Oil advice and recommendations here

3rd March 2006, 15:37

As the title says this is the place for all oil related questions and hopefully over time it will build into a FAQ or reference point for others.

So, put your oil questions here but please give the following information if you would like a recommendation:

Make
Model
Year
Engine size/type

Any mods

Type of use (road/track)

Additional info (max oil temps, current oil used)

What do you want a recommendation for? Engine, Gearbox etc?

I hope this will help and become a useful thread

Regards
Simon

3rd March 2006, 16:10

perfect glad you returned to saxp

Citroen Saxo
VTS
02 plate
1.6 16v

Mostly motorway miles though expecting a few track uses this year

I need engine oil and would like gearbox oil recommendation to

Cheers

3rd March 2006, 16:28

Citroen Saxo
VTS
02 Plate
1.6 16V

Induction Kit, Full Exhaust.
(Thinking about Cams & a Re-Map Soon)
Short Journeys to work everyday!
Im doing a few Santa Pod trips this year and also one or two track days!

Ideally i need a fast Road oil, But also something which will cover and protect my car on a day to day basis!

I think im using 5w 40 at the moment!

3rd March 2006, 17:06

saxo
vtr
51 plate
1600cc 8v

4-1 manifold, decat, bmc filter

road and track and quater mile

gerbox and engine

cheers paul

3rd March 2006, 21:09

saxo vts
1.6 16v

3rd March 2006, 21:10

sorry its a 1998 s reg

4th March 2006, 05:16

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scott

perfect glad you returned to saxp

Citroen Saxo
VTS
02 plate
1.6 16v

Mostly motorway miles though expecting a few track uses this year

I need engine oil and would like gearbox oil recommendation to

Cheers

Trackdays change the parameters as they are classified outside of the oil envelope for a stock recommendation, just like modded cars.

I would recommend Silkolene PRO S 5w-40 and Silkolene Silktran Syn 5 as the diff is fed from the gearbox

Check out the prices on my website as I have a sale on for 1 week in my Members Area.

Cheers
Simon

4th March 2006, 05:18

Quote:

Originally Posted by starkie

Citroen Saxo
VTS
02 Plate
1.6 16V

Induction Kit, Full Exhaust.
(Thinking about Cams & a Re-Map Soon)
Short Journeys to work everyday!
Im doing a few Santa Pod trips this year and also one or two track days!

Ideally i need a fast Road oil, But also something which will cover and protect my car on a day to day basis!

I think im using 5w 40 at the moment!

Same as bove really although I forgot to mention that Motul 300V 5w-40 is also a good road/track oil.

Cheers
Simon

4th March 2006, 05:19

Quote:

Originally Posted by hesslevtr

saxo
vtr
51 plate
1600cc 8v

4-1 manifold, decat, bmc filter

road and track and quater mile

gerbox and engine

cheers paul

Paul,

Take a look at my reply to scott above

Cheers
Simon

4th March 2006, 05:24

Quote:

Originally Posted by woodsy

saxo vts
1.6 16v

i use castrol gtx high mileage oil as its thicker and fully sinthetic

bit like diesel oil

hardly ever top it up too but all depends on engine wear etc

It's a mineral oil actually and not great quality.

It's not synthetic and is no thicker than any other 40 grade oil including 0w-40 or 5w-40

They are all 14cst viscosity at 100degC and 40 times thicker at 0degC

Cheers
Simon

4th March 2006, 05:26

A short lesson on Multigrades:

If you see an expression such as 10W-40, the oil is a multigrade.

This simply means that the oil falls into 2 viscosity grades, in this case 10W & 40.

This is made possible by the inclusion of a polymer, a component which slows down the rate of thinning as the oil warms up and slows down the rate of thickening as the oil cools down.

It was first developed some 50 years ago to avoid the routine of using a thinner oil in winter and a thicker oil in summer.

For a 10w-40 to attain the specification target a 10W ( W = winter) the oil must have a certain maximum viscosity at low temperature. The actual viscosity and the temperature vary with the viscosity grade but in all cases the lower the number, the thinner the oil, e.g. a 5W oil is thinner than a 10W oil at temperatures encountered in UK winter conditions.

This is important because a thinner oil will circulate faster on cold start, affording better engine protection.

For a 10w-40 to attain the other specification target a 40 oil must fall within certain limits at 100 degC. In this case the temperature target does not vary with the viscosity grade, if there is no "W", the measuring temperature is always 100degC. Again the lower the number the thinner the oil, a 30 oil is thinner than a 40 oil at 100 degC., which is typical of maximum bulk oil temperatures in an operating engine.

The engine makers are, of course, very well aware of this and specify oils according to engine design features, oil pump capacities, manufacturing tolerances, ambient temperature conditions etc. It is important to follow these guidelines, they are important and are an are stipulated for good reasons.

If the engine has been modified, the operating conditions may well be outside the original design envelope. The stress on the oil caused by increased maximum revs, power output and temperature may indicate that oil of a different type and viscosity grade would be beneficial.

Cheers
Simon

4th March 2006, 05:26

ax gt
99 1.6 vtr bottom end gt head.
93 k reg.
1.6 8v aliminium block.

4th March 2006, 05:32

saxo
vtr
r reg
coming up for 90k miles

motorway and town miles, 300 average every 10-12 days 12k ish yearly, rough starter in the cold. Just something to keep her in good nick and running well for as long as poss and start better on a cold morning! cheers

4th March 2006, 05:34

the only problem with all of this is it appears that your more sales orientated than individual product/application, unless multiple manufacturers models and cars fall in to the same categorys (I see your posts on alot of forums i read) The only reason I say this and your quite within your right to correct me, but ive asked twice about my particular car and application and ive had 2 seperate answers and reasons, where as 1 I agree with the other was more err sales...

4th March 2006, 05:34

this would be simon and guy btw...

4th March 2006, 05:40

straight to the point!..

4th March 2006, 19:57

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ratty

the only problem with all of this is it appears that your more sales orientated than individual product/application, unless multiple manufacturers models and cars fall in to the same categorys (I see your posts on alot of forums i read) The only reason I say this and your quite within your right to correct me, but ive asked twice about my particular car and application and ive had 2 seperate answers and reasons, where as 1 I agree with the other was more err sales...

We use a proprietory database to source information on all cars back to 1980 (in fact the same one as used by Castrol, mobil and many others).

The information is going to be pretty repetitive in what is recommended particularly in most cars post 1990 as the OEM's are all moving in the same direction grade wise except for maybe the likes of BMW and VAG who are moving towards 0w-30.

Yes I am bound to recommend the products that I sell, they are the ones I know intimately although selling 6 brands does give me more scope than most out there.

More importantly I know the quality well and can advise on some other brands where I have chemical analysis.

We are on 300+ forums so you will bump into us from time to time no matter what car you have.

Honest answer like it or not

Cheers
Simon

4th March 2006, 21:51

Quote:

Originally Posted by citroenaxgtr

ax gt
99 1.6 vtr bottom end gt head.
93 k reg.
1.6 8v aliminium block.

This has the 1.6vtr Saxo engine in an ax, correct?

What do you use it for road/track etc?

Cheers
Simon

4th March 2006, 21:52

Quote:

Originally Posted by VTaaRon

saxo
vtr
r reg
coming up for 90k miles

motorway and town miles, 300 average every 10-12 days 12k ish yearly, rough starter in the cold. Just something to keep her in good nick and running well for as long as poss and start better on a cold morning! cheers

What viscosity (grade) oil are you using at the moment as it could account for poor cold start.

Cheers
Simon

4th March 2006, 21:55

i just use normal oil from my local motor factor (to citreons hand books spec), i have 93000 miles on the clock and its never missed a beat and she slighty modded. Ive had her since she had 35000 mine on the clock and my bro did the serives on her after the warranty ran out because the car belonged to his mate. i work on the theary(sp)avarage quality oil and 3000 miles changes. but every ones differnet.

4th March 2006, 22:02

According to my database all Saxos from the 1.0 to the 1.6VTS show either 10w-40 or 5w-40 as the recomended engine oil.

So what the whole oil debate here boils down to is not what grade to use, you have a choice it's 5w-40 or 10w-40.

The questions are

What quality do you need

What are the differences between 10w-40 and 5w-40

What are the benefits/downsides of using 10w-40 or 5w-40

Many car owners unwittingly change the OEM oil recommendation by modding their car or using it on track. These factors influence firstly the quality of oil you use and in extreme situations where cars have been heavily modded (generating more heat within the engine) sometimes the viscosity required.

I have a lot of articles on this stuff, some written bu me and some by chemists and technical bods that I have day to day dealings with.

I will post these up over the coming days as questions arise but here is one that will be of interest.

Cheers
Simon

4th March 2006, 22:05

Quote:

Originally Posted by cammedvtr

i just use normal oil from my local motor factor (to citreons hand books spec), i have 93000 miles on the clock and its never missed a beat and she slighty modded. Ive had her since she had 35000 mine on the clock and my bro did the serives on her after the warranty ran out because the car belonged to his mate. i work on the theary(sp)avarage quality oil and 3000 miles changes. but every ones differnet.

Indeed there are different schools of thought about cheap oils changed regularly but there are no real factual arguments, here is my opinion.

Cheaper oils are in the long run a false economy, In the first mile the higher volatility, inferior anti-wear performance and poor temperature resistance of a cheap grade of oil will start to show. Obviously, there will be no immediate effects. The whole point of top quality oil is long-term performance retention, which is particularly valuable to people who actually own the car they drive. The performance enthusiast will want to retain the new-spec BHP figures, and the cost-conscious will want to see good fuel economy with 100,000 on the clock.

Cheap oil, (particularly 10W/40 or thinner) evaporates quickly, and the vapour is drawn into the combustion chambers via the crankcase ventilation system. This means calcium and zinc oxide deposits (from oil additives) which will cause pre-ignition, so the knock sensor retards the ignition, giving less power and poor fuel economy. The deposits also contaminate the exhaust catalyst, leading to high emissions and MOT failure. How much does an average catalyst box cost these days?!

In most cases synthetic oils (proper ones that is) are the way to go if you intend to keep the car or the car is somewhat special or used hard.

Cheers
Simon

4th March 2006, 22:07

If you are "modding" your car and adding BHP then consider your oil choice carefully as the stock manufacturers recommended oil will not give you the protection that your engine requires.

A standard oil will not be thermally stable enough to cope with higher temperatures without "shearing" meaning that the oil will not give the same protection after a couple of thousand miles as it it when it was new.

Lets start with the fundamentals. An engine is a device for converting fuel into motive power. Car enthusiasts get so deep into the details they lose sight of this!

To get more power, an engine must be modified such that it converts more fuel per minute into power than it did in standard form. To produce 6.6 million foot-pounds per minute of power (ie 200 BHP) a modern engine will burn about 0.5 litres of fuel per minute.(Equivalent to 18mpg at 120mph). So, to increase this output to 300BHP or 9.9 million foot-pounds per minute it must be modified to burn (in theory) 0.75 litres.
However, fuel efficiency often goes out of the window when power is the only consideration, so the true fuel burn will be rather more than 0.75 litres/min.

Thats the fundamental point, heres the fundamental problem:

Less than 30% of the fuel (assuming its petrol) is converted to all those foot-pounds. The rest is thrown away as waste heat. True, most of it goes down the exhaust, but over 10% has to be eliminated from the engine internals, and the first line of defence is the oil.

More power means a bigger heat elimination problem. Every component runs hotter; For instance, piston crowns and rings will be running at 280-300C instead of a more normal 240-260C, so it is essential that the oil films on cylinder walls provide an efficient heat path to the block casting, and finally to the coolant.

Any breakdown or carbonisation of the oil will restrict the heat transfer area, leading to serious overheating.

A modern synthetic lubricant based on true temperature-resistant synthetics is essential for long-term reliability. At 250C+, a mineral or hydrocracked mineral oil, particularly a 5W/X or 10W/X grade, is surprisingly volatile, and an oil film around this temperature will be severely depleted by evaporation loss.

Back in the 1970s the solution was to use a thick oil, typically 20W/50; in the late 1980s even 10W/60 grades were used. But in modern very high RPM engines with efficient high-delivery oil pumps thick oils waste power, and impede heat transfer in some situations.

A light viscosity good synthetic formulated for severe competition use is the logical and intelligent choice for the 21st century.

Cheers
Simon

4th March 2006, 22:39

Quote:

Originally Posted by oilman

Quote:

Originally Posted by citroenaxgtr

ax gt
99 1.6 vtr bottom end gt head.
93 k reg.
1.6 8v aliminium block.

This has the 1.6vtr Saxo engine in an ax, correct?

What do you use it for road/track etc?

Cheers
Simon

near enough correct yes!.. but not using injection!.
im using the head from an ax gt along with the carburettor!. i do intend to use on roads and track!.

4th March 2006, 23:18

Quote:

Originally Posted by citroenaxgtr

Quote:

Originally Posted by oilman

Quote:

Originally Posted by citroenaxgtr

ax gt
99 1.6 vtr bottom end gt head.
93 k reg.
1.6 8v aliminium block.

This has the 1.6vtr Saxo engine in an ax, correct?

What do you use it for road/track etc?

Cheers
Simon

near enough correct yes!.. but not using injection!.
im using the head from an ax gt along with the carburettor!. i do intend to use on roads and track!.

Interesting! Do you know if this has had any effect on the normal and maximum oil temps or do you not have an oil temp gauge?

Cheers
Simon

4th March 2006, 23:22

the engine is yet to be put into the car!. i have to make the loom to make this work!.. shouldnt be long now i have the loom worked out. im just waiting for a hoist now to lift the engine in!.

4th March 2006, 23:28

Is it rebuilt then and not run in?

Cheers
Simon

4th March 2006, 23:50

no the engine has done about 50k not sure of the head!.

4th March 2006, 23:55

I would look at a good 5w-40 synthetic as it will be used in anger on the track... look at Silkolene, Motul, Amsoil and fuchs.

Cheers

Simon.

4th March 2006, 23:59

cheers!

5th March 2006, 05:03

Saxo Vtr 1.6 8v
80k miles
Mainly short journeys, driven hard now and then.
Just put 10w-40 gtx Magnatec in would this be ok?

5th March 2006, 05:40

For a stock road car yes it will be fine, you will get more protection from a fully synthetic but you'd need to weigh up the costs.

Cheers
Simon

5th March 2006, 05:57

Quote:

Originally Posted by oilman

Quote:

Originally Posted by VTaaRon

saxo
vtr
r reg
coming up for 90k miles

motorway and town miles, 300 average every 10-12 days 12k ish yearly, rough starter in the cold. Just something to keep her in good nick and running well for as long as poss and start better on a cold morning! cheers

What viscosity (grade) oil are you using at the moment as it could account for poor cold start.

Cheers
Simon

check here mate my saxos tipple!

5th March 2006, 15:00

i use 10w-40 GTX magnitec, but i did use 15w-40 between 70-85k. Shes sitting pretty wiv 108.5k on the clock now. She used to have a 106 rallye box in her witch ment at 60mph the revs were rather high!! also has a full exhaust no cat & an air filter, and i change the oil&filter as often as possible.... Hell i even replace things sumtimes that dont really need it, but its all relivant.

recomended oil i guess is a 5w-40 but i always let her warm up before i drive her anyway so is there much difference? 10% of engine wear occuring in the first 10-15 mins but shes stood still anyways!!

5th March 2006, 21:04

Quote:

Originally Posted by VTaaRon

Quote:

Originally Posted by oilman

Quote:

Originally Posted by VTaaRon

saxo
vtr
r reg
coming up for 90k miles

motorway and town miles, 300 average every 10-12 days 12k ish yearly, rough starter in the cold. Just something to keep her in good nick and running well for as long as poss and start better on a cold morning! cheers

What viscosity (grade) oil are you using at the moment as it could account for poor cold start.

Cheers
Simon

check here mate my saxos tipple!

I can't read form the picture whether this is a 15w or 10w oil but you'll get better cold start from a 5w-40.

Before you ask, no it's not too thin!

Cheers
Simon

5th March 2006, 21:05

Quote:

Originally Posted by WestyVTR

i use 10w-40 GTX magnitec, but i did use 15w-40 between 70-85k. Shes sitting pretty wiv 108.5k on the clock now. She used to have a 106 rallye box in her witch ment at 60mph the revs were rather high!! also has a full exhaust no cat & an air filter, and i change the oil&filter as often as possible.... Hell i even replace things sumtimes that dont really need it, but its all relivant.

recomended oil i guess is a 5w-40 but i always let her warm up before i drive her anyway so is there much difference? 10% of engine wear occuring in the first 10-15 mins but shes stood still anyways!!

Engine wear at cold start is 90% not 10% and yes 5w-40 is better for cold start than 10w or 15w etc

Cheers
Simon

6th March 2006, 03:10

Nissan Skyline 2.6 Twin Turbo GTR
Import) 1997
42,000 (miles) on the clock

Full HKS Race Exhaust
Turbo Hard Pipe Kit
Twin HKS Super Plower Flow Fiters
ECU Remap
Enlarged Intercooler
Enlarger Oil Cooler

Normal Sunday Driving and a few quarter mile days.

6th March 2006, 04:46

If you frequent the skyline forums, you will see that many owners use Silkolene Pro S 10w-50 or Pro R 15w-50 on our advice and love it.

It's what I'd recommend

Cheers
Simon

6th March 2006, 05:42

Simon, thanks for all of the great advice!

For my sins, Im a chemical engineer by trade and qualified chemist, so all of the technical info is greatly appreciated. From my point of view - keep it coming!

Regarding my oil requirements...

The car in question is a Saxo VTS, which has been turbocharged. bhp ~ 240bhp @ fly.

The car has been mothballed since December and will be back on the road in the coming weeks, ready for a year of track action. (its my 2nd car)

So, baring in mind the extra abuse and higher oil temps the turbo is likely to generate, what oil would you recommend?

I have a large'ish oil cooler fitted, with no secondary thermostat, so on cold startup, the oil is constantly cooling.

One observation... For a number of years I used Mobil 1 oil, however I observed that the oil tended to seep past the camshaft oil seals?

Now this could have been a seal problem, but I put it down to the low viscosity oil and stopped using it... the problem went away? It was never a large leakage, more of an annoying drip that occasionally needed to be wiped from the camshaft cover joint.

I look forward to your recommendations.

6th March 2006, 14:21

Simo,

Oil temps are the key here, it is common for people who turbo normally na engines to use a thick oil, thinking that it will require it, this is not always true.

If the oil temps remain below 120degc then you are looking at a 5w-40 full synthetic for all year round and track use, I would have thought this would be the way to go as you have a large oil cooler, using a thick oil thats running too low temps is as bad a running a thin oil at temps too high.

If however the temps rise above this then we would suggest a 10w-50 full synthetic.

Have a look at Motul, Silkolene and Amsoil.

Cheers

Simon.

6th March 2006, 14:21

saxo
1998 S reg
1.1i
54,000k on the clock

short journeys to college, occasional long journey, driven quite hard now and again

cheers

6th March 2006, 14:23

Quote:

Originally Posted by jonesyFX

saxo
1998 S reg
1.1i
54,000k on the clock

short journeys to college, occasional long journey, driven quite hard now and again

cheers

6th March 2006, 14:41

Jonesy,

As a cost option you are looking at a 10w-40 semi synthetic changed every 5k or so.

As a quality option we would suggest a 5w-40/0w-40 full synthetic, changed every 10k or so.

Cheers

Simon.

6th March 2006, 14:45

thanks mate

7th March 2006, 12:39

I have a 1.4 injection furio. I use 10w - 40 semi synthetic at the moment but its not a very good brand. I want to put some really good oil in it as i am servicing my car soon. Recomendations please???
thanks, phil..

7th March 2006, 14:28

Phil,

The top option is a 5w-40 full synthetic for all year round use, changed every 10,000 miles or so, if not just make sure you go for a well branded semi synthetic instead and change every 5,000 miles.

Cheers

Simon.

10th March 2006, 12:37

thanks mate, what brand would you recomend???

10th March 2006, 13:39

Silkolene and Motul are tops, others to look at are Fuchs, Mobil and Amsoil.

Cheers

Simon.

10th March 2006, 20:59

Hey Simon,

I have a:

1.5D 52 reg saxo - bog standard and shall remain so (might be tempted to stick a better filter on it but nothing major)
Currently does 100-150miles per week (running for 35mins at a time) and the occassion motorway voyage.

What would you recommend?

I've got Millers Fully Synthetic XFD 5w-40 in it at the moment.

Like Simo I'm a engineer (tho mechanical - which are better anyway

lol) so the detailed explainations are really appreciated.

Ad

17th March 2006, 18:26

Ad,

5w-40 synthetic is fine for the car. Unless you are modding or using on track, the likes of Silkolene PRO or Motul 300V are a bit overkill. They are better but are they warranted? Not really!

Cheers
Simon

17th March 2006, 18:40

thanks for your help anyway simon!

17th March 2006, 18:40

Quote:

Originally Posted by oilman

Simo,

Oil temps are the key here, it is common for people who turbo normally na engines to use a thick oil, thinking that it will require it, this is not always true.

If the oil temps remain below 120degc then you are looking at a 5w-40 full synthetic for all year round and track use, I would have thought this would be the way to go as you have a large oil cooler, using a thick oil thats running too low temps is as bad a running a thin oil at temps too high.

If however the temps rise above this then we would suggest a 10w-50 full synthetic.

Have a look at Motul, Silkolene and Amsoil.

Cheers

Simon.

Thanks very much - I'm looking to get the turbo back on the road in the next few weeks and will definately be placing an order.

19th March 2006, 16:42

oilman, whagt do you think of Torco SR-1 oil? ive heard some good reports as its 100% fully synthetic and meant to be v good quality.

heres the spec sheet

Torco SR-1

i have a standard 01 Y reg VTS 1.6 16v

i can get some at cost price and was thinking of buying 5l worth and doing an oil change. also, what oil filter would you recommend for me?

last week i put in about 750ml of some none synthetic 10w40 bog standard oil from asda because my oil level depreciated rapidly due to a leaky oil cap. i plan to get the torco oil and perform an oil change with the next fortnight and be back on track.

since putting the bog standard oil in, my car seems a bit flat as if it has lost power slightly. dont know whether this is just my mind playing games or true? cant wait to get some decent oil in!

19th March 2006, 18:05

Keydogg,

Not too familiar with this oil, it is performance rated according to the ACEA spec, but will have a good look at it and get back to you.

Cheers

Simon.

20th March 2006, 00:56

Quote:

Originally Posted by keydogg

oilman, whagt do you think of Torco SR-1 oil? ive heard some good reports as its 100% fully synthetic and meant to be v good quality.

heres the spec sheet

Torco SR-1

i have a standard 01 Y reg VTS 1.6 16v

i can get some at cost price and was thinking of buying 5l worth and doing an oil change. also, what oil filter would you recommend for me?

last week i put in about 750ml of some none synthetic 10w40 bog standard oil from asda because my oil level depreciated rapidly due to a leaky oil cap. i plan to get the torco oil and perform an oil change with the next fortnight and be back on track.

since putting the bog standard oil in, my car seems a bit flat as if it has lost power slightly. dont know whether this is just my mind playing games or true? cant wait to get some decent oil in!

You can't beat a decent oil so if your car is driven hard, use a good one not any old cheap rubbish.

Torco, sounds good doesn't it? Well it's probably better than some of the average oils out there but based on the shear numbers, not a patch on the likes of Silkolene Pro or Motul 300V and that's what counts, how shear stable is the oil and the Torco not the best by far.

Cheers
Simon

20th March 2006, 01:15

whats the best 5w-40 full synthetic on a budget?

20th March 2006, 01:18

On a budget, Fuchs Titan Supersyn SL 5w-40.

Not for track though, street only!

Check the prices in the Members Section of our website.

http://www.opieoils.co.uk

Cheers
Simon

20th March 2006, 01:26

cant get there registered but waiting for reply

20th March 2006, 01:40

ahhhh you had it in september 4l Titan Supersyn SL 5w-40 £23.99 + free p&p

20th March 2006, 13:44

You got a reply yet?

Cheers

Simon.

21st March 2006, 04:45

oilman, just got a free bottle of mobil 1 0w-40w, that ok for my standard Y reg VTR? seems thin! but ok?

21st March 2006, 14:29

Yes thats fine mate, its good stuff.

Cheers

Guy.

22nd March 2006, 03:53

thanks oilman! for the fast reply! car seems smoother!

another ?,

my bro has a W reg, suzuki grand vitara, 2000cc, what oil? any idea?

thanks!!

22nd March 2006, 13:54

10w-40 semi synthetic as the cost option, the quality route would be a 5w-40 full synthetic.

Cheers

Guy.

5th April 2006, 16:02

Feel free to ask all your oil related quaestions here.

Cheers
Guy

5th April 2006, 18:32

Going to be changing my oil soon so gonna put a 5w-40 oil in, what brand would you recommend as a top option?

Car is a 1.6 vtr with 80k mainly used for short journeys.

5th April 2006, 18:43

As the very best you are looking at the Silkolene Pro S or the Motul 300v as these are ester based oils. The very top ofthe oil tree

Cheers

Guy.

5th April 2006, 19:49

1997 Saxo VTS
1.6 16v
55k miles

bmc induction kit, s.s. cat back exhaust

driven hard on all roads daily

, may do some 1/4 miles

recommendations for engine + gearbox please, and how often

think it has 10w 40 semi synth in it now

cheers

5th April 2006, 22:05

Chris,

The quality option is for a 5w-40 full synthetic changed every 8,000 miles or so. top options would be the Silkolene Pro S or the Motul.

For the gearbox you will need a good 75w-90 gear oil, again the fully synthetic Silkolene Syn5 75w-90 or the Motul gear300 would be my choice.

Cheers

Guy.

5th April 2006, 23:32

Ok, thanks for the reply mate.

Although my mate just read your post over my shoulder here and laffed a lot, basically saying dont be so stupid, I would never need fully synth oil for my car, and that only track cars or cars with turbos need that.

Please tell me he's wrong cause he's one of these twats that thinks he's always right and knows everything about cars!

Cheers

6th April 2006, 01:11

Yes semi synthetic is fine, but they are all mineral based oils... good but true synthetics are designed to do the job, not convereted to do so and are better, its not all about does your car need it... its about is it better for your car and yes it is and thats a fact.

Ive has a dig around some old posts, get your mate to read this, its long but true.

SYNTHETICS vs MINERALS

Oil is the lifeblood of your vehicle's engine. For decades conventional petroleum
oils have been providing adequate protection for all of our vehicles.

The key word here is adequate. Petroleum oils, for the most part, have done an adequate job of protecting our engines from break down. If you change it often enough, you can be relatively sure that your car will last 100,000 to 150,000 miles without a serious engine problem - maybe even longer.

The real question is, why settle for adequate when something better has been available for
about 30 years?

Today's engines are built for better performance, and, although petroleum oils are designed for better protection and performance today than they were 10 or 20 years ago, there is only so much that can be done. Today's engines need high performance lubricants, and the only true ones available are synthetics.

Conventional petroleum oils are insufficient for use in today's vehicles primarily because they are manufactured from a refined substance, contain paraffins (wax), sulfur, nitrogen, oxygen, water, salts and certain metals. All of these contaminants must be refined out of the basestock in order for it to be useful for use within a lubricant.

Unfortunately, no refining process is perfect. Impurities will always remain when any refining process is done. It simply isn't economical to continue to refine the oil again and again to remove more impurities. If this was done, petroleum oils would cost as much as synthetic oils do.

There are many components of petroleum oil basestocks which are completely unnecessary for protecting your engine. They do absolutely nothing to enhance the lubrication properties of the oil. In fact, most of these contaminants are actually harmful to your oil and your engine.

Some of the chemicals in conventional petroleum lubricants break down at temperatures well within the normal operating temperature range of your engine. Others are prone to break down in these relatively mild temperatures only if oxygen is present. But, this is invariably the case anyway, especially since oxygen is one of the contaminants within petroleum basestocks.

These thermally and oxidatively unstable contaminants do absolutely nothing to aid in the lubrication process. They are only present in conventional petroleum oils because removing them would be impossible or excessively expensive.

When thermal or oxidative break down of petroleum oil occurs, it leaves engine components coated with varnish, deposits and sludge. In addition, the lubricant which is left is thick, hard to pump and maintains little heat transfer ability.

In addition, petroleum oils contain paraffins which cause dramatic oil thickening in cold temperatures. Even with the addition of pour point depressant additives, most petroleum oils will begin to thicken at temperatures 10 to 40 degrees warmer than synthetic oils.

As a result, petroleum lubricants will not readily circulate through your engine's oil system during cold weather. This may leave engine parts unprotected for minutes after startup. Obviously, significant wear can occur during this time frame.

Even when all conditions are perfect for conventional oils to do their job, they fall far short of synthetic oils. Part of the problem is that (because of their refined nature) petroleum oils are composed of molecules which vary greatly in size. As the oil flows through your vehicle's lubrication system, the small, light molecules tend to flow in the center of the oil stream while

6th April 2006, 16:53

I read through your reply and it does makes sense.

My mate had a look and still wasnt convinced, his point now is that the difference with using fully synth would be so small that it wouldnt be worth doing it, so theres no point even over the long term.

So would there be a noticable diff going to fully synth?

Cheers

6th April 2006, 21:34

They are all listed above mate, its one of those things where you need to rely on the chemsitry of it all, but yes if you want to do the best for your engine then Synthetic is it, considering that a true synthetic will also last over twice a long as a mineral based oil they are cheaper in the long run too.

Cheers

Guy.

7th April 2006, 00:26

well i put in mobil 0w-40 in, and made a huge diffrence!

engine is smoother, does 15 miles or so more to the tank, but the biggest diffrence is in engine temp

before it was always about 2/3 mm above half-way mark

now about 4 mm below, and only going above in traffic/stand still

7th April 2006, 01:05

What is best for 98bhp VTR with Viper, Manifold, Full s/s ??????????

Driven hard on a daily basis and i also get shit mpg

Your help needed! THANKS

7th April 2006, 01:25

vtr black top 87000miles
285 cam,manifold,system,enclosed induction,piggybak ecu
mostly normal driving sometimes driven hard.

7th April 2006, 17:14

Quote:

Originally Posted by oilman

According to my database all Saxos from the 1.0 to the 1.6VTS show either 10w-40 or 5w-40 as the recomended engine oil.

So what the whole oil debate here boils down to is not what grade to use, you have a choice it's 5w-40 or 10w-40.

The questions are

What quality do you need

What are the differences between 10w-40 and 5w-40

What are the benefits/downsides of using 10w-40 or 5w-40

Many car owners unwittingly change the OEM oil recommendation by modding their car or using it on track. These factors influence firstly the quality of oil you use and in extreme situations where cars have been heavily modded (generating more heat within the engine) sometimes the viscosity required.

I have a lot of articles on this stuff, some written bu me and some by chemists and technical bods that I have day to day dealings with.

I will post these up over the coming days as questions arise but here is one that will be of interest.

Cheers
Simon

i just done an oil change and used castrol edge sport 0w 40 as it says its the ultimate protection for the 1.6 saxo engine

7th April 2006, 17:21

Quote:

Originally Posted by DAZ1985

What is best for 98bhp VTR with Viper, Manifold, Full s/s ??????????

Driven hard on a daily basis and i also get shit mpg

Your help needed! THANKS

The quality route is for a 5w-40 full synthetic, the cost option a 10w-40 semi synthetic changed twice as often.

Brand wise, we rate Silkolene and Motul as tops.

Cheers

Guy.

7th April 2006, 17:21

Quote:

Originally Posted by daveg_vtr

vtr black top 87000miles
285 cam,manifold,system,enclosed induction,piggybak ecu
mostly normal driving sometimes driven hard.

Same as above mate.

Cheers

Guy.

7th April 2006, 18:04

Quote:

Originally Posted by oilman

Quote:

Originally Posted by DAZ1985

What is best for 98bhp VTR with Viper, Manifold, Full s/s ??????????

Driven hard on a daily basis and i also get shit mpg

Your help needed! THANKS

The quality route is for a 5w-40 full synthetic, the cost option a 10w-40 semi synthetic changed twice as often.

Brand wise, we rate Silkolene and Motul as tops.

Cheers

Guy.

Thanks for the reply

I've already got 10w-40 semi-synth magnatec in. Not the best but not bad for the money I think. I change my oil every 6months at least without fail.

Another question >>

I've been told everytime I oil change its sometimes best to use engine flush 1st to remove the old stuff completely out of this system. Is this correct and should I need to do it when i change my oil ???
I've also been told that adding some oil additives can protect you engine and also make them annoying tappets a little less noisy. Would this be true ???

Thanks again for your help

7th April 2006, 20:35

No need to use a flush if you use a quality oil synthetic as they keep things nice and clean.

If you do feel a flush is needed dont use an additive, just use engine oil.

Cheers

Guy.

15th April 2006, 04:18

this could be diffrent oilman!, what engine oil would be best for the engine of this car. It's a cortina mk 2
1968, mileage quite high over 80,000 so engine a little worn. soft seats,( use's lead additive)

15th April 2006, 16:54

I would use a good 15w-50 semi synthetic, something like the Motul 6100 15w-50 or a full synthetic thats good for lder vehicles such as the Silkolene Pro R 15w-50.

Cheers

Guy.

13th May 2006, 19:05

It took me a while to dig this thread up again... and Im ordering my oil for FCS today!!

Once I decide which to buy

13th May 2006, 19:13

spooky i looked at this thread earlier so i can see what oil he recomended for me

14th May 2006, 01:27

I think im going to go for the Silkolene Pro-R 5W-40???

Gonna decide and order this evening.

14th May 2006, 02:18

That would be a good choice Simo, Pro S 5w-40 top stuff.

Cheers

Guy.

14th May 2006, 02:36

Citroen Saxo
sx
1997
1.6 automatic gear box

no mods

road use just geting a to z really

recommendation for Engine automatic Gearbox doing wot im useing at the mo not long had the car not sure if to flus and start again not sure if i can mix oil

14th May 2006, 03:16

5w-40 full synthetic for the engine as tops, for the auto box an ATF Dexron II or Dexron III is ideal.

Plenty to look at on my site.

Cheers

Guy.

14th May 2006, 03:50

as tops you mean just top it up with that?

14th May 2006, 03:55

No as tops I mean its the best, to top up you need something similar to what is already in there.

Cheers

Guy.

14th May 2006, 03:57

i duno i just got the car 2nd hand i thort about flushing it and doing new

14th May 2006, 16:00

Just drop the old oil and replace it if you're not sure

Cheers
Guy

21st May 2006, 15:39

Quote:

Originally Posted by oilman

That would be a good choice Simo, Pro S 5w-40 top stuff.

Cheers

Guy.

Excellent... thats the one I just purchased.

Healthy discount for Premium Members too!

Just got to cross my fingers its in stoick and arrives in time for the trackday at the weekend now... I always end up leaving stuff till the last minute

22nd May 2006, 14:32

Simo,

In stock and should be with you tomorrow.

Cheers

Guy.

22nd May 2006, 18:50

Citroen Saxo VTS 16V
2000mod
Stock engine at 130.000km
Currently runnig Mobil 1 5W-50 Oil

Lots of road and track use.
Car covers 35.000km a year.

Shuld i stick with my current oil or change it?

Erik
Norway

22nd May 2006, 19:22

Erik,

The Mobil 1 5w-50 is fine, will also be fine with an SAE40 too.

What other brands do you have available to you out there?

Cheers

Guy.

22nd May 2006, 19:44

Guy,

I can get basicaly every oil brand on this windswept and wet rock i call home,
the only problem is the high oil prices i Norway.

Motul and castrol oils start from £15 a litre, because they are special import oils....

Btw, i change my oil and filter every 10.000km
And the oil use of the car is next to nothing.

Erik

22nd May 2006, 22:01

Erik,

If you want the daddy, Motul 300v as this is an ester based oil = the very best just like Silkolene.

Cheers

Guy.

22nd May 2006, 22:05

Quote:

Originally Posted by oilman

Erik,

If you want the daddy, Motul 300v as this is an ester based oil = the very best just like Silkolene.

Cheers

Guy.

I've seen this in a magazine got a very good rating. Can you get it in 10w40 i think it was you recommened to me. What price can you do it for ???

Thanks

22nd May 2006, 22:15

Comes in 0w-20 5w-30 5w-40 10w-40 and 15w-50.

Prices on my site http://www.opieoils.co.uk and Saxo owners get discount

Cheers

Guy.

5th June 2006, 14:06

I'd just like to say thanks to Opie Oils for getting my oil to me via next day delivery in time for the track session at Bruntingthorpe!

Top service!

5th June 2006, 17:48

Our pleasure matey.

Cheers
Simon

5th June 2006, 21:50

Simon,

I need 2 litres of gearbox oil for my vts, mostly road use but occasional track abuse.

The problem im having at the moment is that when the car gets very warm i.e. stuck in traffic or haring round a track, second gear is starting to crunch but only when warm. Im thinking that the box oil is getting to thin when warm?

5th June 2006, 22:10

When was it last changed?

Cheers
Simon

5th June 2006, 22:16

probably 30k miles ago when it was put in at the factory

6th June 2006, 22:25

i have just bought myself a new vtr the only mod is a pipercross induction kit and was wondering What type of Engine and Gearbox oil is the best to use?

1.6 VTR
2001
35000 miles
Road use only

6th June 2006, 22:48

5w-40 full synthetic for the engine, 75w-90 for the gearbox.

Motul and Silkolene are tops.

Cheers

Guy.

27th June 2006, 17:28

Saxo
SX model
1998
1.1i
No mods
Road use

What engine oil would be best?
Cheers

29th June 2006, 17:35

A regular street 5w-40 synthetic or a 10w-40 semi if you're on a budget

Cheers
Simon

6th September 2006, 13:39

Hi there

Car is a 98 vts with a supercharger
pistons,cams,exh,filter etc,etc

currently using gtx but have been told that this oil is to thin and has made the engine a bit tappety.

will see a bit a track and strip action and weekend street use.

also what would you recomend for the gear box, it has a LSD if that makes any difference.

thanks.

6th September 2006, 14:24

Its not that the GTX is too thin, more like it isnt up to the job.

With mods like this your really looking to use a quality synthetic, 5w-40 is fine unless engine/oil temps are extremely high.

Brand wise, I would go for either Silkolene and Motul as these are ideal for track/road use.

http://www.opieoils.co.uk

Cheers

Guy.

6th September 2006, 15:36

Cheers will be placing an order soon.

What about the gearbox ?

6th September 2006, 15:45

Silkolene Syn5 75w-90 would be my choice.

Cheers

guy.

6th September 2006, 15:48

saxo vtr w reg
de catted
bmc induction kit
magnex full system
4-2-1 manifold cheers

6th September 2006, 15:51

Same as above mate.

Cheers

Guy.

8th September 2006, 15:01

Advice please

Clio 172 (52 reg)
25k
Driven hard and steady occasionally
Standard other than full s/s

What do you recommend ???

Thanks in advance

8th September 2006, 15:43

what oil do i need for my saxo 1.4 westcoast t reg 1999 with 75000 miles.

only have a airfilter on it

12th October 2006, 15:14

Quote:

Originally Posted by DAZ1985

Advice please

Clio 172 (52 reg)
25k
Driven hard and steady occasionally
Standard other than full s/s

What do you recommend ???

Thanks in advance

If it's driven hard a decent 5w-40 synthetic would be my recommendation

Cheers
Guy

12th October 2006, 15:15

Quote:

Originally Posted by dave_and_gems_saxo

what oil do i need for my saxo 1.4 westcoast t reg 1999 with 75000 miles.

only have a airfilter on it

If it's a stock streetcar then a 10w-40 semi will suffice but if modded or used on track then a 5w-40 fully is best

Cheers
Guy

25th October 2006, 12:46

Make - Citroen
Model - Saxo VTR
Year - V reg?
Engine size/type - 1.6 8v

Any mods - BMC induction, scorpion exhaust system with janspeed 4-2-1 manifold and a de-cat

Type of use (road/track) road

Additional info (max oil temps, current oil used) oil gauge generally sits at about 1/4 ocasionally reaching 1/2

What do you want a recommendation for? Engine, Gearbox etc? Engine and gear box please!!!

servicing on friday need your advice oilman, or anyone else.

25th October 2006, 15:27

For the engine a good 5w-40 full synthetic, or as a cost option a 10w-40 semi.

For the gearbox a 75w-90 GL4 either semi or full synthetic.

Plenty to have a look at here http://www.opieoils.co.uk

Cheers

Guy,

2nd November 2006, 00:28

citroen
saxo VTS
2000
1.6 16v

induction kit, 4-2-1 manifold, jap exhaust,

mainly used on road but do thrash it once its warmed up, occasional track use.

oil temp is normally between 1/4 and 1/2, but never normally goes much over half

What do you want a recommendation for the engine and gearbox?

many thanks in advance

2nd November 2006, 09:12

For the engine 5w-40 full synthetic, if you are doing track days it is worth investing in a good one such as the Motul, Silkolene and Mobil.

For the gearbox a good 75w-90. Have a look at Motul, Silkolene and Castrol.

Regards

Guy.

2nd November 2006, 09:16

is that the same reccomendations for a standard VTS?

2nd November 2006, 09:20

thanks 4 the quick reply

2nd November 2006, 10:07

Quote:

Originally Posted by Soulless

is that the same reccomendations for a standard VTS?

If you want to the best mate, yes.

Cheers

Guy.

18th November 2006, 17:08

Oilman,

Read your advice with interest and I'll probably be changing by oil very soon. I'll be going for the Silkolene Fully 5W-40 for my VTS.

Just one quick question, what's the advantage of 5W-40 over 10W-40?

Cheers.

18th November 2006, 17:17

Just picked up the answer, 5W is thinner so will circulate better at start up.

Cheers.

20th November 2006, 09:40

Yep thats correct.

Cheers

Guy.

22nd November 2006, 13:16

Saxo
Forte
X reg
1124cc.

No Mods.

Engine Oil - Used just for roads, upto 300miles a week.

Cheers

22nd November 2006, 17:19

10w-40 semi synthetic is ideal, changed every 5k or so.

Cheers

Guy.

17th January 2007, 22:01

Make: Saxo
Model: VTR
Year: 2000
Engine size/type : 1.6L / 90bhp

Any mods: Forced induction, 4-2-1 manifold, de-cat, catback.

Type of use (road/track): Short trips (work & back...) driven steady, hard ocassionally.

What do you want a recommendation for? Engine oil.

Would an oil rated to: ACEA A3 B3 API SL CF (5w-40) suffice? It's a lesser brand thou.
If it helps I tend to change the oil within 6000 miles of use.

Thx.
ManC

17th January 2007, 22:11

With forced induction, I would be more comfortable with a true synthetic. What brand is it? if it is of the hydrocracked variety with regular changes at 3-4,000 all will be fine, but to be honest a quality synthetic will look after things that much bettter.

Cheers

Guy.

17th January 2007, 22:27

The oil is branded as Comma Premium Ultra Lite http://www.commaoil.com/MSDS/English...ite%205w40.pdf <pdf

The description of this induction says it forced.. but I think thats more of marketing thing, there's nothing forcing air in (fan etc) its more enclosed than forced, hope that helps.

ManC

17th January 2007, 22:51

I see, I though you meant it had a super charger or turbo, in wich case synthetic is the best route.

For naturally aspirated the 5w-40 from comma will be ok but do bear in mind it is made to a cost, so at the bottom end of the market.

Cheers

Guy.

18th January 2007, 08:56

Make - Citroen
Model - Saxo VTS
Year - 2000
Engine size/type - 1.6 16v

Any mods - BMC induction, Magnex exhaust system with Raceland 4-2-1 manifold and a de-cat

Type of use (road/track) road and a little track but not at the moment lol

Additional info (max oil temps, current oil used) oil gauge generally sits abit below 1/2 once heated up

What do you want a recommendation for my engine currently using 5 - 40 fully sythetic

18th January 2007, 09:54

Quote:

Originally Posted by oilman

I see, I though you meant it had a super charger or turbo, in wich case synthetic is the best route.

For naturally aspirated the 5w-40 from comma will be ok but do bear in mind it is made to a cost, so at the bottom end of the market.

Cheers

Guy.

I've managed to lay my hands on some Silkolene ProS but its only 1.5L (10w-50) would it be possible to buy 2.5L?

Thx.

18th January 2007, 10:25

I can do you 3ltr?

Cheers

Guy.

18th January 2007, 11:35

Quote:

Originally Posted by oilman

I can do you 3ltr?

Cheers

Guy.

Yes please

How much...

Thx,
ManC

18th January 2007, 11:54

£29.97 delivered.

Cheers

Guy.

18th January 2007, 12:31

does anyone rate castrol gtx magnetec? iv just changed the oil in my vts and looking in the user guide it shows the correct oil to use for the different climates i.e you would want different oil if you lived in greece than you would if you lived in scotland!

the gtx magnetec is 10w-40

18th January 2007, 12:56

Quote:

Originally Posted by spencer_cammedvts

does anyone rate castrol gtx magnetec?

No, an over priced 10w-40 semi, with some very good maketing behing it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by spencer_cammedvts

iv just changed the oil in my vts and looking in the user guide it shows the correct oil to use for the different climates i.e you would want different oil if you lived in greece than you would if you lived in scotland!

the gtx magnetec is 10w-40

Yes, if you live in geece the ambient temps are higher so the cold crank visocsity can be higher (eg 15w), if you live in the chilly highlands the you will need a good cold crank viscosity that flows at very low temps (eg 0w and 5w), its similar for the hot end as well.

Cheers

Guy.

2nd February 2007, 22:01

just done about 12K, using Mobil1 0w-40, time for a change? do about 200 miles a week, same oil again? loved the way it warmed up, so fast!

engine (vtr ,standard) done 78K

4th February 2007, 21:59

Looking to do a service soon,
VTS
2000 - x-reg
running a green cotton filter, gmc 4-1mani, sport cat, cat back exhaust system

mainly used for short journeys with the occasional track day

What do you recommend in the way of both engine and gearbox oils?
also should i be looking for any specific brands/types of filter or will any do?

cheers

5th February 2007, 08:41

Quote:

Originally Posted by lesz42

just done about 12K, using Mobil1 0w-40, time for a change? do about 200 miles a week, same oil again? loved the way it warmed up, so fast!

engine (vtr ,standard) done 78K

Hi,

Yes the Mobil 1 is ideal. A good quality pao synthetic.

Cheers

Guy.

5th February 2007, 15:06

1999 (v)
saxo vts
92000 miles
using casrol?? - expensive ( used halfords guide )
whats best, 15 miles a day more top end speed then off the lights
how regluar

5th February 2007, 16:45

Hi,

5w-40 or 0w-40 synthetic as the top option.

Brand wise, Silkolene, Motul, Fuchs, Mobil and Castrol are all worth a look.

Cheers

Guy.

5th February 2007, 21:09

hi. im using duckhams xqr 10w-40 in my w 2000 vtr with 51k on the clock. only mods are filter and exhaust. only do 30 miles a week in it doing normal driving with the occasional sprint up the local bypass to around 70mph. is this a good quality oil. thanks.

5th February 2007, 22:09

Being a semi synthetic, it will be fine with changes of around 5k.

The quality choice is for a 5w-40 synthetic.

Cheers

Guy.

6th February 2007, 14:50

how often do you recommend oil changes?

6th February 2007, 15:10

Depends what oil you are using.

A semi cahnge every 5k or so. Fully every 8-10k.

Cheers

Guy.

14th February 2007, 11:08

Citroen
Saxo VTR
1997
1.6

I have 2 airfilters Piperx and K&N 5.7 but don't have either of them on the car at present. So I don't know if i need different oils when I use them.

General road use.

I'm looking for a recommendation on what oil to use for both my gearbox and engine.

14th February 2007, 12:26

Air filter wont make any difference to oil choice.

For the engine either a 10w-40 semi or a 5w-40 fully.

For the gearbox a 75w-90, again semi or fully.

Have a look at Fuchs, Motul and Silkolene here http://www.opieoils.co.uk

Cheers

Guy.

21st February 2007, 07:43

hi there
i am about to service my saxo 1.6 8v vtr xreg i am an engineer by trade and have access to fully synthetic 0/40 texaco i use the car mostly for fast road use with a track day/autotest once a month
will this oil be ok also which gear box oil for the same application
cheers bevstar

21st February 2007, 11:56

Hi,

The 0w-40 will be fine.

For the gearbox we recomend a good 75w-90, if hard used synthetic is the way to go.

Cheers

Guy.

28th February 2007, 21:27

saxo VTS
x reg 2000
55000 miles
lots of short jorneys
boot it every now and again

i would like to change engine and also gear box oil what type should i get?
also i have a full stainless steel system de cated and a viper air filter. many thanks in advance..

28th February 2007, 21:34

5w-40 synthetic for the engine, for the gearbox a 75w-90, again synthetic being the best choice.

Cheers

Guy.

28th February 2007, 21:36

Quote:

Originally Posted by oilman

5w-40 synthetic for the engine, for the gearbox a 75w-90, again synthetic being the best choice.

Cheers

Guy.

thanks should i fit new filters too?

28th February 2007, 21:42

For what they cost they are always worth changing.

Cheers

Guy.

9th March 2007, 00:27

Saxo westcoast
103k miles
1.4 8v
100 miles a day roughly and driven hard quie regularly, i'm currently using castrol edge sport 0W-40 i think it is.. changed every 5-10k This seem ok?

Cheers, james

9th March 2007, 15:37

James,

The Castrol edge 0w-40 is a true pao synthetic, good stuff so you will have no issues with it.

Cheers

Guy.

10th March 2007, 02:25

Thanks guy!

Cheers, james

12th March 2007, 00:49

VTS Y Plate 58K on clock.

Currently using Mobil1 0w-40, this alright to use during summer as well?

Thanks.

3rd April 2007, 13:01

saxo vtr 2002

full exhuast system, air filter

mainly road use and the odd 1/4 mile

3rd April 2007, 13:29

Quote:

Originally Posted by vts_laker

VTS Y Plate 58K on clock.

Currently using Mobil1 0w-40, this alright to use during summer as well?

Thanks.

Yes mate thats fine.

Cheers

Guy.

3rd April 2007, 13:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by Andy

saxo vtr 2002

full exhuast system, air filter

mainly road use and the odd 1/4 mile

Hi,

5w-40 or 0w-40 full synthetic is your top option.

The best are the ester based oils of Silkolene and Motul.

Cheers

Guy.

1st May 2007, 14:29

Vaux
Nova
1992
1.4SRi

Air filter - only mod

Road use

Oil for gearbox and engine please??

1st May 2007, 16:17

For the gearbox you will need a 75w-90 semi or full synthetic depending on how much you want to spend.

For the engine a 5w-40 synthetic, top option or a 10w-40 semi as a cost option.

Cheers

Guy.

4th May 2007, 20:11

Make - Saxo
Model - Vtr
Year - 1998
Engine size/type - 1.6. 90bhp engine. Rebuilt. Since rebuild has 12k on. Had 32k before.

Any mods - Full exhuast 4-2-1 cammed port n polished.

Type of use (road/track) Both. More road though.

Additional info (max oil temps, current oil used) - Not sure

What do you want a recommendation for? Engine, Gearbox etc? - Engine.

5th May 2007, 21:32

Dave,

I would definately not compromise on quality if used on track at all.

Use Silkolene Pro S 5w-40

On offer on my website this weekend, 20% FREE!

Cheers
Simon

5th May 2007, 21:45

Saxo VTR - 18k on the clock 2002 model

Whats the best oil? for performance and a daily driver

6th May 2007, 12:54

Road use

Fuchs Titan Supersyn 5w-40
Motul 8100 5w-40
Mobil Synt S 5w-40

Road/Track

Silkolene Pro S 5w-40
Motul 300V 5w-40

All can be found here with prices in the Members Section http://www.opieoils.co.uk

Cheers
Simon

22nd May 2007, 01:18

1997 saxo vts
induction kit
67k
general driving
engine and gearbox please

22nd May 2007, 08:35

For the engine as above.

For the gearbox a good 75w-90 or 75w-80. Synthetic is the top choice but semi is also suitable. brand wise, Castrol, Mobil, Fuchs, Motul, Silkolene etc.

Cheers

Guy.

27th May 2007, 21:01

Vtr mk2
80k on clock
mostly town and motorway driving
open induction kit
51 plate

was thinking castrol GTX or anything similar.need a good recommendation

29th May 2007, 09:45

Quote:

Originally Posted by coldo1987

Vtr mk2
80k on clock
mostly town and motorway driving
open induction kit
51 plate

was thinking castrol GTX or anything similar.need a good recommendation

Hi,

The GTX from Castrol is really the basic recomendation, fine if changed every few thousand miles. Next up is a decent semi synthetic 10w-40 tehn on to a 5w-40 synthetic if you really want to treat it.

Cheers

Guy.

6th June 2007, 15:08

I got a Saxo 1.1

Is it OK to put 0w-40 or 0w-30 synthetic in as i am thinking of changing the oil soon?

Also what about gearbox oil?

Cheers
J

6th June 2007, 17:34

Quote:

Originally Posted by JSaxo21

I got a Saxo 1.1

Is it OK to put 0w-40 or 0w-30 synthetic in as i am thinking of changing the oil soon?

Also what about gearbox oil?

Cheers
J

Yes they will be ok, 0w-40 is more suitable then 0w-30.

Gearbox oil, 80w-90 or 75w-90.

Cheers

Guy.

7th June 2007, 10:03

Cheers
For the gearbox oil do i have to you a flush or anythink because i am no tsure what i have go in the at the mo?

7th June 2007, 10:49

No need to flush, just drain and replace.

Cheers

Guy.

8th June 2007, 18:13

is 5w30 ok? for a track/road VTR

8th June 2007, 18:15

Quote:

Originally Posted by D34no

is 5w30 ok? for a track/road VTR

5w-30 or 5w-40 but I think 5w-40 would be the preferred choice

Cheers
Simon

16th June 2007, 12:37

What oil should I use for my 1.4? It is on 85K miles. I am regulary using high revs

Cheers Oilman (or anybody else that could help)

16th June 2007, 13:46

A 5w-40 would be a good choice

Cheers
Guy

16th June 2007, 14:07

Quote:

Originally Posted by oilman

A 5w-40 would be a good choice

Cheers
Guy

Was that reply aimed at me buddy? lol

I am slightly confused by all these varitions in oil. In the halfords oil book, it says that I should used 15w - 40... Is that thinner or thicker than 5w- 40? Sorry if that is a really dumb question

16th June 2007, 14:39

The difference is the cold crank, the lower the better.

If you see an expression such as 10W-40, the oil is a multigrade.

This simply means that the oil falls into 2 viscosity grades, in this case 10W & 40.

This is made possible by the inclusion of a polymer, a component which slows down the rate of thinning as the oil warms up and slows down the rate of thickening as the oil cools down.

It was first developed some 50 years ago to avoid the routine of using a thinner oil in winter and a thicker oil in summer.

For a 10w-40 to attain the specification target a 10W ( W = winter) the oil must have a certain maximum viscosity at low temperature. The actual viscosity and the temperature vary with the viscosity grade but in all cases the lower the number, the thinner the oil, e.g. a 5W oil is thinner than a 10W oil at temperatures encountered in UK winter conditions.

This is important because a thinner oil will circulate faster on cold start, affording better engine protection.

For a 10w-40 to attain the other specification target a 40 oil must fall within certain limits at 100 degC. In this case the temperature target does not vary with the viscosity grade, if there is no "W", the measuring temperature is always 100degC. Again the lower the number the thinner the oil, a 30 oil is thinner than a 40 oil at 100 degC., which is typical of maximum bulk oil temperatures in an operating engine.

The engine makers are, of course, very well aware of this and specify oils according to engine design features, oil pump capacities, manufacturing tolerances, ambient temperature conditions etc. It is important to follow these guidelines, they are important and are an are stipulated for good reasons.

If the engine has been modified, the operating conditions may well be outside the original design envelope. The stress on the oil caused by increased maximum revs, power output and temperature may indicate that oil of a different type and viscosity grade would be beneficial.

Cheers
Simon

16th June 2007, 14:50

So if 5w - 40 is a thinner oil, surely at high revvs it won't protect as much as 15w-40?

I pretty much understood half of what you just said mate. Great answer, but the dummy reading it isn't too hot on his engines

16th June 2007, 18:10

Nope, when hot they are both 40, sae 40 and the same thickness at 100degC

14cst (centistokes)

Cheers
Simon

17th June 2007, 12:02

hi,

1999 VTS - 74k miles
Induction Kit/ Re-mapped
road use only

Thanks

17th June 2007, 16:29

Synthetic 5w-40

Cheers
Guy

17th June 2007, 21:51

Hey Guy / Simon

My 106 GTi has done 100k miles now, only recently got the car checked the oil the other day and it seemed a bit blacker than it should, the hydro tappets are a bit noisy to so time for a change!

So what should I go for? 5/40 or 10/40? and what brand? Car just had usual manifold, exhaust and piper 270s in.

Thanks

18th June 2007, 10:59

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sophia_Bush

Hey Guy / Simon

My 106 GTi has done 100k miles now, only recently got the car checked the oil the other day and it seemed a bit blacker than it should, the hydro tappets are a bit noisy to so time for a change!

So what should I go for? 5/40 or 10/40? and what brand? Car just had usual manifold, exhaust and piper 270s in.

Thanks

Hi,

It depends on how good you want to go and how much you wish to spend.

The cost option is for a 10w-40 semi synthetic with very regular oil changes. The quality choice is for a 5w-40 and 0w-40 full synthetic and these last a lot longer.

Brand wise, our favorites are Silkolene, Fuchs and Motul.

Cheers

Guy.

18th June 2007, 21:32

I do not have a problem spending money if it means my engine will run quieter/better/last longer!!

As I say the hydro tappets are a bit noisy so I think a good 5w-40 would be ok?

19th June 2007, 10:45

Indeed 5w-40 will make an ideal choice.

Cheers

Guy.

28th June 2007, 22:31

Hi, I was wondering what oil you would reccomend for my Saxo, the spec is as follows:

2000 vts
Newman PH3 cams
Slightly worked cylinder head
Carbon air box
Magnex exhaust
Fresh engine, completely rebuilt and not yet run

The car will see some road use but also track work and tarmac rallying too.

Thanks a lot

28th June 2007, 22:44

Which oil oilman

?

2000 90bhp VTR
Magnex cat-back + gmc manifold
standard intake
Thrashed around counrty lanes most days for a good 20 mins +
then used to get to work on dual carriage way at 50mph

29th June 2007, 09:50

Quote:

Originally Posted by jstimpson1

Hi, I was wondering what oil you would reccomend for my Saxo, the spec is as follows:

2000 vts
Newman PH3 cams
Slightly worked cylinder head
Carbon air box
Magnex exhaust
Fresh engine, completely rebuilt and not yet run

The car will see some road use but also track work and tarmac rallying too.

Thanks a lot

Hi,

To run in use a 10w-40 semi, run for around 1000 miles. Once run in a 5w-40 synthetic, for competition use the ester based synthetics of Silkolene and Motul.

Cheers

Guy.

29th June 2007, 09:52

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steve_VTR

Which oil oilman

?

2000 90bhp VTR
Magnex cat-back + gmc manifold
standard intake
Thrashed around counrty lanes most days for a good 20 mins +
then used to get to work on dual carriage way at 50mph

A good 5w-40 synthetic is ideal, these dont cost the earth and are much better then a semi.

Have a look at Fuchs and Motul 8100.

http://www.opieoils.co.uk

Cheers

Guy.

29th June 2007, 22:17

Quote:

Originally Posted by oilman

A good 5w-40 synthetic is ideal, these dont cost the earth and are much better then a semi.

Have a look at Fuchs and Motul 8100.

http://www.opieoils.co.uk

Cheers

Guy.

thanks, does oil affect performance? oils still clean but car running a bit shat

what about gearbox oil aswel mate?