The car is running roughly Help Plz

  1. Newbie Joined: Apr 2011 Posts: 5 VTR
    #1
    Hi all

    I have Saxo VTR 1998 have some problems.

    The car is running roughly.

    The first thing to say I had the engine management light come on, I went to my local garage and they used Tecnotest Reflex code reader to see what the problem was the problem was O2 LAMBDA SENSOR now replaced. The garage charged me to read the code and do reset £40. Now the engine management light is off.

    Now have a new problem when the car is running round 30 – 40 MPH and the revs are round 2300
    The car run roughly. I have replaced spark plugs, HT leads, and coilpacks and no engine management light come on,

    Is this to do with the Injectors or something else and do need to get it code reader again.

    Help Plz

    Thank All
  2. Saxperience Forum Bum Joined: Apr 2010 Ilkeston Derby Posts: 3697 Red Mk1 R Silver Mk2 S & Mk2 Seat Leon.
    #2
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by iowtheme View Post
    Hi all

    I have Saxo VTR 1998 have some problems.

    The car is running roughly.

    The first thing to say I had the engine management light come on, I went to my local garage and they used Tecnotest Reflex code reader to see what the problem was the problem was O2 LAMBDA SENSOR now replaced. The garage charged me to read the code and do reset £40. Now the engine management light is off.

    Now have a new problem when the car is running round 30 – 40 MPH and the revs are round 2300
    The car run roughly. I have replaced spark plugs, HT leads, and coilpacks and no engine management light come on,

    Is this to do with the Injectors or something else and do need to get it code reader again.

    Help Plz

    Thank All
    What gear are you in when its running at 2300?
    Also give the ICV a good clean out which is located here ..




    Give that a good clean, petrol usually works best to get rid of the gunk and crap.
  3. Newbie Joined: Apr 2011 Posts: 5 VTR
    #3
    Thank Gibbo-Vtr

    Saxo VTR 1998 STD Engines No Mods



    Do i need to remove all in the Yellow Square



    ( Gibbo-Vtr What gear are you in when its running at 2300? )

    ( The gear was 3 or 4 )

    Thank
  4. Saxperience Forum Bum Joined: Apr 2010 Ilkeston Derby Posts: 3697 Red Mk1 R Silver Mk2 S & Mk2 Seat Leon.
    #4
    This dosent ALWAYS sort your bad idling out, it can be many other things, however this is a common problem, and this is a guide on cleaning it and replacing one

    Tools needed:

    T20
    T30
    Flat screw driver
    Carb cleaner spray
    and whatever your induction is connected on with or air box.

    15min job

    Haynes spanner rating out of 5:

    (1 spanner that is btw)

    1) Ok, i dont think its in the same place on ALL engines so this only applys if your throttle area looks like this:



    2) start with taking your induction kit or housing off

    3) Here is the idle control valve (ms paint production presents



    or in this guide for early HT leaded black tops.
    http://www.saxperience.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=220032

    4) Switch the car on, get your carb cleaner spray and spray it into the top half of this pic, give it some revs and keep spraying. If this fails and dosent sort your idling out then get ya T30 and undo the 3 torx keys, to take the body off



    5) the air that goes through the idle control valve is the top half of this pic in the body:



    6) Here is the hole from the inside, once your throttle body is off. Try cleaning this area up with some carb cleaner, you can buy this from halfords for like £5, spray a load in there



    7) Discconnect all the sensors and the throttle cable so its free. To take the idle control valve off, its easier to take the throttle position sensor off first, T20 on the 2 bolts there. then then idle control valve, again T20.

    Throttle position sensor is the one to the left of the pic, and the ICV is the one set back to the right



    8) Heres the badboy idle control valve, give it a good clean and the area it came from





    Then Re-asemble in the reverse steps

    Now take ya car for a good drive, over 8 miles.

    If its still doing it, then it could be many other problems, mainly sensors. Maybe worth getting a diognostics done usually £20ish by a local garage or sumtimes for free, if they dont find any fualt.

    Map sensor could be a problem, as it thinks there more or less air going in than there actually is, so the idle control valve changes in relation to the MAP sensors reading.

    To narro this down, find where your MAP sensor is, now switch your car on, wait for it to idle high if it isnt already, now dissconnect the multi plug NOT the whole sensor from the unit, if the idle comes back down to about 800rpmish then it could be the MAP sensor, It will idle very rough, but around the 800rpm range. It will also over fuel without this sensor, so dont leave it off.

    If your idle only happens when the car is cold, and comes back down when it warms up, then it could be the coolant temp sensor, giving a false readin, meaning its sending too much fuel in the engine, and needing more air to bang, so the idle control valve opens, ALL knock on chain reaction effect from one sensor!..

    In gear 3 is about right going past 33-34
  5. Frequent Poster Joined: Aug 2009 Sheffield Posts: 733 mk2 cammed vts and Audi S3
    #5
    the icv should not make any difference when your driving just when your stopped eg... on idle as the name suggests

    gibbo thats a good guide
  6. Newbie Joined: Apr 2011 Posts: 5 VTR
    #6
    Thank andiz & Gibbo-Vtr

    To Gibbo-Vtr thanks for the guide.

    But this is not the same, I can not see the ICV in my pic but i can see it in your pic.

    I think i will go to my local scrapyard where i know there are some cars and get a new secondhand unit as i think mine is all enclosed. Unless anyone has any other ideas. Once again thank you.