Is my Saxo really worth the repair?

  1. #1
    I bought a Saxo the other day, had to have a flat bed deliver it round into the garage. I drove it a matter of meters merely to back it up when the wheel bearing went, I knew this was an issue (hence the flat bed to get it to my house, but wasn't made aware how big the problem was from previous owner ). Anyway, had some mobile mechanics come out and they have diagnosed the car.. basically the whole side of the drivers side needs work (driveshaft, etc) but the rest of the car is solid. The mechanic said they have taken grinders... YES, GRINDERS... to the car! The suspension, everything, which is why the wheel bearing has went. The engine bay is also rusted on the drivers side and apparently the engine would need to be taken out for the welding to be done, which was estimated at £700. The brake pipes all need work to them also. My boyfriend can do the work if I buy the parts, and we know the gentleman who owns a scrapyard who has been a big help in restoring my boyfriends Fiesta.
    I really, really have fell in love with this car. Don't ask me why, I don't really have an answer, I just feel awful because of how badly treat it has been. Anyway, my friend uses a different mobile mechanic who has a £30 call out fee and I was thinking of just asking for him to take a look at it?

    I just don't know! I love Citroen Saxos and I bought this because I have never seen one for sale around here. The mechanic said it is all fixable, just needs A LOT of time and money.

    Also, if I was to go ahead with the work, what engine could I use? It has the original in, but I was looking for something a bit bigger than a 1.1L. TIA!!!!!!!
  2. #2
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by klusaxo View Post
    The engine bay is also rusted on the drivers side and apparently the engine would need to be taken out for the welding to be done, which was estimated at £700.
    UPDATE: My Grandad has all the welding stuff I need, could this be a job I can do myself to keep costs low? Has anyone taken out an engine themselves? If this was the case I wouldn't bother swapping it.
  3. #3
    Erm, the engine doesn't have to come out for welding, but obviously if you want a really good job it will have to come out.

    The engine is designed to come out through the bottom of the car. It's a case of disconnecting the mounts, fuel lines, gear linkages. Lowering the engine and gearbox on a jack onto some wood, then lifting the car body over the engine.

    I don't understand how using a grinder could have made the wheel bearing go, something doesn't add up!
  4. #4
    All the work you describe needing done is pretty simple if you can tackle it yourself. The 'hardest' part is probably welding, though it is perfectly doable if you practise a bit. J&R driveshafts are very keenly priced and good quality by the way, when it comes to the driveshaft. As martin says, you should not need to remove the engine unless the welding required is right on the side of the front chassis rails or somewhere else that is inaccessible with the engine in. If it is the usual areas under the ECU or in a similar location on the other side, then engine can stay in. Some pics of the rust would help.
  5. #5
    So the grinding you mention, could it be that the strut has been enlarged to take an incorrect bearing or a pattern part that is ever so slightly too big? When I had the rear bearings changed on my zx the only available ones for a disc rear beam were slightly too small for the stub axles, so he had to grind them ever so slightly to get the bearing to fit. A new strut should be easy to get hold of if necessary. With regards to the welding, if it's not accessible easily from inside the wheel well or engine bay, try scraping as much surface rust off with whatever will reach, and treat it to stop it getting any worse while you save up that seven hundred.

    Saxos seem to all have rusted away or been tracked/crashed, you should definitely keep hold of it
  6. #6
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by MartinObviously View Post
    something doesn't add up!

    I agree. Im getting a second opinion from another mobile mechanic, compare what each of them said and go from there.
  7. #7
    I have previously ordered some driveshafts from Robert Connochie on this website:

    https://www.driveshaftuk.com/


    Old fashioned guy and reliable, possibly best prices in the UK. Sorted in 48 hours and delivered to my garage after the bank transfer.

    Quote:
    I was looking for something a bit bigger than a 1.1L
    In that case make sure you know what you're getting before ordering anything.
  8. #8
    more likely some put the wrong wheel bearing in, there be two types, the welding will be under the ecu would only need to take the engine out if its rotten under the engine mount. what type of welder does he have if its a stick/arc very much doubt he could weld the inner wing, the steel is paper thin had difficulty welding up a few holes in mine with gas mig that goes down to 15 amps
  9. #9
    I would try and do all the work myself if i can. As for welding if its under the ecu . Engine doesnt have to come out. As said you need a welder suitable for car sheet metal. mig welders are good but stick weldera burn through the metal.<br><br>Sent from my VFD 510 using Tapatalk<br><br>
  10. #10
    in short no..