Important! : Help can overheating, done bleeding

  1. #1
    RIGHT IM GETTING P£$$%D OFF WITH MY VTR NOW.. TEMPRETURE GAUGE GOES BETWEEN 3/4 AND RED AND IVE CHECKED LOADS OF THINGS, SO FAR IVE SPENT MORE THAN WHAT I PAYED FOR IT.... SO FAR WHAT IVE DONE IS:

    CHANGED THERMOSTAT AND HOUSING, AND BLED THE SYSTEM ENDLESS AMOUNT OF TIMES.. ITS NOT USING ANY WATER, AND THERE IS NO CREAMING IN THE FILLER CAP OR DIPSTICK, NO LEAKS... IF I LEAVE THE CAR FROM COLD IDLEING IT WILL GO ABOUT 2MM ABOVE HALF WAY, THEN SOON AS I START DRIVING IT SHOOTS UP ANYONE GOT ANY IDEA WHAT IT COULD BE??

    THANKS IN ADVANCE TO ANYONE THAT CAN HELP!
  2. #2
    How's the radiator? Just to make sure you are putting coolant in right?
  3. #3
    hi, yeah radiator is in ok condition.. as for the coolant i did it the correct way with the hedder tank, and used the 3 bleed valves.. i have bled a few before when servicing them.. its really getting to me, its the 2nd day i have spent on it.
  4. #4
    Interior heater on While bleeding?
  5. #5
    yeah, and its pumping out hot air, i had the heater on max.. its really confusing me now :/

    bump

    could it be the sensor its nakered and sending a false reading to the temp gauge? has anyone else got this problem?
  6. #6
    Does fan kick in?
  7. #7
    water pump??
    Head Gasket

    I had a car where the gasket was cracked and letting exhaust gas into the water chamber and heating the head up quick, over heated.
  8. #8
    the water is pumping round the engine fine. all pipes and rad all get hot once the thermo opens up.. no im waiting for a new fan, as the original is f*$£d, but when driving down the road it should keep the car slighly cool? right?
  9. #9
    Does the level drop in the rad tank when revved a bit from cold? should do if the water pump is working but might be worth investigating that but it can be a bugger to change as it'll be most likely stuck in the block and require some brutality getting it out.
    My VTR sits between 3/4 and just a bit over but doesnt go into the red - fan still comes on and cools as it should. I've tried sensors, new rad and waterpump, coolant flushes, different thermostats (82 degree now fitted from an s2 rallye) but still no change. Might be the gauge on the dash but as it just sits up higher but acts normally I just put up with it. Be useful if any one can shed any light mind
  10. #10
    I know its a pain but I would drain ALL coolant, flush the system thoroughly with a hose pipe forward and backwards to make sure the matrix aint blocked as well as the rad/pipes.

    Undo all bleed nipples and header tank cap and refill, squeeze pipes a lot to puch coolant round. Keep heating controls on hot/windscreen and No.1 setting.

    Unless you done all this dude
  11. #11
    I went out to it this morning and startd it up, reved it alittle on the throtal body and the water never moved and it used ti beforr i fitted the thermostat, and my fan fuse has blown again :/ thats the econd one in 2days..

    Yes i have used all nee coolant and bled it.. i must have bled it about 20 times, spent my whoke evening doing it
  12. #12
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by saladdodger View Post
    water pump??
    Head Gasket

    I had a car where the gasket was cracked and letting exhaust gas into the water chamber and heating the head up quick, over heated.
    I had the same problem

    If I was you mate I would maybe think about flushing it completely then starting a fresh.

    I've got a sneaky suspicion that your head gasket is letting in pressure to the cooling system and prob going out the exhaust too.

    Might be looking at a head skim pretty soon, plus point is that the timing belt can get done and it will only cost you the price of the belt.
  13. #13
    What solved it for you??
  14. #14
    Head gasket was fucked mate

    Head skim, new gasket fixed it for me
  15. #15
    Can you get a video of what the gauge does?

    Changing the HG is a bit of effort, wont hurt to change it but rule everything else out first
  16. #16
    Oh and btw the more you drive about with this problem the more the head cylinder will prob be needing skimmed.
  17. #17
    Ive done the headgaskets on alk my saxos ive had before so i am furmiliar with them... as for the temp gauge.. when idleing it sits just above halfway then soon as i put it into gear it rises to 3/4 then when driving it plays around 3/4 to the red, then turn the heaters in and it goes back down to around 3/4, and every saxi ive had, has ran just under half.. ive only had the car a couple of days and spent more than i payed for it
  18. #18
    Skimming the head is only necessary if its been badly overheated, this doesnt sound like its actually over heating to me
  19. #19
    No i wont let it over heat.. I did 60 mile yesterday and it didnt acctualy over heat if you get me.. it makes ne think ive got a dodgy temp sensor. The car its self is running fine (not missing, no white smoke, not using water or oil, no mayo in dipstick or oil ca.. and the heaters are still pumoing out hot air) its really confusing me now.. was ment to be my winter project and its turning out to be a winter dusaster
  20. #20
    Try a different temp sensor then? They're only £7 new, Or im sure a few member's will have some knocking about for a pint..
  21. #21
    Ive tried different temp sensors, VTR and rallye and no different - it still sits at 3/4
  22. #22
    Will i need to bleed the coolant system again if i change the sensors?? cheers for all the help guys.. ive got to get it running properly, as ive got to go and get my other sax from my mates.. as he lent it to go away..

    just ordered my sensor and will be here in a couple of hours. hope this fixes the solution :/
  23. #23
    No it wont need bleeding, which one did you order? post the results if it helps
  24. #24
    its the one on the side of thermostat, blue with the 2 pins, beleave its the one that goes to the ecu? i will post a pic of it up now for you
  25. #25
    how do i post a pic on here?
  26. #26
    have you got a mk2 vtr?

    get a photobucket account or flick account and upload the photo to there
  27. #27
    yes v reg mk 2
  28. #28
    Ah ok, slightly different to a mk1 then but still let us know how you get on
    Its the blue plug on my mk1 here, and i've changed it a few times with no difference :
  29. #29
    IIRC the green one is the one that goes to the ECU and the blue is for the dash display.

    I may be wrong though.
  30. #30
    on mine the twin pin goes to ecu and the single pin is the overheating light
  31. #31


    thats the plug on mine that ive just ordered from my local parts shop
  32. #32
    http://s1288.beta.photobucket.com/us...tml?sort=3&o=2
  33. #33
    I dont know if mk2s use the ecu to determine whats displayed on the gauge?
  34. #34
    apparantly they do but not 100% sure, thats what the parts place said to me anyway... there is only one way to find out i surpose and that is to fit it and see what happens.. if it doesnt work. im just going to forget about it. just replace the engine for somthing abit quicker
  35. #35
    I dont think the whole engine needs replacing for just a gauge though, if it runs fine and so on
  36. #36
    or i will just disconect the gauge, and it wont move so that wont bother me as much. :/im sure there is a very easy fix for it
  37. #37
    bit more difficult to diagnose with the ecu based system, i'd rig up a thermistor controlled fan or dash switch and then just use the car normally with the fan on when you feel necessary
  38. #38
    I did think about sticking a switch on the fan
  39. #39
    Thats by passing the problem, something is telling the gauge to run high, IF it is a head-gasket issue you'll do more damage driving it.

    I know its money, all cars are im sorry to say but if i were you i would:

    change the gauges if they are only £7, run car again and see what happens.
    Buy one of these :

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UNIVERSAL-...item1e740b2043

    Please let us know, very intrigued
  40. #40
    A sniff test doesn't always work, combustion gasses have to be getting into the coolant for that and the leak may just be water into oil if it even has one. My gauge sits high and I did the head gasket and rebuilt the head, so for me at least its got to be something electrical
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