Vts idle problem

  1. #1
    I have a 1999 mk 1 vts. I have a problem where the car will idle fine cold or hot and then suddenly the revs will drop right down if i don't catch it and give it a rev it will cut out and i have to restart the car which it does straight away with no problem. It sometimes does it when i dip the clutch pulling up to junctions etc.

    I have cleaned my air filter and made sure there was no leaks coming from that also replaced my icv as well. took the throttle body off and cleaned all that and also removed all the sensors and cleaned them and refitted them

    Anyone got any ideas what might be causing this ???

    The car got serviced 1000 miles ago getting new spark plus at that time it has 60,000 miles on the clock.
  2. #2
    maybe give it a little service change sparks and oil sorted mine out
  3. #3
    spark plugs and oil and oil filter were all changed about a 1000 miles ago.
  4. #4
    I had this on my 106 gti, i changed the green temp sensor that made the most difference, they are about £15. If that fails then it could be the map sensor
  5. #5
    Car worse now when cold it's fine but once it warms up runs like s**t. very lumpy idle and hesitant to go when i accelerate. Getting harder to drive down low once you get up the revs it is fine no problems at all checked coilpack that was fine also changed the temp sensor but no joy.

    i think it is either map sensor or lambda. Got a map sensor but wrong part number for my car so looking for one that has the part number - 0 261 230 012 and also a lambda sensor so i can swap those over.

    Any other help would be great
  6. #6
    Car now even worse have left it for a while as not been using it as much as can't be bothered driving it as never seems to work right. 3 things happen now

    1 - idle very lumpy car shakes when idling
    2 - when braking or pulling up to a juction and i dip the clutch revs dip way down nearly cuts out then it catches itself sometimes it does cut out. worse when hot
    3 - when first driving when cold it goes fine then its like hitting a brick wall for 5 secs sputtering etc and then goes away and is fine again.

    Have had the car put on a diagnostics machine this morning and nothing at all came back as a fault on the car also replaced these parts most from a member on here or some new bits.

    map sensor (2nd)
    icv (2nd)
    spark plugs (new)
    oil & oil filter (new)
    throttle body (2nd)
    throttle position sensor (2nd)
    air temp sensor (2nd)
    green coolant sensor (new)
    reset ecu
    ran through bg44k with a full tank
    changed crank sensor (2nd)
    2 coilpacks (2nd)
    lambda sensor (new)
    cambelt changed when cams were swapped over (new)

    spec of car is vts, mild cams, raceland induction, 421 manifold raceland into a decat straight through to a magnex backbox.


    Can anyone either look at the car or help me out with this as getting to a point where i can't even use the car no more as no fun to use ???

    thanks james
  7. #7
    The only thing you haven't done is the ECU. That's the first thing i changed on mine with pretty much the same problems. Its improved everything overall, but I will be changing the MAP sensor next.

    Can you get hold of an ECU you can swap to test?
  8. #8
    nope not to easy will keep a eye on here and ebay see if i can pick up a unlocked one for cheap to see if that solves my problem

    hate spending money on it and then you still have the same problem

    you'll know that yourself
  9. #9
    My car is doing the exact same as this I couldn't of described this any better myself if u solve the problem can you please let me know I'll be more than greatfull cheers
  10. #10
    I don't mind spending money on mine. It has got me to work for nearly 6 years. So to me, its worth it. I just ordered a MAP Sensor to see if that sorts my sloppy idle.

    My replacement ECU came from ecutesting.com. £254. They were pretty helpful on the phone. And there is a 10 day grace to return the old ECU of get an £80 surcharge fee.

    http://www.saxperience.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=384910
  11. #11
    Has changing the ecu worked?
  12. #12
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by djx11b View Post
    spark plugs and oil and oil filter were all changed about a 1000 miles ago.
    No harm doing an oil and filter change after 1000miles.
  13. #13
    Overall, changing my ECU mad a big difference. The car is more responsive with no flat spots. The ECU is like any other electronic device. If you have a bad solder joint this could cause a faulty reading from one of the sensors. Solely due to maybe higher resistence in the circuit. Even though the sensor itself is not faulty. This would also mean no error code because its still getting a valid reading.

    I'm summising all this. I know electronics, but not cars. Although the principals are the same. It may also be because of a dodgy map in the ECU.

    The point is unless you have a way to fully test the circuit yourself you will never know. We both have this problem because we have a MK 1.

    Someone call me out if I'm wrong.
  14. #14
    Ok I have a mk2 but single plug ecu. I'm just going to try a new ecu then mine flat spots till about 2k then bursts into life an I have all the same problems as above
  15. #15
    i've got a spare ecu that i'm going to get unlocked by ryanmt on here so once i get that done and swap it over will let you know if it solves my problems
  16. #16
    Cheers appreciate it
  17. #17
    i had this on my vts mk2 2001 it was the crank sensor
  18. #18
    Are you serious with the gold farming link!? Gtfo!
  19. #19
    ecu posted away today so should know by end of week if that has sorted out the problem
  20. #20
    Good luck!
  21. #21
    ecu back today so will get it in over weekend and report back on if its solved problems
  22. #22
    fitted ecu tonight thanks ryanmt for unlocking it

    made car run a bit better driving it up the revs

    but still no difference at all down low same prob revs dipping down when puling up to a juction stumped now as don't know what else to try ????

    car runs amazing apart from this so mite just live with it easiest option
  23. #23
    I wouldnt worry about it too much mate, you said it had mild cams right?

    My old golf was cammed and even when set up properly it was lumpy on idle...sounded like a machine gun
  24. #24
    yeh mild cams and remapped ecu goes really well through revs and cam kicks in

    your prob right just a bit of a pain just means i'll need to drive fast all the time lol so it can't dip

  25. #25
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by djx11b View Post
    fitted ecu tonight thanks ryanmt for unlocking it

    made car run a bit better driving it up the revs

    but still no difference at all down low same prob revs dipping down when puling up to a juction stumped now as don't know what else to try ????

    car runs amazing apart from this so mite just live with it easiest option
    My problem is exactly the same as yours now. Only thing i haven't changed is the TPS. I'll change that then give up and live with it.
  26. #26
    I have put my car back to standard as going to be seeling it soon and so far seems to have solved the problem which is weird so no induction kit and aftermarket exhaust running fine since yesterday. I'll update if it comes back hopefully not.
  27. #27
    I have the exact same problem! Even worse now that its not pulling the skin of a rice pudding. When I got the car it had an idle problem and the boy told me it was the mass air flow sensor... Fair to say he was lieing.
    Continued to drive it and the idle got worse, dip the clutch and it cuts out so need to bump it/ start it again. Now the engine is holding back and not pulling good... Think its overfuelling and been told it could be a burnt valve? HELP PLEASE!!!
  28. #28
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by djx11b View Post
    I have put my car back to standard as going to be seeling it soon and so far seems to have solved the problem which is weird so no induction kit and aftermarket exhaust running fine since yesterday. I'll update if it comes back hopefully not.
    If this is true then that would suggest a re-map is needed when running even small aftermarket parts such as the above?