Bubbling water noise on start up??

  1. #1
    Hey guys!

    Just got into my car started it up and sounded like water sloshin and bubbling near the dash lol random as it sounds i know guys!
  2. #2
    Yep you have an air lock,so the cooling system needs bleeding mate.
  3. #3
    Thanks mate, is it ok to still drive the car like it yeah bro?
  4. #4
    It is in the short term but the airlock will only get worse,so get it sorted asap.
  5. #5
    usually happens when the matrix is on its way out.
  6. #6
    So its an air-lock or heater matrix? Sorry guys im no good with cars haha. Appreciate the help though
  7. #7
    Its an air lock in the heater matrix mate.
    1 user thanked this post:
  8. #8
    Is your power steering ok?
  9. #9
    Yeah the power steering is fine mate
  10. #10
    yeah, air lock in the matrix, because its leaking water out...
  11. #11
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by welshpug View Post
    yeah, air lock in the matrix, because its leaking water out...
    Is it using water?
  12. #12
    No mate water level is normal..
  13. #13
    Sounds like it just needs bleeding - mine was the same, but fine now.

    If you have a Haynes it's well described in there - if not post a reply and i'll put up a guide.
    1 user thanked this post:
  14. #14
    I've not got a Haynes Manuel bro, and a guide mate that would be brill thanks sunshine see this is what makes saxperience what it is when everyone helps everyone out. Cheers
  15. #15
    Due to the saxo having a TU Engine i presume its the same as a 206

    take the bottom hose of your radiator and allow coolant to drain

    remove your air box remove the bleed screw on the water housing little brass Alan key screw

    remove the bleed screw on the pipe going into the car(cabin) behind it

    fill your coolant up until coolant comes freely out of the bleed screws

    once it does do them back up. do not do the brass one up tight they snap so easily and will leak like mad. idle the car until it gets to normal operating temperature and the fan kicks in

    take for a test drive and top up coolant to max when you get back
  16. #16
    Ok. Here goes:

    Make sure parked on level ground and coolant is cold.

    Do NOT Start the engine

    Remove expansion tank filler cap.

    Open all bleeds screws -
    1) top of thermostat housing near engine lift eye
    2) top right of radiator (viewed from in front of car)
    3) top of heater hose at back left of engine bay (looks like a tyre dust cap again viewed from front)

    Make a header tank by cutting the bottom of an empty 4pint milk container, remove the screwcap and fit upside down into the expansion tank. Seal the joint with duct tape.

    Fill the header tank with coolant and watch the bleed screws.
    As soon as coolant with no air bubbles comes out of the lowest screw, tighten it and do the same for the other two.

    The order should be radiator screw, then thermostat housing screw and finally heater hose screw.

    When all screws are tightened, make sure header tank has about 0.5 litre of coolant in it.

    Now, Start the engine


    Run at fast idle, just under 2000 rpm and keep an eye on coolant in header tank. You will see air bubbling through and you need to keep topping it up.
    Don't fill it too high because as the thermostat opens you will get a big rise in coolant level which will settle down again.

    Keep the fast idle running until the radiator fan has cut in and out three times.

    Switch off engine.

    You now need to remove the header tank without scalding yourself.

    The safest way is to get hold of a turkey baster and use that to suck the coolant out of the header tank and into another container. Then you can untape the header tank and remove it without scalding coolant going everywhere.

    Check the level on the expansion tank and adjust as required, refit the filler cap and you're all done.
  17. #17
    Cheers bro i'll get on this over the next few days. Cheers for ur time