More on brakes - retard alert

13th March 2014, 15:46

Right, I need to get this straight in my head. I'm no expert but I'm pretty sure brakes are good things to have, so hear me out...

I have an S1 106 shell that I'm building up.

It will be running a disc rear beam.
It will also be running 266mm brakes up front.

Currently, I have a 1.0 servo and 4 port non-abs master cylinder on the car.

What's the best way of setting this up so it doesn't kill me. As far as I can tell I will want a Wilwood Brake Bias valve.

In my mind, the best way to achieve this is thus:

Switch the 4 port m/c to a 2 port 23mm m/c. Then, run one port to the bulkhead centre. T-piece it, and run one line to each front brake caliper.

Using the remaining port on the m/c, run a line inside the car through the bulkhead. By the drivers seat, fit the wilwood bias valve, then run the line from the bias valve back through the car and drill through by the petrol tank. T-Piece it here again, and run one line to each rear caliper.

Is that right? Or am I missing something?

Will the 1.0 servo and the 23mm m/c work together ok? I have a VTS servo but can I fuckery work out how to seperate it from the pedal box.

14th March 2014, 10:00

You can get a four port 23mm master cylinder makes things easier and safer

14th March 2014, 10:20

Sounds good I had the same set up on my VTS with 283mm calipers at the front, 2 port MC with the front tee'd to each front caliper and the back line with the bias valve in and tee'd to each rear caliper. Worked great, nothing unsafe about running it this way. That's how the Peugeot Sport set up was with the exception they used a 4 port MC with 2 ports blocked and a hydraulic handbrake.

Not sure if the servos are different but if you want to change it the there are 4 bolts underneath at the back and then you can disconnect it from the main bar running across.

14th March 2014, 10:53

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alfie09

You can get a four port 23mm master cylinder makes things easier and safer

Can you explain why that would be? I'd considered this but I can't see how it would be safer or easier, and it would be a mare trying to plumb in a bias valve for the rear if you were running seperate lines to each wheel, unless you ran 2 bias valves, but that seems messy to me.

I'm just wondering if I've got it wrong and there's a benefit to doing it that way that I can't see.

14th March 2014, 10:55

Quote:

Originally Posted by qrty

Sounds good I had the same set up on my VTS with 283mm calipers at the front, 2 port MC with the front tee'd to each front caliper and the back line with the bias valve in and tee'd to each rear caliper. Worked great, nothing unsafe about running it this way. That's how the Peugeot Sport set up was with the exception they used a 4 port MC with 2 ports blocked and a hydraulic handbrake.

Not sure if the servos are different but if you want to change it the there are 4 bolts underneath at the back and then you can disconnect it from the main bar running across.

Fantastic cheers, that's basically how I see it working in my head.

14th March 2014, 14:29

Got two 23mm master cylinders here mate if you need one..
Chris.

14th March 2014, 14:31

Quote:

Originally Posted by chris1357

Got two 23mm master cylinders here mate if you need one..
Chris.

I might do, who knows!

How much honky? x

14th March 2014, 15:25

The way you've described is fine, and is identical (if I read you correctly) to the diagram above. A 2 port, t'd for the front on one output, and run through the car to a bias valve, then t'd on the rear is ideal, simple, and easy to setup

14th March 2014, 15:39

Yes running from a two port is easy to plumb in

But

The advantage of a four port system is that if one hose fails you still have two diagonal brakes working.
It's how a standard road car is plumbed in

14th March 2014, 15:41

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alfie09

Yes running from a two port is easy to plumb in

But

The advantage of a four port system is that if one hose fails you still have two diagonal brakes working.
It's how a standard road car is plumbed in

That's a good point, and one I hadn't considered.

14th March 2014, 16:25

Mine are both 2 ports.. £15 posted.
Chris

28th March 2014, 09:16

Quote:

Originally Posted by qrty

Sounds good I had the same set up on my VTS with 283mm calipers at the front, 2 port MC with the front tee'd to each front caliper and the back line with the bias valve in and tee'd to each rear caliper. Worked great, nothing unsafe about running it this way. That's how the Peugeot Sport set up was with the exception they used a 4 port MC with 2 ports blocked and a hydraulic handbrake.

Not sure if the servos are different but if you want to change it the there are 4 bolts underneath at the back and then you can disconnect it from the main bar running across.

More retardness alert.

I'm now toying with the idea of fitting a hydro handbrake. I can't imagine I'll ever need one bar arsing around in the snow, as I don't intend to do any rallying etc, but they look cool as fuckery and I just fancy lashing one in.

Am I right in thinking that the bias valve wants to be 'in front' of the hydro in the above setup. I'm pretty sure looking at it that item 7 is the bias valve and 8 would be the hydro, that right?

I'm sure it is, but best to double check and all that.

28th March 2014, 09:22

In theory it shouldn't matter which is first. The handbrake wont interfere with the system unless pulled, which it will then obviously put pressure towards the rear.

28th March 2014, 09:25

Quote:

Originally Posted by qrty

In theory it shouldn't matter which is first. The handbrake wont interfere with the system unless pulled, which it will then obviously put pressure towards the rear.

Let's face it, I'm going to plumb all this in, and the hydro will end up locking the front wheels solid on my first test run

28th March 2014, 09:32

Quote:

Originally Posted by D4MJT

Let's face it, I'm going to plumb all this in, and the hydro will end up locking the front wheels solid on my first test run

I could imagine that haha