Advice on drilling aluminium (inlet)

  1. #1
    Right, I'm modify a S1 inlet to put on my vtr rebuild, but I'm using my bigger ICV as that's what my current engine uses. So have to drill into the inlet for the hose.

    But I'm just wanting advice on what the best drill bits/methods are to use to drill a 12/13mm hole so I can tap in a threaded hose adapter.



    Cheers.
  2. #2
    I'm no expert but, drill a nice pilot hole, and go up in increments up 1mm under the size you need and the tap a thread. Use good quality drill bits!
  3. #3
    What he said or for a few quid an engineering shop would do it
  4. #4
    If I was doing that at work,
    I,d drill a 3mm pilot, then 6mm, then tapping size pending what thread,

    If that's really thin you may not get a decent thread form depending on the thread pitch,
    Which would mean you may want a bung welding on an drill and tap that.
  5. #5
    Cheers fellas. Didn't think of the threaded problem actually.

    The adapter I'm using is like this:


    So I guess if tapping it in is a problem, then I could get a mate to weld it in...?
  6. #6
    Do you know what thread it it?

    If it's npt you'll probs get away with it, due to the taper tighening up on it's self just use a good helping of thread sealant.
  7. #7
    Not sure on the thread pitch gaz. Is there a way of calculating it by measuring the length and the amount of threads?
  8. #8
    If you cant get a thread to tap in it (unlikely) can you not use some sort of compression fitting in two halves, then just screw it down to form a seal?
  9. #9
    If your using a gas or airline fitting like that, measure it, drill a hole 1mm smaller the the fitting, don't try tapping it

    Just wrap it in ptfe tape, and turn it In with a spanner or socket keeping it straight

    It'll cut it's own thread


    Be VERY careful not to put it on an angle, soon as its got some resistance near the end of the threads, stop tightening, or you'll strip it

    I'd don't reccomend doing it this way, but your not gonna tap a decent thread for that on these inlets, I have used this method before though, if your careful it works, but only on n/a cars, boosted will just blow through the gap lol

    Best bet is get a pipe or boss tig'd on and use rubber pipe and jubilees to join it
  10. #10
    Cheers gandi and blackie, 'should' be sorting it out this weekend so will see what options we've got to play with. Want to get it done so I can start working on the bottom end.
  11. #11
    Drill on a slow speed - you want torque not speed to cut the metal, too fast and you'll just glaze it
  12. #12
    id not put it on the back but on the opposite end to the throttle body, if it comes of the back like you have it in the pic it will prob hit the bulkhead
  13. #13
    ^ It's going in my 306 so has a decent amount of space compared. I've measured it all and it should fit perfectly besides the alternator:

  14. #14
    cool as long as there is room lol

    keep the drill straight and it will be fine, ive drilled the hell out of mine and run boost with no issues


  15. #15
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by tweeqd View Post
    ive drilled the hell out of mine and run boost with no issues

    What the F.....

    No kidding huh!!??
  16. #16
    I asked that in the old thread Martin

    One thing I'll say is, the plenum is a lot thinner the the runners, especially on the rear where your trying, thickest part is left side of the plenum as Martin said (thats where its joined as you can see by the pic)

    They're a minefield in terms of wall thickness, but you can generally tell by looking where is thick/thin
  17. #17
    best pic i have of an airline fitting tapped in.. (on shelf taped up but you get the idea)


  18. #18
    I did make another piping route but wasn't sure on its location. As I thought the more central between the 4 intakes: the better. But that might just be a load of crap?

  19. #19
    idle valve works by bleeding air in to keep the engine ticking over

    works via the map sensor on vacuum..long as you got no air leaks it doesnt matter where on the inlet you put it..long as its after the TB
  20. #20
    Right, well me and my dads mate cracked on and managed to drill the mani and fit the adapter. The biggest drill bit I had was a 12.5mm but it was good enough for the tappered thread to fit into albeit not all the way in but worked out great:



    Took your advice blackie and just drilled the hole then wound the adapter in to create its own thread, worked a treat!. Then finished it off by thread locking it and putting sealant round the base.:





    Just hope my measurements are correct now...
  21. #21
    Also, people of Sax-p: Don't feel defeated when you don't have a big enough socket to press through your new cam seal....

    Just find a porcelain egg cup like I did:


    And it didn't even crack!
  22. #22
    pretty cool egg cup