Rough idle/ Added VIDEO

13th February 2011, 17:55

Rite did a few bits today and i think ive narrowed down my rough idle to be my breather pipes ! I wnt to check if ive got them in the rite places as well so could anyone tell me or directed me to a diagram of where each breather pipe goes please.

I.e brake servo
frp
pollen thing ect

Cheers

13th February 2011, 18:14

get some pics up and we can tell you if its right

13th February 2011, 19:10

Ok will be wednesday till im back down the garage

i have the break servo breather connected the one just under the throttle body

Frp connected to the small one in the middle under the inlet manifold

And the canister/pollen piped connected to the end under the MAP sensor

Cheers for any help

13th February 2011, 19:57

that sounds about right

13th February 2011, 20:50

there all in the right place? check for any splits or holes in them. iim assuming youve done a vts conversion? good luck with finding your lumpy idle diagnostics didnt relly help me at college so who knows whats next haha

14th February 2011, 09:11

Cheers for the help at least i know its plumed in right.
Got a new pipe on order for my brake servo breather as i belive thats to blame so ill see where that gets me !

Cheers

17th February 2011, 18:56

Heres a video of my Idle: I start it up let it idle of a bit rev it a little then back to idle

Now after doing my conversion it idled fine and then one day it did this and the alternator belt started squeaking if thats any connection
It now takes 2 or 3 time to fire up now as well

I have recently

Changed spark plugs
Changed fuel filter
added plenty of fuel and redex
Replaced brake servo breather pipe
Cleaned ICV and MAP and checked all sensors
New lambda

After doing this its a lot better but still not good as you can see in the video
I know it could be a number of things but i mainly want to see if anyone has had a similar problem and what solved it. Any help appreciated !

17th February 2011, 19:05

What about the TPS? throttle positioning sensor?

17th February 2011, 19:14

Quote:

Originally Posted by VTHall

What about the TPS? throttle positioning sensor?

Cheers will give it a go

May have a spare if there the same on 8v

18th February 2011, 00:51

are the sensors youve replaced new ones? also are they cheapy ones. have you changed the coilpack? they seem to suffer with intermittent faults

18th February 2011, 10:06

hmmm the battery light is flickering, possible electrical fault maybe alternator or battery?

18th February 2011, 10:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gazer

hmmm the battery light is flickering, possible electrical fault maybe alternator or battery?

I would clean up the earth connection on the alternator & get the alternator tested as well.

Steve.

18th February 2011, 10:48

Mine was the same, i cleaned the idle valve and though yeah, but it needed a new one, also got them to do the TPS sensor and my car has never ran better

20th February 2011, 18:38

Cheers for all the help

So today i did :

Tested Alternator: 12v on batt/ Engine on 14v so that ( seems fine )
Tested for fauly earths: Earthed my gearbox/car chassi to batt with jump leads ( no change )
Fitted a new Crank sensor (old one was damaged but still worked)
Re cleaned ICV and TPS (no change)

Now i have a friend who reckons it may still be breather related. But i have checked and replaced breather pipes and just have carbon canister pipe going into Fresh air instead of the canister .

As well when the fuel pump primes there is a slight hiss from under the inlet manifold. Witch i take it is the FRP releasing pressure from the fuel system? Just wanted to double check

Next ill try a new ICV and TPS

Still i could do with testing another 16v coilpack but funds are tight so wont be able to afford a new one unless i find a cheap one

Any help appreciated

20th February 2011, 19:20

Keep us updated. Your problems sounds the same as mine. And I was getting around 20mpg tops

20th February 2011, 21:28

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gazer

hmmm the battery light is flickering, possible electrical fault maybe alternator or battery?

It's thinking the engine is going to stall but then knocks over again..

I had this problem with my MK2 VTR and it was the left hose coming off the rocker cover and going into the inlet manifold after the butterfly valve..

Ill go get some pictures of what I mean..
Where the midle hole is on my strut brace, that hose was gone where it was connected to the connector ontop of the rocker cover and it was idling like yours and stalling ever 20secs. once replaced gave the car a good run and let it stand and the idel control adjusted it self..

Hope this helps

22nd February 2011, 21:15

Quote:

Originally Posted by DusheR

Keep us updated. Your problems sounds the same as mine. And I was getting around 20mpg tops

Will do ill update with things ive tried until i find the problem

Quote:

Originally Posted by Heftydanielson

It's thinking the engine is going to stall but then knocks over again..

I had this problem with my MK2 VTR and it was the left hose coming off the rocker cover and going into the inlet manifold after the butterfly valve..

Cheers ! Same kind of setup on the VTS so ill give that a check over

also
Got a few readings that the Air intake and Throttle position sensor shout read at in working order. So i can give them a check tomorrow with my multi meter and ill update my findings !

23rd February 2011, 20:42

Quick update :-

Found some data (carn't verify it but its ment to be off autodata for a 97-03 vts ) so i cross check some sensors with my multimeter

Throttle position sensor
Component disconnected
terminals A & B Throttle closed 1000 ohms - 1500 ohms
I got (1415)

Terminals A & C Throttle closed 1000 ohms min
again around (1415)
Throttle fully open 3000 ohms max
and (2150)

Terminals B & EARTH with ignition on 5v
i also got (5v)

Adle air control valve (i have 2 so i tested both)
disconnected
A & D 50 ohms
Number1 (43.8)
Number2 (44.4)
B & C 50 ohms
Number1 (No reading)
Number2 (No reading)
Dont know why it wouldn't read pins B&C, will have to look in to it

Intake temp sensor

1&2 10 degrees 3530 - 4100 ohms
1&2 20 degrees 2350 - 2670 ohms
1&2 30 degrees 1585 - 1790 ohms
1&2 40 degrees 1085 - 1230 ohms
1&2 50 degrees 763 - 857 ohms

I got No fixed reading at set temp- So a new Intake temp sensor is on the shopping list

I also tested my Water/coolant temp sensor (green one)

(2565) But i have no data to check this against.

So from this i now know i need a new Intake temp sensor and i have voltage at all my sensors so its not wiring related.
Probably wont be the single cause but ill get a new one and see what changes. Hope this mite help a few others as well.

18th March 2011, 11:50

Will give this a quick update because i said i would and still have the problem!

Alternator was squeaking about the same time the idle went bad so i went to adjust it the other day and the long threaded bolt to adjust it with was like a banana !!!!

(it was fine when fitted)
Will have to order a new one but could this be putting stress on the pulley Due to too much tension maybe causing it not to idle properly ?
Im not sure but itl get changed anyway even if its not the main cause
Alternators been tested and works fine electrically as well

Cheers

3rd April 2011, 19:40

Car is fixed! my mate came round with his scanner and it flagged up the map sensor.
Sensor itself is fine one of the pins inside the plug was broken !
Was a 2 min fix lol