General rule is:
References:
VTS PARTS PDF
16V CONVERSION FORUMS
Use this rule for Engine, Looms, Driveshafts
I've used Colins how to guide as a skeleton:
http://www.saxperience.com/forum/showthread.php?t=84099
Tools you will need:
Engine crane
A LARGE selection of tools
A ball joint splitter
Electrical tools (just in case)
Trolley jack
Axle stands
A mechanical-ish brain!
A 16v will fit straight in most Saxo/106s no problems. Just get the 16v engine from the same year as your car and same ECU. There are 2 main types of ECU, a Single Plug and a 3 Plug.
I.E 1998 single plug 16v into a 1998 single plug VTR/1.1/1.4
BEFORE REMOVING YOUR ORIGINAL ENGINE
Didnt do that?
Then for £93 (85+POSTAGE) Blue Hawk Electronics will unlock your ECU to work with any key.
Details here:
http://www.bluehawkelectronics.co.uk/
I did my conversion over the span of a month. When you have your VTS/GTi engine, now is the best time to change and clean alot of the parts.
The conversion is really easy. You will need:
Engine
Gearbox
Unlocked ECU
Wiring Loom
VTS Lower rear engine mount
VTS transmission engine mount
NON-VTS/VTR Drivers side mount
VTS throttle cable
VTS exhaust manifold
Ideally you would also need:
VTS Radiator
Top Radiator hose (lower VTR hose you can cut to length)
VTS fan setup
Also:
New engine oil
New gearbox oil
Coolant
And also get anything else to perform a complete service.
First step is to remove your original engine.
Remove front bumper
Remove slam panel
Using an engine hoist, lift the car shell up via the rings at the front as shown below:
Undo the lower engine mount located next to the exhausts connection of the center section and the manifold.
Now the way i took my 1.1 out was then undoing the drivers side mount then supporting the transmission and undoing the passenger mount (under the battery).
As you undo that mount, the transmission will drop so bear that in mind.
Having the car on axle stands, lower the engine down with your hoist onto a wooden board.
(we let it drop and then skipped our lump)
let the engine sit on the floor.
Hoist the car back up, and drag your engine on the board out from beneath the car.
The VTS/GTi Lump
Now is the best time to upgrade your clutch regardless of its current condition as you'll see how much easier a clutch change out of the car is than in for the sake of £70 for a clutch.
Heres the one we took out and the new one:
Clutch changes are simple enough.
Clutch Change Overview
First remove all wiring around the Starter motor and transmission
(Get a picture so you know how YOUR wiring sits)
Now at this stage, I also painted my engine block and transmission black.
Remove your starter motor
-Two bolts on the block side
-one bolt from the transmission side
Remove Transmission
-4 bolts iirc on the transmission side
-1 bolt from just below the starter motor side
Dont pull it off just yet
there is a little metal plate with a small bolt holding it in place at the bottom of the flywheel from the block side at the front of the engine.
Remove that and it will drop out.
Pull out the transmission.
Un-do the six hex bolts to your clutch.
remove old clutch and pressure plate
Your engine will look something like this:
Clean up your transmission and re-fit:
Clutch and pressure plate in one piece with a clutch alignment tool to the flywheel.
Replace the bearing in your transmission side with new one in your clutch kit.
Re-fit transmission in reversal of removal taking care not to move the clutch lever as you fit it.
back to the VTS/GTi fitment
put straps around the engine and postition it next to the car:
You need to do some customising now.
Get your drivers side mount off of your 1.1 engine and remove the top drivers side mount from the VTS/GTi lump.
When its fitted it will look like thisL
(The mount in the picture to the right is the one we removed from the 16v engine)
You make the non 16v mount fit by removing the bolts from the 16v mount and cutting them down to size.
Cut them with a nut already on them so when you have them to size, undoing the nut, cleans the thread and checks it will fit correctly.
Bolt this to the engine ready to go in.
Make sure your car is all ready for you.
Fit the drivers side mount (non 16v one)
Fit the passenger side one too.
Leave the lower bottom mount on the 16v engine
Using the engine hoist, lift the car in the air like before.
Use axle stands to support the car incase anything gives.
having the engine on a board (we used an upturned pallet), drag the engine under the car when you have enough clearence.
lower the car onto axle stands.
use the engine hoist to drag the engine into position.
lift the engine up and onto the drivers side mount.
next jack up the engine into the passengers mount
Tighten nuts
your drivers side will now look like this:
(other than flat arches, another way to tell if your car wasnt an original 16valver)
Now that you have 2 of the 3 mounts in,
jack up the rear of the engine behind the sump.
You need to fit this baby:
(bolt to the right)
this fiddly bastard goes in with a wiggle of everything and a hammer.
There you go. fitted.
Now plug it all back in and you are ready to roll.
Back to colin:
Hope this helps people that were in the same situation as me.
Regards
Rem
Quote:
| same year. it will fit regardless. |
VTS PARTS PDF
16V CONVERSION FORUMS
Use this rule for Engine, Looms, Driveshafts
I've used Colins how to guide as a skeleton:
http://www.saxperience.com/forum/showthread.php?t=84099
Tools you will need:
Engine crane
A LARGE selection of tools
A ball joint splitter
Electrical tools (just in case)
Trolley jack
Axle stands
A mechanical-ish brain!
A 16v will fit straight in most Saxo/106s no problems. Just get the 16v engine from the same year as your car and same ECU. There are 2 main types of ECU, a Single Plug and a 3 Plug.
I.E 1998 single plug 16v into a 1998 single plug VTR/1.1/1.4
BEFORE REMOVING YOUR ORIGINAL ENGINE
Quote:
| Immobiliser, just simply start your engine and then pull your immobiliser out from under the fuse box and this unlocks the ECU and lets you use the 16v one which will need unlocking. I recommend Blue Hawk Electronics in Nottingham for unlocking the 16v ECU. Then shut your engine off, and then restart it to see if it’s worked! But if you have an after market immobiliser instead, then I believe this is not necessary, BUT do it anyway! |
Then for £93 (85+POSTAGE) Blue Hawk Electronics will unlock your ECU to work with any key.
Details here:
http://www.bluehawkelectronics.co.uk/
I did my conversion over the span of a month. When you have your VTS/GTi engine, now is the best time to change and clean alot of the parts.
The conversion is really easy. You will need:
Engine
Gearbox
Unlocked ECU
Wiring Loom
VTS Lower rear engine mount
VTS transmission engine mount
NON-VTS/VTR Drivers side mount
VTS throttle cable
VTS exhaust manifold
Ideally you would also need:
VTS Radiator
Top Radiator hose (lower VTR hose you can cut to length)
VTS fan setup
Also:
New engine oil
New gearbox oil
Coolant
And also get anything else to perform a complete service.
First step is to remove your original engine.
Remove front bumper
Remove slam panel
Using an engine hoist, lift the car shell up via the rings at the front as shown below:
Undo the lower engine mount located next to the exhausts connection of the center section and the manifold.
Now the way i took my 1.1 out was then undoing the drivers side mount then supporting the transmission and undoing the passenger mount (under the battery).
As you undo that mount, the transmission will drop so bear that in mind.
Having the car on axle stands, lower the engine down with your hoist onto a wooden board.
(we let it drop and then skipped our lump)
let the engine sit on the floor.
Hoist the car back up, and drag your engine on the board out from beneath the car.
The VTS/GTi Lump
Now is the best time to upgrade your clutch regardless of its current condition as you'll see how much easier a clutch change out of the car is than in for the sake of £70 for a clutch.
Heres the one we took out and the new one:
Clutch changes are simple enough.
Clutch Change Overview
First remove all wiring around the Starter motor and transmission
(Get a picture so you know how YOUR wiring sits)
Now at this stage, I also painted my engine block and transmission black.
Remove your starter motor
-Two bolts on the block side
-one bolt from the transmission side
Remove Transmission
-4 bolts iirc on the transmission side
-1 bolt from just below the starter motor side
Dont pull it off just yet
there is a little metal plate with a small bolt holding it in place at the bottom of the flywheel from the block side at the front of the engine.
Remove that and it will drop out.
Pull out the transmission.
Un-do the six hex bolts to your clutch.
remove old clutch and pressure plate
Your engine will look something like this:
Clean up your transmission and re-fit:
Clutch and pressure plate in one piece with a clutch alignment tool to the flywheel.
Replace the bearing in your transmission side with new one in your clutch kit.
Re-fit transmission in reversal of removal taking care not to move the clutch lever as you fit it.
back to the VTS/GTi fitment
put straps around the engine and postition it next to the car:
You need to do some customising now.
Get your drivers side mount off of your 1.1 engine and remove the top drivers side mount from the VTS/GTi lump.
When its fitted it will look like thisL
(The mount in the picture to the right is the one we removed from the 16v engine)
You make the non 16v mount fit by removing the bolts from the 16v mount and cutting them down to size.
Cut them with a nut already on them so when you have them to size, undoing the nut, cleans the thread and checks it will fit correctly.
Bolt this to the engine ready to go in.
Make sure your car is all ready for you.
Fit the drivers side mount (non 16v one)
Fit the passenger side one too.
Leave the lower bottom mount on the 16v engine
Using the engine hoist, lift the car in the air like before.
Use axle stands to support the car incase anything gives.
having the engine on a board (we used an upturned pallet), drag the engine under the car when you have enough clearence.
lower the car onto axle stands.
use the engine hoist to drag the engine into position.
lift the engine up and onto the drivers side mount.
next jack up the engine into the passengers mount
Tighten nuts
your drivers side will now look like this:
(other than flat arches, another way to tell if your car wasnt an original 16valver)
Now that you have 2 of the 3 mounts in,
jack up the rear of the engine behind the sump.
You need to fit this baby:
(bolt to the right)
this fiddly bastard goes in with a wiggle of everything and a hammer.
There you go. fitted.
Now plug it all back in and you are ready to roll.
Back to colin:
Quote:
| The car runs very hot with the VTR cooling setup so I would advise getting the VTS cooling setup. |
Quote:
|
For the fuel return, you can simply plug the hole with a screw and thread lock. But ideally you want to run a fuel return from the fuel rail back to the tank. And also use all the correct pipes and fuel pressure regulators. VTRs have an FPR on the tank. Simply do away with that FPR and plumb a line back to the tank/pump. There are different types of fuel tanks for the Saxo. Some already have a return facility plumbed in. Your best off finding out which one you have before you tackle the fuel return. It’s a simple job but very frustrating! And you have to think about it. Some Saxos run OK without a return, but from personal experience, mine does not run very well. So I plumbed in the return. Wiring is dead easy. Plug the main harness in that’s behind the nearside headlight and plug in all the other necessary items in like fuel pipes, gear linkages etc. All driveshafts from a VTR will definitely fit the VTS gearbox, although some have different splines than others and maybe ABS. But if you get the engine from the same year as your car, then there should not be any problems. |
Regards
Rem
great guide tho
,
