GUIDE: Fitting a rev counter into a mk1 1.0/1.1

  1. #1
    As some models of mk1 1.0 and 1.1 don't have a rev counter this can prove pretty annoying. I have the solution though, its quite easy too . I don't have any picture but look at the wiring diagram at the bottom of the page and will explain a step by step guide on how to do it.

    1) First of all, you can either buy an aftermarket tachometer that can be placed anywhere you like. Option 2 is to buy some new dials (mine cost £20 from ebay) from a mk1 saxo. Think mine was from a 1.1sx as it doesn't have a temperature gage but just a light (basically its exactly the same as your original dials but it has a rev counter instead of the massive clock).

    Guide for replacing Dials
    - (scroll down for aftermarket Tachometer)

    2) Unplug your battery and wait around 20-30 mins so the airbag can be removed (the airbag may go off if you do it straight away as it holds a charge).

    3) Remove the steering wheel by this guide by Mark51 (great guide) http://www.saxperience.com/forum/sho...38#post2466438.

    4) You will now see 5 plugs on the back of your dials, from left to right - green, blue, white, yellow and brown. You only need to unplug the yellow plug.

    5) Now, with around 2-3m lenth of wire, feed this through the grommet under the passenger side dash. This can be found here under the dash, its a black rubber grommet than can be quite hard to remove (use a flat head screw driver and prise it out). If you use a torch you will easily see it.

    6) Feed the wire through and then you will now see this wire in the engine bay (at the back of the bay on your right side). Pull through enough wire so it can be routed around the engine bay to your ECU.

    7) With the battery still disconnected, you will see a silver clip keeping the ECU plug in place. Flick this from where it is towards the back of the car. Now it should become loose but you have to pull it out from back of the engine bay first as there are 'hooks' holding it in place at the front. Also, undo the wrap on the wiring so you can push the black housing up to gain access to the wires in Step 8!!

    8) You will now see a small screw on the right side of the plug at the front, undo this and push a nail through the whole. The brown connection of the plug should now prise out and you will see the wires. Your looking for a bright green wire (there are a few) but your after the one that connects to PIN 6 (you can see the numbers on the brown connection block that the wires are connected into).

    9) Locate PIN 6 and check the wire has number 425 on it. Now, cut this wire and strip each side. You can either use a connection block but I found it hard to put the ECU plug back together with this OR you can solder the 3 wires (solder the wire you put through into the engine bay to the cut green wires). I twisted them together first as its easier. Tape this all up now and push the brown connection block into the black casing. Took me a while to get how it works but I got it - just look at the housing first as one side of the brown block needs to go in before the other).

    10) Put the screw back in and this is job done. Connect the ECU plug back to the ECU itself, and clip it black in with the silver clip.

    11) You now need to go inside the car and feed the wire you've wired to the ECU behind the dash, I just fed mine to the steering column then up behind the dials (or to aftermarket tachometer).

    12) Disconnect the yellow plug from the dials (second from right). You will see each PIN is numbered on this too (1-8). Splice into the brown wire connected to PIN 1 . I used a connector block for this, strip both sides of the cut brown wire and twist the wire coming from the ECU into one of the sides. Connect this to a connector block and remember to put the other end of the brown wire into this.

    13) Put everything back in (dials, dial surround, indicator pannel, steering wheel, airbag etc.

    14) Connect battery again and start the engine. You should now see the revs working.

    15) Tidy up the wire in the engine bay and make sure its not touching anything that gets hot.

    Aftermarket Tacho


    Do steps: 2, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 14 and 15.

    Obviously just wire it to the tachometer if your not fitting complete dials.

    Job done!!! . This is a very detailed guide and no where near as complicated as it looks, took me around 30 minutes to do (but i'm a pro in removing my dials lmao!).

    Wiring diagram for reference:
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  2. #2
    pics of aftermarket tacho?
  3. #3
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by aterro View Post
    pics of aftermarket tacho?
    Something like this although this has a shift light. I'd prefer the normal dials tbh, looks a lot better!
    1 user thanked this post:
  4. #4
    This is amazing. Cheers

    I now have life..
    2 users thanked this post: ,
  5. #5
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by gsavill90 View Post
    This is amazing. Cheers

    I now have life..
    Woooo get in!!! It worked for you too - this guide is fool proof . Easy wasn't it bud!
  6. #6
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Harv View Post
    Woooo get in!!! It worked for you too - this guide is fool proof . Easy wasn't it bud!
    I would rep you more but i cant
  7. #7
    EDIT: never mind just read your reply to my thread! ill have a go! cheers!
  8. #8
    RIGHT! THIS GUIDE IS RUBBISH!
    haha no its not, but iv run into a snag. Can't get the bloody ECU plug out. The whole putting the nail in the hole thing has stumped me and i cant get it off its clips.

    Here's a pic just to show you what i mean if you dont already know...



    ^thats not my hand haha

    Also im checking this is the grommit your talking about yeah?


    Any chance you could get a picture up of your ECU with the new wire in it, so i know what im aiming for.

    So any help with that would be super!
    Cheers mate
  9. #9
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Sneakydevil89 View Post
    If you've got the metal clip loose then great.. If not i think the bottom end of it, that's clipped into the actual ECU unit needs to be pushed towards the bulkhead.. Then it should pivot around a little clip at the front end of the ECU unit. If you pull it right round on this clip it will eventually lift free. Then with it unplugged you need to take off the rubber bit that seals the wires in.. and under there are two screws. Undo them, then undo the other screw.. push a nail through and it should work.
    Sorry if that was just a big disorganised mess... maybe someone else can put it better
  10. #10
    a little bit of a mess lol but i appreciate the help. I probably wont get a chance to do this today, but i like to know what im doing before i start.

    wait...just to check, you push the nail through after you've disconnected the plug?
  11. #11
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Sneakydevil89 View Post
    a little bit of a mess lol but i appreciate the help. I probably wont get a chance to do this today, but i like to know what im doing before i start.

    wait...just to check, you push the nail through after you've disconnected the plug?
    yes. First you need to remove the plug from the socket. Then you need to take the plug apart. This is done by removing that screw and pushing a nail through it.
    You may be finding it difficult to take the plug out because you've already taken out the screw which holds it together.. i dunno.
  12. #12
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by gsavill90 View Post
    yes. First you need to remove the plug from the socket. Then you need to take the plug apart. This is done by removing that screw and pushing a nail through it.
    You may be finding it difficult to take the plug out because you've already taken out the screw which holds it together.. i dunno.
    yeah that is a possibility, well ill give it a go later on when i get the car back frmo my girlfriends anyway and report back!
  13. #13
    finsihed fitting my rev counter today and for the record this guide is simply amazing!
    top work yet again
  14. #14
    this doesnt work for me ,what am i doing wrong ?

    im trying to use an aftermarket tachometer?
  15. #15
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by james2oo8 View Post
    this doesnt work for me ,what am i doing wrong ?

    im trying to use an aftermarket tachometer?
    Maybe the pinouts for the 106 ECU is different. I know the SPI 1.1 engine ECU is different to the 1.1 MPI ECU... i dunno.
  16. #16
    Hmm ok. Mines an Spi. 1.1?
  17. #17
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by james2oo8 View Post
    Hmm ok. Mines an Spi. 1.1?
    I dunno then..
    If you've found a green wire with the number 425 on it coming from pin 6 in the ECU then the problem must be somewhere other than the signal..
  18. #18
    hmm you rekon so?

    well we was doing it on my mates, but both the same engine and car basicaly

    was definatley green wire with 425 on it tho
  19. #19
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by james2oo8 View Post
    hmm you rekon so?

    well we was doing it on my mates, but both the same engine and car basicaly

    was definatley green wire with 425 on it tho
    It should work.. It's probably a wiring problem somewhere else.
    I've got no experience with aftermarket tachos.. so i don't really know what you'd have to do. You've got the right feed wire though.. and that's the tricky bit
  20. #20
    what u rekon the earth or something?

    but surely if it was that then the thing wouldnt light up or do anything?
  21. #21
    iv just wired in my after market techno mate, does yours have a green,red,black wires coming from the gauge then another 2black and red wires?


    if so pm me mate and il show you how
  22. #22
    Brilliant guide mate.. The big clock is gone! I've had new dials sitting around ages, just didnt know how to make them work.
  23. #23
    excellent guide ive had some clocks in the garage for ages, gonna give this ago tomorrow
  24. #24
    Excellent guide mate so many people will apreciate this! Shame rep system has gone
  25. #25
    im going to test it out tomorrow hopefully,

    would a set of mk1 vtr clocks work?

    CHeers
    Trevor
  26. #26
    ok i fitted my new clocks today found it really easy thanks to this guide
    and the rev counter works great..

    the only two problem's I've got now is that my fuel gauge is now all over the place when i drive??(when i accelerate the fuel gauge goes all the way to empty then when i brake it goes to nearly full) but when im idling the fuel gauge acts normal and shows how much fuel i have..

    also i have lost all of my back lights on the clocks I've checked to see if the bulbs have blown and replaced the one's that did and checked and cleaned all the contacts but still no luck

    any suggestions I've checked everything i can think of.
  27. #27
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by TrevorRS View Post
    im going to test it out tomorrow hopefully,

    would a set of mk1 vtr clocks work?

    CHeers
    Trevor

    hi i think they should work just make sure you get the same age clocks as your car.
    Because some clocks have five plugs around the top and the others only have two plugs at the back of the clocks..
    Hope this helps
  28. #28
    great guide. gonna fit my dials tomorrow
  29. #29
    wiked guide mate i will have ago at this when i get some money + time together.
  30. #30
    would this work for a '99 open scandal because im sure they are mk2? and would vtr dials work or will it show the wrong speed so i could be doin 30 when i think im doin 50 !
  31. #31
    not matter lol just gonna buy the full vtr clocks!
  32. #32
    just wondering if it would be the same on mk1 vts cheers Gaz
  33. #33
    How did you go about fitting the digital clock, don't it need a constent power supply to make it work? Or is the power supply from the power to the LED lights?

    On the otherhand, Dose the temp gauge work?

    A quick reply would be excelent.

    Ta!
  34. #34
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by dannyboy2005 View Post
    How did you go about fitting the digital clock, don't it need a constent power supply to make it work? Or is the power supply from the power to the LED lights?

    On the otherhand, Dose the temp gauge work?

    A quick reply would be excelent.

    Ta!
    Nah just plug it in and it works dude, I guess it must have a power supply but a very small one at that.
    I don't have a temp gauge on mine, I just used some dials out of another 1.1 that had a rev counter but no temp gauge. I doubt it would work and would need to wire it up like I did with the rev counter .
  35. #35
    My guess is the clock runs off the led's behind that light up when you turn the lights on as they always have a constent supply of power.

    Oh man.. never knew the new 1.1 had a no temp gauge although i knew about the rev counter.

    Thanks
    Dan
  36. #36
    my 1.1 has the rev guage, but i want the temp guage lol , i would rather see it going in to the red than a big light saying dickhead you have fucked it now... lol

    kieran.
  37. #37
    Going to do this in the morning!

    Took speedo dial off, and putting it on my current Tacho (So don't need to dock the milage so i can say its a clean car now)

    You say the clocks have 5 plugs, green, blue, white, yellow and brown. I believe that Saxo's have the FULL wiring loom behind the clocks and just put in basic clocks for basic models (like 106's) so why didn't you just plug the yellow plug into the new clocks? If that wasn't possible, i can understand wiring up to the ECU but what thickness of wire? Same thickness as the ones on the clcoks i'm assuming?

    Thanks
    Dan
  38. #38
    Bumpage
  39. #39
    SUPER

    I NOW PWN A REV COUNTER.

    I USED SPEAKER CABLE, AND PUT A HOLE IN THE EDGE OF THE RCU HOUSING FOR THE CABLE TO POP THROUGH.

    ONLY COST ME £7 FOR THE CLOCKS AND 50P FOR THE WIRE.

    NOW, FANCY GETTING THE TEMP GAUGE WORKING FOR ME

    Thanks!
  40. #40
    Hiya mate. I got a MK1 saxo eastcoast and wanna put VTR dials in (temp gauge and rev counter). Is this the same guide for that? please PM me back thanks
  41. #41
    hi, can anyone help me. i cant find any wire with 425 on it coming form the ecu but i have found a green wire coming from pin 6 saying 426. is this the wire i need to tap into?
    thanks
  42. #42
    amazin thred just a 1 thing lol i didnt have to take the sterin wheel off ...
  43. #43
    great guide worked for me but does anyone no how to wire up the temperature gauge??????
  44. #44
    Hi there,
    I have a 1998 saxo x 1.1i, myn does not have a rev counter and i was wondering if i purchased a dial from http://www.visual-performance.co.uk/ would it work??? And would you think a local garage wud fit it for me or wud i have to do it my self ha

    Thanks in advanced
  45. #45
    sorry too bump this topic but is there anyone from bristol that could help me do this as im a little unsure ?
  46. #46
    i must be a fool! it hasnt worked for me and i check again and again and again
  47. #47
    ahhh, mabey not it, it works now very good guide! thanks buddy
  48. #48
    Awesome, I've got clocks from another 1.1 that looks same except with revometer and not the clock. Do I need the wiring loom for new one or will the above steps work exactly without buying anything additonal on top of the new clocks?
  49. #49
    i know this may be lazy.
    i am located in southampton would anyone who knows how to do this be willing to earn some money in helping me do this.
    Pm me?
    Thanks Ross.
  50. #50
    i have fitted a new dial kit to my saxo,
    unfortuantly the temp guage and the rev counter do not work,
    if anyone has done this before and lives in southampton area, would you be up for helping me out and earning some dollar possibly?

    i know this may seem cheecky but this is an area i have not yet covered and dont really want to mess things up
    Thanks.
  51. #51
    Does anyone know what wires to splice on a vts engine loom to make my temperature gauge and oil pressure gauge work? I have an 1.1 interier loom. I cant find information anywhere and am struggling with haynes manual diagrams
  52. #52
    awesome guide,wired my rev counter in today and all working perfectly
    liiks so much better than the old big clock
  53. #53
    Please help me.
    Sorry for my english.
    I bought rev counter (orginal dials from saxo) and i fitted in my car.
    I does everythng like this guide.
    Speedometer and fuel gauge work but rev counter not.
    Where is problem? Maybe dials is broken?
    or pulse generator?
  54. #54
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Pacyn View Post
    Please help me.
    Sorry for my english.
    I bought rev counter (orginal dials from saxo) and i fitted in my car.
    I does everythng like this guide.
    Speedometer and fuel gauge work but rev counter not.
    Where is problem? Maybe dials is broken?
    or pulse generator?
    what year car do you have mate. what model etc???
  55. #55
    I have saxo 1.1 mk1
    I check wire from dials (pin1) with "electric meter??"
    When engine is off electric meter show 11.80 V
    when turn on engine show 8,80v
    But when i press on accelerator nothing happen. still show ,8.80V

    Where is problem?
  56. #56
    Saxo is from 1997.

    engine off but power is on.



    engine on

  57. #57
    Sorry for multiposting but i dont see "edit" option.

    OK so i read about my problem on this forum and i found this:
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by MartinObviously View Post
    Tachometer is driven direct from the sensor on gearbox

    on early petrol models, The ECU only "sees" the signal, it doesn't output to the cluster.

    If my memory is correct
    I this true?
    I have saxo from 1997r 1.1i with bosh ECU.

    Can i change ECU from newest saxo? or can i take singal direcly from sensor?