Important! : Wishbone Mounting Torque settings

25th June 2016, 16:25

Need torque numbers for wishbone 2 back that goes in footwel of car.
Middle one and front ball joint and centre hub please.

25th June 2016, 17:33

Footwell 40nm
Middle 85nm
Balljoint 38nm (use new nut)
Hub nut 250nm

25th June 2016, 18:09

Quote:

Originally Posted by VeiRoN

Footwell 40nm
Middle 85nm
Balljoint 38nm (use new nut)
Hub nut 250nm

Thank you for this was unsure if same for saxo vtr vts or different on vts.

hunb nut didn't need to take off as managed to take wishbone off without hassle of leg.

Ball joint seen video different settings saying 50nm for balljoint but that for 106 but am guessing maybe different for saxo vts??

25th June 2016, 18:30

No problem,not sure about the 106 but these come off a Saxo Haynes manual and it doesn't distinguish between other models for the lower arm so torque setting will be the same.

25th June 2016, 20:01

Quote:

Originally Posted by VeiRoN

No problem,not sure about the 106 but these come off a Saxo Haynes manual and it doesn't distinguish between other models for the lower arm so torque setting will be the same.

Well I prefer Haynes manual than some 106 video lol.

Can they be a little over the torque setting as I cant judge this torque wrench I have just has 80 then 100 and lines small then one big line guessing that is 90Nm and in between are 2nm parts and in between small line where no line is is 1nm fucking things gonna have get a digital one that sets if their such a thing.

25th June 2016, 20:33

You should be able to set the torque as you like in increments of two,which torque wrench do you have?

25th June 2016, 23:10

Quote:

Originally Posted by VeiRoN

You should be able to set the torque as you like in increments of two,which torque wrench do you have?

Think the make is Norbar 40 200 nm and pounds on it too not fully sure on the make but same style of reading on it but more lines on it

28th June 2016, 08:47

you are getting far too wound up abouti ncorrect torque settings
i promise you there are no mechanics, that do this for a job, that use a torque wrench on ALL nuts and bolts --you couldn,t afford to pay them if they did, it would double the time of every job nearly .
just do them up tight with normal length spanners or ratchet --they will be fine .
Iwould have been more impressed if someone had mentioned that the car should be sitting on the ground when tigthening up the bolt securing the front wishbone bush --so the rubber is in a relaxed setting when suspension is in its natural position
in some case not doing this can cause premature failure of bushs
and if you want to get really anal --having bush under twist when car is at rest is actually altering the spring /ARB rate ..
as for correct torques you can look at an engineering guide and see what the torque of any normal bolt should be - by knowing size and tensile markings on the bolt head

eg 8.8 ,10.9 .12.9

and of course you have cleaned+ grease or oiled all the threads and faces to get rid of any incorrect clamping due to friction of nut on the bolt and against the metal it is tightening up to which will mean actual torque on the mounting point is less than the wrench reads ,cos settings are for new components not old rusty ones
I as normal good engineering practise use copper slip on all things on reassembly -reduces friction and means it won,t be rusty when next it has to be removed--I might be the next man to strip down

an old saying --"tights is tight +too tight is fucked "

only thing worth using torque wrench on is special bolts like cylinder head ,crankshaft ,con rods etc-- which will be special steels and stretch qualities+ fine threads usually on crank bolts

hub nut if you can strip that even with a 36" head bar you ,ll be first man ever to do so
and they do not come loose if you do them right -ever
don,t trust yourself ?--go back round them after a day on the road -bet they feel tighter than when you did them first time --friction only ones liablel to later are the ones in the footwell --cos you are squishing 4 layers of the chassis together --was very common on new cars cos the torque settings didn,t allow for poor spot welding leaving gaps at the fixing point + and std torque did not pull them all close
so in time they appeared to come loose --was just the 4 layers finally compressing closer so allowing a gap to form enough to make a knocking sound
If only other worry would be the ball joint pinch bolt if someone has already over tightened it with an air gun in the past + strectched it--you want to be sure --fit a new one