right unfortunately i took very few pics of the project so i hope that my description of the process will be sufficient for you guys.
TAKING THE DIALS OUT - this is if (like me) you don't want to take the steering wheel off and risk setting off the airbag, though if you're confident enough, theres a guide on a thread here somewhere.
first you need to have a typical socket set and a couple of the small star-shaped screwdriver bits.
take off the black 'cowelling' i.e. the black covers that go over the wires just behind the steering wheel. there are two screws (one each side) on the underneath part. make sure these don't get damaged/cross-threaded etc because they can be a bugger to put back.
you'll then find three big-ass bolts on the underneath that secures the steering rack. remove these to allow you to manoevre the wheel about a bit. (DO NOT DRIVE WHILST THESE ARE REMOVED - you WILL crash!!

)
you can then try and get the plastic surround out, which is just in front of the dials unit itself. there are two very small star screws on the top corners, and two slightly bigger on the bottom. THE BOTTOM TWO ARE VERY HARD TO GET OUT when you do this without removing the steering wheel. i used a bendy screwdriver, whilst manoevering the wheel about to get to them. the surround then simply clips out.
you can then remove the three screws (one on top, two on bottom) that attach the dials unit. detach the wires from the back, and with a bit of persuasion, the dials unit WILL fit through the steering wheel.
DISECTING THE DIALS
i found this thread which shows the mk2's, the mk1's arent too different, and are far easier in fact - because you dont have to solder, and dont have to remove the circuit board.
i just removed the original crappy dials by peeling them off. i then had new dials proffesionally printed with my-choice-of-colour filters. unfortunately this isnt possible to most

if theres enough interest i could try and get a few more made, but it costed me a bit to get them done
put it back together and DONE!!