Rear camber, How did this guy do it ??

  1. #1
    http://106owners.co.uk/forums/showth...For-sale/page3

    If you havnt already seen iv purchased some wheels that are rather on the large side and i'm wanting to do this!

    Iv already thought about cutting and re welding the trailing arm but it sounds pikey but if needs must!, iv also thought about heating and bending the stub axles and putting a small wedge machined so the brakes match the bend in the stub but it all sounds rather pikey

    Also looking at the possibilities of having larger stretches and 10mm removed from the hub mounting point on the back of the wheel as there the wrong offset and there's some meet to play with

  2. #2
    ive heard all kind of ways

    most involve heating and bending something from the main beam tube to the arms ect

    never seen any actually in person
  3. #3
    You can heat and bend the trailing arms, or machine out the stub axle hole for a custom stub axle with angle machined in. Skip Brown used a smaller stub axle with an angle plate on the 205's
  4. #4
    Was curious about this too.
    After some googling I found 205 owners used ZX trailing arms, not sure if they would fit a Saxo beam or not.
  5. #5
    Zx trailing arms this sounds interesting ? Are they already bent then ?
  6. #6
    zx arms wont fit
    the 205/306/zx ect run a different setup of rear beam
  7. #7
    buy a shagged beam and only look at it from the side thats got camber.
  8. #8
    Im sure you can buy camber arms... Bloke at work used to run a 205 (before buying a c2) ad he had camber on his, sure he said you can buy cambered arms...
  9. #9
    there was a guy with a black saxo on here who did it weren't there?
  10. #10
    I bet the caster angles are fun when driving and trailing arm is actually working not just stationary when parked !
  11. #11
    Form over function in this case though isn't it
  12. #12
    Cut the arm in half and remove about 20mm of metal then weld plates to each end. One plate with elongated holes and one with just normal holes. Might work but not sure if the welds would be good enought on the cast arm/bolts not being strong enough.
  13. #13
    I know the person whos car that is he's still breaking it now I had the door of it a couple weeks back

    anyway it was a cut and weld jobbie
  14. #14
    Where the hub attaches to the trailing arm could a machined plate not be put in place in this sorta shape /|

    what i mean is split between the two arrows and insert a angled plate thats thicker at one end than the other

  15. #15
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by andyyy View Post
    Where the hub attaches to the trailing arm could a machined plate not be put in place in this sorta shape /|

    what i mean is split between the two arrows and insert a angled plate thats thicker at one end than the other

    Thats another option, I havnt fiddled with a saxo beam for some years i can only remember a freind bending a stub giving him possative camber lol we nocked it out turned it round for a laugh, But am i right in thinking that the piece your onn about is held on with 4 bolts ? because i think that will work! i get waht you mean construct a wedge shaped plate and then even out the other side that the bolts go into ?
  16. #16
    camber shims as described in that picture wont work
    youll just camber the brake caliper and not the wheel
  17. #17
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by AlexB View Post
    camber shims as described in that picture wont work
    youll just camber the brake caliper and not the wheel
    your right i see why from this cant see anywhere else to shim it from so only option are as said i believe or get a new arm made up if you did you might be able to sell them


  18. #18
    i know how guy did his as i was going to do it and its quite simple but as me and him discussed we dont think its safe due to the size of the plate you need to construct.

    Id buy smaller dishes or make wider arches imo

    you can buy camber adjustable stub pins also!
  19. #19
    his seemed pretty safe???
  20. #20
    i think more looking into other trailing arms as anything else is just going to be a bodge imho

    cutting a welding being bottom of the things i ever want to do to a cars suspension system

    heating and bending would be better as non of the original metal is lost but it may become soft or brittle from the process so id stay away from that too

    guy told me he didnt want to sell the rear beam because he was worried wether it was safe to be fair

    second line of what kam racing said sounds best to me ...
  21. #21
    i dont realy know if this will make camber..

    http://www.tricompetition.com/media/.../u/fusee_3.jpg
  22. #22
    Iv had an idea im going to try it and let you know how i get on! works well in theory gunna get on cad now and design the adaptor plate!
  23. #23
    why would you want loads of rear camber anyway
    all front wheel drive cars the front looses grip before the rear anyway and you can alter that by adjusting rear height ,tyre pressures and arb rate
  24. #24
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by axsaxoman View Post
    why would you want loads of rear camber anyway
    all front wheel drive cars the front looses grip before the rear anyway and you can alter that by adjusting rear height ,tyre pressures and arb rate
    Because it looks.. "cool"?
  25. #25
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by axsaxoman View Post
    why would you want loads of rear camber anyway
    all front wheel drive cars the front looses grip before the rear anyway and you can alter that by adjusting rear height ,tyre pressures and arb rate
    as said, purely for looks. Its hardly a performance car anyway. OP wants to angle the wheels so he can go lower on big/wide wheels
  26. #26
    Ask guy, thats why he took the plates off his beam and put it back to standard.

    Only way id do it is same as the tri competition ones i cant remember the site or out though!
  27. #27
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by axsaxoman View Post
    why would you want loads of rear camber anyway
    all front wheel drive cars the front looses grip before the rear anyway and you can alter that by adjusting rear height ,tyre pressures and arb rate
    As said purely for looks as i have 9j rear wheels the same can be said for all the impracticle dubs but no doubt half of you think they look good, im not following any croud with my car! just doing the stuff i want to do where possible
  28. #28
    The guy who owned my saxo before did this.

    His dad modified the trailing arms by recutting the angle of the holes, i believe.
    Not sure on the specifics.

    I'd be interested if anyone knows someone that sells modified rear beams, as mine has just gone and needs replacing.
  29. #29
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by LSOfreak View Post
    as said, purely for looks. Its hardly a performance car anyway. OP wants to angle the wheels so he can go lower on big/wide wheels
    putting more rear camber will not allow bigger wheels as the top of the wheel will be closer to the inner arch than if it had no camber,same goes for lowering --you willstill need to cut out rear bumper brackets and modify archs if you go bigger +wider wheels = tyres
  30. #30
    It'll bring the tyre under the arch though so it can go lower. Thats room at the inside arch at the moment i imagine!

    I went to 8.5 with no modifications just correct offset and tyre sizing
  31. #31
    anything bigger than 7" rims with correct ET15/18 offset and 195 x 45 x 15 will be close to inner arch at std camber --and thats on a vtr/vts with archs.
  32. #32
    I dont no qhoa car your talking about but I would like camber for the look its my car im after camber thats the question I asked not reasons not to go for it lol
  33. #33