Hi. Does anyone know where I could purchase full braided lines for the whole vts brake system
Braided brake line
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#1
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#2I'd have a look on kam racing, http://www.kamracing.co.uk/car-tunin...ake-lines.html
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#3Thanks mate. Will have a look
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#4Checked that out mate that's only the four corner hoses I have those already I want to do the whole car!
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#5Ah, didn't realise you want all replaced.
Braided will be pretty expensive, don't know of anyone who makes a ready to fit kit.
You'll probably need to make your own, http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motors...-pipe-fittings -
#6Okay mate. There was a fella called swampy on here that used to sell the kits a few bought them but his profile says banned is there anyway to contact him
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#7He was banned for selling shit,
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#9He was banned because he could never sell stuff in time I have the full kit your looking for brand new off him but I waited months for it I bought a battery relocation kit off him and never received anything off him. I'll get pictures if the bits and send them to you and we can go from there
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#10Sounds great fella. Yeah send over a pic and see what we can do.Quote:He was banned because he could never sell stuff in time I have the full kit your looking for brand new off him but I waited months for it I bought a battery relocation kit off him and never received anything off him. I'll get pictures if the bits and send them to you and we can go from there
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#11If someone can measure the parts needed I can get custom setup made. We used to sell them but I've long ago lost the measurements.
I can do full stainless setups, multiple colours etc. -
#12Why??
Just run copper inside the car. Much better. -
#14Okay. Well all mine have corroded underneath so have got to do all lines. So thought it would be better to just do this and be done with it!
When you say copper lines do you just mean the standard copper type? Cheers ross -
#15Well Copper line is stiffer than any braided hose so in theory it will give a better pedal feel but it does not look as nice thats for sure.1 user thanked this post:
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#16Okay. Yeah I know what you mean by looks I've seen a few done and it looks really good in the pics! Plus I haven't got to spend about a week doing all the bends I'd have to do on copper lines. Lol
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#17Copper can be done for about £20-30 all in. A full set of braided is going to be £200+. If it takes you under 10 hours to make a set of copper pipes up, you're in credit. (If it takes you more than 10 hours you probably shouldn't be working on a cars braking system...
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I ran fully braided before - I wouldn't again. Totally pointless. Sorry Kev but... it is
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#18Okay yeah I know it's a lot cheaper with copper! But it looks really trick when done. Yeah I only get a couple of hours a night to tinker around that's why would take a week of shouting and swearing! Lol. Ross may I ask why you would never run the again please as you have done it already listening to you as you know why you wouldn't do it again would be the one person that might stop me doing it?. Thanks againQuote:Copper can be done for about £20-30 all in. A full set of braided is going to be £200+. If it takes you under 10 hours to make a set of copper pipes up, you're in credit. (If it takes you more than 10 hours you probably shouldn't be working on a cars braking system...
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I ran fully braided before - I wouldn't again. Totally pointless. Sorry Kev but... it is
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#19It's just a waste of money. Run copper lines under the car and be done with it. IMO of course.
Yes braided look nice running through the car. But are you really doing it because you're a magpie and like shiny things, or are you doing it to replace the lines for the best possible? Copper is better and cheaper. Braided is more expensive and shiny.
You have to choose I'm afraid, not me
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#20Okay Ross thanks for the heads up. Tbh now you've stated your point I do believe I will probably just replace what's already there with copper and delete the abs with t pieces off the main line to each caliper. There's no point me spending loads of money on something that looks nice and doesn't really update or make anything better if you get what I mean. Unless konlaboss offers me his set at a price I just can't turn down.
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#21Save the money on braided hose and use copper pipe, but spend the money you saved on a manual bias valve, decent brake fluid, and some good discs and uprated pads.
Then you'll have a really good, strong brake setup and tbh it'll all probably come cheaper than just the full braided hose kit.
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#22Yeah. I've got 206 gti 180 fronts with encouraged red stuff pads grooved and drilled discs all round, 306 gti6 master cylinder and 5.1 brake fluid! I haven't got a clue about the bias valves?
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#23Quote:Yeah. I've got 206 gti 180 fronts with encouraged red stuff pads grooved and drilled discs all round, 306 gti6 master cylinder and 5.1 brake fluid! I haven't got a clue about the bias valves?
Are you lowered? Do you find the back locks up before the fronts?
But yes, copper brake pipes, if possible run them inside the car but depends if you use the car daily, in which case, might be just as well putting them underneath so they don't get damaged
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#24Dagley talks sense.
Sometimes. -
#26Yeah I Spose tbh the back locks up 1st. I'm going to do away with brake compensator on the rear and abs pump on the front when I re do the lines.
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#28Quote:Yeah I Spose tbh the back locks up 1st. I'm going to do away with brake compensator on the rear and abs pump on the front when I re do the lines.
Yeah, it's the compensator causing the backs to lock but you can't run a 50/50 bias haha! You'll need a manual bias valve to replace the compensator
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#29Okay. Where does the bias need to be fitted along the lines? Won't removing the compensator be alright and use straight from mc
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#30Quote:Okay. Where does the bias need to be fitted along the lines? Won't removing the compensator be alright and use straight from mc
Lol but then it'll be a 50/50 split and backs will continue to lock up first, could be an MoT failure as it's dangerous.
You leave the front 2 lines as they are coming out of the MC but then you'll need to T-piece the 2 rear ones together so they share one brake line, through the bias valve then T-piece them back out to each back wheel.
Or alternatively what I did, change for a 2-port MC, then T-piece one line to the 2 front wheels, run a single line to the back, through the bias valve then T-Piece to each wheel.
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#31Yeah I've got a 23mm 2 port mc so will be using 1 port for front and 1 port for rear with t pieces for each caliper. Where did put you bias valve under the bonnet?
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#32Quote:Yeah I've got a 23mm 2 port mc so will be using 1 port for front and 1 port for rear with t pieces for each caliper. Where did put you bias valve under the bonnet?
No mine was inside the car but any where along the line to the back will be fine! My car was my daily so I ran my brake lines under the car, but then brough the rear line inside to the bias valve then back out again (back end was stripped out with a false floor so bias valve was hidden and protected under the floor)

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#33Okay. Will do that it looks quite good. Do you still have your bias valve. So when it comes to setting up the bias valve when all connected how do you know how many turns to make it the correct setup? Sorry but I'm totally lost when it comes to this. Lol.
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#34Quote:Okay. Will do that it looks quite good. Do you still have your bias valve. So when it comes to setting up the bias valve when all connected how do you know how many turns to make it the correct setup? Sorry but I'm totally lost when it comes to this. Lol.
I've recently broken up my car but I still have the bias valve yes, new mine was about £50.
And you go out, drive it and slam on, see what happens and adjust from there haha!
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#35Okay. Is the bias still in good condition? Pic? And how much? If it's as simple as that I should be fine. lol.
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#36Quote:Okay. Is the bias still in good condition? Pic? And how much? If it's as simple as that I should be fine. lol.
Ah sorry I'm keeping it haha
in case I need it again
but yes that simple, but bare in mind that you may get a good setup in a straight line but whilst cornering, the rears will lock up easier so if you brake whilst cornering you may end up spinning. Just take a while trying lots of different settings etc and you'll be fine! Or if you have access to some brake test rollers then you could use them to set to a percentage bias
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#37Okay. Yeah I will probly get my mate to set it up on his mot brake check thing just chuck him a drink for doing it.
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#38Quote:Okay. Yeah I will probly get my mate to set it up on his mot brake check thing just chuck him a drink for doing it.
Yeah do that then that'll provide a good base, you'll need more to the front than standard if you're stripped out at back.
But he can give you a base and go for a drive and see what it's like!
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#39I have bias valves if you need one. We tend to fit them in the enginebay if a full interior is fitted, rather than right at the back of the car..
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#40Okay. Thanks for the help and advice fella
