Changing Driveshafts?

29th April 2014, 10:32

Gonna change my drive shafts this weekend. Recon I'll be ok doing one on Saturday and one on Sunday rather than both in same day? One won't affect the other will it

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29th April 2014, 10:46

Do them the same day. No it wont affect it. Drivers side is bolted in. passenger just pulls out once the strut is moved.

You'll need to get some gearbox oil though.

29th April 2014, 10:47

Ahh yeah otherwise I'd have to drain it twice wouldn't I. Long job you think?

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29th April 2014, 10:54

Shouldn't be too bad dude, have you done it before / know what you're doing?

29th April 2014, 10:58

I haven't and I'm no mechanic but I'm an engineer and pretty good with working stuff out so gonna use the guide on here! Hopefully all goes well

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29th April 2014, 11:05

Should be fine mate. If they've not been done in ages, you'll save yourself some hassle having a set of new drop links ready, chances are the old ones will be fucked and want cut off if they've not been done in years, makes life easier anyway.

Having a ball joint splitter saves a lot of time as well.

29th April 2014, 11:15

Yeah I've got a ball joint separator! How much for some new drop links?

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29th April 2014, 11:18

off the top of my head about £12 each from ECP?

29th April 2014, 11:23

Not a particularly time consuming job but it can be a problem with rusted fittings. Drop links, track rod ends and be fused in with age as can the ball joint pinch bolts. So basically all those out, undo the hub nut - depending on the wheels you have fitted I usually do this when the car is still on the ground with the wheels on but a lot of saxos have wheels without centres so you cant get at the nut in this way and have to do with when jacked up which can be more troublesome as you need to make sure the hub doesnt spin when you undo it.
With this done, lever the ball joints out of the hubs then the the shafts come out apart from the drives side one with its anti torque steering bearing which needs its bolts undoing.
Also when you undo the anti torque steer mount they are special bolts with an L shaped end to secure the bearing into the carrier - make sure you refit these but turn the ends outward before fitting the shaft back in otherwise its got to all come out again as you cant get the bolts in between the large cylinder shaped metal piece on the shaft and the carrier itself.

This probably made no sense yet but it will when you look at the car

29th April 2014, 22:32

Best way to remove the hub nut I found without an airgun/impact wrench is change the front wheel with the spare steel wheel as you can access the hub nut with the spare wheel on the car. Use a cold chisel and hammer to remove the staking on the driveshaft nut. then lower the car put it into reverse and handbrake on and get a big breaker bar and socket to undo it. Some people use a scaffold pole on the end of the breaker bar to add leverage. Not a bad idea as these nuts are torqued to around 250Nm.

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29th April 2014, 22:34

But dont forget to remove the staking on the driveshaft nut first otherwise you'll be there all day.

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30th April 2014, 08:26

I have just replaced CV gaiters on my daughters 2000 Saxo. It would have been less hassle just to replace the drive shafts. When I got a replacement kit it contained a new nut. The old one came off with a 30mm socket. The new nut wouldn't take a 30mm socket. As it was my largest socket I resorted to using a 1 1/4 AF socket. Get your driveshafts from a reliable source and check the nut size when you get them. Bill W