wanting to remove power steering , is this easy to do ? anybody come into any problems removing it?
removing power steering !
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#2ye, just unblot it i reckon, i need a new one for my vts
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#3Take the pump and pipes off, plug to holes with bolts easy
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#4does the steering rack not need to be changed to a non-PAS one as well? this is the only reason i havent done mine as the pumps shagged.
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#5Take the pump off, join the hoses, job done. Will take about 10 mins if you drag it out.
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#7was going to ask this exact same question best get the bolts out lol
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#8Removing pas from a car with pas makes the steering really hard unless you totally remove it and replace the rack etc, if you plug the holes its rock to steer lol
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#9+1Quote:Removing pas from a car with pas makes the steering really hard unless you totally remove it and replace the rack etc, if you plug the holes its rock to steer lol
Really wouldnt reccomend using the same rack if you dont want PAS (it will be so hard to turn, almost impossible if you're not moving) They're not that hard to swap over but ive never fitted a manual, Can only assume it will be a straight swap, the rack might be longer though iirc. -
#10Not a straight swap, it the ram which causes the resistances, not the rack, remove the ram and will be like non pas, non pas racks change a lot and longer lock to lock, so pas rack quicker.2 users thanked this post: ,
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#12Very helpful, quick bit of weight saving to be done then!!
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#13dont have to change it, you can do if you want except the steering colum needs to be changed to non pas item as well, peope leave the pas racks in as it has a faster lock to lock its known as a 'quick non-pas rack'Quote:does the steering rack not need to be changed to a non-PAS one as well? this is the only reason i havent done mine as the pumps shagged.
when removing the pipes the fluid generally decideds to drain out of its own accord...Quote:Drain the fluid outta the rack first...
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Quote:Removing pas from a car with pas makes the steering really hard unless you totally remove it and replace the rack etc, if you plug the holes its rock to steer lol
if not done properly then yes its very hard, there is a difference to having a broken pas system (which makes steering very hard) over remvoing the pipes/pumpQuote:+1
Really wouldnt reccomend using the same rack if you dont want PAS (it will be so hard to turn, almost impossible if you're not moving) They're not that hard to swap over but ive never fitted a manual, Can only assume it will be a straight swap, the rack might be longer though iirc.
i was driving around for over a year with a pas rack with the pipes still attached but the fluid drained out and no pump, and it was fine no where near as bad as you make out, or im hench either way you decide
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#14Hench...Quote:
i was driving around for over a year with a pas rack with the pipes still attached but the fluid drained out and no pump, and it was fine no where near as bad as you make out, or im hench either way you decide
My PAS pipe burst a few months ago and it was much, much worse than a non PAS car. you must be huge
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#15My diesel had the pump removed but everything else on it still when I bought... Just hanging lol
Was a cunt to park but same as a non pas car it's ok when your driving -
#16well ive had my pas stopped working working before and yes it was horribile to steer almost popped my shoulder out its socket everytime i parked, but when i cracked my pas pump and i removed it and drained the fluid it wasnt hardly any harder to steer than a non pas car parking or driving
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#17Remove the ram it easy and will take all that stiffness away.
The reason it was hard when the pump stop because you are fight the fluid in the ram there no pump to pump it so you lose power assisted steering. But if you remove pump and the pipes and the ram, all that will be gone and leaves just a normal rack.1 user thanked this post: -
#18Read the link I posted it explains a lot.
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#19The theory whether you keep the pas rack aside, why do you feel the need to remove power steering anyway..?
What drives you to make your car shitter.. -
#20some people just prefer the feel on non-pas, i think on saxo its jsut about perfect as its not too light but on my mums clio the steering is really over assisted, it just makes the car a bit gayer and easier to drive to please the masses (definition of a car without a mulletQuote:The theory whether you keep the pas rack aside, why do you feel the need to remove power steering anyway..?
What drives you to make your car shitter..
)
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#21Get a lot better feel without the pas.
Mine a track car, it a not needed part. -
#22I've removed the pump and pipes does any know the size of the bolts needed to plug the rack? I've binned the originals before measuring them.
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#23Don't plug the rack. Just leave them open.
The ram is separate to the rack, so it won't damage the rack.
I drove mine like that for about 6 years no worries. -
#24Gonna be doing this soon myself on track car. Anyone know how much weight you ditch by removing pas? The pump looks weighty!!
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#25There's not too much weight in it, I'd guess the pump plus the pipes to the rack is just under 5KgQuote:Gonna be doing this soon myself on track car. Anyone know how much weight you ditch by removing pas? The pump looks weighty!!

If I get the chance, I'll weigh mine next time I'm across at my unit. -
#268 or so kilos saved.
+ benefits of removing losses from charging system. -
#278kg's is well worth it though in my view!
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#28Real simpleton question now...
What is "the ram". Clean answers only
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#29the part that looks like a damper on the rack in the engine bay by the bulkhead.
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#31Does anyone have a link to a Guide to removing all PAS ? I've found a few but they arent very detailed...
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#32The bit with the gaitor on it is the rack itselfQuote:And this can just be removed without any problems? Does it have a gaiter on it? I think I saw this the other day as the gaiter was split.
Simple removal??
the ram is below that and it's about half the length. It should just unbolt - maybe easier said than done with the engine in place. -
#33I'm hoping it unbolts from the left hand side, otherwise space looks very limited!Quote:The bit with the gaitor on it is the rack itself
the ram is below that and it's about half the length. It should just unbolt - maybe easier said than done with the engine in place.
Will probably have a shot at doing it tomorrow night. Everything else in the pas removal looks pretty straight forward... -
#34Can someone please show a pic of "the ram", don't wanna remove the wrong part and nause up the steering...
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#35Here it is, held in by 2 bolts.
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#37Tried and failed, just cannot get to the bolts with the engine in place. Tried turning the wheels in both directions which enabled slightly more clearance, but just not enough to get the hex bit in...
Any suggestions welcome. -
#38Did you try it with the inlet manifold removed?Quote:Tried and failed, just cannot get to the bolts with the engine in place. Tried turning the wheels in both directions which enabled slightly more clearance, but just not enough to get the hex bit in...
Any suggestions welcome.
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#40completely removed a rack with the engine and inlet (16v) on once. if it wasn't for a mate helping it would not of happened lol
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#41Well I bought a new set of extended hex keys thinking that would help, but still no joy!Quote:completely removed a rack with the engine and inlet (16v) on once. if it wasn't for a mate helping it would not of happened lol
I'm worried that taking more stuff - inlet manifold etc is above my skill set... and likely to result in some further wreaking of stuff.
Gotta get the power steering out though. I can't be defeated by this!!! -
#42Well I have just returned to attempt this again after 3 months of modding work. And surprise surprise I still cannot get the ram out!!! Have tried drilling the bolt but just isn't enough room to gain access. I cannot believe how fiddly this simple task is!! There must be an obvious thing I am missing!?
I understand there are just 2 bolts holding the ram in. As I am ditching the pas I'm not too worried about butchering the thread or anything, but as access is so limited, I can't even smash it with an oversized torx bit...
I assume the metal piping is all connected to the ram and nothing needs to be 're-bolted' after I get the 2 bolts out? -
#43Yes the bolt that holds the ram nearest the drivers side will need to be re-used or a new bolt put in its place.
It's a fine pitch thread bolt too, I want to say it's M10x1.25 and about 50mm long.
Not sure about the other end, it's been so long I can't even remember now.1 user thanked this post:
