really need help... everythings corroded

  1. Infrequent Poster Joined: Sep 2014 Posts: 234
    #1
    Alright folks.

    Ive just been attempting to fit new rear disks and pads (03 saxo vtr) and everything was going well.... until i got to the two bolts which hold the caliper on (19mm maybe?) And theyre corroded to the point where theres nothing for a spanner or socket to grip.. how are you supposed to undo a corroded / completely rounded off bolt?
    Also, whilst i was messing i tried to turn the bleed nipple to see if that was seized, and as soon as i applied any pressure that sheared off completely.. now its just a bolt flush with the caliper. Everything is corroded.

    What do i do??

    Also.. i took the front wheel off to find the rubber boot on the cv joint to ha e come off (but ill post a separate thread later about that so this one stays to the point..)

    Cheers
  2. Newbie Joined: May 2013 Somerset Posts: 24 VTS
    #2
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by mrrwill View Post
    Alright folks.

    Ive just been attempting to fit new rear disks and pads (03 saxo vtr) and everything was going well.... until i got to the two bolts which hold the caliper on (19mm maybe?) And theyre corroded to the point where theres nothing for a spanner or socket to grip.. how are you supposed to undo a corroded / completely rounded off bolt?
    Also, whilst i was messing i tried to turn the bleed nipple to see if that was seized, and as soon as i applied any pressure that sheared off completely.. now its just a bolt flush with the caliper. Everything is corroded.

    What do i do??

    Also.. i took the front wheel off to find the rubber boot on the cv joint to ha e come off (but ill post a separate thread later about that so this one stays to the point..)

    Cheers
    And I thought I was having a bad week!

    Ok, options are:
    1) Remove complete strut and get both caliper bolts and bleed screw drilled out and threads re-tapped by a local engineering firm. Then put back together with new bolts and bleed screw.
    2) Get hold of another complete strut with a caliper and just swap them over.
    3) Drill out and re-tap in place - not for the faint hearted, but can be done.
  3. Infrequent Poster Joined: Sep 2014 Posts: 234
    #3
    Hmmm... i might speak to me dad, being an engineer he should be able to help.. i can believe how seized everything is though.
    Does heat from braking speed up corrosion?
    Cheers
  4. Saxperience Addict Joined: Nov 2006 A farm shed in Aylesbury Posts: 14916 Corolla AE86 Peugeot 205 B18C (in bits)
    #4
    If your dad cannot do it I'd go for option 2
  5. Infrequent Poster Joined: Sep 2014 Posts: 234
    #5
    Price wise what do you think roughly? And are you talking second hand? And without sounding like a wally, ehich bit is the strut? Im in baby shoes with cars and you have probably realised
  6. Newbie Joined: Dec 2014 Posts: 20
    #6
    What he's saying is find a scrappy that has your rear brakes, take the calipers & everything that's damaged on yours, off that car and just do a direct replacement, swap out pads & disks and you should be good to do if you clean the sourced caliper up.

    Calipers can range, I've seen them for as little as 20-30 quid but can be in the hundreds for performance onces, I think OEM are about 50/60 quid each, at a scrapyard you wont be looking at that though, if you're going to replace them though make sure the calipers are the same on both sides of the axel.
  7. Saxperience Addict Joined: Nov 2006 A farm shed in Aylesbury Posts: 14916 Corolla AE86 Peugeot 205 B18C (in bits)
    #7
    I didnt read it correctly. I thought for a minute you were talking about the front. Once the heads are off the caliper bolts they should be relatively easy to get out with the correct tools then swap the caliper over for another.
  8. Infrequent Poster Joined: Sep 2014 Posts: 234
    #8
    I think ive been a bit confused. Ive been googling calipers.. theres two long bolts behind which hold the caliper on to the strut... its not those bolts; its the two bolts which hold the part the pads sit in, to the caliper... if this makes sense? And the bleed nipple is sheered. Gna ask me dad to drill and tap it if he can. Take it you can buy bleed nipples?
  9. Infrequent Poster Joined: Sep 2014 Posts: 234
    #9
    This is a coplete pain in the arse, but at the same time im quite enjoying learning from all this shit
  10. Frequent Poster Joined: Feb 2013 Posts: 579
    #10
    Drilling bleed nipples is a night mare!
    Normaly end up replacing the caliper
  11. Newbie Joined: May 2013 Somerset Posts: 24 VTS
    #11
    Oops sorry - told you I was having a bad week.

    I didn't read it properly either

    On the rears you should be able to drill out the caliper bolts and re-tap the threads quite easily.

    If not then you will need to remove the hub to get the caliper carrier off the rear beam.

    As said you can pick up calipers for around £20.00 so no point drilling and tapping the bleed screw, plus every chance of swarf going into the caliper.
  12. Newbie Joined: May 2013 Somerset Posts: 24 VTS
    #12
    Oops sorry - told you I was having a bad week.

    I didn't read it properly either

    After reading your other post it sounds like you mean the pad carrier bolts - think these are 17mm whereas the caliper bolts are 19mm.

    If it is the pad carrier bolts, you just need to undo the metal brake pipe from the caliper, undo the 2x 19mm caliper bolts, fit new disc, fit replacement 2nd hand caliper, refit brake pipe, fit pads, bleed brakes and job done.

    As said you can pick up calipers for around £20.00 so no point drilling and tapping the bleed screw, plus every chance of swarf going into the caliper.
  13. Infrequent Poster Joined: Sep 2014 Posts: 234
    #13
    Yeah, its the two bolts holding the carrier to the caliper. If i can find away to get them out i will just buy the carrier. Going to leave the rear brakes until then though as i cant bleed the rear left and not even looked at the rear right. As for the front, im going to have a look today. Will i be ok to fit new pads and discs without bleeding, as i dont want to touch the bleed nipples as i suspect they will be buggered too. If its ok to do I'll bleed them once i have figured out what to do about snapped nips.

    Cheers
  14. Frequent Poster Joined: Feb 2013 Posts: 579
    #14
    No need to bleed brakes if your just changing pads and disc
  15. Infrequent Poster Joined: Sep 2014 Posts: 234
    #15
    Sweet cheers
  16. L-plater Joined: Nov 2014 Posts: 68
    #16
    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/IRWIN-5-Pc...item5ae2be3079
  17. Infrequent Poster Joined: Sep 2014 Posts: 234
    #17
    Its just gotten a whole lot worse; i have proved myself to be an incompetent bafoon.
    Got set up, got my locking wheel nut key out, went to pick up my wheel brace and dropped the nut, and in slow motion watched it roll down a grid.

    What do i do now? Somebody up there ^ is having a good laugh at my expense. The nuts on the wheel have a thin tip and 4 small holes where the little prongs on the key would seat.
  18. Saxperience Post Whore Joined: Oct 2007 North-east - Washington Posts: 7311 Clio 182, Fireblade GSX-R 750
    #18
    Jesus. You need to just stop tryin to do stuff with cars and let someone else. You're not cut out for this stuff hahah
  19. Infrequent Poster Joined: Sep 2014 Posts: 234
    #19
    Haha i know, im starting to think that. Im just clumsy. Its verging on embarrassing
  20. Infrequent Poster Joined: Sep 2014 Posts: 234
    #20
    Do those sockets work well? 'Vincent 1' i'm tempted to give them a go
  21. Saxperience Post Whore Joined: Jan 2010 Stourbridge Posts: 7338 Nissan 200sx S14a
    #21
    Can you see the locking wheel nut key in the grid? If so just get a magnet on a stick and go fishing. Failing that, lift it up, get some rope tied around you and get a mate to hold you can go for a wade in there. I've had to do that at 6am when I dropped my house keys after a night out. Was fun.

    Regarding the first issue, (the two bolts holding the caliper to the carrier), try some mole grips on the rounded part. You'll chew up the bolt head some more but at least they'll be out and you won't need to tap new threads.
  22. Infrequent Poster Joined: Sep 2014 Posts: 234
    #22
    Very much doubt it'll be there now, had some proper rain.. decided im just gna bust them off. As for the calipers, theyre such a mess im gna buy a set of new ones all round. May as well. Cheers
  23. L-plater Joined: Dec 2011 Posts: 72 S1 rallye turbo 16v Corsa vxr track car Megane est
    #23
    Get a long magnet on a stick to get your locking wheel nut key.

    Irwin do some damage bolt/nut tools, very good tools. Also when you put the socket on did you just press down 9n the ratchet and not support under the head? Sounds like thats what you have down and with the socket twisting it has knackerd the head of the bolt! Try using a sicket that has a hexagon instead of a starred one, failing that hammer on a size smaller starred socket, properly knock it on and undo but support the head of the ratchet
  24. Infrequent Poster Joined: Sep 2014 Posts: 234
    #24
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by craigyt View Post
    Get a long magnet on a stick to get your locking wheel nut key.

    Irwin do some damage bolt/nut tools, very good tools. Also when you put the socket on did you just press down 9n the ratchet and not support under the head? Sounds like thats what you have down and with the socket twisting it has knackerd the head of the bolt! Try using a sicket that has a hexagon instead of a starred one, failing that hammer on a size smaller starred socket, properly knock it on and undo but support the head of the ratchet
    Yeah i always hold the head of my ratchet to reduce stress and shit, but looking at everything, all the bolts are corroded badly, the calipers are a mess, i suspect the rest of the bleed nipples wull be fucked, so im just gna buy new calipers all round for the hell of it. May as well and then i know theyll be reet.

    I think buying the card from a seaside town might be the reason theyre so rotten, i'm surprised the rest of the car is spotless.

    Cheers
  25. Newbie Joined: Feb 2014 Posts: 22
    #25
    Same thing happened to me. Got a set of Irwin sockets for removing stripped bolts and a breaker bar. Bit of heat and off in seconds
  26. Saxperience Hardcore! Joined: Dec 2007 smurfland. Posts: 17346 Ex saxo owner.
    #26
    On the corroded nut/bolt if there is enough room then with a small flat file,file some flate sides to the bolt of nut.so that it resembles a hexagon again then try with a socket.