Important! : rear drums stuck

  1. #1
    Hi ok made a thread further down but im at stage 1 (getting the drum off) and been on it 3 hrs today and still have not got it off. The current state is it spins freely yet when you pull the front part of the drum towards you it nudges forward to come off slightly then stops as if something is in the way or holding it there. The handbrake is off iv been told that when looking through the wheel studs you will see the hand break shoe adjuster lever which you have to push and that wil free it up to take off. I cant see it at all everything i push is a solid item. Could someone show me on a picture were it is so that tomorrow i can find it and release it to take the drum off.

    Thanks
  2. #2
    Have you removed the nut?

    That's all that's holding it on?if its moving freely then all I can think is you haven't removed the dust cover,unstaked the thingy that covers the nut and removed the nut itself.

    The only time you need to worry about the adjuster is if the shoes are still binding but because you say the drum spins freely then it can't be that.......

    Also if you have removed the nut then try giving it a good tap,use a screwdriver and try levering it ever so slightly all the way round it.
  3. #3
    Thanks for your reply, the dust cap is off in the centre covering the nut. Got the main big 32mm nut off with an impact and pulled the washer off from behind it. All i can see no is the main thread, black bearing and a drum that spins freely but when you pull i towards you it stops like something is in the way.

    This is what i see now:

    http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/a...aunchz/284.jpg

    But you cant pull it off.
  4. #4
    Brute force......

    Can't really tell much from that pic,in fact it looks like its not even on the car.

    If that nut is removed,and its spinning freely then like I said the only thing is a bit of brute force.
  5. #5
    Put the wheel back on the drum with 2 hand tight wheel bolts. Then hit/wiggle the wheel, it gives you more leverage.

    Also, you don't push the adjuster, you ave to flick it. It's probably seized anyway so you won't be able to get at it.
  6. #6
    Sorry your right this pic is a bad example the drum is still on the axle but if you were to look at the drum straight on that's all you see. The drum casing, bolt off, washer behind it off exposing the bearing and when you spin the drum Case it spins freely with a very slight drag but only occasionally. Yet when you pull it towards you it nudges forward a you h. It then stops. So will hit it more with hammer and try to pry it out evenly with a massive thick flathead screwdriver. As long as I now nothing is in its way so that when I pull it it breaks something. Thanks
  7. #7
    Finally got it off shoes are off and drums inside and out all clean but can't loosen the break line nut off its rusted on bad an have rounded two of the edges.
  8. #8
    Wd40, wire brush, wait 15mins, slightly smaller socket for grip. That's all I can think of.
  9. #9
    Good man

    The last time I did drums it was on my mums 1.1 106 before I got it(3yrs ago) and I replaced a cylinder,every nut was rusty and generally a pain in the arse to remove.
  10. #10
    The threads are now rounded off because it was so rusty a d even though I had good grip on it the spanner was just rounding it. Got a mobile mechanic to come and Finnish the job. He said he needs to cut it off and attatch a new bit of pipe and a new union but he said this is quite common. You would think the manufacturer would use metal that doesn't rust easy.
  11. #11
    could make a line yourself if you bought some copper lines, ends and a flaring tool. Its really not difficult.
    Plus you could get the end of the fitting that stuck in the drum off if you cut the pipe off then get a socket on it
  12. #12
    All done now and bleed thanks for all your help people. The mobile mechanic was able to get it off with a bigger set of monkey grips and twisting it back and forth, he was able to reuse it too. However one of the Allen key bots had corroded inside so he couldn't even get the key in. So he had to use a Irwin threaded socket tool to get it off but he was able to reuse it when fitting the new lol.

    So both shoes replaced, both cylinders replaced and brakes bleed for £55.

    I think that was good because i bought the parts that was just labour.
  13. #13
    That's not too bad....I bet you're happy now
  14. #14
    yeah glad to get a car back. but didn't want to spend any money on the car as im trying to sell it once i find an un believably rare Honda civic vti coupe that isn't located in Cardiff nor in Ireland which is were they are located when they pop up online lol
  15. #15
    Dude you should have just brought it to me in the first place I wouldn't of wanted that much to do the job and it would of been done in an hour or so.