mot emissions fail (fail pictuce inc) !!!12/10/2011 NEW QUESTION ON LAST PAGE!!!

5th July 2011, 11:49

car failed last week on emissions. heres the emissions fail sheet:

can anyone tell by this how bad the emissions are and how possible it is to lower them?

about 2 months before the mot i had run threw petrol/injection cleaner.
bout 3 weeks before test did oil change and filter and flushed the engine with some cheep asda oil i had, but the oil in there now is castrol magnatec.
when i got the car about 5 months ago iv changed the radiator so cooling system had a flush too.
im unaware of when the spark plugs where changed as i haven't done them yet and when i changed the oil filter it was kinda rusted on and oil was thick and black (my own fault not changing plugs asap), but i shall be getting some standard ngks today or tomorrow.
i have a ngk lambda sensor to put in too.
i have a de-cat pipe but the night before the mot test i put the cat back on but where it joins to downpipe there was a little leak (but i mean very little) i tried to tighten as much as possible but couldn't get rid of the leak, could this have caused some of the results on the fail sheet? but whilst cars been offroad i stuck the de-cat back on and the bolts used to attatch to downpipe im thinking i put on the wrong way when i put the cat on as it wasn't leaking when i put de-cat on.

so me changing the plugs and lambda would that be enough to drop the emissions to pass? or is there more i will need to change.

any help on this would be great guys.

cheers

5th July 2011, 11:49

5th July 2011, 11:51

5th July 2011, 11:55

5th July 2011, 11:55

grrrr why are none of these pics working? i havent moved or deleted it

5th July 2011, 11:56

http://s1101.photobucket.com/albums/..._1233335_n.jpg
heres link to pic

5th July 2011, 12:05

try a new cat and lambda sensor?

5th July 2011, 12:24

Maybe. Like I said iv bought a new lambda sensor but its been delivered to a mates so won't be fitting that till about Saturday. Hopefully new plugs will make a good difference if they haven't been changed for a while. Would a new fuel filter help at all?

5th July 2011, 12:31

yeah try giving it a full service and get a new cat.

5th July 2011, 12:39

As above really, a new cat and lambda is needed by looking at the test results, an exhaust leak can cause a high lambda reading due to the exhaust drawing in air and tricking the lamba sensor into telling the ecu that the engine is running lean and dumps a load of fuel in to try and correct it.
How is the car running? Could be a fudged water temp sensor as well, as these also control fueling.

5th July 2011, 12:52

Engine WAS running fine untill the other day when I was gonna clean lambda and unpluged loom end but not manifold/downpipe end as I didn't have spanner big enough.so plugged loom end back in and now it has a missfire. Before that tho it was running fine. Exhaust had a slight wiff of petty but that's most prob the de-cat and backbox

5th July 2011, 13:21

Did u run the car without the lambda sensor being plugged into the loom? If so I would reset the ecu overnight by just by disconnecting the battery, this might get rid of the misfire.

5th July 2011, 13:31

Quote:

Originally Posted by CbVtR

Did u run the car without the lambda sensor being plugged into the loom? If so I would reset the ecu overnight by just by disconnecting the battery, this might get rid of the misfire.

Tried that already.... Twice :-) lol

5th July 2011, 14:33

Ask your mates if they know any garages that do 'de-cat friendly' MOT's

.

5th July 2011, 18:09

Just changed the plugs and omg the black on the tips was horrible, surprised car was running at all. I'm on my phone at the month but I'll upload a pic of one later. New plugs are in but not sorted the missfire. Hopefully emissions will be better. Mate brought my lambder sensor down but I aint got a bloody 22mm spanner. So that will have to wait haha. Just hope that sorts the missfire

5th July 2011, 18:16

Can't see how a lambda sensor could cause a misfire. All it does is read the emissions and changes fuel/air to suit.

I haven't had ANY of the 2 plugged in for 20k miles, never misfired.

When was last time you changed the fuel filter? Got a mate with a coilpack you could try?

5th July 2011, 18:26

Could do with a decat friendly mot place in the north east if anyone knows of one

5th July 2011, 18:41

yeah im gonna try a coil pack too i think as it was a little easy to pull off.and when my mate did his plugs the coil pack had a fair bit of grip.

and im only thinking lambda caused the missfire as it only did it after i unpluged that and plugged it back in.

5th July 2011, 18:41

5th July 2011, 18:42

all four plugs where like that

5th July 2011, 18:43

oh mine only has the 1 lambda plug too as its early phase 2

5th July 2011, 18:44

Not that bad considering you've never changed them.

Carbon Fouled

Soft, black, sooty deposits easily identify this plug condition. This is most often caused by an over-rich, air/fuel mixture.
Check for a sticking choke, clogged air filter, or a carburetor problem - float level high, defective needle or seat, etc.
This may also be attributed to weak ignition voltage, an inoperative preheating system (carburetor intake air), or extremely low cylinder compression.

That describes your plugs.

5th July 2011, 18:48

just realised that's on older cars.. here..

http://www.v6z24.com/mods/howto/imag...gs/plugs19.jpg

Suggests you check fuel filter and air filter.

5th July 2011, 18:48

Quote:

Originally Posted by saxova

Not that bad considering you've never changed them.

Carbon Fouled

Soft, black, sooty deposits easily identify this plug condition. This is most often caused by an over-rich, air/fuel mixture.
Check for a sticking choke, clogged air filter, or a carburetor problem - float level high, defective needle or seat, etc.
This may also be attributed to weak ignition voltage, an inoperative preheating system (carburetor intake air), or extremely low cylinder compression.

That describes your plugs.

yeah they have a slight wiff of petty too. i know air filter is fine as its a fairly new induction. done about 100ish miles since iv had it.

5th July 2011, 19:41

Quote:

Originally Posted by saxova

Suggests you check fuel filter and air filter.

would you recomend fuel filter change anyways as i have a feeling this has most prob never been done

5th July 2011, 19:43

definitely.

And take it for a long run (rag) before you go in for a re-test, CATS work better hot.

5th July 2011, 19:48

yeah will do. just hope i sort out this bloody missfire too now.

5th July 2011, 19:48

Money on it's your coilpack (Y)

5th July 2011, 19:52

hmmmm thats what iv been thinking a bit too. but just so so strange it happened when i unplugged lambda and plugged it back in then it started missfire. when it was only the plug end i unplugged not the sensor end as i didnt have spanner big enough for that.

5th July 2011, 20:27

Quote:

Originally Posted by saxova

Money on it's your coilpack (Y)

another question for you mate lol. does the vtr coil pack fit the 1.4 by any chance? and is the phase 2 coil pack any different as the phase 1? or as long as its the rail type being phase 1 or phase 2 or vtr or 1.4 doesnt matter it will work?

5th July 2011, 23:05

I have similar issues with MOT on a 2000 plate 1.4 Furio

CO's are reading 0.60 Fail
HC are 50 - 60 ish so a pass
and the Lambda just comes in at 1.03 Pass (if you rev the engine)

Fitted new Lambda, new CAT. No change at all.

Managed to find a standard air filter box today as it was running a stupid cheap free flow filter which meant the breather pipe was not plumbed in. Back to tester tomorrow to see if that helped.

A high Lambda reading (over 1) means the engine is running lean (the number works arse about face) 1 of course is the ideal value.

Hoping now the engine is breather properly and has some restriction on the induction side the MAP sensor will read how it should for the manufacturers fuel map and it will be closer if not solve the issue.

If not then I'll be running some injector cleaner through and cleaning the plugs although last time I had the plugs out they were fine.

As far as oil changes go for me it gets changed every 5K without fail.

Interestingly this car since we have owned it (3 MOTs worth now) has always struggled on emissions. (Year one new CAT, year two scrapped through, this year something wrong)

I have been advised though from my MOT guy that he has had bad CATs from brand new, then fitted another one and it has passed straight away.

If all of the above that I am going to try does not work then I will be going back to my CAT supplier to change the CAT they supplied me only a day or two ago for a type approved one which they assured me I would not need.

I'll keep you posted and will be keeping an eye on this thread to see how you got on also.

5th July 2011, 23:33

Quote:

Originally Posted by disco_ian

I have similar issues with MOT on a 2000 plate 1.4 Furio

CO's are reading 0.60 Fail
HC are 50 - 60 ish so a pass
and the Lambda just comes in at 1.03 Pass (if you rev the engine)

Fitted new Lambda, new CAT. No change at all.

Managed to find a standard air filter box today as it was running a stupid cheap free flow filter which meant the breather pipe was not plumbed in. Back to tester tomorrow to see if that helped.

A high Lambda reading (over 1) means the engine is running lean (the number works arse about face) 1 of course is the ideal value.

Hoping now the engine is breather properly and has some restriction on the induction side the MAP sensor will read how it should for the manufacturers fuel map and it will be closer if not solve the issue.

If not then I'll be running some injector cleaner through and cleaning the plugs although last time I had the plugs out they were fine.

As far as oil changes go for me it gets changed every 5K without fail.

Interestingly this car since we have owned it (3 MOTs worth now) has always struggled on emissions. (Year one new CAT, year two scrapped through, this year something wrong)

I have been advised though from my MOT guy that he has had bad CATs from brand new, then fitted another one and it has passed straight away.

If all of the above that I am going to try does not work then I will be going back to my CAT supplier to change the CAT they supplied me only a day or two ago for a type approved one which they assured me I would not need.

I'll keep you posted and will be keeping an eye on this thread to see how you got on also.

ok mate will come in handy and hope you sort it

6th July 2011, 10:31

OK well air box made no difference. I guess it was a long shot :-)

Now have some injector cleaner in, new plugs (althoguh the old ones had nothing wrong with them when I removed them and I'm going to get some Sheel V-power in her tomorrow. I'm aware that the ECU will only self tune to 98ron fuel however with the 1.4 high compression engine hopefully this will make a nice difference as well rather than the shitty fuel from shopping centers that normally goes through the engine lol.

More updates from me tomorrow.

6th July 2011, 11:37

Quote:

Originally Posted by disco_ian

OK well air box made no difference. I guess it was a long shot :-)

Now have some injector cleaner in, new plugs (althoguh the old ones had nothing wrong with them when I removed them and I'm going to get some Sheel V-power in her tomorrow. I'm aware that the ECU will only self tune to 98ron fuel however with the 1.4 high compression engine hopefully this will make a nice difference as well rather than the shitty fuel from shopping centers that normally goes through the engine lol.

More updates from me tomorrow.

When you say injection cleaner you mean the stuff you add to fuel? I added that about 2months back.I bet if you add it and go for mot test day after or so then emissions will be worse. And iv read up somewhere high octane (shell v-power) drops emissions on mot tests.I'm thinking tho with the state my sparks where in no dout lambdas gonna be full of the same. So changing that will help. Iv still got a few things on the car to sort before I do mot test. Dgs drum needs replacing,bearing, brake cylinder and new shoes, and I haven't took the drum off passenger side yet so hopefully bearing drum and cylinder are ok, just shoes need changing. Then I have to get some welding done, and headlights and that's it. Other than emissions and this daft missfire that started last week.

6th July 2011, 11:51

as silly as it sounds have you given it a proper good run and italian tuned it? got it nice and hot then straight in for the test?

6th July 2011, 12:02

in stead of injector cleaner you want to use this stuff http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CATACLEAN-CATA...item3a6608bf78

6th July 2011, 12:12

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sophia_Bush

as silly as it sounds have you given it a proper good run and italian tuned it? got it nice and hot then straight in for the test?

yeah well i took it to a garage my mates dad uses as he can be quite kind on mots for him and he's based in manchester (trafford) and i live in rochdale so it had a good 20min - half hour run on motorway, but was sat at mates house for half hour before his dad came to pic it up and take it to the station. maybe that did affect it tbh

6th July 2011, 12:13

Quote:

Originally Posted by tom_lloyd_4

in stead of injector cleaner you want to use this stuff http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CATACLEAN-CATA...item3a6608bf78

thats looks good stuff but how good is it?

6th July 2011, 12:38

if it sat for half hour it would of cooled down a bit how far out was your emission by?

6th July 2011, 12:42

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sophia_Bush

if it sat for half hour it would of cooled down a bit how far out was your emission by?

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/..._1233335_n.jpg

6th July 2011, 12:43

6th July 2011, 12:44

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sophia_Bush

if it sat for half hour it would of cooled down a bit how far out was your emission by?

click the link i just posted that works

6th July 2011, 17:28

swapped the lambda heres a pic of old against the new pritty filthy

but yet again iv run into a problem. this is apparently the right one for my car, plugged in the manifold fine, but the loom plug end is slightly different. the wires are also a different colour, my old one had 2 dark brown, 1 light brown (peachy colour), and 1 purple. but new one has 2 white, 1 light grey, and one black. the 2 wires that are same colour in both plugs are in the same places both on the very left. now im wondering as im sure when i was looking for lambdas i came across this somewhere, that i could snip the wires and join em up?is this true? heres pics of how they look:

as you can see the only difference is the nib on the plugs are in a different place. is it possible to use this one with a bit of sparky work

6th July 2011, 18:18

could i snip it and join both whites with the browns, the grey with the light brown peachy colour and join the black with purple for eg:

new ............. old

white ... - ... brown
white ... - ... brown
grey .... - ... peach/light brown
black ... - ... purple

6th July 2011, 18:28

ahhhh i knew id seen it somewhere it says further down on this listing how i said

lol

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NEW-citroen-sa...ht_3818wt_1139

6th July 2011, 19:45

if you cut any thing cut the lug off the plug dont cut the cables as they will be steel and you wont be able to get a good join

6th July 2011, 20:08

Quote:

Originally Posted by tom_lloyd_4

if you cut any thing cut the lug off the plug dont cut the cables as they will be steel and you wont be able to get a good join

the wires feel to flexible to be steel

should be ok if i use butt splices shouldnt it and then some insulation tape around them???

6th July 2011, 22:15

no the lamber use's a signal between 0.3 and 1.0 volt so a tape joint will not give the right reading and yuo will waste a sensor just cut off the litle plastic lug that stops it fiting ime only trying to help as i have allredy made that mistake
Tom

6th July 2011, 22:18

Quote:

Originally Posted by tom_lloyd_4

no the lamber use's a signal between 0.3 and 1.0 volt so a tape joint will not give the right reading and yuo will waste a sensor just cut off the litle plastic lug that stops it fiting ime only trying to help as i have allredy made that mistake
Tom

ahhhh you mean just cut the little nipples off the plug so it slots in as a normal plug was, then just insulate tape that so its in solid?

6th July 2011, 22:46

that would be your best bet mate get it pluged in then reset your ecu

7th July 2011, 10:46

plugged in now. missfire still the same

so next step is coil pack which has been mentioned to me more than once, but i thought id do lambda before i get a coil pack anyways as it was already on order and needed doin to drop my emissions.

i seriously hope the coil pack sorts the missfire out tho.
should be doin the other parts for the mot really before i mess with missfire fixing but the missfires winding me up now

7th July 2011, 11:31

oh yeah i never mentioned the misfire happens on idle and when being driven (in any gear) and it was like that from the start off the misfire happening. gonna try a mates coil pack off his saxo when he can be bothered to come down to mine to see if it is that lol

7th July 2011, 11:32

Noo, go back t the supplier and get the ight Lambda. I had the same things when I got the new lambda last week. Went back and then they said oh yer theres a few options for that car, then we matched up the right lambda from there list of options with the right plug.

Well today I picked up a type approved CAT from the same supplier fitted it and bingo, CO's down to 0.1% happy for another year :-)

I have taken the CAT I bough only a couple of days ago from them for a refund however they have to send it to there supplier for testing first. Mind you I supplied them with enough paperwork that they could never say the cAT was OK but hey ho.

Hope a coil pack sorts your issue mate.

7th July 2011, 11:35

You tryed cleaning your ICV before you get a new coilpack? Mine used to judder on slight revs, but not on full chat. cleaned the ICV and it was fine afterwards.. its a free fix, worth trying.

7th July 2011, 11:47

Quote:

Originally Posted by saxova

You tryed cleaning your ICV before you get a new coilpack? Mine used to judder on slight revs, but not on full chat. cleaned the ICV and it was fine afterwards.. its a free fix, worth trying.

which part of the icv should i clean up? and what should i use?

7th July 2011, 11:49

Quote:

Originally Posted by disco_ian

Noo, go back t the supplier and get the ight Lambda. I had the same things when I got the new lambda last week. Went back and then they said oh yer theres a few options for that car, then we matched up the right lambda from there list of options with the right plug.

Well today I picked up a type approved CAT from the same supplier fitted it and bingo, CO's down to 0.1% happy for another year :-)

I have taken the CAT I bough only a couple of days ago from them for a refund however they have to send it to there supplier for testing first. Mind you I supplied them with enough paperwork that they could never say the cAT was OK but hey ho.

Hope a coil pack sorts your issue mate.

i hope i sort the misfire fire to mate lol.

i got the lambda on sale off ebay cos the box was damaged £30 instead of £80 or whatever ngk ones go for. i checked the fitment on ngk/ntk website and it said it was right. cant send it back now anyways as if filed the nibbs off so i could get it to fit. its plugged in solid now tho so should be fine

7th July 2011, 13:05

heres a video of the misfire on idle from view in car, exhaust, engine. both on idle and with a rev.

the other strange noise you can here is my son, missus was out so i had him outside with me lol

please note this vid is also with the de-cat on

7th July 2011, 14:02

Quote:

Originally Posted by mcjacko1987

which part of the icv should i clean up? and what should i use?

Just undo the 2 torx bolts, and take the ICV off the inlet, and wipe it with some tissue, i've heard people use brake cleaner? I just wiped it off.. and wipe inside where the sensor goes.

This is on my 8v, not sure which one you've got!

7th July 2011, 14:04

From the video though, it sounds like it's not firing on all 4 properly. has it got Lack of power?

Checked if your spark plugs are tightened?

7th July 2011, 14:11

Quote:

Originally Posted by saxova

From the video though, it sounds like it's not firing on all 4 properly. has it got Lack of power?

Checked if your spark plugs are tightened?

yeah its only firing on 3. high lack of power lol. was doing this before i changed spark plugs. its all explained better at the start of this thread really

7th July 2011, 14:13

http://www.saxperience.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=384950

or on here

7th July 2011, 22:53

Not sure if the ECU's are anything like the ones on P38 Range Rovers but I know on the Sagem Management on the Rangies they learn and adjust nothing with the petrol light on. (Just noticed in your video)

I know this woudl not cure your missfire but might help with ignition timing if the saxo ECU works the same.

Have you had a change to try a coil pack yet. I like my '94 V8 Landy with its districutor. I can simply pull a plug lead and see if the engine changes note to see if that cylinder is the one at fault or not. Not that it ever misses a beat anyway (touch wood lol)

Infact heres a video of my Landy off road. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=amciz2fRKXs

7th July 2011, 22:58

Quote:

Originally Posted by disco_ian

Not sure if the ECU's are anything like the ones on P38 Range Rovers but I know on the Sagem Management on the Rangies they learn and adjust nothing with the petrol light on. (Just noticed in your video)

I know this woudl not cure your missfire but might help with ignition timing if the saxo ECU works the same.

Have you had a change to try a coil pack yet. I like my '94 V8 Landy with its districutor. I can simply pull a plug lead and see if the engine changes note to see if that cylinder is the one at fault or not. Not that it ever misses a beat anyway (touch wood lol)

Infact heres a video of my Landy off road. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=amciz2fRKXs

no not got round to trying another coil pack yet. dunno when mate can come and try it

7th July 2011, 23:00

and that looks fun, nice climb lol

9th July 2011, 23:05

Right tried coil pack. Problem with backfire still there. I took the fuse out that's for the lambda and it run worse. Put fuse back in. So iv still got a bloody missfire :-( what could it be?

10th July 2011, 12:20

only thing i touched on day it started happening 1) lambda sensor (plug end). 2)moved the cold air feed (doubt this would change a thing) 3)took of manifold heat shield to see if i could get to lambda better with an adjustable wrench (which didnt even adjust big enough for the nut lol) BUT the front middle bolt on the heat shield was a bugger to get out and when i was screwing it back in didnt screw in straight. however iv looked in the thread hole and all still looks normal.
like i said tho iv tried my mates coil pack and that did no difference at all and the coil pack does work. what else could be causing this misfire? any fuses that could effect it?

10th July 2011, 17:42

is there any chance at all that when i unplugged the lambda (battery was still connected) that i could have tripped the ecu?

actually thinking about the battery when i went to do the lambda that day im pretty sure one of the terminal screw caps where very loose on the battery, so i tightened it back up. could this be anything towards the misfire?

10th July 2011, 18:32

this is what im talking about on the battery......

iv just put it on charge anyways. but could it be possible when i last drove it one of them screws came loose and iv lost battery fluid or something and that's causing the misfire? i cant remember which one it was (may be one i circled but may not be)but one was basically on its last thread. i could have just pulled the screw off. iv just took some off before i charged the battery to look inside. cant see much lol but i cant see no fluid in there. bits look wet but that's about it. i cant really see that deep into the battery.

10th July 2011, 21:51

Quote:

Originally Posted by mcjacko1987

ahhhh you mean just cut the little nipples off the plug so it slots in as a normal plug was, then just insulate tape that so its in solid?

Please tell me you didn't mess about with the connectors on the lambda! It was obviously the wrong lambda! If you are going to cut around the connectors you might as well get a cheapo universal one off ebay but DON'T DO THAT EITHER!! It is so important that there is no electrical resistance introduced to the lambda connections.

Anyway, back to your mis-fire, it is probably something very silly like a poor connection at one of the engine sensors. Try unplugging and replugging all of them a few times, and the ECU too. Disconnect the battery first though.

Someone else on this forum had this problem and it was the wire going to the MAP sensor - where it came out of the loom it was only just hanging on due to fatigue.

Good luck with it.

11th July 2011, 00:07

No I haven't cut wires. The lambda that I bought all I did was sand the groove nipples on the plastic plug so it slot in easy.all wires are in right order in the plug so its how it would be if the plug was originally the right shape.I'm going to sort out mot stuff I think soon as I can and then take it for diagnostic on the misfire. Cars on axle stands at mo as the drums,shoes,a bearing and brake cylinder need replacing so I can't take it for diagnostic yet :-(

11th July 2011, 12:55

Charged battery overnight, no difference, blew in a few connections (all seemed clean anyway), still no difference

11th July 2011, 13:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by mcjacko1987

Charged battery overnight, no difference, blew in a few connections (all seemed clean anyway), still no difference

Check what the lad above said, check the wiring to the MAP sensor as a next step.

Can't you get the car plugged into a diagnostic check?

11th July 2011, 13:47

Quote:

Originally Posted by lwigmore

Check what the lad above said, check the wiring to the MAP sensor as a next step.

Can't you get the car plugged into a diagnostic check?

Yeah I'll check the map next, at mo the cars on axle stands. Sortin back breaks out for the mot. So far iv got a drum off 1 side and damaged the bearing, but also needs new shoes and a new cylinder on that side. Not checked other yet lol. But I'm on a very tight budget at the mo due to not working (income suport but got my operation on weds and can't work for 3 months after it) so does give me time to sort all problems out.

11th July 2011, 14:00

is the map sensor the plug thats to the left of the throttle body casing area?

11th July 2011, 16:45

yours failed same thing mine did my recording was 512 though bit higher than yours and dont have a clue what to do now

11th July 2011, 19:34

Quote:

Originally Posted by 0790hooper

yours failed same thing mine did my recording was 512 though bit higher than yours and dont have a clue what to do now

if you havent done mate 1st step give it a good service, oil change spark plugs. id already done oil on mine before mot. but the state of my spark plugs and lambda sensor hopefully iv resolved the problem. if not the a new cat should sort it. the misfire is the main thing running threw my mind atm even it should be sorting the rest of the mot out 1st

11th July 2011, 20:26

right iv checked the map sensor (the plug to the left of the tb casing) and all looks clean enough. i run the engine and unpluged it and the car stalled basically straight away. plugged back in and car started up still with bloody misfire.

11th July 2011, 20:32

Quote:

Originally Posted by mcjacko1987

right iv checked the map sensor (the plug to the left of the tb casing) and all looks clean enough. i run the engine and unpluged it and the car stalled basically straight away. plugged back in and car started up still with bloody misfire.

Have you checked the wiring to the MAP sensor?

11th July 2011, 20:34

not really no. was going to and noticed it went into a sleeve and looked like that runs to ecu. or does the map sensor go somewhere else first? does it go anywhere near the lambda area?

11th July 2011, 20:49

is that on the right of the image the map sensor? and where im pointing is as far as the lead will go visibly unless i cut open the main loom casing. i cant do anything else tho tonight now as im under strict orders to paint the kitchen

arrrggghhh women

14th July 2011, 17:18

Had an operation on my shoulder yesterday so everything that needed to be done for mot has been put on hold. Also has sorting out the misfire. But for a while iv been thinking of putting in a vtr engine. And now iv found out I'm gettin a bit more compo from army

so what better opportunity to get one put in now whilst iv got the money and this engine having emission and misfire problems. But now I'm thinking vtr? Why not a vts? I know the vtr is a basic swap for my car (just plug and play) how does the vts go about? Is there more work needed to put it in?or is the vts plug and play to? I'm gonna be out of action for a while now with my shoulder so got time to plan what I'll be doing. If the vts requires more work, how much more exactly and if so is it worth it over the vtr? I'm highly thinking get the vts but I just want to know how much a ball ake will it be to do?

14th July 2011, 23:44

Can someone show me a link to a vts or vtr conversion thread as I'm usin my phone on here lately and it a bit of a pain in the arse searching etc as its slow as feck

16th July 2011, 10:30

whats needed to fit a vts engine to my car? do i need:

vts lump
unlocked 1 plug ecu
gearbox
engine loom

12th October 2011, 17:40

right heres pic of fail sheet again just so it saves going back to the start:
http://s1101.photobucket.com/albums/..._1233335_n.jpg

question is:

iv replaced the following parts:

spark plugs, lambda sensor,fuel filter,ran redex threw before all of this too. also ended with a misfire and replaced injectors and rail with a low mileage rail and set of injectors, also new coil pack

with these replaced parts what are the odds of passing emissions now?

also on day of test i'll fill up with better fuel and take it for a good run before the test

12th October 2011, 18:08

Normally a high CO and lambda readings are indicative of a leaky exhaust, or a broken lambda sensors. If no leaks, then the lambda may have been faulty. Either way, it should work now.

12th October 2011, 18:11

yeah there was a slight leak at where the cat joins onto middle pipe as i hadnt tightened it well enough, but thats solid now. and the lambda sensor was horrible. sure i posted a pic on here of it tbh. anyways was as black as anything and looked all clogged up

12th October 2011, 18:13

If you fixed the leak and changed the lambda, that should be sorted.

12th October 2011, 18:22

cheers mate. hope so. the plugs to should have hopefully help. the old ones where as black as the lambda lol