BE4R Gearbox

  1. #1
    Is it possible to fit a BE4R gearbox to a JPS4 (C2 ) engine??
  2. #2
    My knowledge on BE boxes is limited (I'm unsure if variances of the box don't fit), but I would imagine yes with the correct fitting kit. Mount/Shafts/Linkages/Clutch, Atspeedracing would be able to tell you as they produce a kit, but a number of members on here run BE boxes on both J4 & JP4 blocks.
  3. #3
    Thank you for your reply. I wanted a gearbox with a hydraulic clutch to suite a pedal box I have.
  4. #4
    youll be limited to ratios unless you go aftermarket sets...
  5. #5
    but will it fit ???
  6. #6
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by greyjasper51 View Post
    youll be limited to ratios unless you go aftermarket sets...
    .????
    The bigest advantage of a be4 box is the infinate choice of ratios

    The j4 and jp4 block are the same so be4 fits both engines

    Atspeed do sell a fitting kit, its 4x the price of parts from citroen/peugeot
    2 users thanked this post: ,
  7. #7
    Thank you for the info , due to the fact it was a hydraulic clutch concerned me. The clutch make up is what I want so will look now at looking at getting better ratios for the box.
  8. #8
    I have a list of the parts I used. But I'm not sure if everything's working till the cars in the road Saturday. Don't really wanna be telling you somthing Ives use works and it tunes out to be wrong
  9. #9
    personally I'd spend the £400 on a satchell mounting kit, £300 on a satchshift, then sort the rest myself, the Drive flanges just need some BE ones turning down to fit the later bearing and a small spacer.

    Driveshafts are just a case of shortened 306/xsara/picasso/307 items which isnt difficult to do as they are tubular.

    As Martin said, there are LOTS of variation in the gear ratios you can have from the vast BE parts bin, anything from a 3.59 to a 5.1 final drive can be found in standard boxes with quite a variation of gearing too.

    rather than the MA where you're pretty much fixed to the sport gearset and a small range of factory FD's, 4.5 being the lowest afaik!

    They're also a lot stiffer, easier to work on.
    1 user thanked this post:
  10. #10
    clutch on the BE4 box was used both as a cable and hydraulic, you'd just need to swap the clutch release arm as they are different lengths slightly, and get a standard slave cylinder of course.
  11. #11
    Yu can spend £500 on custom shafts but ive had cut and welded ones for 10years now and run 400lbs/ft and 165mph+ and never had an issue
  12. #12
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by tweeqd View Post
    Yu can spend £500 on custom shafts but ive had cut and welded ones for 10years now and run 400lbs/ft and 165mph+ and never had an issue
    Which shafts do you run??
  13. #13
    Quote:
    personally I'd spend the £400 on a satchell mounting kit, £300 on a satchshift, then sort the rest myself, the Drive flanges just need some BE ones turning down to fit the later bearing and a small spacer.
    Is it possible to have the bearings turned down , more so than the flanges. The reason I say this , by doing the flanges aren't you loosing the strength around the splined area ?
  14. #14
    plenty of people have done it like that without any issues.

    you could go for the satchell front suspension kit which uses the 307 front hub with the larger 82mm bearing and standard BE drive flanges, sort your suspension geometry totally in one go.
    1 user thanked this post:
  15. #15
    Looking at the price of that kit , it wont be a option I will be going with
  16. #16
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Rallynavigator View Post
    Which shafts do you run??
    Picasso hollow ones with a dowel and welded, i made them myself many years ago