Rear Hub Replacement

16th July 2014, 13:48

Right you sexy bitches, I need to replace a wheel bearing on my car. Until the other day I was going to take it apart, and take the hub and bearing to an indie to get sorted, and refit. Handily though, one of my wheel nuts has stripped the thread from the very same hub, so I'm just going to buy a new hub assembly and lash it on.

Am I correct in thinking that basically, I need to remove all the brake gubbins, then knock that centre cap out of the hub centre, and undo a nut, and it should come off?

Do I need some sort of wizard puller affair or should it just knock off? What about refitting the new one? Does the pin that the nut bolts to need held with a special tool or anything, or does it just stay where it is?

I'm trying to avoid taking it all apart, and finding out I need bits I haven't ordered.

Thank you muchly

Apart from you Brett, you fucking bender

16th July 2014, 14:07

Quote:

Originally Posted by D4MJT

Right you sexy bitches, I need to replace a wheel bearing on my car. Until the other day I was going to take it apart, and take the hub and bearing to an indie to get sorted, and refit. Handily though, one of my wheel nuts has stripped the thread from the very same hub, so I'm just going to buy a new hub assembly and lash it on.

Am I correct in thinking that basically, I need to remove all the brake gubbins, then knock that centre cap out of the hub centre, and undo a nut, and it should come off?

Do I need some sort of wizard puller affair or should it just knock off? What about refitting the new one? Does the pin that the nut bolts to need held with a special tool or anything, or does it just stay where it is?

I'm trying to avoid taking it all apart, and finding out I need bits I haven't ordered.

Thank you muchly

Apart from you Brett, you fucking bender

You will need

(A) 1 match
(B) a litre of petrol in a container

You start by pouring the contents of the container over the roof bonnet and interior of the car (ensure you get a good covering).

Next you need to strike the match (Ensure you do this where there is ample ventilation but very little wind)

Throw into the inside of the car and run (or in your case waddle) to a safe distance.

If all else fails, try and fix something engine related yourself and the above effect will still be acheived.

Fuck you very much.

16th July 2014, 14:16

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brettles1986

You will need

(A) 1 match
(B) a litre of petrol in a container

You start by pouring the contents of the container over the roof bonnet and interior of the car (ensure you get a good covering).

Next you need to strike the match (Ensure you do this where there is ample ventilation but very little wind)

Throw into the inside of the car and run (or in your case waddle) to a safe distance.

If all else fails, try and fix something engine related yourself and the above effect will still be acheived.

Fuck you very much.

This is for a 106 Brett, not a Ford you bender

16th July 2014, 14:19

Quote:

Originally Posted by D4MJT

This is for a 106 Brett, not a Ford you bender

Oh yes, electrical fires are more probable then in your case.

My recommendation is to just leave it on the drive until it decides it wants to cease to exist.

16th July 2014, 14:21

I shall await your "FML my ST TDCi is alight on the drive" thread with the anticipation of a small child the night before christmas.

Stop thinking about the small child, pedo

16th July 2014, 17:10

You'll need a bearing puller to get the old hub and crap off.

Ideally you'll want a bar to go over the top of the pin to tap the new hub on nicely (some however have just pushed on nicely)

rear hub nut nm? Not sure, its pretty tight though, you WILL want to find this out or you'll have massive play and destroy the bearing in the hub, and you'll want to smack the end over like you would in any case for the front.

If you purchase full hub assembly, it should come with everything you need. I seem to remember a retaining clip, however i could be wrong.

16th July 2014, 17:12

Quote:

Originally Posted by bytor

You'll need a bearing puller to get the old hub and crap off.

Ideally you'll want a bar to go over the top of the pin to tap the new hub on nicely (some however have just pushed on nicely)

rear hub nut nm? Not sure, its pretty tight though, you WILL want to find this out or you'll have massive play and destroy the bearing in the hub, and you'll want to smack the end over like you would in any case for the front.

This has gone from

"sweet, this'll be a doddle next weekend"

to

"fucksocks, even if I do it the wheel is going to fall off and I'm going to die"

far faster than I was hoping.

16th July 2014, 17:27

Quote:

Originally Posted by bytor

You'll need a bearing puller to get the old hub and crap off.

Ideally you'll want a bar to go over the top of the pin to tap the new hub on nicely (some however have just pushed on nicely)

rear hub nut nm? Not sure, its pretty tight though, you WILL want to find this out or you'll have massive play and destroy the bearing in the hub, and you'll want to smack the end over like you would in any case for the front.

If you purchase full hub assembly, it should come with everything you need. I seem to remember a retaining clip, however i could be wrong.

Rear hub nut=correct socket & breaker bar.

16th July 2014, 21:40

32mm socket i believe

17th July 2014, 11:48

I didn't know the rear hub nut torque, so I simply used the listen and feel method (this being spinning the wheel with a screw driver to your ear held onto the hub so you can hear when the bearing is running smooth - knocking is to loose and then feeling for play, tiniest amount is perfect) However the bearings started to bed in and I then had to tighten slightly, if you know the torque setting then its an easy job.

Scott

17th July 2014, 17:48

disc or drum?

17th July 2014, 20:27

Quote:

Originally Posted by welshpug

disc or drum?

Disc dude

17th July 2014, 21:59

ahh righto, the bearings aren't available separately on those anyway.

the inner race usually sits tight on the stub pin and will need pulling/drifting or grinding through.

technique to grinding is to lay the disc flat across it but don't go all the way down to the stub pin, and give it a good smack with a cold chisel, they will crack if you get it thin enough and they just slide right off.

place the new bearing on the pin, it shouldn't go all the way easily, use a socket and tap it on, use the nut to pull it on fully and torque it up, not forgetting to stake the nut and fit the grease cap.

14th March 2018, 09:49

i have a bare axle coming, so i needed to get brakes and hub off-
after undoing the large hub nut, the bearings are jammed on, these need to be removed to get to the 4 allen bolts.

I dont have a puller, so much hammering was needed.

If you need to do this, I used a fork (cant think of the name, undoes the wishbone) opposing a hammer.

After a long time and very little movement I aimed a butane torch at the outside of the hub, then straiht at the bearing. I tested the gt86 (wd 40 type stuff) to see if it would catch light first and also had a bucket of water ready so that I could at least panik and spread the oil based fire around.

Anyway, once heated this moved much better. I was reading this thread before doing this job- so when you get stuck here.. the answer is blow torch anger.

14th March 2018, 18:09

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jon_Doe

i have a bare axle coming, so i needed to get brakes and hub off-
after undoing the large hub nut, the bearings are jammed on, these need to be removed to get to the 4 allen bolts.

I dont have a puller, so much hammering was needed.

If you need to do this, I used a fork (cant think of the name, undoes the wishbone) opposing a hammer.

After a long time and very little movement I aimed a butane torch at the outside of the hub, then straiht at the bearing. I tested the gt86 (wd 40 type stuff) to see if it would catch light first and also had a bucket of water ready so that I could at least panik and spread the oil based fire around.

Anyway, once heated this moved much better. I was reading this thread before doing this job- so when you get stuck here.. the answer is blow torch anger.

There's an easier way.

You'll notice the end of the stub pin is dimpled. using a drift if you hammer that with a heavy hammed and knock it out, the casting will simply push off the old bearing nice and evenly. Then you can simply hammer the stub pin back in from the other side once it's off.

P.S Matt smells

15th March 2018, 13:07

Great- I hadnt in fact taken off the rear part of the old bearing, so this was what I did this morning. Using a sledge hammer, hitting from standing behind the car to get the flattest angle on the pin, I carefully hit is as hard as I could.

This worked, leaving easy acess to the 4 allan head bolts which are fixed in with thread locker.

I a leaving the brakes on the car, so hopefully will soon get round to removing the beam soon. New one arrived yesterday- I went to look at IM axles again and they had gone up to 300 from 250 a few days ago!

15th March 2018, 18:20

IM axle quality tends to be hit or miss. I've had 2 and both of them have been absolutely fine, and the 3rd one didn't last very long. Maybe it was a friday when they refurbed that one!

www.oms.scot do refurb ones for £280 delivered next day and 3 years warranty. If you want to save £20 and have an extra years warranty.