whilst flooring it?

30th May 2013, 18:27

Quote:

Originally Posted by piranhamatt

I just flicked first page. Haven't read much but have you tried pushing and bump starting in 2nd whilst flooring it?

I got dad to tow me slowly to see if it would start but it wouldnt.

Only tried it once.. i dont want to try it again.

31st May 2013, 12:12

Quote:

Originally Posted by Prickle

I got dad to tow me slowly to see if it would start but it wouldnt.

Only tried it once.. i dont want to try it again.

is she working yet??????

31st May 2013, 18:34

No she isnt.

She said its a week ish vacation without notice.

31st May 2013, 18:50

Dear Prickle,
Have you tried, testing the crank sensor ? ( like Outrage has described ) and what figures did you get ?
Vince,

31st May 2013, 18:54

is the oil comming from side of the head?

31st May 2013, 18:57

Quote:

Originally Posted by citroensaxo

Dear Prickle,
Have you tried, testing the crank sensor ? ( like Outrage has described ) and what figures did you get ?
Vince,

No mate i can get to the car atm. :/

Quote:

Originally Posted by vtrtommie

is the oil comming from side of the head?

Sorry?

If its leaks you're on about it has no leaks ANYWHERE.

2nd June 2013, 15:51

Tested the coilpack and it works.

What else?

the 4 pipes on the mani do get abit warm so im ruling out injectors, and coilpack.

2nd June 2013, 21:19

Dear Prickle,
It is certainly a strange one
My problem, which is the same as yours ( I don,t know whether it is fuel related or air related or spark related ) This is a problem because you need to be 100% sure you are gettting all of these in sufficiant quantities to get the engine to start properly.
My hunch, at the moment ( for what its worth ) is the fuel pressure regulator. What puzzles me is how the car runs fine ( ish ) if you spray something into the inlet manifold. It,s almost as if the engine isn,t get enough fuel.
On a different point, to do with your engine sensors, I have known these to cause all sorts of problems ( from packing up altogether to just packing up intermitently to causing problems with other sensors etc. ) One thing I have learned is that these sensors can look as if nothing is wrong them and appear to be 100% fine. But it is there inability to keep the thing that they are sensing within the min and the max that has been set by the E.C.U. that causes them to go faulty. No amount of cleaning will solve there problem, renewal is the only option. I have also learned that any of these engine sensors can be faulty without bringing on the e.m.l.
It would be nice to the bottom of it
I hope this helps a bit

Vince,

2nd June 2013, 21:31

if its injecting fuel and sparking it would try and start, tbh i would start looking at the timing.

2nd June 2013, 21:31

If you have fuel spark and air all getting fine i would go with crank sensor

Ive had 2 fail giving no symptoms before they just die and thats that

2nd June 2013, 22:54

you wont have spark with a dead crank sensor.

2nd June 2013, 23:00

Have you tried selling it?

3rd June 2013, 06:37

Quote:

Originally Posted by citroensaxo

Dear Prickle,
It is certainly a strange one
My problem, which is the same as yours ( I don,t know whether it is fuel related or air related or spark related ) This is a problem because you need to be 100% sure you are gettting all of these in sufficiant quantities to get the engine to start properly.
My hunch, at the moment ( for what its worth ) is the fuel pressure regulator. What puzzles me is how the car runs fine ( ish ) if you spray something into the inlet manifold. It,s almost as if the engine isn,t get enough fuel.
On a different point, to do with your engine sensors, I have known these to cause all sorts of problems ( from packing up altogether to just packing up intermitently to causing problems with other sensors etc. ) One thing I have learned is that these sensors can look as if nothing is wrong them and appear to be 100% fine. But it is there inability to keep the thing that they are sensing within the min and the max that has been set by the E.C.U. that causes them to go faulty. No amount of cleaning will solve there problem, renewal is the only option. I have also learned that any of these engine sensors can be faulty without bringing on the e.m.l.
It would be nice to the bottom of it
I hope this helps a bit

Vince,

It ticked over for a couple secs without anything sprayed in though and for the couple secs it did tick over the mani was warm slightly.so im postive all injectors are firing, all spark plugs are working and the coilpack. It just wont constsnt idle. I cant even rev it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cam

if its injecting fuel and sparking it would try and start, tbh i would start looking at the timing.

Why? Cambelt hasnt been touched in my ownership and it is in good condition and im sure it aint adjusted itself

Quote:

Originally Posted by AlexB

If you have fuel spark and air all getting fine i would go with crank sensor

Ive had 2 fail giving no symptoms before they just die and thats that

Im going to buy one today. Failing that someone will have to come out and sort it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by welshpug

you wont have spark with a dead crank sensor.

I dont know mate.. im fighting a losing battle..

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mochachino

Have you tried selling it?

K.

3rd June 2013, 07:22

I feel for you mate, I remember in 99 my Daihatsu Charade had a problem like this and it never really got over it.

3rd June 2013, 07:45

Im all over the crankshaft sensor on this mate!

3rd June 2013, 10:18

A fucked map sensor would also let it turn over but not catch. Iirc - as someone else said- i think you dont get a spark with a dead tdc sensor.

3rd June 2013, 14:54

Your right it doesnt spark i was wrong lol

3rd June 2013, 15:22

I'll have to phone someone up to come out and have a look at it.

Cba anymore

3rd June 2013, 15:25

Rag in the petrol tank and a match ... JOB DONE!

3rd June 2013, 15:26

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brettles1986

Rag in the petrol tank and a match ... JOB DONE!

It could be worse it could be a kalos outside my house.

I'd rather keep my broke vts..

3rd June 2013, 15:29

so whats been replaced or tested?
What does it do if you unplug the map sensor?
I think this is a fuelling issue, just might not be getting enough. I converted a metro to a 1.6 and used the wrong flywheel and that gave issues like this - issues with spark and weird fuelling. It'd run off easy start but crank sensor would make it spark but it also controlled the injectors, and the fuelling and injector timing was messed up even though it was getting fuel.

3rd June 2013, 15:35

Been busy today so didnt get a crank sensor..

Map sensor? is that on the side of the inlet?

Just the fuel pump

Its definatly pushing fuel through ive had the fuel line off and the fpr (i think) out and it gushes out. The coilpack is working, fuses are, relay is. Mani gets warm (4 tubes) a little so it must be firing!? just not ticking over. Im not getting any further ive cleaned everything, literally had every sensor off the car! i've messed with it enough and to be honest i am sick! my starter motor isnt sounding too healthy now either

Only thing now is calling someone out *shudder to plug it on a proper diagnosis to see if its logging any faults

3rd June 2013, 15:38

You changed the temp sensor before all this happend right? Coolent would have dripped straight on to the crank sensor, could of even had a exposed wire they the water got in at corroded.

Prob wont work but have you tried swopped the sensors back other? (Coolent)

The mani pipes will get warm because there is compression there.

Also aswell dont pay noone to plug a code reader in, if your in no rush for the car order a cheap one off ebay then you got it for ever can use it on ma and pa's car to XD

3rd June 2013, 15:42

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cam

You changed the temp sensor before all this happend right? Coolent would have dripped straight on to the crank sensor, could of even had a exposed wire they the water got in at corroded.

Prob wont work but have you tried swopped the sensors back other? (Coolent)

The mani pipes will get warm because there is compression there.

Also aswell dont pay noone to plug a code reader in, if your in no rush for the car order a cheap one off ebay then you got it for ever can use it on ma and pa's car to XD

I dont know where the old sensor is. I've put it down somewhere.

It ran mint with the new sensor anyway and i've tried to start it with it unplugged and its no different.

Yeah coolant dripped everywhere. I took the crank sensor off and it isnt corroded at all, nor is the plug.

I am in a rush for the car. I need it working

3rd June 2013, 15:45

The crank sensor wont be corroded as it plactic its the inside that if coolent get on it eats, have you checked the pins of it.

Also the plug of the crank sensor is pulled pretty tight get someone to wobble the wires and you try start.
If no joy then unplug (wont start or even fire) but see if you get same thing you got now. Then follow on that..

4th June 2013, 13:24

So a guy with a Snap on diagnostics checked my car

2 injectors are knackered, 2 on the battery side.

/thread

4th June 2013, 13:28

Quote:

Originally Posted by Prickle

So a guy with a Snap on diagnostics checked my car

2 injectors are knackered, 2 on the battery side.

/thread

You hope!

4th June 2013, 13:31

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brettles1986

You hope!

Excuse me?

Your negativity on everthing is getting boring quick dude.

4th June 2013, 13:35

so injector 1+2?

4th June 2013, 13:36

Quote:

Originally Posted by greyjasper51

so injector 1+2?

yeah dude

4th June 2013, 13:54

thought you said all the plugs were coated in fuel? if the injectors were fucked how did that happen?

4th June 2013, 13:59

Quote:

Originally Posted by Prickle

Excuse me?

Your negativity on everthing is getting boring quick dude.

I was merely stating that those diagnostic thingamybobies can be a bit vague.

Chill dude

4th June 2013, 14:02

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gandi699

thought you said all the plugs were coated in fuel? if the injectors were fucked how did that happen?

They wernt coated just a tad wet. but thats whats came up on his Snap On machine. "cylinder 1, 2" only 2 faults thats logged onto my ECU.

I have no idea how 2 injectors randomly fail. They're on 85.5k atm?! what is the age/milage span of injectors?

4th June 2013, 14:03

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brettles1986

I was merely stating that those diagnostic thingamybobies can be a bit vague.

Chill dude

Yeah cheapo ones. This didnt have a cheapo machine on it lol.

Im chilled now i know the fault.

4th June 2013, 18:09

more likely to be the wiring.

4th June 2013, 18:10

See if the fault follows the injectors by moving them around to different cylinders

4th June 2013, 18:17

Quote:

Originally Posted by welshpug

more likely to be the wiring.

yeah?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gandi699

See if the fault follows the injectors by moving them around to different cylinders

I dont really to crank it over anymore lol.

I best get outside and pull the top of the inlet off

4th June 2013, 18:35

I had to pull my inlet off today the left rear bolt is a fucker.

4th June 2013, 18:38

I tried earlier Cam. I was sat on the cam covers trying but i gave up lol...

It needs to come off anyway so i'll have keep trying

4th June 2013, 18:39

Dear Prickle,
I am really glad you managed to get to the bottom of it

I know when I had a problem with my daughters Saxo, when it was only running on 3 cylinders ( which turned out to be 2 of those tiny little metal clip things that hold the wiring plug connector to the injector were missing ) I got the price of some new injectors, and thought then how much

So now if something is playing up on her car, I always leave thinking of the injectors until last, because they are a tad dear aren,t they.
It is very unsual for them to fail like this.
But well done, great proffesionalim and patience

Vince,

4th June 2013, 18:46

Quote:

Originally Posted by citroensaxo

Dear Prickle,
I am really glad you managed to get to the bottom of it

I know when I had a problem with my daughters Saxo, when it was only running on 3 cylinders ( which turned out to be 2 of those tiny little metal clip things that hold the wiring plug connector to the injector were missing ) I got the price of some new injectors, and thought then how much

So now if something is playing up on her car, I always leave thinking of the injectors until last, because they are a tad dear aren,t they.
It is very unsual for them to fail like this.
But well done, great proffesionalim and patience

Vince,

Me too Vince its been a nightmare.

miss driving the tramp.

I wanted to sort the problem out myself but i should of really phoned up someone to come out the day after it brokedown and it would of been fixed by now.

Im going to test the loom with my multimeter first and if that works then look at replacing them 2 injectors. A couple of people have said its odd for 2 to fail at once.

5th June 2013, 01:00

Abit strange this but when i fitted my stainless mani in October. I noticed that 2 pipes were much purple then the other 2 and ironically its the 2 injectors that have "failed" i didnt think of anything at the time. Could it be related?? and also my terrible fuel ecomomy recently?

5th June 2013, 07:53

Yup, basically those two have been running lean for ages.

10th June 2013, 15:32

Well i've changed them 2 and im no further with the problem. Had the rail out and the injectors are spraying nicely yet it wont tick over.

No idea what to do now.

10th June 2013, 15:50

Quote:

Originally Posted by Prickle

Well i've changed them 2 and im no further with the problem. Had the rail out and the injectors are spraying nicely yet it wont tick over.

No idea what to do now.

Run the whole rail with the injectors out into four seperate containers (think small glasses etc) and measure if they're putting out the same amount. If they're not, possible rail harness wiring/ECU issue.

10th June 2013, 15:53

Ive just put it all back lol. Looking a the spray they all spray the same.

Starter motor sounds nice now aswell.

ECU/injector loom lol.

I cannot be arsed with it anymore. If i didnt have the parts i did have on it i would of rolled it down the street last week into that wall.

10th June 2013, 15:56

How can they all be spraying and coilpack sparking but not do nothing lol

10th June 2013, 15:57

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cam

How can they all be spraying and coilpack sparking but not do nothing lol

I checked to see if they were spraying...

10th June 2013, 15:59

Sounds like you need to take it to a garage tbh

10th June 2013, 16:02

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cam

Sounds like you need to take it to a garage tbh

That's how he got the faulty injector diagnosis though I think.

10th June 2013, 16:04

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brettles1986

That's how he got the faulty injector diagnosis though I think.

Well genius got a better idea?

His cleary stuck and its needs professional to play with it.

10th June 2013, 16:05

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cam

Well genius got a better idea?

I wasn't being facetious, was merely stating that's how he had that diagnosis last time, you really need calm down a little. Different garage maybe.

10th June 2013, 17:06

ECU m8

10th June 2013, 17:07

locked?

10th June 2013, 17:08

Wouldnt spark if it was locked & the immo light would be flashing when you crack over.

10th June 2013, 17:59

ECUs fked itself

10th June 2013, 18:02

Unlock your ECU send it to me a i'll test it for you..

Saves you forking out.

10th June 2013, 18:02

As said on fb,if you've got good fuel and spark, the only thing left is belt jumped a tooth or ecu has lost it's marbles mate

10th June 2013, 18:04

Maybe your car is too high? :/

10th June 2013, 18:05

Quote:

Originally Posted by MartinObviously

Maybe your car is too high? :/

Or maybe your 6 months to late?

10th June 2013, 18:09

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cam

Or maybe you're 6 months to late?

The higher your car is from the ground, the less air pressure there is so the fuel doesn't ignite as well.

11th June 2013, 06:29

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cam

Unlock your ECU send it to me a i'll test it for you..

Saves you forking out.

Imob is plugged in. Not a chance im unplugging it with no running engine

Quote:

Originally Posted by blackie_2k5

As said on fb,if you've got good fuel and spark, the only thing left is belt jumped a tooth or ecu has lost it's marbles mate

I think id know about a jumped tooth and the belt isnt old.

Another with ecu...

Quote:

Originally Posted by MartinObviously

Maybe your car is too high? :/

Thank you now move along..

11th June 2013, 11:51

She runs, back to grafting.

/thread

11th June 2013, 11:53

Quote:

Originally Posted by Prickle

She runs, back to grafting.

/thread

What was wrong after?

11th June 2013, 12:01

ECU needed clearing as it had the 2 injector faults logged on and even though i changed them the ECU still had it down as them 2 as knackered. Cleared it and it fired up straight away.. as if it was only started up yday. Ticks over good. No missfires. No codes brought back up.

Happy days.

Thanks for the help though guys.

11th June 2013, 12:07

Good news

But going back to the other post, do tell me how you'd know if the belt had jumped a tooth without checking

11th June 2013, 12:08

Nice one mate,glad you got it sorted.

11th June 2013, 12:09

Quote:

Originally Posted by blackie_2k5

Good news

But going back to the other post, do tell me how you'd know if the belt had jumped a tooth without checking

I can see through plastic.

I dont know i was actually going to check today. I unbolted the cat aswell now i have to bolt that back on ¬¬

11th June 2013, 12:17

Lol yeah

Least it's going, noon with other reader could have cleared code though

11th June 2013, 12:28

He could have yeah. :/ Nevermind.

2 weeks, 2 days later i can finally drive.

11th June 2013, 12:31

Quote:

Originally Posted by Prickle

He could have yeah. :/ Nevermind.

2 weeks, 2 days later i can finally drive.

No no no.

2 weeks, 2 days later the car is running.

You'll never be able to drive.

11th June 2013, 13:09

ha ha.