How To - Clean / Change idle air control valve (guide) and Basic bad idle guide

15th September 2008, 12:16

Still isnt a guide on this and gets asked like daily!

This dosent ALWAYS sort your bad idling out, it can be many other things, however this is a common problem, and this is a guide on cleaning it and replacing one

Tools needed:

T20
T30
Flat screw driver
Carb cleaner spray
and whatever your induction is connected on with or air box.

15min job

Haynes spanner rating out of 5:

(1 spanner that is btw)

1) Ok, i dont think its in the same place on ALL engines so this only applys if your throttle area looks like this:

2) start with taking your induction kit or housing off

3) Here is the idle control valve (ms paint production presents

or in this guide for early HT leaded black tops.
http://www.saxperience.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=220032

4) Switch the car on, get your carb cleaner spray and spray it into the top half of this pic, give it some revs and keep spraying. If this fails and dosent sort your idling out then get ya T30 and undo the 3 torx keys, to take the body off

5) the air that goes through the idle control valve is the top half of this pic in the body:

6) Here is the hole from the inside, once your throttle body is off. Try cleaning this area up with some carb cleaner, you can buy this from halfords for like £5, spray a load in there

7) Discconnect all the sensors and the throttle cable so its free. To take the idle control valve off, its easier to take the throttle position sensor off first, T20 on the 2 bolts there. then then idle control valve, again T20.

Throttle position sensor is the one to the left of the pic, and the ICV is the one set back to the right

8) Heres the badboy idle control valve, give it a good clean and the area it came from

Then Re-asemble in the reverse steps

Now take ya car for a good drive, over 8 miles.

If its still doing it, then it could be many other problems, mainly sensors. Maybe worth getting a diognostics done usually £20ish by a local garage or sumtimes for free, if they dont find any fualt.

Map sensor could be a problem, as it thinks there more or less air going in than there actually is, so the idle control valve changes in relation to the MAP sensors reading.

To narro this down, find where your MAP sensor is, now switch your car on, wait for it to idle high if it isnt already, now dissconnect the multi plug NOT the whole sensor from the unit, if the idle comes back down to about 800rpmish then it could be the MAP sensor, It will idle very rough, but around the 800rpm range. It will also over fuel without this sensor, so dont leave it off.

If your idle only happens when the car is cold, and comes back down when it warms up, then it could be the coolant temp sensor, giving a false readin, meaning its sending too much fuel in the engine, and needing more air to bang, so the idle control valve opens, ALL knock on chain reaction effect from one sensor!

Theres many threads on this so worth having a

Can be many other things though!

Hope this guide helps some poeple. Any improvments welcome, so just tell me

maybe add to the FAQ's?

MORE PICS CAN BE FOUND HERE: http://s244.photobucket.com/albums/g...saxp%20guides/

15th September 2008, 13:10

Thanks, Will give this a try tonight and hopefully will see results

15th September 2008, 13:38

the carb cleaner fucked my control valve

15th September 2008, 17:53

give it a try tonight too..

15th September 2008, 18:07

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steve_VTS

the carb cleaner fucked my control valve

Steve.. you let the cleaner all dry out/ run out before hoking up the wires, maybe its a short circuit?

15th September 2008, 18:33

good thread.. like it

15th September 2008, 19:19

Did this to our 1.1 runabout today and it seems to have worked a treat. I just used WD40 and an old rag... jobs a goodun.

Cheers for the guide - rep heading your way.

15th September 2008, 20:51

think ill give this a shot on mines aswell.

15th September 2008, 20:52

Also, You should turn the ignition 2 clicks then off 3 times so the icv can adjust itself.
Otherwise the engine would idle at 4k (atleast mine did

)

15th September 2008, 21:06

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alex

Also, You should turn the ignition 2 clicks then off 3 times so the icv can adjust itself.
Otherwise the engine would idle at 4k (atleast mine did

)

6 times on ignition without turning it on, then on 6th or 7th switch engine on.

also 8miles/5mins ish driving.

15th September 2008, 21:11

Strange... started mine up first time and it idled fine.

15th September 2008, 21:12

Quote:

Originally Posted by LeeumH

Strange... started mine up first time and it idled fine.

that after doing the guide?

16th September 2008, 10:48

Quote:

Originally Posted by db_sax

that after doing the guide?

Yes mate.

16th September 2008, 12:12

Quote:

Originally Posted by LeeumH

Yes mate.

good stuff!

wish it worked on mine lmfao.

Mine still does it, and has been after like 3 months got a new ICV and a new MAP sensor, changed my fuel filter yesterday and its been running REALLY well, maybe that had sumthing to do with it? Wasnt expecting it to!

16th September 2008, 12:17

Quote:

Originally Posted by dannyboy2005

Steve.. you let the cleaner all dry out/ run out before hoking up the wires, maybe its a short circuit?

just blatted it on the car lmao not bothered not really an issue for me.

16th September 2008, 18:41

So where is it on a MK1 VTR? in the throttle body?

16th September 2008, 18:42

Quote:

Originally Posted by LukeVTR

So where is it on a MK1 VTR? in the throttle body?

thats a mk1 westcoast, is it the same as yours? if it looks the same then it will be in the same place, or follow your throttle cable n that will lead u to it

16th September 2008, 18:49

This is what mine looks like:...doesnt really look the same as from the air pipe its like a metal piece then the throttle body.

17th September 2008, 12:46

my engine bay looks like the one posted above too. if someone could point out where it is on that pic it would be greatly appreciated

17th September 2008, 12:47

Quote:

Originally Posted by gezzalou

my engine bay looks like the one posted above too. if someone could point out where it is on that pic it would be greatly appreciated

if sumone can do that then il update the post at the top with a pic of it

17th September 2008, 12:58

what about a vts mate? as my idle is a little rough tbh

17th September 2008, 13:05

will, the ICV is in the same place as the car in the first post, on the right hand side of the inlet box, that ur air filter of and u can try cleaning it that way like it say in the first post.

hope that help

17th September 2008, 13:16

Quote:

Originally Posted by Saxo-Will

what about a vts mate? as my idle is a little rough tbh

should be where your air filter connects onto your throttle body i guess!

il get some pics of my mates vts engine so u know where they are on them aswell.

18th September 2008, 13:29

hi ive taken my idle valve out before should the end be wobbley or quite still iam thinking of getting a new one anyway.

18th September 2008, 13:32

Quote:

Originally Posted by gordy43

hi ive taken my idle valve out before should the end be wobbley or quite still iam thinking of getting a new one anyway.

my old one had like a sleeve on it, was very lose. so i got a new one.

18th September 2008, 18:09

ive just done this on my mk2 VTS, prity much the same guide just instead of 3 torx bolts i had allen key bolts, and the opening of the throttle body is a bit bigger.

was surprised how manky it was like but unfortunatly it never sorted out the jumpy idle ive got.

gonna try coilpack and compression test next.

18th September 2008, 18:12

Quote:

Originally Posted by AndySAXOK

will, the ICV is in the same place as the car in the first post, on the right hand side of the inlet box, that ur air filter of and u can try cleaning it that way like it say in the first post.

hope that help

cheers mate! will give it a go, as my idle is pretty dodgy at times

18th September 2008, 19:10

iam defo gonna change mine the idle is doin my head in ive gotta aprice of 70 + vat for the idle control valve is that about right

18th September 2008, 22:19

Quote:

Originally Posted by gordy43

iam defo gonna change mine the idle is doin my head in ive gotta aprice of 70 + vat for the idle control valve is that about right

thats bollox mate £30 for a brand new one off ebay! and u can fit it yourself within 10 mins with this guide!

19th September 2008, 09:00

ive seen them on ebay some one said there shit and i can never find a tr one only vts are they the same part

19th September 2008, 12:52

Does anyone have an answer of where the ICV is on LukeVTR's pic yet?

19th September 2008, 12:57

Quote:

Originally Posted by gordy43

ive seen them on ebay some one said there shit and i can never find a tr one only vts are they the same part

lmao, thats a load of rubbish, thats like saying the vtr alloys on ebay are shit... theyre exactly the same!

and theyre all the same mate, u can use one off any engine

19th September 2008, 19:09

nice one mate ill purchase one of ebay as soon as poss ill get some carb cleaner as well an clean everything cheers again

26th September 2008, 15:18

im going to have a go at this but just want to mention something first,

when my car does start it idols rough and by that i mean the engine shakes and as soon as i try and get the revs up by touching the accelerator it immediatly cuts out.
This is after the car kept cutting out as i was driving along and having erratic idoling problems.
i have changed the ecu to no evale but refuse to take it to the dealers as i know im going to get ripped off big time. the car wont even start at the moment but when it does i get the problem i first mentioned.

could this be a sensor or does this sound more serious than that? someone has suggested the breather pipes,fuel pump, fuel filter etc just wondered if anyone had an idea?

cheers in advance Aidy

26th September 2008, 15:33

Sounds exactly like mine, I cleaned the ICV in the week but it hasn't improved. I think I'll replace the ICV for a new one to see if that does anything. It's soo annoying.

Is your car starting but then immediately cutting out? Or will it not start at all? Give me a pm if you want.

I've already replaced spark plugs, coilpack, engine coolant sensor and fuel filter.

27th September 2008, 11:52

hey what ever you do dont take it shitreon i took myvtr cos of the idle prob they couldnt find anything wrong an told me it might be the icv but it will cost for more tests so i thought bollox to that ill just replace it my self whitch im gonna do so stay away from the dreaded dealers

27th September 2008, 12:10

thanks for the guide...need to try this on mine as mines got the same crappy problem!

27th September 2008, 12:11

should be made sticky this!

27th September 2008, 14:08

Quote:

Originally Posted by db_sax

lmao, thats a load of rubbish, thats like saying the vtr alloys on ebay are shit... theyre exactly the same!

and theyre all the same mate, u can use one off any engine

How do you mean off any engine? If you have a VTS you HAVE to use a VTS IAC valve. The reasons for which ill explain if you want.

I have had problems with the EBAY ones burning out quite quickly, in the end i bought new ones from the local motor factors, £60 odd i think, and there fine.

Quote:

Originally Posted by aidyp

im going to have a go at this but just want to mention something first,

when my car does start it idols rough and by that i mean the engine shakes and as soon as i try and get the revs up by touching the accelerator it immediatly cuts out.
This is after the car kept cutting out as i was driving along and having erratic idoling problems.
i have changed the ecu to no evale but refuse to take it to the dealers as i know im going to get ripped off big time. the car wont even start at the moment but when it does i get the problem i first mentioned.

could this be a sensor or does this sound more serious than that? someone has suggested the breather pipes,fuel pump, fuel filter etc just wondered if anyone had an idea?

cheers in advance Aidy

Sounds more serious than the Idle valve, as soon as you open the throttle the IDLE valve no longer controls the air intake, the throttle butterfly and TPS takes over, i would say your TPS is foobed or you may have a fueling problem.

By this i mean the ECU is not getting the correct signal from the TPS and your letting loads of air in by opening the throttle and the ECU is not injecting any extra fuel, hense it will cut out.

Quote:

Originally Posted by dynebaruk

Sounds exactly like mine, I cleaned the ICV in the week but it hasn't improved. I think I'll replace the ICV for a new one to see if that does anything. It's soo annoying.

Is your car starting but then immediately cutting out? Or will it not start at all? Give me a pm if you want.

I've already replaced spark plugs, coilpack, engine coolant sensor and fuel filter.

Same with you matey, people forget the rest of the sensors and jsut try the IAC, try a TPS, IAT etc.

Quote:

Originally Posted by gordy43

hey what ever you do dont take it shitreon i took myvtr cos of the idle prob they couldnt find anything wrong an told me it might be the icv but it will cost for more tests so i thought bollox to that ill just replace it my self whitch im gonna do so stay away from the dreaded dealers

Would never go to dealers, 99% of them are clueless and rely simply on a code reader.

Hope this little lot helps someone.

Ross
RCD.

29th October 2008, 17:05

1 more job for me

30th December 2008, 21:41

Bit of a bump lol, but were is it on a 1.1i 98 ??

Please anyone

30th December 2008, 22:15

2 screws here and theres 1 just under the acceleration cable bit.

30th December 2008, 22:24

Thanks a load

is it ok just take off and clean ??

30th December 2008, 22:36

Yea i did it earlier, mine was quite dirty.

30th December 2008, 22:40

Quote:

Originally Posted by TikkA

Yea i did it earlier, mine was quite dirty.

What did you clean it with ??

You made my day lol, ive been needing this answer for yonks

30th December 2008, 22:42

Carb cleaner, halfords 4.99

30th December 2008, 22:45

Quote:

Originally Posted by TikkA

Carb cleaner, halfords 4.99

Thanks

30th December 2008, 22:47

No problem mate

8th January 2009, 22:58

Any idea wher mine is ???

cheers

9th January 2009, 13:53

bump ?

9th January 2009, 14:06

sounds like i am busy this weekend doing my vts idle control valve , thanks sound advice

9th January 2009, 15:30

tsaxovtr,
In your photo its just out of shot top left on the throttle body mate, with the plug facing back towards drivers seat. Think on a mk1 VTR its just 2 torx screws and the plug.
I'm perhaps gunna get mine off soon and clean it before buying a new one.

12th January 2009, 23:19

i just cleaned mine with carb cleaner, and sprayed wd40 on the thing, didnt wipe dry, took it for a drive, seems fine, so i be expecting problems cause i didnt wipe dry ?

cheers guys

12th January 2009, 23:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by liamparker89

i just cleaned mine with carb cleaner, and sprayed wd40 on the thing, didnt wipe dry, took it for a drive, seems fine, so i be expecting problems cause i didnt wipe dry ?

cheers guys

If youve taken it for a drive and it seems fine, it should be ok, the air passing through has probabaly dried it up! or blown it thourhg into the engine lol.

12th January 2009, 23:59

ive been having seriously bad idling probs when the engines warm, hopefully this has fixed it

cheers all

25th January 2009, 23:56

I tried this today its been doing my head in for ages. Its worked a treat I used wd40 instead of carb cleaner tho. Also had to do the key clicking thing but after that jobs a good-en!

26th January 2009, 17:09

Does any one know where the MAP Sensor is on Tikkas Pic (Post #42)?

29th January 2009, 20:28

good thread m8, very handy, thanks

7th April 2009, 22:09

Sorry to bump and old thread but can someone please tell me where mine is? Its the same enigne as last posted but i've looked where you said and all i have is a little black box bolted to the engine. Is is located under the inlet manifold? On my throttle body i have 2 things screwed into it, one has 2 screws and the other only has 1 screw. The bit with 2 screws is a light colour where as the other is black. Trying to be as descriptive as possible. Heres a pic:

Number 1 - is the little black box on bolted to the car
Number 2 - The light colored thing attached to the throttle body with 2 screws
Number 3 - Just below number 2 out of sight is the black one with 1 screw
Number 4 - Is a thing attached the the underside of the inlet manifold someone told me about.

Anyone care to give me a number that i should clean out to stop my car stalling itself and sort its idle out

Thanks in advance

Sam

8th April 2009, 07:48

anybody?

8th April 2009, 07:52

try this mate!

http://www.saxperience.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=220032

8th April 2009, 08:07

Thanks mate, realy thanks. has helped loads. You going to fcs, i owe you a handshake lol. Only trouble is out of all the places it could be thats the fidllest to get to, oh well.

24th April 2009, 09:32

haha i will be at FCS mate, hopefully anyway depending if the cars running

6th May 2009, 21:40

was given a link to this because my air temp sensor needs cleaning but mine looks nothing like this. i have an east coast 1.1i

6th May 2009, 22:12

thanks for the info and pics very helpful much appreciated.

6th May 2009, 22:20

good guide mate

will be tryin this soon

7th July 2009, 17:39

did any1 ever get VTS pics

7th July 2009, 17:55

Im planning on taking mine to bits at the weekend so will get you some pics if you want

7th July 2009, 20:35

Quote:

Originally Posted by picklesayrshire

did any1 ever get VTS pics

its in the same place

26th July 2009, 22:27

Hello folks, new member here trying to get to bottom of strange problem with friends 1.0 saxo, t reg.

It hesitates a bit like it's rich, seems to idle higher warm than when cold, and has the occasional kangaroo fit. My friend, foolishly, took it to a citroen garage for diagnostic.. They billed him £69 to say diagnostic result is car needs new ecu, stepper motor, catalytic convertor, quoted £1536

thing is though, the engine light never even comes on. Car runs pretty well, jus seeming to need tune/service. Looked over it today a while, replaced earth terminal point that fastens to gearbox, cut it back and fitted new terminal, old one was well green. Removed and checked crank angle sensor.

Alsoi removed ICV shown in reply 42 but it doesnt seem like the other ICV, doesnt actually 'interact' with the throttle body, jus fastens to it. Nothing to clean. Backed out the throttle stop screw a couple of turns, seemed to idle lower. Tomorrow i will look at the TPS.

Any pointers as to anything else? May got to citroen garage and ask what codes the ecu was putting out. Smell a rat. Mates chinese with reasonable english, not good enough to tel me what they told him though! Feels like an attempted stich up.

26th July 2009, 22:34

Quote:

Originally Posted by seems

Hello folks, new member here trying to get to bottom of strange problem with friends 1.0 saxo, t reg.

It hesitates a bit like it's rich, seems to idle higher warm than when cold, and has the occasional kangaroo fit. My friend, foolishly, took it to a citroen garage for diagnostic.. They billed him £69 to say diagnostic result is car needs new ecu, stepper motor, catalytic convertor, quoted £1536

thing is though, the engine light never even comes on. Car runs pretty well, jus seeming to need tune/service. Looked over it today a while, replaced earth terminal point that fastens to gearbox, cut it back and fitted new terminal, old one was well green. Removed and checked crank angle sensor.

Alsoi removed ICV shown in reply 42 but it doesnt seem like the other ICV, doesnt actually 'interact' with the throttle body, jus fastens to it. Nothing to clean. Backed out the throttle stop screw a couple of turns, seemed to idle lower. Tomorrow i will look at the TPS.

Any pointers as to anything else? May got to citroen garage and ask what codes the ecu was putting out. Smell a rat. Mates chinese with reasonable english, not good enough to tel me what they told him though! Feels like an attempted stich up.

The bit that ive highlighted usually indicates the coolant temp sensor, when its idling high try unplugging it. If it idles lower then its likley to be that. It would be fualty telling the ECU its colder than it really is, when the engines cold it fuels more, therefor injecting more fuel and having to open the idle control vavle to allow more air to go with the fuel being injected, theres your high idle.

Just get another unlocked ECU (unplug your immobilisor - have a search, there will be a guide on this), buy a cat for £40, and the stepper motor being about £114 from Citroen parts.

27th August 2009, 22:57

sweet guide

will this work on a 1.1 eastcoast? it keeps cutting out sometimes after start up

thanks

29th August 2009, 10:11

Give your car a good rev with no flter on?! Greeeeat idea!

31st December 2009, 03:17

Will you post a guide up for a 1.1 engine bay very good guide but I'm having trouble locating my valve as its not visible and I don't want to disconnect the wrong thing

30th April 2010, 13:05

I've just done this on my Rallye, now it's bouncing it's tits off 4k on start up, then drops to 1500-2000k.....w00t!?!

I did the 6 times thing, and i've drove it around for 5, no improvement

27th June 2010, 18:35

Yea i juat tried this and it now idles around 1.5-2k instead of erratically

also holds revs when you dip the clutch driving along

?

7th September 2010, 14:12

hi, great guide btw

i just did it to my 1.1 106 because it was idling too low when cold before (bouncing between 500-800rpm).

Now it starts perfect every time but once youve touched the accelerator it wont settle back down to idle, it just keeps bouncing between 1.5-2k.

please help, its fuwked, my mate whos a mechanic cant even work it out and im not paying 60 quid for a shitty diagnostic lol. all ive done is had the throttle body off and cleaned the iscv.

21st December 2010, 15:15

nicethread

21st December 2010, 17:57

needs to be sticky. another helpful thread mate!

21st December 2010, 18:19

great guide mate

5th January 2011, 22:19

Very good guide but can someone get the pics back up for the mk1 Black top engine guide because they`ve been deleted.

Steve.

6th February 2011, 01:12

Thanks for this guide, just saved me £60

which the local garage were going to charge me for a new ICV !

21st February 2011, 17:05

it really is an easy guide to follow, even my little sister can do it lol

21st February 2011, 17:56

Quote:

Originally Posted by leeham987

it really is an easy guide to follow, even my little sister can do it lol

Any chance of more pictures please? I mean of the ICV guide being followed with pictures to help other members, not of your sister.

21st February 2011, 17:58

Quote:

Originally Posted by darael

Any chance of more pictures please? I mean of the ICV guide being followed with pictures to help other members, not of your sister.

should hope not, shes 13 lol tbh the guide already posted is fairly simple to follow already.

21st February 2011, 18:19

Quote:

Originally Posted by leeham987

should hope not, shes 13 lol tbh the guide already posted is fairly simple to follow already.

lol, oops!

A few of the pictures I need for my MK1 are missing - was hoping you might have took some.

1st March 2011, 19:16

Can anybody find the ICV using the below picture, of my own engine?

12th March 2011, 09:37

About to give this a go shortly - is it a case of spraying plenty of carb cleaner into the air intake and clean the ICV? Is it safe to spray carb cleaner all over the ICV, then wipe off the excess?

12th March 2011, 10:59

Quote:

Originally Posted by darael

About to give this a go shortly - is it a case of spraying plenty of carb cleaner into the air intake and clean the ICV? Is it safe to spray carb cleaner all over the ICV, then wipe off the excess?

yes whilst applying revs to pull the carb cleaner through. it is better though if you can completely remove the ICV and give it a proper clean. but try spraying it through 1st.

12th March 2011, 11:10

Had a carry on trying to remove the ICV, but will see a mate who has better tools later.

I tried removing the plastic part between the air filter and the ICV, but it looked nothing like in the pictures, so I replaced it with nothing done. I took the ribbed plastic tube that comes off the radiator, and sprayed a bit into there - the car chugged and nearly stalled, then resumed normal idling.

Drove round the block, and the revs are still sticking.

22nd March 2011, 14:06

removing and cleaning the isv is an easy job todo.

i did this the other day.

thanks

for the guide

23rd March 2011, 03:27

the stepper motor as i think its called is easy to remove on my 1.1 spi, but am i supposed to dismantle it to clean it?? i thought i was going to break it. (i break everything

)

23rd March 2011, 04:01

Quote:

Originally Posted by kennym1987

the stepper motor as i think its called is easy to remove on my 1.1 spi, but am i supposed to dismantle it to clean it?? i thought i was going to break it. (i break everything

)

No just take it off and give it a quick spray of wd40 or just give it a wipe with a clean cloth, can use carb cleaner if youve got some.

23rd March 2011, 04:17

forgive me for being sounding stupid, but i dont understand how that makes it work better. i have taken it off and cleaned it up but cant see how that will make a difference

23rd April 2011, 14:46

Just cleaned mine

great GUIDE

4th June 2011, 09:58

Quote:

Originally Posted by OllieVTS

Yea i juat tried this and it now idles around 1.5-2k instead of erratically

also holds revs when you dip the clutch driving along

?

i have the same problem, any ideas?

4th June 2011, 10:17

Quote:

Originally Posted by kennym1987

forgive me for being sounding stupid, but i dont understand how that makes it work better. i have taken it off and cleaned it up but cant see how that will make a difference

Because it could be dirty preventing it from moving fully.

Quote:

Originally Posted by tman

i have the same problem, any ideas?

Coolent temp sensor, lambda, map, air leak. Worth checking them

17th June 2011, 08:21

Very informative post on how to clean Idle Control Motor. Thanks for the information!

You can also can use alcohol technique though there are really more operations that can be used to clean the device.

17th June 2011, 11:53

Hmm i think i might need to do this.. lastnight my car started revving on its own while on the clutch at lights or in neutral, it also kangaroo'd round a rounabout like i was pressing the throttle on and off, and the revs stuck at some points meaning it drove itself..

You reckon this is the icv? Cheers

18th June 2011, 16:19

Quote:

Originally Posted by m11ler

Hmm i think i might need to do this.. lastnight my car started revving on its own while on the clutch at lights or in neutral, it also kangaroo'd round a rounabout like i was pressing the throttle on and off, and the revs stuck at some points meaning it drove itself..

You reckon this is the icv? Cheers

sounds like it buddy, doesnt take long to do and very simple wont do it any harm

24th August 2011, 18:47

I noticed some people have used WD40, What is best?

Can I use WD40 or GT85 or does it have to be carb cleaner, but isnt carb cleaner the same as Electrical Contact Cleaner?

Im going to do this on a VTS this bank holiday, any tips would be great, looks fairly easy just what spray willdo the job?

26th February 2012, 18:12

Quote:

Originally Posted by TikkA

2 screws here and theres 1 just under the acceleration cable bit.

can some one help me plz...i have a saxo 1.1i year 2000,, i have checked idle control valve,,it is clean!!!!!!!!!do i have an air flow meter on my saxo,,if yes,where is it located,,,i keep stalling at stop signs and red lights,,and it is very annoying,,,could it be my spark plugs??? HMMMMMM,,, I RECENTLY HAD A THE HEAD GASGET CHANGED BCAUSE IT WAS BLOWN... thnx in advance all

5th July 2012, 15:55

my saxo wont idle. we unplugged the battery to reset ecu and not it wont run unless i have my foot on the throttle. whats happened? it was cutting out intermitently before and i just want it fixed!!!

8th September 2012, 13:55

Hey i dont think its my idle control air sensor but the other plug sits on a metal bit thats sticks out well mine has snapped off the two bits that the bolts hold it on too if that makes sense so it doesnt sit on the metal bit sticking out any ideas where i can get a new one from?

16th December 2012, 17:48

Great guide, easy job to do. Shame my car is still running like crap but now im 99% sure its not the ICV as ive tried 2 nice clean ones and the problem remains : (

19th January 2013, 15:48

If when i rev my car and it takes a good few seconds to rev back down to idle; dies that spell icv or something else? MK2 VTR btw

25th January 2013, 00:40

great guide! mines a 1.1 and ICV is in the same place just to let ppl know. but yet again great guide, well done

11th February 2013, 21:25

bookmarked for the weekend

9th October 2016, 16:48

Going to try this for my idle problems I now got. Think this thread needs a sticky and some updates doing to it.