Done 16v Conversion but.. some problems

18th May 2013, 16:54

As above really.
All in, and has started, really really badly - Misfiring isn't the word.

I've got three fault codes, P0141 to do with the second Llambda, the plug was broken and i don't have a sensor nor a sensor hole - Ignoring this for now.

P0412, Something to do with air system which i don't really understand.

P1327 which a google search seems very Vague on.

The little pipe from inside the inlet on the throttle body side was blocked with a large screw, which i removed and connected to the FPR little pipe - Is this wrong?

I ask, because I had fuel coming out of the air tank thing inside the drivers wing!
Its a little broken so i've looped the pipes together, what exactly is this thing? Its got the sensor that a pipe goes through thats plugged in, and the pipe just comes off the inlet, couldn't really understand how fuel was getting into the canister thing?

Any help would be appreciated, as i Now don't have a car -___-

Thanks

18th May 2013, 18:06

The canisters is a carbon canister. Remove it and block all the pipes it'll be fine, probably causing a vacuum leak. Second lambda needs to read clean air, so it either needs t he plugged into a cat, or into a lambda sleeve.

18th May 2013, 18:13

Right will block those up now.

On the 16v is the blue lambda the front one and wjayever colour the other is the second one? Sure it says second lambda on the reader anyway.

Will the sensor be the same on my 8v? Ill simply chop and crimp as my plug isn't there on the 16v?

Also, it's running cylinders 2 and 3 and not 1 and 4 - I can tell by touching each branch on my exhaust!

Changed MAP sensor, tried another coil pack, timing still seems as it should, re earthed the little bit by the coil pack, etc etc

Worth changing crank position sensor? Same on the 8v?

Cheers

18th May 2013, 18:14

Right will block those up now.

On the 16v is the blue lambda the front one and wjayever colour the other is the second one? Sure it says second lambda on the reader anyway.

Will the sensor be the same on my 8v? Ill simply chop and crimp as my plug isn't there on the 16v?

Also, it's running cylinders 2 and 3 and not 1 and 4 - I can tell by touching each branch on my exhaust!

Changed MAP sensor, tried another coil pack, timing still seems as it should, re earthed the little bit by the coil pack, etc etc

Worth changing crank position sensor? Same on the 8v?

Cheers

18th May 2013, 18:24

P1327
For S2000P; check ignition primary pattern for excessive peak voltage and spark line too short. Should be greater than 1ms. This fault code is usually caused by interference.

18th May 2013, 18:26

Got that bud just can't point it out :/

18th May 2013, 18:30

Ok long shot,but there should be an interferance capacitor somewhere near the coil pack(interferance radio etc)check that its grounded properly all I can think of offhand mate.Or a break in the coil pack insulation somewhere causing a short.

18th May 2013, 18:47

Tried bud, tried alsorts - blocked the vacuums up now, seems odd that its 1 and 4 not firing, tried 3 coil packs all the same.

Tried a MAP sensor too
May try crankshaft sensor shortly I guess

18th May 2013, 18:48

Tried bud, tried alsorts - blocked the vacuums up now, seems odd that its 1 and 4 not firing, tried 3 coil packs all the same.

Tried a MAP sensor too
May try crankshaft sensor shortly I guess

18th May 2013, 18:56

Crank sensor would be my next move,if the coilpack isn`t getting a signal from the crank sensor(or intermittent one)then that could be the cause of you`re firing problems.

18th May 2013, 19:42

Crank sensor has sorted it bud! Got 4 cylinders now

PAS doesn't work though, I removed the original loom for it with the grey relay thing on it and then plugged the plug that fits into the PAS pump etc but nothing?

18th May 2013, 20:04

Quote:

Originally Posted by DavidKent

Crank sensor has sorted it bud! Got 4 cylinders now

PAS doesn't work though, I removed the original loom for it with the grey relay thing on it and then plugged the plug that fits into the PAS pump etc but nothing?

Sounds stupid but have you checked the fuse?

18th May 2013, 20:06

Oddly it worked when the engine was first started. Perhaps the plug was actually for some air recirc system? Wouldn't this explain one of my fault codes and also why it switches off when the engine has warmed?

I'm putting the original PAS loom on now anyway fuses were fine

18th May 2013, 20:18

Quote:

Originally Posted by DavidKent

Oddly it worked when the engine was first started. Perhaps the plug was actually for some air recirc system? Wouldn't this explain one of my fault codes and also why it switches off when the engine has warmed?

I'm putting the original PAS loom on now anyway fuses were fine

Quite possibly mate.

18th May 2013, 20:44

Sorted

Driven the car, it's definitely lacking power and does bog out.
Surely not an effect of the cams that badly?
I cn appreciate bad idle etc like it has but it just seems lagging a touch :/

18th May 2013, 20:51

Also p0606 has just appeared - PCM Processor fault, any idea?

18th May 2013, 20:56

P0420 is second lambda iirc so think thatcode is pre-lambda, will check 2 mins

18th May 2013, 20:58

O2 Sensor Heater Circuit is p0141

OBD Code P0141refers to
This code means that the heated circuit in the oxygen sensor on bank 1 decreases time needed to enter closed loop. As the O2 heater reaches operating temperature, the oxygen sensor responds by switching according to oxygen content of the exhaust surrounding it. The ECM tracks how long it takes for the oxygen sensor to begin switching. It the ECM determines (based on coolant temp) that too much time elapsed before the oxygen sensor began operating properly, it will set P0141. See also: P0135 (Bank 1, Sensor 1).
Symptoms

Possible sumptoms of OBD code P0141;
You will likely notice poor fuel economy the illumination of the Check Engine Light.

Causes, Possible causes of OBD code P0141;
A code P0141 may mean that one or more of the following has happened: open or short to ground in the wiring harness O2 heater circuit wiring high resistance O2 heater element resistance is high Internal short or open in the heater element Note: Typically a failed catalytic converter does not cause this code. You're more likely to see a P0420 code for a failed converter.

Possible Solutions;

Replace oxygen sensor (cannot repair open or short that occurs internally to sensor) Repair short or open or high resistance in wiring harness or harness connectors

18th May 2013, 21:00

My guide said bank one sensor 2 but I may be wrong, faulty sensor one would explain the running issue though

18th May 2013, 21:01

Yeah 0135 is sensor one according to what you just wrote bud, that doesn't say sensor 2 though my book does

18th May 2013, 21:02

P1327, check your coil pack, you will have a black lead with a capacitor on the end, make sure its bolted this down as an earth, it's there to stop interference, it will cause spikes with the coilpack if its not connected, if you don't know what it looks like ill post up a picture, that should sort your misfire problem - hopefully.

It's generally a code to do with ignition, so could be anything.

Also, the code shows with faulty knock sensors, could be why it's "misfiring"

18th May 2013, 21:15

Crank position sensor from my 8v sorted that one bud, p0606 is the new one now, odd as it wasn't there before :/

18th May 2013, 21:20

po606 http://www.obd-codes.com/p0606

18th May 2013, 22:13

Could this be Ecu related ? Dodgy ecus cause bad running and throws up faults I've had this on 2 vts's I've owned in the years

19th May 2013, 09:06

Possible I guess, 0606 does disappear from time to time which is odd.

Connected the blocked inlet pipe to the fpr now and it goes much better but does bog out a lot

Took a long time to start this morn too, like 5 minutes :/

19th May 2013, 10:15

Mine comes up with the p0606 pcm fault too.

Never caused a problem yet though.

27th May 2013, 14:03

Odd really, seems running better now - got a mapped ecu on the way anyway so will get that on.

Plugged it onto a proper machine earlier and it came up MAP sensor even though it was working, going to change that - then going to put another 16v crank sensor on and take my 8v one back off, then when the ECU arrives should only have 2 codes, one for second lambda and one for that sensor in the wing with the carbon consider connected to it whatever that actually is :/

26th June 2013, 09:49

Has this issue been addressed since you replaced the ECU. Earlier on you mentioned about from memory knowing which cyl was/ not firing via the manifold. It is only a suggestion but the engine is timed correctly. To much advance can cause allsorts of issues with emission related faults. These engines just have standard pulleys unless you have changed them of course I take it. There is no Vanos units or adjustable valve gears that could have jammed. I don't know this engine but may be worth considering

26th June 2013, 17:06

Thanks Mate

Timing was checked, checked again and checked again.

I've stripped and scrapped the car since, but the new owner of the ECU is having the same problem, so seems that the ecu I bought off here randomly went dud after fabricating some
Misfires and so on

Cheers