EBay turbo manifolds

  1. #1
    Does anybody know what turbo's fit these mani's there £199 just wanna know what the flange is. Ta
  2. #2
    T2 T25 definitely fit... I wanna know if a T28 would fit as that's what I plan to use on mine.
  3. #3
    T28s should fit as they share same flange as the t25
  4. #4
    Cheers for quick replies. I thought it was t25 but wasn't sure.
  5. #5
    T2 T25 T25 GT17 gt25
    1 user thanked this post:
  6. #6
    These are good, but they are not great. The cituning mani is better quality if you can find one, buy that. I run a t2 from an r5 and the turbo is tiny tbh and even then, I struggle for space, my actuator touches the block right by the flywheel housing.

    I would imagine a bigger turbo would not fit here.
    1 user thanked this post:
  7. #7
    cant see a t28 clearing the block on those manis tbf
  8. #8
    What manifold do you use blackie
  9. #9
    mine was custom made mate, wont be another one the same
  10. #10
    Argh fair enough I'm looking st the eBay one but the dp one looks a work of art
  11. #11
    dp engineering 1 is too expensive definately look at a cituning manifold. I have a gt17 on it and clears everything easily. small turbo though.
  12. #12
    there is a way with the ebay manifold to clear stuff but would require slight modding not big tho
  13. #13
    could use another flage and longet studs too
  14. #14
    How much is the cittune one I think dp one is a very fair process tbh
  15. #15
    Hmmm custom mani might be required then
  16. #16
    Price!
  17. #17
    I know for a fact there will be some place out there that will make a pimp custom manifold for less than the dp item. People need to experiment
  18. #18
    how much is a dp performance one?
  19. #19
    there £450 quid and ive heard that half of them are warped. looks beautiful but i can get one for less than half the price that does the job. the kit is 1500 for a mani, turbo and downpipe. as apposed to 200 for a mani, 275 for a reconditioned garrett t25 (ebay) custom downpipe from powerflow/alternative probs less than 100. thats £575. so with the other 925 you can get a pred £600, clio injectors (if its just low boost) £60 for a set second hand. theres a fmic for £55 new (ebay) piping another £50, oil/water feeds £38 (ebay).... thats £1378 and i cant think of too much else you'd need for low boost.
  20. #20
    ^^ that will be for a mild steel manifold and I recommend NO ONE goes for a mild steel dp manifold. Stainless steel is the only way imo
  21. #21
    A stainless dp manifold comes to £680, that's without the £120ish quid option for external wastegate
  22. #22
    sounds awesome could always do that ford manifold thing I talked to you about danny
  23. #23
    danny I had the dp steel manifold on first and never had any problems with it. I now have the dp stainless mani with external wastegate. Wouldnt ever use an ebay mani, think it would be more hassle than its worth.
  24. #24
    I would only use the eBay mani if your on a tight budget.

    Custom made manifolds would be the best option, and prob cheaper than the dp and it's brand new. You would also be able to have it made how you want it.

    I wouldn't mind a dp blister mani myself tho coated in blue or green lol. But down to money's at the end of the day.
  25. #25
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by 106TURBO View Post
    danny I had the dp steel manifold on first and never had any problems with it. I now have the dp stainless mani with external wastegate. Wouldnt ever use an ebay mani, think it would be more hassle than its worth.
    The reason I said that about the mild steel manifold mate is when I went to northhampton motorsprt there was a turbo 106 with one on and it looked terrible!! Not exaggerating either, rusted to fuck and looked shite. Stainless is the only way IMO
  26. #26
    Have any of you boys ever looked at the sx13 manifold and having a saxo flange added?

    And wow never new the 450 was the mild steel one take it back quite over priced.

    I'n the zetec world that would get you a over the gear box eqaul lenght one
  27. #27
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by leighk18 View Post
    Have any of you boys ever looked at the sx13 manifold and having a saxo flange added?

    And wow never new the 450 was the mild steel one take it back quite over priced.

    I'n the zetec world that would get you a over the gear box eqaul lenght one
    So why don't you go to the people who make those manifolds and ask them
    To make a nice custom one... That's what I would of done if I didn't make my own
  28. #28
    I mite possibly do that as the guy that makes them is not to far away. But look at all my options as trying to think how far I want to go with the engine as a hole.

    No point having fancy manifold to run a low boost setup etc.
  29. #29
    I got quoted today 600 for a whole turbo exhaust today manifold the lot custom joby from john ashley exhuast full stainless life time guarantee what you guys think fair price or not
  30. #30
    As danny said, just gotta experiment Plenty of places will make you one up. For example:

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nissan-Sil...ht_2189wt_1163

    I bet with a different flange and some patience that could be made to fit. And if not, you could buy that, buy a saxo 16v exhaust flange, buy a t25 flange and take the lot to a decent fabricator and they could make you a copy that fits.

    I've seen 4 different DP manifolds off the car and all were warped, with my own being especially bad (ripped a manifold stud out of the head). DP know this is a problem so hopefully are working to reduce the cause, but the last person I spoke to who bought a new one said it effectively came with a disclaimer now rather than actually being resolved.

    The flange on them is thick enough that you can have them plained back to flat without too much issue, but is that something you should have to be doing on a brand new (very expensive) manifold? Don't get me wrong - I like the DP stuff. But the quality control needs tightening up.
  31. #31
    Could get a custom stainless GR Performance manifold for a lot less than a DP one and they have already made a few 106/saxo manis
    1 user thanked this post:
  32. #32
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by RossDagley View Post
    As danny said, just gotta experiment Plenty of places will make you one up. For example:

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nissan-Sil...ht_2189wt_1163

    I bet with a different flange and some patience that could be made to fit. And if not, you could buy that, buy a saxo 16v exhaust flange, buy a t25 flange and take the lot to a decent fabricator and they could make you a copy that fits.

    I've seen 4 different DP manifolds off the car and all were warped, with my own being especially bad (ripped a manifold stud out of the head). DP know this is a problem so hopefully are working to reduce the cause, but the last person I spoke to who bought a new one said it effectively came with a disclaimer now rather than actually being resolved.

    The flange on them is thick enough that you can have them plained back to flat without too much issue, but is that something you should have to be doing on a brand new (very expensive) manifold? Don't get me wrong - I like the DP stuff. But the quality control needs tightening up.
    Sounds like the flange is not thick enough to cope with the welding
  33. #33
    I guarantee it will be because they weld it in one go...
  34. #34
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by RossDagley View Post
    As danny said, just gotta experiment Plenty of places will make you one up. For example:

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nissan-Sil...ht_2189wt_1163

    I bet with a different flange and some patience that could be made to fit. And if not, you could buy that, buy a saxo 16v exhaust flange, buy a t25 flange and take the lot to a decent fabricator and they could make you a copy that fits.

    I've seen 4 different DP manifolds off the car and all were warped, with my own being especially bad (ripped a manifold stud out of the head). DP know this is a problem so hopefully are working to reduce the cause, but the last person I spoke to who bought a new one said it effectively came with a disclaimer now rather than actually being resolved.

    The flange on them is thick enough that you can have them plained back to flat without too much issue, but is that something you should have to be doing on a brand new (very expensive) manifold? Don't get me wrong - I like the DP stuff. But the quality control needs tightening up.
    I would disagree about the thickness of the flange being enough .

    all the ones i have seen have an 8 or 10mm flange plate
    thats is not thick enough when you consider all the funny bends on the pipes attached to it and how they will expand and pull indifferent directions ,as we have seen with every manifodl of this make we have ever had off --even had to remake one to get it to fit again so it would line up with the ex system ,why do you think they supply a flex coupling in the kit ?
    if it was a race car there would be slip joints to allow for expansion so it did not bend things .

    i do not kow of any std car that does not have steady bars on turbo for same reason --alot of weight hangin on manifold to bend it as the manifold gets soft with heat -- and that with std cast manifolds
    the ideal manifold would have been welded up and when still attached to the jig it would be heat treaed in an oven to remove the stresses form the bends (which would be done cold) and the welding.
    there will be no measurable advantage in having such a complicated manifold on a saxo over a simple one with pipes of suitable size --its just bling - .
    if you were using the ct28 twin entry turbo i could see a point in in doing it ,but not with a single entry unit
    as for studs being pulled out --I will take wild guess and say that at sometime the studs were not far enough into the head ,so threads were weakened.

    ALL ex studs must be put back in head without nuts on them and tightned down to where the thread ends -- do not be lazy people and just screw the studs back in with the nuts still on them --not having a go at you Ross --just its what i always find on cars we strip and end up fitting "time serts" to quite a few heads .

    12.5mm minimum i would say --thicker would have no downside at all --just cost of material --look at our btb units for n/a --they use 12,5mm and they do not have to take the heat of having a turbo backing up the gas
    1 user thanked this post:
  35. #35
    I have tried the S13 mani, not saying it couldn't be made to fit but its miles off in reality. You may as well just go for the ebay one and modify that





    http://www.cabletiemotorsport.com/ga...Turbo/Manifold
  36. #36
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by axsaxoman View Post
    I would disagree about the thickness of the flange being enough .

    all the ones i have seen have an 8 or 10mm flange plate
    thats is not thick enough when you consider all the funny bends on the pipes attached to it and how they will expand and pull indifferent directions ,as we have seen with every manifodl of this make we have ever had off --even had to remake one to get it to fit again so it would line up with the ex system ,why do you think they supply a flex coupling in the kit ?
    if it was a race car there would be slip joints to allow for expansion so it did not bend things .

    i do not kow of any std car that does not have steady bars on turbo for same reason --alot of weight hangin on manifold to bend it as the manifold gets soft with heat -- and that with std cast manifolds
    the ideal manifold would have been welded up and when still attached to the jig it would be heat treaed in an oven to remove the stresses form the bends (which would be done cold) and the welding.
    there will be no measurable advantage in having such a complicated manifold on a saxo over a simple one with pipes of suitable size --its just bling - .
    if you were using the ct28 twin entry turbo i could see a point in in doing it ,but not with a single entry unit
    as for studs being pulled out --I will take wild guess and say that at sometime the studs were not far enough into the head ,so threads were weakened.

    ALL ex studs must be put back in head without nuts on them and tightned down to where the thread ends -- do not be lazy people and just screw the studs back in with the nuts still on them --not having a go at you Ross --just its what i always find on cars we strip and end up fitting "time serts" to quite a few heads .

    12.5mm minimum i would say --thicker would have no downside at all --just cost of material --look at our btb units for n/a --they use 12,5mm and they do not have to take the heat of having a turbo backing up the gas
    I should clarify John - when I say warped, I mean fucked





    And you're right - on reflection that flange is thinner than I remembered - perhaps 8-10mm as you say. We took about 1.5mm off mine to make it usable, and (touch wood) it's not given us any more problems.

    I may look into supporting the turbo with a brace though - that's a good idea.
  37. #37
    it has maybe stress relieved itself now with all the heating and is happy or maybe the thinner flange is just flexing and not taking a permanent bend?.
    this why car makers use a casting of a decent thickness for a std fit
  38. #38
    possibly down to mapping? bad mapping and leaning out making it extremely hot on exit causing warping?
  39. #39
    id say it was the thickess looking at it....the flange thickness VS. diameter of primaries is shocking looking at that pic...
  40. #40
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by 106TURBO View Post
    possibly down to mapping? bad mapping and leaning out making it extremely hot on exit causing warping?
    They're warped from the factory.
  41. #41
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by RossDagley View Post
    They're warped from the factory.
    That's surprised me as I thought dp were among the best for quality.
  42. #42
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by stevo1600 View Post
    That's surprised me as I thought dp were among the best for quality.
    Their quality is good overall. But this is a known fault they have admitted to. It's their welding jig. I understand it's been improved since the last (new) manifold I saw but still not resolved.
  43. #43
    So has any body got any experience with the cittune one what's it like for clearance etc and warping?
  44. #44
    So looking from the pictures on Ebay, it has fitting for an external wastegate?

    I have a brand new Cituning Manifold and that too was slightly warped accros the flange, not as bad what is pictured earlier in this thread.