What plugs and oil to get

27th February 2013, 03:42

Putting my vts engine in my car next week at some point and need couple things, got told NGK ones not good and f**k coil pack so Bosch ones be best?

Thanks, Daniel

27th February 2013, 03:47

I use and have done for 2-3 years Bosch Super 4's think they are worth every penny and never had a problem.

On my Vts i use Mobile 2000 10/40 SS with a gen Citreon oil filter.
I used Castrol 5/30 FS once but i drained it after 2 days and it was a bit thin and made my car tap.

27th February 2013, 03:51

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cam

I use and have done for 2-3 years Bosch Super 4's think they are worth every penny and never had a problem.

On my Vts i use Mobile 2000 10/40 SS with a gen Citreon oil filter.
I used Castrol 5/30 FS once but i drained it after 2 days and it was a bit thin and made my car tap.

Thanks bud

will get this ordered the morn, you any idea about box oil? getting new clutch to so be as well do it

27th February 2013, 03:53

Quote:

Originally Posted by DanoSaxoVT

Thanks bud

will get this ordered the morn, you any idea about box oil? getting new clutch to so be as well do it

Sorry mate cannot help you with that, i would like to know myself as i'm looking to change mine in a few weeks

27th February 2013, 04:00

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cam

Sorry mate cannot help you with that, i would like to know myself as i'm looking to change mine in a few weeks

We both stuck with same problem

thanks for me know about oil and plugs, appreciated

27th February 2013, 09:36

75w80 is the correct grade. Various brands are available, Total SynFE is what I favour when I can get it but I've used comma in the saxo

27th February 2013, 09:37

NGK is fine, don't waste your money on flash bosch crap.

27th February 2013, 09:46

NGK will be fine as long as the plugs are the same rating.

I don't see how ink lettering can affect your coil pack.

for your gearbox you're looking at something at least as thick as 75, so 75W-80. I use 80W90 in mine as it's a bit thicker and doesn't come out the driveshaft seals.

For your engine, road use, I suggest 10W40 semi-synthetic, a brand of some sort will probably be better than "carlube high mileage oil" or whatever other shit ASDA and B&Q stock

do NOT use fully synthetic. startup damage will finish off your big ends in about 20,000 miles.

27th February 2013, 09:48

Quote:

Originally Posted by MartinObviously

for your gearbox you're looking at something at least as thick as 75, so 75W-80. I use 80W90 in mine as it's a bit thicker and doesn't come out the driveshaft seals.

Bit thick that isnt it? Sandy Brown says even going up to 75w90 kills synchros on the MA

27th February 2013, 09:54

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gandi699

Bit thick that isnt it? Sandy Brown says even going up to 75w90 kills synchros on the MA

I can understand that

I'm not shifting for my life everywhere though

I'm quite slow and gentle with the gear stick.
My gearbox is buggered anyway, previous owner has been running it with not enough oil in it for a long time and it's getting a bit noisy.

Actually, you know something funny. on my 1.5D when I was stuck in the middle of nowhere I filled my gearbox with engine oil and it was smoother than I'd ever felt it lol.

I've changed my mind, I've had a think about it. 75W-80 would be the best for you to get.

27th February 2013, 09:58

I've ran engine oil in my 1.1 gearbox since my 16v conversion

27th February 2013, 11:09

To be fair, unless you are on track or smashing the crap out of it I doubt it would make that much real world difference. Wouldnt chance 10w40 in a box though, I cant see how it doesnt leak past the seals when hot

27th February 2013, 11:46

Engine oil in the box next post will be someone using cooking oil haha! So 75W-80 for box and Mobil Super 2000 X1 10W40 for engine be good?

27th February 2013, 11:52

any 10w/40 will do for the engine. definately get 75w/80 for the box as i put thicker in mine once and it damn near made it undriveable.

as for plugs, always stuck by NGK. had bosch ones break up in the cyliner before now

27th February 2013, 11:52

Quote:

Originally Posted by DanoSaxoVT

Engine oil in the box next post will be someone using cooking oil haha! So 75W-80 for box and Mobil Super 2000 X1 10W40 for engine be good?

that mobil stuff is semi-synthetic isn't it?

Ya sounds good.

Don't even get me started on cooking oil! we're not going down that road again

Although, I used to dispose of used engine oil after a change by tipping it in my 1.5D fuel tank after a quick filtering

27th February 2013, 11:59

Quote:

Originally Posted by chinkostu

any 10w/40 will do for the engine. definately get 75w/80 for the box as i put thicker in mine once and it damn near made it undriveable.

as for plugs, always stuck by NGK. had bosch ones break up in the cyliner before now

I don't want plugs falling to bits ha, So 10w/40 it is

27th February 2013, 12:02

Quote:

Originally Posted by MartinObviously

that mobil stuff is semi-synthetic isn't it?

Ya sounds good.

Don't even get me started on cooking oil! we're not going down that road again

Although, I used to dispose of used engine oil after a change by tipping it in my 1.5D fuel tank after a quick filtering

Yeah bud, semi-synthetic. Haha! I've seen someone go in to a shop and buying cooking oil and putting it in their diesel car in Tesco car park haha

27th February 2013, 12:03

as mentioned, very important to use the correct grade oil in the box regardless of use if its still running standard synchro's.

the only time you can run anything different is with a dog box.

27th February 2013, 12:08

Quote:

Originally Posted by welshpug

as mentioned, very important to use the correct grade oil in the box regardless of use if its still running standard synchro's.

the only time you can run anything different is with a dog box.

Yeah mate thanks, Just ordering heap of stuff today so can get this engine in trying to do it all right, buying them Group N Gear linkages and good oil and plugs and so on

27th February 2013, 12:10

Quote:

Originally Posted by DanoSaxoVT

Yeah bud, semi-synthetic. Haha! I've seen someone go in to a shop and buying cooking oil and putting it in their diesel car in Tesco car park haha

that's why tax on cooking oil is increased at the same rate as diesel now, so financially it's not worht it.

Supermarkets only let you buy small amounts now too.

27th February 2013, 12:14

Quote:

Originally Posted by MartinObviously

that's why tax on cooking oil is increased at the same rate as diesel now, so financially it's not worht it.

Supermarkets only let you buy small amounts now too.

Yeah they clicked on fast about people using cooking oil, getting bit of a joke price of fuel, mind in the day put £10 in half a tank now it just takes it off red ha

27th February 2013, 15:16

I use NGK BKR6EK spark plugs on my VTS and they work fine.

5th March 2013, 09:59

Why shouldn't you use fully sythetic oil? I've just bought some castrol edge 5w-40 fuly synthetic after a bit of reading and thats what it recommended on their website. Haven't put it in yet but you're making me worried!!

5th March 2013, 10:32

Quote:

Originally Posted by HD7

Why shouldn't you use fully sythetic oil? I've just bought some castrol edge 5w-40 fuly synthetic after a bit of reading and thats what it recommended on their website. Haven't put it in yet but you're making me worried!!

You'll get startup damage to your bottom end bearings, which eventually will result in conrod failure.

Like my old engine

The rod bolts did NOT break, they're a bit bent but I still got them.

Here is damaged caused by using fully synthetic oil over 5,000 miles.

5th March 2013, 10:32

As martin says its not good for the bearings on these engines, they were designed to use a semi synthetic blend

* Ha beaten to it. Another plus point is 10w40 semi synthetic is cheap even for a decent brand so you cant really go wrong using it in a standard engine, with a quality filter mind you

5th March 2013, 10:49

So send it back and just buy some castrol or silkolene or something 10w-40?

5th March 2013, 11:16

Quote:

Originally Posted by HD7

So send it back and just buy some castrol or silkolene or something 10w-40?

your 5W-40 is fine.

Just not fully synthetic.

Mineral or semi-synthetic is what you need.

5th March 2013, 13:50

Quote:

Originally Posted by MartinObviously

do NOT use fully synthetic. startup damage will finish off your big ends in about 20,000 miles.

Anyone else experience this?

Mr oilman recommends fully

5th March 2013, 14:59

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlackBox

Anyone else experience this?

Mr oilman recommends fully

Well I don't, and neither does my handbook

My poor TUD5B engine doesn't recommend it either

Fully synthetic doesn't "stick" to parts as well, so when your engine is off there's a noticeable difference in the amount of oil sitting in your big ends and other bearings. so when you start up you get a tiny scraping before the oil pressure builds up.

Another example (which I've seen on boxer engined aircraft) is when an engine is sitting for a period of time, engines which use mineral oil do not get corrosion on the conrods or camshafts. The aircraft which use fully had worse corrosion - enough to warrant removal of the rods for NDT.

That's what I've experienced and I'm sticking to it

I'm not saying there's right and wrong oil

just be aware of the advantages and disadvantages of the types.

5th March 2013, 19:14

Well I bought some part synthetic magnatec 10w-40 today. what shall I do with the other stuff? if I take it to halfords and say I bought it there will they give me an exchange? They won't be able to tell I didn't buy it from there will they? What's the deal with the barcodes? Will they know if it's been sold?

5th March 2013, 19:23

without a receipt, no chance
with a receipt might be lucky, its unopened and they sell the same stuff

5th March 2013, 19:49

Oil in my vts box is rated 75-250.

8th March 2013, 16:29

Quote:

Originally Posted by MartinObviously

your 5W-40 is fine.

Just not fully synthetic.

Mineral or semi-synthetic is what you need.

I'm currently using 10w 60 Castrol Edge FS on my VTS and nothing happened,should i go back to a 10w 40 semi-synthetic?

9th March 2013, 06:52

Quote:

Originally Posted by MartinObviously

You'll get startup damage to your bottom end bearings, which eventually will result in conrod failure.

Like my old engine

The rod bolts did NOT break, they're a bit bent but I still got them.

Here is damaged caused by using fully synthetic oil over 5,000 miles.

Holly shit! Don't thinking anyone will be using fully synthetic oil ha

9th March 2013, 06:57

I bought this stuff " Mobil 1 Super 2000 X1 10w40 Semi Synthetic "

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mobil-1-Su...item1e74c43e26

Link ^^

And plugs " Bosch Super 4 "

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bosch-Supe...item2c65862158

Link ^^

9th March 2013, 07:52

I just bought some Castrol GTX 10w40 for mine from ASDA, 5 litres for £20, it has been on offer before but think i missed it. I used to use the Catrol Magnatec as that clings to the internal engine components very well

9th March 2013, 08:10

This, I did post about it in general chat and someone reported back and confirmed: the stuff is £4 a litre of 10w40 semi on sale at the moment from ASDA, grab the bargain while it's there

Quote:

faaaaaaar*****'ell

9th March 2013, 09:13

I think there was more to the story than just using fully sythetic oil on that engine, someone calls bullshit.

9th March 2013, 10:00

same, that would have gone with full mineral, old pug engines aren't quite that sensitive, the newer EP are though.

9th March 2013, 17:39

Quote:

Originally Posted by DanoSaxoVT

Holly shit! Don't thinking anyone will be using fully synthetic oil ha

It wasn't my idea, but it's 1.5D so easily replaceable should anything go wrong

Quote:

Originally Posted by Manu

This, I did post about it in general chat and someone reported back and confirmed: the stuff is £4 a litre of 10w40 semi on sale at the moment from ASDA, grab the bargain while it's there

faaaaaaar*****'ell

After the rod broke I drove 120 miles in the direction of home, the rod swung in front of the crankshaft counterweight and locked the engine up instantly which bent the crankshaft as well and shattered the counterweight.

since it was piston 1, when it disconnected it impacted the oil pump and that locked up too and that even buggered the chain drive.

Eventful day that was!

Quote:

Originally Posted by wadoryu

I think there was more to the story than just using fully sythetic oil on that engine, someone calls bullshit.

Quote:

Originally Posted by welshpug

same, that would have gone with full mineral, old pug engines aren't quite that sensitive, the newer EP are though.

Call bullshit if you want. It's had an oil and filter change every 6000 miles since it was new and it only had 110,000 miles on it when the rod went. Previous owner was in her 50's and used it for commuting and shopping - in fact when I got the car the tacho used to stick at 3000rpm so I believe it to have had an easy life

I've never exactly ragged it either, it's been on a Rolling road and I've had it to 100mph twice.

The oil change before it went was when I changed to fully synthetic (it was castrol of some sort I still have the bottle lying about I'm sure). Since there's no reason the suggest previous neglect it has to be down to the oil I used.

As you said it's not that sensitive, and neither it was. It went for 5000 miles!!!

good day!

9th March 2013, 20:17

Only 110,000!

10th March 2013, 17:10

Quote:

Originally Posted by sexy_gt

Only 110,000!

Well the replacement 1.5D engine I found in a field and it has over 165,000 miles on it.

The 1.5D should do about 250,000 before a bottom end rebuild.