tightening rear arb

5th April 2007, 12:17

a few people have asked how to do this, when they start to get a clank from teh rear of the car.

first get the rear jacked up and get the passenger rear wheel off, then take out the rubber plug from the ARB end plate and you'll have this veiw.

the use a 13mm bolt (M8) and some washers/socket (shown below0, and screw the bolt into arb, as the washers are stopping it going in it will pull the arb further onto the splines.

5th April 2007, 14:14

So the bolt stays in does it instead of the crappy rubber plug? Any idea on the length of the 13mm M8 bolt thats best? Ive got some left that are about 3cm long

5th April 2007, 14:15

Did this to mine but the damn thing still rattles! Think the actual plate is loose..

5th April 2007, 14:31

no, just use the bolt to pull the ARB further in. then refit the plug.

5th April 2007, 14:31

just long enough to get a decent hold. too long and it will bottom out.

5th April 2007, 14:33

Rushy, I thought you tightned / greased / replaced the 'end plate' bolt, which is what holds the 'end plate' to the trailling arm. I'm going to have a go at this, so can you clarify mate?

5th April 2007, 14:43

clarify what mate? that will tighten ARb.

5th April 2007, 15:05

LOL, no, I was asking Rushy if what he did was what I thought... I've got a feeling he hasn't tried what you have suggested. I might be wrong...

5th April 2007, 15:07

Although Williams, I'm guessing you have to press inward quite hard, so you don't just start pulling the end plate out with ARB? Or am I being a total spaz?

5th April 2007, 15:15

the end plate is bolted to the trailing arm so cant go anywhere

5th April 2007, 15:21

I knew that! I really did, promise!

I was looking at my picture above and thinking about this plate just falling off...

5th April 2007, 15:25

Tell you what though Williams, I'll be over the moon if this solves my problem, but I don't have a lot of confidence...I don't know if I told you this already, but I found that when I grab the end plat, I can actually move it upwards and downwards about 2mm each way. And if I do it firmly enough, it makes the noise I hear when driving over those nasty pumps... So basically, it's as if the end plate is too small for whatever its sitting in.

5th April 2007, 16:10

that with the bolt out though?

5th April 2007, 16:21

Just read through again, your right Toad didnt give the above a try! Doh.

5th April 2007, 16:32

lol, thats what you need to do. so what did you do?

5th April 2007, 16:43

Tightned + greased the end plate bolt! lol.

5th April 2007, 16:53

lol, get the above done!!!!!!!

5th April 2007, 19:03

I will defo get this done. About the bolt, yes, I can only move it when there is no bolt in. But what's one diddy bolt when you have not far off a tonne of weight smacking up and down.

5th April 2007, 19:30

thats why the bolt is there, so it doesnt move, lol

you havent got the weight of the car on that bolt either. its been well designed so is up to the job.

5th April 2007, 20:08

OK, nice one. Here's some rep for ya!

I really hope this works! I tell you what though, since I've stripped the car's interior out completely, it sounds like a bag of spanners anyway. Haha, probably not going to be that satisfying after all! Oh boy...

6th April 2007, 11:03

LOL Toad, my uncle keeps moaning at me about removing the boot insulation
and parcel shelf. He would hate my car if it was like yours!

7th April 2007, 22:25

you can use manifold studs, thats what i used today.

8th April 2007, 00:19

going to do this tomorrow

cheers for the fannimold stud williams

7th July 2007, 16:53

Sorry guys, I know this is an oldish thread, but i'm attempting this today, an im needing a little more help, after removing the rubber plug and pulling the ARB further onto the splines, do i then do the same on the drivers side!? and how do i know how far to pull it using the screw!?

any help appreciated!

8th July 2007, 23:51

cant do it on the drives side its blanked. A bit late from your post so i guess you may have already found this out

9th July 2007, 12:31

Quote:

Originally Posted by williamsvts

a few people have asked how to do this, when they start to get a clank from teh rear of the car.

first get the rear jacked up and get the passenger rear wheel off, then take out the rubber plug from the ARB end plate and you'll have this veiw.

the use a 13mm bolt (M8) and some washers/socket (shown below0, and screw the bolt into arb, as the washers are stopping it going in it will pull the arb further onto the splines.

I just can't get the jist of this, I've seen advice on curing this problem that seems to hint at tightening differing bolts. Is it the middle bolt you take out grease and tighten up or the bolt at the end that you do the same with or both?

Bit worried now as the noise as gone from a slight ping to a loud scrape.

11th July 2007, 18:19

the other guide says to take out the 13mm bolt and apply grease before re-fitting it.

grease??? what sort of grease is this? and where can i get some?

thanks

12th July 2007, 11:02

copper grease I used but it was the 13mm that was on just the drivers side that I had to tighten up.

19th July 2007, 14:34

thats not fixing the problem though. that is hiding teh noise the problem makes.

25th July 2007, 17:38

i've tried this but this hasnt actually stopped the squeaking noise.
took me forever to get the wheel off as well, jacking up was a pain! first time i'd done it though.

anymore ideas? or should i just try the garage?

29th July 2007, 17:16

so just done this just want to check ive done it right so ive put more washers on used a new bolt put back in the right hand hole is this correct

thanks

29th July 2007, 20:42

Quote:

Originally Posted by saxojonny

i've tried this but this hasnt actually stopped the squeaking noise.
took me forever to get the wheel off as well, jacking up was a pain! first time i'd done it though.

anymore ideas? or should i just try the garage?

you need to replace the bolt in the right hand hole, or simple tighten it u, if it hasn't fallen out!

Quote:

Originally Posted by pinky

so just done this just want to check ive done it right so ive put more washers on used a new bolt put back in the right hand hole is this correct

thanks

thats what i did and it stopped the squeek mate!

29th July 2007, 22:30

looks like new driveshaft for me then i've done everything to try and get rid of knocking bar that sigh ah well

11th September 2007, 16:14

Repd Williamsvts

Good guide fixed my clunking

12th September 2007, 15:48

After a long drive its back - thinking I didnt pull it enough does anyone have a close up so I can compare?

13th September 2007, 03:32

keep going till its nearly touching.

16th September 2007, 16:05

good guide, my problem is now solved!!!

22nd September 2007, 16:50

im been really thick here, ive no idea what to do, but these needs doing on mine as im getting the clank from the rear of my car. so i take the bolt out put some washers on it and the screw back in?

24th September 2007, 23:24

my pings back!!

this is only a temporary conclusion to the problem, we need a better solution thats more perminant!!!!

27th September 2007, 07:45

anyone suggest a more perminant solution!?

27th September 2007, 14:46

mr williams you will have to do mine and the cams one time

27th September 2007, 15:25

Quote:

Originally Posted by S34MER

anyone suggest a more perminant solution!?

Yeah, get the end plates welded to the axle. Their movement is what's causing the noise.

8th October 2007, 07:48

would it cause a problem to leave a bolt in there!?

12th October 2007, 17:51

anyone know???

24th August 2008, 17:24

Worked well for me! Although the rubber bung was really hard to get out, it came apart and i had to pull it out piece by piece. No more clanking noises! Cheers Williams!

25th September 2008, 11:13

sorry to bump a old thread up but is it exactly same as the 1.1i saxo ? as i want to check mine

25th September 2008, 11:19

yes mate its identical

25th September 2008, 11:36

thanks

22nd December 2008, 18:20

sorry to bring this back to the top.

do you put the bolt in and tighten with a spanner or use it sort of like a slide hammer to pull towards the end?

22nd December 2008, 19:21

Either way... If you're going to use a bolt, you need something to lock it off with, like a big washer, so as you're tightening it, you're actually pulling the ARB outward.

22nd December 2008, 19:42

had it locked with a couple of washers and a nylon spacer

thanks

22nd December 2008, 19:50

i used washer, manifold stud and bolt.
wind the stud in, put the washer on (bigger than the hole of course) then put the nut on, and it pulls the arb outwards towards you.

20th January 2009, 13:56

Gotta bump this thread up. Is this the actual cure for this problem?

I did replace new end plates and bolts a while back which did cure it, but now it is back with a vengeance.

20th January 2009, 13:58

is this the usual ting ting ting noise that comes from the rear? mine has a bad case of it although im unsure if its that or the magnex

20th January 2009, 14:03

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lozza_vtr

Gotta bump this thread up. Is this the actual cure for this problem?

I did replace new end plates a bolts a while back which did cure it, but now it is back with a vengeance.

nah it never goes away! lol
mines back now, loads of grease ftw

20th January 2009, 18:08

Quote:

Originally Posted by dsh85

is this the usual ting ting ting noise that comes from the rear? mine has a bad case of it although im unsure if its that or the magnex

Yeah could be, it is a bit of a strange noise really. Sounds a bit like driving over a loose man hole cover or 2 glass bottles clanking together.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steve_VTS

nah it never goes away! lol
mines back now, loads of grease ftw

Shite, i thought as much. Gonna get the grease out fella.

20th January 2009, 18:09

2 glass bottles would be the perfect description! do you have a magnex by any chance?

20th January 2009, 18:33

Quote:

Originally Posted by dsh85

2 glass bottles would be the perfect description! do you have a magnex by any chance?

Nope mate, i am using a Piper exhaust.

20th January 2009, 19:23

Ive got it too. Basically tried most things now, including Loctite. The Loctite made it last longer than normal but it still did it after a month or so.

its just the ARB plate retaining bolt working loose and the plate banging on it. Ive got some putty to put onto it this time that dires like metal apparently and needs blowtorching to get off. If that fails, its getting welded as im fucking sick of it in fairness and its even louder outside which is embaressing.

21st January 2009, 00:39

the glass bottle noise is the arb loose in the beam. thats what you need to jack back towards the passenger side with the bolt. if you ensure there is a good amount of grease in, and you pull the arb as far as possible to the passenger side. there is no reason why it should come loose. min has been fine since i did it a while back. takes some time to pull the arb as far as possible.

if it bottle noises, its defo the arb

danny boy, i never had any bother with my magnex systems ;D sort your arb out, piece of piss

21st January 2009, 00:44

arb end plate bolt should not come loose.
the spline from the arb locates onto and into the end plate, they are normally as close to an interference fit as possible, hence why you have to bray them out.

jacking the arb as williams has described does sort out this problem. as a few peeps have said, i can also say it works ;D
no need to go welding any end plates on, you will still have the noise as the arb moves about in the beam. normally worse when turning as the force moves the arb and it clunks (like milk bottles hitting each other). pulling or jacking it with a bolt as far as possible will secure it into the passenger end plate and stop any clunks.
this noise normally comes about after a car has been lowered, most places dont bother to pull / jack the arb into the end plate.

21st January 2009, 00:53

joys of the ARB.

mines pinging again and my rear hub is so much of a mess i dont want to get the wheel off of it till ive got the new hub ready to fit.

is the pass side mostly it seems aswell.

I shat myself going round a left hander slowly yday as sounded like my wheel did when it fell off lol

21st January 2009, 02:10

lol thats defo not good matey.

euro car parts do a nice new rear hub quite cheap

21st January 2009, 08:58

This might be worth a mention:

When doing up the 13mm bolt which holds the ARB end plates in place on against the trailing arm the correct tightness is 25nm.

Heard a few stories in the past of people overtightening these and snapping them off.

Check these bolts, if they look aged and a bit shabby itll be worth replacing them, they come already with the 'lock tight' sibstance at the end of the thread to ensure that they dont work loose. If your existing ones have been removed often you might find that theres little of the original stuff left on the thread to have an effect.

21st January 2009, 10:42

i have drilled and tapped min so they take bigger bolts

only because one side had snapped lol

lock tight is good stuff, just use a wee bit tho. to much and you can sheer the head off the bolts when taking them out.
if in doubt, apply a bit of heat to any bolts that have had locktight applied to them. lock tight dont like heat and will come out easier

21st January 2009, 10:52

currently i put a bigger washer on and some thread lock, torqued that baby up.
Only started knocking again recently checked it and its all tight

ah well lol

21st January 2009, 22:58

i have tried this before... couldnt get the thread started on my arb on the passenger side

and the monkey that had my car before me had the drivers side plate welded on lol

22nd January 2009, 00:36

Quote:

Originally Posted by boz

lol thats defo not good matey.

euro car parts do a nice new rear hub quite cheap

got a spare hub just the bearing would need to be swapped init, alex feels using the mix of a spare second hand hub on an other bearing isnt good.

atm my hub is going to be attacked more to get the wheel on and off easyer before brands on the 28th. new hub soon after.

*my arb bolt was missing aswell lol so explains for sure the ping ping*

22nd January 2009, 10:27

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ryan

got a spare hub just the bearing would need to be swapped init, alex feels using the mix of a spare second hand hub on an other bearing isnt good.

atm my hub is going to be attacked more to get the wheel on and off easyer before brands on the 28th. new hub soon after.

*my arb bolt was missing aswell lol so explains for sure the ping ping*

just make sure the bearing housing dosnt spin, i normally use locktite bearing lock, similar to trhead lock

should be ok.

22nd January 2009, 10:31

Quote:

Originally Posted by turbotom

i have tried this before... couldnt get the thread started on my arb on the passenger side

and the monkey that had my car before me had the drivers side plate welded on lol

thats bad crack! so its welded onto your trailing arm?

you can get it started because the bolt your using is too short??

if so, just get hold of a longer bolt or some threaded bar and use a couple of nuts locked off together so you can turn the bar

i always make sure i run a tap down the thread in the arb, sometimes when knocking it out you can push the 1st few threads in and a bolt wont go in after that unless you run a tap down it.

sound like your arb may be to far towards the drivers side and defo needs pulling towards the passenger side matey.

22nd January 2009, 22:45

Quote:

Originally Posted by boz

just make sure the bearing housing dosnt spin, i normally use locktite bearing lock, similar to trhead lock

should be ok.

interesting. shame you are not down souuuuuuuuuuuf and wanted to try it

I think im going to grind down the lip on the hub where its bent and catching on the wheel, as not go time to change the hub and not have any fuck ups before brands on wed lol

23rd January 2009, 00:09

Quote:

Originally Posted by boz

thats bad crack! so its welded onto your trailing arm?

you can get it started because the bolt your using is too short??

if so, just get hold of a longer bolt or some threaded bar and use a couple of nuts locked off together so you can turn the bar

i always make sure i run a tap down the thread in the arb, sometimes when knocking it out you can push the 1st few threads in and a bolt wont go in after that unless you run a tap down it.

sound like your arb may be to far towards the drivers side and defo needs pulling towards the passenger side matey.

i had a bolt that was long enough mate. Just the thread wouldnt start. Thought the thread might be a wrong pitch or something so didnt want to force it lol...

You got any idea on thread size and i can get one to fit hopefully lol

21st March 2009, 10:28

Going to give this a go tonight, as just refurbed the rear beam and having the 'glasses' noise. With no interior its alot louder lol

23rd March 2009, 13:33

thanks very much for the guide

the number of times i was underneath the car trying to diagnose the noise. checking exhaust, spare wheel cage, dampers etc etc

the noise was doing my head in and as said, is louder outside the car and very noticeable

cheap and easy fix though. did mine a few months ago now and it's just starting to clank again on bad bumps, so will have to tighten it up again soon

6th April 2009, 13:39

can you not just leave a bolt and washer on the end so it doesnt move? as this is really pissing me off now !

10th April 2009, 10:16

does the arb stop when is been pulled out or is it guess work??

10th April 2009, 10:48

Quote:

Originally Posted by baker556

can you not just leave a bolt and washer on the end so it doesnt move? as this is really pissing me off now !

This is what i am actually wondering too, when i look at this guide below, they have replaced the rubber bung with a metal bolt. Wondering if this will be ok for road use, suppose you can use a rubber o'ring to stop water entering.

http://www.badgermotorsport.co.uk/lowering.htm

17th April 2009, 14:42

Quote:

Originally Posted by baker556

can you not just leave a bolt and washer on the end so it doesnt move? as this is really pissing me off now !

anyone know if i can do this?

17th April 2009, 16:50

course you could, give it ago and let us all know.

But more then likely without the nylon bolt in, water and moisture and shite will get in and feck your bearings.

17th April 2009, 16:50

Quote:

Originally Posted by baker556

can you not just leave a bolt and washer on the end so it doesnt move? as this is really pissing me off now !

did that with mine the other day and it's still clanking

only over really harsh bumps though. so good enough

i also replaced all the torx bolts in the ends of the torsion bars with short thread length hex heads. much better

got a short thread length m10 to replace the arb rubber bung aswell but it's too small so will leave the bolt and washer in for now

29th June 2009, 15:32

Bit of a bump but how much are these to actually replace alltogether? Can they be replaced? As my clunking noise still remains

29th June 2009, 15:41

Why does it only make this noise after its been lowered? and woudnt stiffer dampers stop this?

29th June 2009, 17:31

you got the end plate bolts in tight?

30th June 2009, 14:22

Quote:

Originally Posted by williamsvts

the use a 13mm bolt (M8) and some washers/socket (shown below0, and screw the bolt into arb, as the washers are stopping it going in it will pull the arb further onto the splines.

where do you get a bolt with the same thread for this job mate?

30th June 2009, 14:39

Quote:

Originally Posted by VTRia

where do you get a bolt with the same thread for this job mate?

manifold stud

or any m8 bolt.

I used a washer, manifold stud and nut, as you can only screw it in so far, works a treat.

Just had my arb out when lowering the car need to tighten mine up again.

Can get m8 bolts from bnq cheap, think there about 29p or a pack of ten with nuts and washers was £2.98 the other day when i needed some for my torsion bars, but i had to cut them to size

30th June 2009, 14:41

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steve_VTS

manifold stud

or any m8 bolt.

I used a washer, manifold stud and nut, as you can only screw it in so far, works a treat.

Just had my arb out when lowering the car need to tighten mine up again.

Can get m8 bolts from bnq cheap, think there about 29p or a pack of ten with nuts and washers was £2.98 the other day when i needed some for my torsion bars, but i had to cut them to size

cheers bud

30th June 2009, 14:42

no probs

17th July 2009, 21:42

I'm not 100% sure about this.

Surley pulling the ARB out, closer to the wheel if you like. It will pull the ARB INTO the beam the other side?

Or is the ARB in 2 bits?

Doing this will make the rear end stiffer, but putting more strain on it?

17th July 2009, 21:45

Quote:

Originally Posted by dannyboy2005

I'm not 100% sure about this.

Surley pulling the ARB out, closer to the wheel if you like. It will pull the ARB INTO the beam the other side?

Or is the ARB in 2 bits?

Doing this will make the rear end stiffer, but putting more strain on it?

arb is in 3 bits man
2 end plates and the bar

by pulling t over youll just pull an end plate off

17th July 2009, 22:03

if everyone's getting the clanking back then the only solution is a refurb, change the bearings and pins?

17th July 2009, 22:11

2 bits actually! as its the arb welded to one end plate, and then the arb plate on the passneger side, well it is on mine anyway.

surely you could leave the m8 bolt in as it will then eliminate the rattling by holding the two plates together? but on the downside it will put more pressure on the bearings by pulling them closer, making the loud seem heavier

27th July 2009, 12:36

do you have the guide to lowering your car?

27th July 2009, 12:38

Quote:

Originally Posted by BoiRacer

do you have the guide to lowering your car?

there is loads on the internet.

suzukituning.com has one.

also google badger motorsport torsion bar

or search on here for the links

and you dont lower a torsion bar.

27th July 2009, 12:49

ive decided that im gonna have mine pulled apart by a pro mech, while im at it how do you tell what size the arb is and whats the max can i go up to as in thickness? a thicker arb might solve the clunking forever.

27th July 2009, 12:55

Quote:

Originally Posted by raiya

ive decided that im gonna have mine pulled apart by a pro mech, while im at it how do you tell what size the arb is and whats the max can i go up to as in thickness? a thicker arb might solve the clunking forever.

measure it with a proper gauge. (caliper gauge)

standard vtr/vts are 22mm most 106gti' have 24mm rear arbs.

a thicker arb will not solve the problem, however. You sure its the arb? are your bearings ok on the arms or is there play? To check jack the rear of the car up and see if you can move the wheel outwards and inwards towards teh car, it shouldnt move at all.

You made sure the nuts on your rear dampers are tight? made sure the bolts holding the axle to the car are tight?

You can have a 25mm rear arb, but over kill imo with standard torsion bars. And more then likely end in you having a crash as it causes the car to oversteer more.

27th July 2009, 13:07

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steve_VTS

measure it with a proper gauge. (caliper gauge)

standard vtr/vts are 22mm most 106gti' have 24mm rear arbs.

a thicker arb will not solve the problem, however. You sure its the arb? are your bearings ok on the arms or is there play? To check jack the rear of the car up and see if you can move the wheel outwards and inwards towards teh car, it shouldnt move at all.

You made sure the nuts on your rear dampers are tight? made sure the bolts holding the axle to the car are tight?

You can have a 25mm rear arb, but over kill imo with standard torsion bars. And more then likely end in you having a crash as it causes the car to oversteer more.

ive done that dude, it only seems to be when i lift it.
no play outwards inwards.
i had it checked and they think it could be possibly the inner bearings.
think ive said this before to someone, if it was the outer bearings the camber would be inwards. i think its the arb thats loose.
if it is then it would mean the stub pins would probably be mashed too?

30th July 2009, 19:13

remove the rear arb. go for a drive to see if "it" is making the noise.

if its silent then its likely to be the end plate. if it is still creaking then question the dampers and bolts?

if it still creaks, test without them? but at your own will!

if your sure its the arb or related to cause the noise...

make sure the end plate is not been worn oval, this will encourage movement. just doing it up tight isnt usualy enough. if the arb end plate has been moving it will have worn a grove in the face where the washer will press against it. the 13mm bolt/washer wont sit tight against it. you may need a new end plate.

just a few ideas.

9th November 2009, 19:01

i used this guide on saturday, very helpful. i just hope it lasts lol

2nd January 2010, 00:36

bumpage

ive got a squeak from the rear over bumps. just had a look. the torx bolt on the anti roll bar plate (bolt that goes into the arb) seems to be not tightened all the way (still room to tighten it). is it supposed to be done up tight all the way?

3rd January 2010, 12:35

Gna try this soon.. the noise is gettin on my tets now

8th March 2010, 16:58

*Bump* Could this create a squeaking noise also?

8th March 2010, 17:02

urm, not normally, could be a damper ?

8th March 2010, 17:44

Hmm doesnt squeak when I push down on the back only when driving over bumps! proper annoying me now!

22nd March 2010, 13:33

Just tried doing this and got well blagged, so i read through this thread and got more blagged! Some people are saying you only do one side because theres nothing on the drivers side then some people say you do both sides???

Anyway i got the passenger rear wheel off and was stumped from then on, i managed to see the rubber grommet and took that off then didnt know what to do after lol.

You dont state which bolt it is your meant to do tighten/take out and grease up is it something to do with the grommet or is it one of the bolts either side of it? Cos the ones either side of the grommet dont seem to do anything but hold different parts on.

From reading this i thought there was gonna be a 13mm bolt BEHIND the rubber grommet, and when i took thr grommet out there didnt seem to be anything behind it? And the hole wasnt even 13mm it was smaller.

Im well confused

22nd March 2010, 15:56

its an M8 bolt you need, 13mm is the size of the socket you'd use

if you get one short enough you can just use a washer and bolt, stick a bit of sealant in and leave it on, keeps the end plate securely in the arm as well

23rd March 2010, 11:22

okay thanks if the passenger side was tight should i check drivers side?

25th March 2010, 16:10

You must tighten both sides. There is a 13mm bolt on both sides of the car.

22nd April 2010, 14:07

Just been reading this and its a bit confusing

So do i:

1. Jack the car up
2. passenger wheel off
3. Undo rubber grommit
4. get mani bolt and washer and thread into the arb
5. tighten up until the arb nearly reaches the hole?
6. put the grommit back in
7. Repeat on drivers side?

9th June 2010, 08:28

Quote:

Originally Posted by Maxamus

Hmm doesnt squeak when I push down on the back only when driving over bumps! proper annoying me now!

same mate mine was all fine for a while then started clanking again occasionally, so i jacked it up and used the bolt and washer method. it now clanks more plus there's a horrible loud squeak when i go over bumps! just seems to be when there's a lot of weight transferred to one side aswell. like going quickly round a corner or reversing onto my uphill driveway from an angle (one wheel first)

really doing my head in now

9th June 2010, 08:49

From experience i can say that every car ive worked on ive tightened the passenger side only. Unless they / i know that the arb has been removed from both end plates before. The end plates are on the arb very tight all your really doing is pulling the rear beam tight. It will take alot of force to detach it from the other end plate. There is no harm in doing both sides but i'm yet to experience any difference in doing both as opposed to just doing the passenger side.
When tightening it up, i undo the rubber grommet and wind in the appropriate size bolt with 3 big square spacers on it, then attach a spanner and a breaker bar (scaffold pole!). Then slowly do it up. It has to be very tight, but be careful not to snap the bolt or your in a world of trouble.

*TIP* - Are you experiencing a sound from the back end like two glass bottles knocking together?
Well try tightening the arb as described many times in this thread. However sometimes it will still persist. If this is the case, jack the car up and remove the wheel. You will see a 13mm (i think) bolt on the narrower end of the arb end plate. Remove this and coat in some copper grease.
Your trailing arm may drop a tiny amount when doing this, so its best to support it in the right position with another jack. This keeps it at the right height and reduces the chance of buggering the thread when undoing and refitting the bolt.
Then when refitting DON'T do up tight. Having this too tight can cause the sound by the arb end plate twisting on it. Do it up tight so it doesn't fall out but not over tight. Has cured this problem for alot of cars i work on. And now whenever i tighten up an arb i grease that bolt on both sides to be sure, and its all ways worked for me.

9th June 2010, 17:34

in 99% of cases a new arb end plate or refacing the end plate is a must!

if you have one that keeps coming loose take a look at the end plate where the m8 nut goes. i bet it has been worn by the plate moving agains the bolt. it wont nip up and grip an uneven surface...

10th June 2010, 21:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by MR_N

From experience i can say that every car ive worked on ive tightened the passenger side only. Unless they / i know that the arb has been removed from both end plates before. The end plates are on the arb very tight all your really doing is pulling the rear beam tight. It will take alot of force to detach it from the other end plate. There is no harm in doing both sides but i'm yet to experience any difference in doing both as opposed to just doing the passenger side.
When tightening it up, i undo the rubber grommet and wind in the appropriate size bolt with 3 big square spacers on it, then attach a spanner and a breaker bar (scaffold pole!). Then slowly do it up. It has to be very tight, but be careful not to snap the bolt or your in a world of trouble.

*TIP* - Are you experiencing a sound from the back end like two glass bottles knocking together?
Well try tightening the arb as described many times in this thread. However sometimes it will still persist. If this is the case, jack the car up and remove the wheel. You will see a 13mm (i think) bolt on the narrower end of the arb end plate. Remove this and coat in some copper grease.
Your trailing arm may drop a tiny amount when doing this, so its best to support it in the right position with another jack. This keeps it at the right height and reduces the chance of buggering the thread when undoing and refitting the bolt.
Then when refitting DON'T do up tight. Having this too tight can cause the sound by the arb end plate twisting on it. Do it up tight so it doesn't fall out but not over tight. Has cured this problem for alot of cars i work on. And now whenever i tighten up an arb i grease that bolt on both sides to be sure, and its all ways worked for me.

good stuff mate cheers. greased the bolts either side and it's quiet again now, nice one

to be honest aswell i don't think i used enough washers last time, so me winding the bolt was actually pushing rather than pulling - making it looser. so reassembled the bolt and socket using more washers and it's pulled it nice and tight now. sorted

10th June 2010, 21:38

Quote:

Originally Posted by chris_ph2

good stuff mate cheers. greased the bolts either side and it's quiet again now, nice one

to be honest aswell i don't think i used enough washers last time, so me winding the bolt was actually pushing rather than pulling - making it looser. so reassembled the bolt and socket using more washers and it's pulled it nice and tight now. sorted

Not a problem mate, thats what im here for. (i think im actually god)

13th June 2010, 15:04

iv got this problem now, its very annoying going to give the quide at the start of the thread a try

13th June 2010, 16:04

So thats what this noise is! Its been fooking me off for a while now, however my whole axle is being replaced soon so i guess theres no need to faff with it now. Mines also squeeking loads which isnt a good sign

Also if i remember the last time i looked the arb plate had snapped but remained on... is that somehow dangerous?

13th June 2010, 18:19

anyone near or wanting to come to grimsby i can sort this for you

14th June 2010, 17:21

Tried this today but an m8 bolt wont thread... sure its not an m7? Or do you have to give it some right beans when trying to thread it?

Not like it matters since the new axel is going on tomorrow anyway but it was really fooking me off earlier...

18th July 2010, 18:28

Quote:

Originally Posted by Phreaktwo

Tried this today but an m8 bolt wont thread... sure its not an m7? Or do you have to give it some right beans when trying to thread it?

Not like it matters since the new axel is going on tomorrow anyway but it was really fooking me off earlier...

i had the same problem as you had mate...tried to do it today with an M8 and just wouldn't screw onto the threads of the arb and when it did it went at an upwards angle and went real stiff...sure its an M8?

18th July 2010, 18:50

its defo an m8, i have retapped a few of them.

19th July 2010, 13:25

howcome an M8 dnt fit mine thn? lol

19th July 2010, 16:05

i had my rear beam reconditioned and had a 21mm torsion bar fitted and a 25.4mm anti-roll bar fitted, also powerflex rear beam mounts, but since i had that done its been making a noise when u go round corners hard, like two glass bottles knocking together, could this be the same as this as i just had it rebuilt at Spoox Motorsport and i would of thought they would of done it up tight enough! also it seems noisier when driving normally is that normall of uprated torsion bars, anti roll bars and powerflex mounts

19th July 2010, 19:48

i'm sure they'll have done it tight. if you're getting the dreaded noise though it needs to be tighter. do it mate. should sort it

19th July 2010, 20:05

so if it not tight enough and making a noise does that meen its not handling so well or is it just the noise.

19th July 2010, 21:29

Tighten the end plate bolts to being with - that should be enough to stop the noise.

20th July 2010, 20:24

Quote:

Originally Posted by mattevts

so if it not tight enough and making a noise does that meen its not handling so well or is it just the noise.

won't make any difference to the handling it's just an awful noise!

7th October 2010, 00:42

Just used to guide and it worked very pleased

Sorry on old thread revival...

11th November 2010, 15:32

Ive just been doing mine in the rain.

That noise was starting to do my head

20th November 2010, 13:03

Did mine could screw it in by hand at first so it was obviously loose. How tight do you do it? I didnt want to do it too much so just did it to a reasonable force

For the people who wanted to know lenghts of bolts this is what I found worked. gave a nice amount of thread to pull onto but didnt bottom out.

Halved the lenght with a socket nut and washers so it turned easily

tightened her up

Will take it for a drive later when it stops raining to see if its made an improvement. If not should I tighten it more or can you over tighten them?

Good info btw williamsvts

24th January 2011, 10:40

Quote:

Originally Posted by boz

the glass bottle noise is the arb loose in the beam. thats what you need to jack back towards the passenger side with the bolt. if you ensure there is a good amount of grease in, and you pull the arb as far as possible to the passenger side. there is no reason why it should come loose. min has been fine since i did it a while back. takes some time to pull the arb as far as possible.

if it bottle noises, its defo the arb

danny boy, i never had any bother with my magnex systems ;D sort your arb out, piece of piss

my mechanic followed the guide on here and the bottle noise has now been replaced with a thudding noise as if you are hitting a base drum, whats his next move?
thanks
andy

25th January 2011, 13:48

I presume once u undo that nut the plae will stay still???

28th January 2011, 07:32

Just hammer both ends at the same time. Put the ARB plate bolt in with some thread lock, nice and tight. Job done, no pinging knocks or bangs.

8th April 2011, 18:32

I've got a problem, was attempting to do this today and it seems the thread inside my ARB is fecked, soon as I started screwing the bolt in I could feel it wasn't right...so took it out and shining a torch inside there I can see the thread is coming away. How an earth can I fix this? :/ It seems with this car fixing a problem causes a new one

8th April 2011, 20:44

i have worked on a lot of saxo beams, ive seen a lot of the rear arb end plates come loose (even seen some end plates snap!) on the 13mm nut. this is often because there is play in the bearings allowing the arms to rock and wangle the bolts loose or wear the end plated so they can move with the movement in the bearings.

if you are confident the bearings are good then reface the end plates or buy new ones. use high ten bolts and murder them up tight to the point you think theyre going to snap!

9th April 2011, 14:12

I was on about the actual part where you put the bolt in the ARB and pull it out? the thread in the ARB has crumbled

As for the end plate, the bolts in mine seemed fine mate, the drivers side one wasn't fully agains the end plate although was tight, after snapping that, removing and replacing it with a new one both sides are now tight. I think my axle is okay as there is no camber to the wheels, and the wheels don't feel loose when jacked up, they have maybe 1mm of movement if trying to rock them and thats it.

17th April 2011, 15:11

Right so...

I went to do this to mine and I couldn't seem to get the rubber bit out on the end of the ARB.

I tried to use a flat head to prise it out but this started to pull bits off the rubber instead of popping it out.

The last thing I wanted was to destroy it because I have heard that water can get in and fubar the bearings on the axle?

Assuming I did have to destroy it to get the rubber bit out, can I just buy another one from Peugeot/Citroen?

Cheers

17th April 2011, 19:33

I'm getting seriously pissed off with this car now, I've spent all day going and buying bolts, taps, loctite etc...came home and set about retapping my ARBs thread as it was fucked....did this so proceeded to bolt up the bolt with washer and socket on etc, sheared the head off the bolt, did this 7 more times and sheared all those bolts(these were b nq bolts, could I do with high tensile bolts to pull it out further as its still about 4mm away from the end plate? or is that not my problem?...it seems to ARB doesn't wanna come any further but I still get the clanging noise....so I took the bolt out of the passenger end plate, smacked it with a lump hammer, applied some loctite and bolted back up, did the same on the other side...the only thing i've noticed on the drivers side end plate the hole for the bolt to go through is kinda elongated, could this be the problem as this is the side I thought the noise was coming from?

I also had a look at the exhaust as per my original thought, shifted about the rubber hangers etc...then took the car for a drive and its clanging more now, any ideas?

17th April 2011, 20:33

Weld the fukker

just a little spot that is easily ground off if need be won't move then

17th April 2011, 23:06

I'm not sure what exactly the problem is mate, and mandyslover said thats really not a good idea?

18th April 2011, 01:39

Quote:

Originally Posted by devilsadvocate

Right so...

I went to do this to mine and I couldn't seem to get the rubber bit out on the end of the ARB.

I tried to use a flat head to prise it out but this started to pull bits off the rubber instead of popping it out.

The last thing I wanted was to destroy it because I have heard that water can get in and fubar the bearings on the axle?

Assuming I did have to destroy it to get the rubber bit out, can I just buy another one from Peugeot/Citroen?

Cheers

the rubber bit screws out with a (t40 i think) torx bit
can probably get one from dealers or even scrap yards as all 106's/saxos have them. without it water will get in.

18th April 2011, 01:42

Quote:

Originally Posted by AL3X_

I'm getting seriously pissed off with this car now, I've spent all day going and buying bolts, taps, loctite etc...came home and set about retapping my ARBs thread as it was fucked....did this so proceeded to bolt up the bolt with washer and socket on etc, sheared the head off the bolt, did this 7 more times and sheared all those bolts(these were b nq bolts, could I do with high tensile bolts to pull it out further as its still about 4mm away from the end plate? or is that not my problem?...it seems to ARB doesn't wanna come any further but I still get the clanging noise....so I took the bolt out of the passenger end plate, smacked it with a lump hammer, applied some loctite and bolted back up, did the same on the other side...the only thing i've noticed on the drivers side end plate the hole for the bolt to go through is kinda elongated, could this be the problem as this is the side I thought the noise was coming from?

I also had a look at the exhaust as per my original thought, shifted about the rubber hangers etc...then took the car for a drive and its clanging more now, any ideas?

pm 'swampy' for some high tensile arb bolts. ive snapped normal bolts in there about 3 times now and each time took average 2 hours to remove lol high tensile bolt with a spring washer and a drop of loctite and its been fine. if you say the thread inside the arb is fooked, cant you retap it, or even buy a new antiroll bar?

18th April 2011, 10:53

I've retapped the thread mate,its when tightening the ARB that the bolts are snapping, so not sure if the arb is as far as should although its still about 4mm away from the end plate and the guide should be almost touching? The end plate bolts i have done up tight...although the drivers side one the hole for the bolt has elongated...meaning maybe i need a new end plate or get some high tensile bolts and do up really tight? If not i have no idea how to remove the end plate and change it? If none of these are the problem i really dunno what it could be, aside from the exhaust?

18th April 2011, 11:52

i think the drivers side end plate is attached to the antiroll bar

18th April 2011, 12:08

Mine starting to ping/thud noise as i go over (some) bumps, So all i need to do is tighten the bolts up?.

My car has been lowered 40mm on SPAX suspension

18th April 2011, 12:41

Seriously if anyone is thinking of doing this, don't just think i'll tighten that bolt up. These bolts are made of cheese the head will and i mean WILL come off, then you have to drill the thread out and re-tap which takes another 3 hours.

Take the bolt out, buy some high tension bolts from swampy or a diy shop even the new bolts from citroen the heads come straight off when tightening them, i think the torque is about 25nm.

Start in the morning incase you get any problems like re-tapping, it will take a while to get the hang of it if you've never done it before, and another bit of advice if the threads in there do not use an easy-out i snapped 2 easy-outs in there which are made from strong colbolt, it took fecking ages to get them back out, just drill them out straight away and retap the thread. Good luck.

18th April 2011, 12:58

Most people have been successful tho?

18th April 2011, 16:07

Quote:

Originally Posted by baker556

Seriously if anyone is thinking of doing this, don't just think i'll tighten that bolt up. These bolts are made of cheese the head will and i mean WILL come off, then you have to drill the thread out and re-tap which takes another 3 hours.

Take the bolt out, buy some high tension bolts from swampy or a diy shop even the new bolts from citroen the heads come straight off when tightening them, i think the torque is about 25nm.

Start in the morning incase you get any problems like re-tapping, it will take a while to get the hang of it if you've never done it before, and another bit of advice if the threads in there do not use an easy-out i snapped 2 easy-outs in there which are made from strong colbolt, it took fecking ages to get them back out, just drill them out straight away and retap the thread. Good luck.

+1 agree definately!

they snap so so easily and is such a ball ache tapping and drilling them out. i used an easy out the 1st time, but the 2nd and 3rd time it didnt work

a high stength bolt is definately needed

18th April 2011, 16:10

Quote:

Originally Posted by LSOfreak

+1 agree definately!

they snap so so easily and is such a ball ache tapping and drilling them out. i used an easy out the 1st time, but the 2nd and 3rd time it didnt work

a high stength bolt is definately needed

So you would suggest getting a better bolt and replacing the old one?

18th April 2011, 17:34

yes definately

18th April 2011, 19:59

Mines pinging, but i know if i try taking the bolt up let alone un-doing it, it will probably snap so just can't be bothered think im going to pm swampy now.

18th April 2011, 20:51

Its not just going to snap is it? just give it a go?

18th April 2011, 20:56

but be careful undoing it lol one of mine snapped just undoing it lol

18th April 2011, 21:15

If i go REALY slow you think i will be ok ha?

19th April 2011, 14:38

Heat it up first mate.

19th April 2011, 14:43

Quote:

Originally Posted by LSOfreak

i think the drivers side end plate is attached to the antiroll bar

As in it wont be possible to get a new one, i'm starting to think the noise maybe the exhaust, as yesterday before going anywhere in the car I had a mess about with the exhaust hangers and there position, took the car out and the noise had got a lot quieter and only does it on occasional bumps?

I'm gonna leave it for now and will mess with it again if the noise gets louder and more often again.

19th April 2011, 14:55

My car isnt going to fall apart if i leave it is it ha?

19th April 2011, 14:59

The end plate bolt? Whip the wheels off and have a look at them mate, if they look like theyre in tight they should be okay, apparently they can work themselves loose and cause this pinging noise, but when trying to tighten them up or remove them they can snap very easily.

19th April 2011, 15:00

Quote:

Originally Posted by AL3X_

The end plate bolt? Whip the wheels off and have a look at them mate, if they look like theyre in tight they should be okay, apparently they can work themselves loose and cause this pinging noise, but when trying to tighten them up or remove them they can snap very easily.

They ill take wheel off first and just check, Which one should i check first drivers side or passenger side?

19th April 2011, 20:17

Quote:

Originally Posted by AL3X_

As in it wont be possible to get a new one, i'm starting to think the noise maybe the exhaust, as yesterday before going anywhere in the car I had a mess about with the exhaust hangers and there position, took the car out and the noise had got a lot quieter and only does it on occasional bumps?

I'm gonna leave it for now and will mess with it again if the noise gets louder and more often again.

no as in the anti roll bar is in 2 pieces. the passenger side end plate & the rest of the anti roll bar (which is welded to the drivers side end plate)

even when the end plate bolt was tight on mine it still did the noise. i had to tighten the antiroll bar itself to solve it

21st April 2011, 23:22

Mines doing this ahhhh

how do you tighten the anti-roll bar? The 2 black plugs that screw into each end?

23rd April 2011, 11:46

Attempted this again today
Managed to get the rubber bit out (T40 Torx btw)

However the 13mm M8 bolt would not screw onto the thread
It gripped to start with but as soon as I started turning, it would pop off.

Guessing the thread inside is buggered, can't be arsed with it anymore
Will have to put up with the clanging noise!

23rd April 2011, 12:18

did this few days ago and squeaking has stopped! so happy now as it was doing my tits in!

23rd April 2011, 21:39

I tried to tighten the ARB again today, used a high tensile bolt and it sheared off, so i'm guessing the ARB is as far as it will go?

I then replaced the end plate bolts with high tensile ones and spring washers, took the car for a drive and the tinging noise was still there, but still only on really bumpy roads. After a bit tho it suddenly just started to ting/clang over every slight bump, was pissing me off so much but then again, it suddenly stopped. I cant decide if its to do with the ARB or the exhaust hitting something?

24th April 2011, 00:32

ive got this problem on my driverside so what side do i tighten up its a mk2 02 vtr

24th April 2011, 07:29

Take end plate bolts off, hit plates with a lump hammer, threadlock end plate bolts back in, done. Don't overtighten bolts as will strip thread from arm

24th April 2011, 17:42

right tryed to tighting the arb today a couple off turns put dont know how far to go with it does it have to be tight realy tight cos still getting that knocking noise.. thanks or its the driverside rear one thats knocking so do i go to passenger side and tighting from there

24th April 2011, 17:57

the anti roll bar is in 2 pieces
the passenger side end plate, and the rest of the antiroll bar which is welded to the drivers side end plate. both parts spline into each other. you can pull them closer together by doing whats done in this thread, and put a 70mm m8 bolt through the middle with some sockets and washers, and tighten up, or you can smack the end plates with a lump hammer to get them on as far as they will go.
Ofcourse after all this, tighten the end plates with some high tensile bolts & thread lock

24th April 2011, 19:30

is there any good peaple out there whos willing to come and help me or have a look at it for me who lives in the yorkshire area or lives near bridlington...

24th April 2011, 20:51

ill come by later

lol

25th April 2011, 00:07

are u trying to be a nob^^^^^

25th April 2011, 00:19

its one hell of a commute up to yorkshire, ofcourse im being a nob lol!

25th April 2011, 00:25

too right u are i said yorkshire or where i live and u come with some crap like that nob head

25th April 2011, 00:38

jesus christ take a joke

25th April 2011, 00:52

Can I weld the fukker solid.... Will it stop my clanging? I have put 3 bolts in now all tight and its still chitter fuckin chatting, is welding going to cause me any probs?

25th April 2011, 18:44

Quote:

Originally Posted by LSOfreak

jesus christ take a joke

LOL

14th July 2011, 14:30

Stumbled on this thread by googling my after myself and two mechanics have been scratching our heads as to what this noise could be. This seems like the only possible thing it could be, had the guy at the MOT testing station baffled as he said the car was sound underneath and the rattle was nothing obvious.

So I'm going to try and attempt this tonight. Been looking at these M8 bolts to screw into the ARB http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/nav.js...Type=hex_bolts are these the right length with the supplied washers?

While the wheels are off I may aswell replace the plate 13mm bolts with high tensile variants, where would I get these from as I can't find any on B&Q

24th July 2012, 14:16

How much would you need to tighten it? Im attempting mine now I'm guessing the large circle area on the end plate of that pic is where the bolt goes? I don't think my cars actually got a plug on the end as I jacked it up and can just see the thread inside already. Any help would be appreciated.

24th July 2012, 14:18

swampy on here sells the bolts

24th July 2012, 14:23

I've got a bolt and washers I already put it in there and it grabs the thread without bottoming out I'm just confused about the points on my previous post.

11th September 2013, 10:04

EPIC BUMP

Mines started making the "Bottles" noise.

Will this help?

I had an IMaxle refurb fitted a couple of months back and i can hear this noise over big bumps when going slow.

70mm M8 bolt with washers and spacer to bring the ARB out to the end, or do i just need to tighten up my end plate on the passenger side?

cheers

11th September 2013, 11:45

no harm in trying both pal

id recommend replacing the end bolts with high tensile ones before tightening though, they snap really easily

11th September 2013, 12:29

Ideas where to buy them?

Swampy still do them?

11th September 2013, 12:59

i got mine from swampy years ago

not sure if hes still about

11th September 2013, 17:08

Any idea where I could get some more?

11th September 2013, 18:22

should it be obvious if the plates are loose?

mine is clanging like fuck, and while i have looked briefly while doing various things, can say that i never noticed any movement in the end plates

11th September 2013, 23:14

no its not obvious at all

13th September 2013, 08:12

I checked the passenger side last night. The end plate was nice and tight, looks like IMaxle change the end plate bolts for better ones.

I opened the plastic bung on the ARB and there was a thread and i could put the screwdriver in about a third of the way. Should i be able to put anything in the hole? or shouldnt i?

Do i need to check drivers side?

13th September 2013, 08:50

remove the plasticplug and fit an 8mm bolt right through the plate into end of arb and pull it up tight .
if arb endp lates have been not located correctly for osmetime they move and wear the locating lip on the end plates and also inside the radius arm which can cause a creak --the next thing that happens is the 8mm bolts to radius arms snap

13th September 2013, 11:24

its a refurb rear beam, 3 or 4 months old!

Realy shouldnt be doing this should it?

13th September 2013, 18:39

What size bolt do I need for the arb?

14th September 2013, 20:50

m8

i had a check of mine today, no sign at all that either plates are moving on the outside, undid the bung, and tightened a bolt into it as much as i felt it could with out snapping the bolt. alternator is dead though so couldnt take it for a drive to check

one thing though, the passenger side end plate, had the bung in like i thought it should, although shouldnt the drivers side be the plate without the hole in, that the arb is welded to? as mine had a bung version plate both sides

19th September 2013, 16:33

For people that have done this could someone tell me.

Is it defo an m8 13mm bolt? They look too small in the shop...

19th September 2013, 16:41

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hazmanscoop

For people that have done this could someone tell me.

Is it defo an m8 13mm bolt? They look too small in the shop...

Yup - M8 x 1.25. As has been mentioned above, remove the plastic bung and screw an M8 bolt (slightly longer in length than the original end plate bolts) with a few washers on into the ARB. As you tighten it, you'll pull the ARB into the splines of the end plate.

Replace the plastic bung and make sure both end plate bolts are tight.

19th September 2013, 17:47

Thanks mate.

Couldn't find it! :/

19th September 2013, 20:22

8mm =13mm spanner size
6mm =10mm spanner size

20th September 2013, 16:59

I've just tried doing mine and it's decided to snap a manifold bolt.

Really can't be arsed with this like.

Anyone around the witney/Oxford area be able to do it for me?

I only had the beam fitted a few month back. Reckon the garage could do it for free?

22nd September 2013, 22:46

anyone know what plates to buy, does it matter if i have ones that have the access holes both sides? anything in particular to do when replacing them

22nd September 2013, 22:53

arb is different sizes both ends --the blank one is hammered on tight -so no need for bolt
If you find a very old ax one they did have holes in both end plates --or you could just drill it your self

23rd September 2013, 20:23

kl cheers, wonder if that could be the problem on mine then, my xsi has the hole in both sides, will place a an order some new ones tomorrow i think, last ditch effort before i splash out on a new beam. lol

26th September 2013, 08:58

Bump. Any idea how i can fix this?

Its threaded the zinc bolts from bnq and snapped a manifold stud :/

26th September 2013, 09:32

Just go to im axles. Not sure if you'll have to pay or not as you've tampered with it already