idle problems (Found Problem = idle valve )

8th October 2016, 19:24

Next problem on me list to fix intermattant idel problem.

When cold car is rev between 800 to 1100 moving up n down n revving.

When driving changing gears taking foot off peddle car will still hold its revs for about 2 to 3 sec then go down.

When idle and warm still revs between 800 to 1k revs and sometimes higher.

DO I need to change the inlet manifold sensors or do they just need cleaning up? Is their any guides on how to clean first before I start trying to replace everything?

Thanks in advance.

9th October 2016, 18:25

Found problem to it seems my idle control valve is fucked tried cleaning everything off was dirty as hell put together again now fucking things stuck at 4k revs. Anyway to adjust this to be derivable ? until get new one.

also with these where to buy as am seeing most places like £80+ if not more.

9th October 2016, 21:14

Try turning the ignition on/off 6 times without starting it,some may disagree with me but it does work.

10th October 2016, 08:21

I always thought it was 7 times Stevo?

I usually turned it on until the fuel pump finished priming then turned it off and repeated 6 more times then started it on the last time. Never did anything in fairness.

Regarding the £80 ICV. A proper Bosch/MM one will be that price, I've ran a 'fuel parts' one from eBay previously and didn't rate it. You could try this one - https://www.amazon.co.uk/L%C3%96WE-a...s=idle+control

10th October 2016, 10:38

Just because it's not idling right don't jump straight to it being the idle control valve as it can be other things like temp sensors etc causing it to act up or vacuum leaks

10th October 2016, 10:55

Have had the valve out and its not moving back and forth like it meant to regardless how hard pushing or pulling on it have hit checked other bits and seems fine by looks of it and had on test and is pointing towards it

10th October 2016, 19:26

It won't move by pushing and pulling on it its on a motor which winds it in and out. you can test it by connecting it up to a battery though to see if it moves ok

10th October 2016, 20:27

Clean it up first with a lubricant spray.

10th October 2016, 20:52

Have used carb clearer on it and was totaly black all sorts of crap coming out if it guessing old grease and lots dirt that buildup over the years in it.. Since cleaning it the valve have tested it and since this stopped being stuck on 4k revs when reconnected up and now I am having idle and start up problems. Started this morning wouldn't hold its revs and eventually managed to get going and revving tis ass between 700 to around 1200 area up n down and give it a few revs and cuts out so am having to hold the revs on it. So more leading me to think the valve is shaged. Manged to find new for £15 so ordered and going to see if this cures it am hoping so anyway as phased everthing else out that could cause this as its only had idle problem then had 4k revs problems and after testing and claning up has stopped the 4k constant revs but still reving ad cutting out.

10th October 2016, 21:29

Just beware of the cheap ones as they can be just as bad as a knackered one but you might get lucky with one, siemens VDO are the original units but not cheap.

10th October 2016, 21:51

Have a gander on gsf car parts.

10th October 2016, 21:57

Quote:

Originally Posted by stevo67

Have a gander on gsf car parts.

I bought one of theirs absolute shite

11th October 2016, 02:21

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ben_SaxoForte

Just beware of the cheap ones as they can be just as bad as a knackered one but you might get lucky with one, siemens VDO are the original units but not cheap.

Yeah have seen going about £42 upwartds. Looking at this one in it I think it is not orignal and a cheap make as no markings on it or serial numbers seen a few numbers near connection but nothing else. SO unless orignal and warn down. Willing to take a risk for £10 if it work it works. Maybe a trip down to good old faithful scrappers where I get most me bits when needed.

Are they any difference on different saxos or are they all the same on VTS/VTR as in same 1.6 version?

11th October 2016, 13:46

Quote:

Originally Posted by DaCrazyOne

Yeah have seen going about £42 upwartds. Looking at this one in it I think it is not orignal and a cheap make as no markings on it or serial numbers seen a few numbers near connection but nothing else. SO unless orignal and warn down. Willing to take a risk for £10 if it work it works. Maybe a trip down to good old faithful scrappers where I get most me bits when needed.

Are they any difference on different saxos or are they all the same on VTS/VTR as in same 1.6 version?

They're mostly the same I think there's a few exceptions, as long as it's the same plug and the end of the icv is the same shape you should be alright

11th October 2016, 20:22

I think the vts icv have a longer piece(piece that pulses in and out)

13th October 2016, 00:36

Old one out new one in. Gone for a drive round was still revving to begin with and now after bout 15 mile drive seems much better maybe 5 to 10 rev if that now so very minimal starts up ok no cutting out for now at least. Need wait over night now to cool down fully and see if it starts and idels fine.

13th October 2016, 07:00

Might be best to also disconnect the battery for 15 minutes to reset it.

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

13th October 2016, 16:09

Guess that is also needed then to reset ecu and detect new valve? If so I'll do that tonight is running lot better tho maybe rese will fix rest

22nd October 2016, 18:07

Quote:

Originally Posted by Phaeton

Might be best to also disconnect the battery for 15 minutes to reset it.

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Tried this has improved it but still am getting a tiny rev up n down here in their.

Am wondering if to give it some more clearer though inlet on it but the control valve and block is totally clean now no gunk or crap on it as removed cleaned up and put new inlet control valve in, wondering if it is maybe temp sensor next as seems to go away when car is warm?

22nd October 2016, 18:35

Are you losing any coolant?

23rd October 2016, 18:47

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ben_SaxoForte

Are you losing any coolant?

None that I can see. Checked all pipe work nothing leaking also checked radiator. All seems as normal and dry no leaks no cracks no nadda. I do have a split r pipe that has been taped up for the airbox pipe that goes into the inlet that is a shape of letter r or t sort that goes from inlet to airbox but that is air tight and sealed proper. So I have no other ideas to what cause is.

All levels on fluids fine including rest of fluids for car too.
no broken pipes or leaks.
all temps all good and in normal range too.

23rd October 2016, 19:15

I just say that because on my vtr I had a similar problem to what you are describing the revs used to act up depending on engine temp and idle wasn't as it should be. I changed allsorts of sensors, ICV, temp sensors, coil pack, map sensor, lambda sensors pretty much everything and in the end I noticed the car was loosing a slight amount of coolant, not really enough to notice but it was the headgasket that had gone and it was burning the water off through the exhaust which I'm pretty sure is what was causing the issues. So if you don't get it sorted i'd suggest getting compression tested and coolant tested.

23rd October 2016, 19:25

Thing is never use to get this problem and before hand idle control valve that was changed cured it from hitting 4k revs and not going back down the other inlet sensor is fucked as i have since looked over it again and was stuck and had on a volt to have it working and its staying in a fixed position after moving one way and not moving when it meant to. Everything seems clean and tidy so am beginning to now think it is something else that is the smaller cause.

With regards to the compression tested and coolant test how much does this normally cost ?

23rd October 2016, 19:43

It depends where you go really but I wouldn't have thought it should be much more than between 20-40 quid for both? you can buy kits on eBay though pretty cheap so might be worth getting your own to test it with at least you get to keep the tools then if you want to use them again.

23rd October 2016, 19:56

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ben_SaxoForte

It depends where you go really but I wouldn't have thought it should be much more than between 20-40 quid for both? you can buy kits on eBay though pretty cheap so might be worth getting your own to test it with at least you get to keep the tools then if you want to use them again.

Well true that is. I need a quick fix at the min so 20 to 40 is not that bad to have the test done and can look at kit later if its not much to work out as I dont have a clue when it comes to this sort thing. Learning bit by bit with it over the years most the work I do myself now as got most the settings for whats what just engine type work is like huh wtf this lol

23rd October 2016, 20:00

Well its best to know you've got a good engine before you start throwing parts at it, I've made that mistake in the past and now I know its best to diagnose the problem than try and guess at it even if it costs you to get the tests done it will work out cheaper in the long run

23rd October 2016, 20:12

Yeah is what am thinking have tests done before buying parts. Cars only on 88k miles and I got it with 54500 on it but that said was in bad condition when I got it but since had all work done on it and just finding little bits here and their with it now and some problems popping up. Most the work done ripped parts off being orignal and well worn out. So am maybe thinking its orignal head gasket that is also on it but I do not know much on engines myself how long it is before one goes or needs changing. No doubt get booked in this coming week for a tests on compression and coolant too. Thanks for the info on pointing this out. So many helpful people here saved me a fortune over the years so thx Ben for the information

23rd October 2016, 20:39

No worries, there isn't really a time for changing a head gasket its just when it goes really, but it might not actually be that I'm just saying its a good idea to get those things checked then if its not then at least you can rule them out.

6th November 2016, 16:01

Had tested not head or coolent nor is any error codes poping up no leaks even changed sensor again with one of another vts and still doing it even garage can't figure it out saif might be something else causing ideal problem as goes away when car is warm checked inlet manifold is fine spark plugs fine head fine coolent fine injectors fine. From full check seems all fine but something is causing it to idle and rev till warm. Anyone got any idea what this could be to also check??

7th November 2016, 15:41

Quite a difficult one this, saxo's are a nightmare for idle issues! so did you change the temp sensors over?

12th December 2016, 20:47

Had all sensors replaced now and still the fking thing idlie rev problem. Think I might go somewhere else and have a pressure test again as someone advised to have done. Cant work out what cause is to this problem.

13th December 2016, 11:52

So only plays up when the engine is cold? Revs fine then once its warm?

13th December 2016, 19:20

Its intermittent sometimes fine sometimes not even does when engine is warm and at temperature and also when cold so its tough to say what cause is

13th December 2016, 22:01

Daft question but does the car still have the "hot air pump" on it? Only reason I ask is a friend fitted a vts engine in his c1 with the same issues and turned out to be the air pump doing what it wanted, worked fine after a delete kit was made up for it.

15th December 2016, 02:33

I dont think so I will check this tomorrow as not checked that yet I know few weeks ago I did have to top it up but not had to do in a long time. But will check it see if its gone down in terms of level.

24th December 2016, 17:34

Just fitted new inlet air sensor again fine for 2 days so looked more into it compared to orignal one and found the the rubber round the new one is smaller than the orignal fitted one on it. Swapped it around and was fine for 3 days and is going back to what it did before. Had all other parts sensors change too and even garage cant work it out and am now seeing changing inlet control valve again it seems to be the problem and thew cause of it. Works fine for a few days back to square one. Only thing I dont fancy is having to pay for dealer one.