Some help with rusting

20th November 2013, 16:25

Hi guys, just trying to patch the old saxo up for MOT, looking at the refusal its got quite a bit of rot, i got some pictures but they aren't the best with this camera.

just a shot of the entire car http://prntscr.com/25hkjv

i have repaired one i just was wondering if i did the others in the same way it would pass and if it was going to be satisfactory strength wise as i admit I'm a complete novice welder -

Here's the pics of the drivers side shock mount area which i had a go at

http://prntscr.com/25hj8g

http://prntscr.com/25hk60

http://prntscr.com/25hkec

http://prntscr.com/25hn53

http://prntscr.com/25hn9c

here's under the wheel arches which i haven't attempted yet.

http://prntscr.com/25hlap

http://prntscr.com/25hlgb

Has anyone else repaired anything like this and had success? is she worth saving or should i just not bother, seems a shame because the engine and interior is damn mint! advice would be greatly appreciated!

20th November 2013, 21:46

Both are a piece of piss to repair.
The lower inner wing one will require the carpet to be pulled back and best to get someone on fire duty.
The other one I assume under the ecu/fuse box?
Same easy remove the ecu/fuse box.
Cut the rot out. And weld a new plate onto. For both.
For me 20-18 gague steel for repairs. Will out last the car then.

20th November 2013, 22:12

you make it sound too easy
yeah the other ones below the ecu on drivers side

what do you think MOT testers will say about it? will it be weaker than the original bodywork or similar strength man

also going to be doing lower arms and drop downs so ill have to pull the carpet back anyway, i guess i can do those at the same time, its just good to get someones opinion on it cause a couple of people have just said scrap it and others said it was easy but not knowing much about welding I'm not sure. really i want to keep it as it has some decent points.

21st November 2013, 07:37

Nah man if anything it'll be stronger as you using thicker steel of you use 20-18 gague.
If your worried about strength then you can always weld from both sideds.
Don't 'butt' weld it. Over lap the steel (basically make a plate bigger than the hole).
Also where is has gone through give it a good whack with a hammer around it. As normally it'll
Have gone further than what it were failed on.
Also what number are you using on the welder ? Think on mine I could go up to number 2 and it wouldn't blow holes. Bigger the weld more penetration area stronger weld.
It'd be all trial and error dependant on the steel your welding to.
But yes they are easy just rectangle plates.
Now when your having to make shapes or go round corners or get it in a corner that's where things become difficult.
The welding that is needed is a few hours max to do.
And cause your doing it yourself. Make it completely viable to keep the car on the road. As all
It's costing you is a bit of welding wire. Gas and some time.

21st November 2013, 12:02

cheers for the help man i really appreciate it, ill go and order some steel later today

yeah i figured that id need to over lap it with the one i already had a go at

its not a gas welder its a mig welder btw, as im not the best at it i think ill get a mate to come give me a hand with the bigger parts so i shouldn't really have a problem.

can i hammer bends in that guage of steel easy or what's the best way to go about it if i need to bend it round ? should i be cutting smaller pieces and weld them together at angles or is it best to keep all as one sheet and bend it

how much would this caliber of repair usually cost from a professional ?

21st November 2013, 13:00

I paid a local welder I know about 30 quid to do both the rear arches and under the ECU. He did a rear part of the sill for £40 so its cheap enough

21st November 2013, 13:03

Best to do it in one plate.
Best method is tack then hammer tack again or push with a long stick (I find a hammer works well) then tack and hammer it flat.
It's just all trial and error.
If your not 100% about the plate. Get an old cereal box and cut it up for a template.

21st November 2013, 13:04

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gandi699

I paid a local welder I know about 30 quid to do both the rear arches and under the ECU. He did a rear part of the sill for £40 so its cheap enough

thanks man, if i struggle with it ill consider doing that i paid peanuts for the car so i don't mind spending 3/400 to get it up to scratch anyway

21st November 2013, 13:07

Quote:

Originally Posted by f13sta

Best to do it in one plate.
Best method is tack then hammer tack again or push with a long stick (I find a hammer works well) then tack and hammer it flat.
It's just all trial and error.
If your not 100% about the plate. Get an old cereal box and cut it up for a template.

yeah that's the method i used for the other one then just ground the welds smooth and filled it, i dont think ill fill the ones underneath ill just grind it smooth and under seal it