My Cam Pulley in Bits! Pics!

  1. #1
    Anyone seen this before on these 16v's?

    Side of the M40 at 6AM:




    Belt cover off:



    Argh!

    Needless to say I'm after some 708's and a 16v j4 head.

    Thanks for looking.
  2. #2
    Whoops move to Engine section. Ta!
  3. #3
    Last i checked mine was intact

    Bad times
  4. #4
    What were the retaining bolts torqued up to?
    Bad times also there, you get my sympathy
  5. #5
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Prickle View Post
    Last i checked mine was intact

    Bad times
    *are (theres two)

    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Gandi699 View Post
    What were the retaining bolts torqued up to?
    Bad times also there, you get my sympathy
    Whatever they should be when I checked 30k ago

    I've yet to look at the bottom end.

    The Pulley let go at 5300rpm~
  6. #6
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by bytor View Post
    *are (theres two)
    *I know....
  7. #7
    May have a good jp4 head
  8. #8
    Jesus! Not seen that before, bad times i feel for you!
  9. #9
    That's what happens when you set the belt tension with the engine/belt cold and when it warms up the head swells tightening the belt
  10. #10
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by luthor1 View Post
    That's what happens when you set the belt tension with the engine/belt cold and when it warms up the head swells tightening the belt
    How do they counter that at the factory or when a fresh builds been done? Or just run it until warm and retension?
  11. #11
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by luthor1 View Post
    That's what happens when you set the belt tension with the engine/belt cold and when it warms up the head swells tightening the belt
    no its not.
    3 users thanked this post: , ,
  12. #12
    I always set a belt on a cold engine slighty slacker than i normally would if the engine was hot to allow for expansion.

    However i doubt its anything directly to do with the belt tension. If a belt gets set too tight to cause any issues at all then the first thing to go is normally the waterpump bearings in my experience
  13. #13
    http://www.saxperience.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=451400....edit...its from a GTI so not sure if its anygood
    1 user thanked this post:
  14. #14
    shit unlucky mate :/
  15. #15
    tom5190 is selling his 16v engine with 743's, inclosed induction kit, mapped ecu and loom etcc
    1 user thanked this post:
  16. #16
    Cheers lads,

    This engine has 147k on it, either the bottom end or the head is causing it to burn a little oil. Only ever done cambelts and head gasket on it. Its had a hard life but it went well and recently came back from the ring.

    I've found a j4 head for £40, just need to look for some 708 or 743 cams for the right price.

    Not had the time to take the head off yet, if the bottom end is a dead then i'll start a fresh, but if i can get away with a quick head swap and some cams at the same time i'll do it.

    That belt's been on for 40k (year and a half) I doubt its the tension.
  17. #17
    I have a j4 block and head for 20, granted they are stripped, need gone tonight though
  18. #18
    Monka,

    One I've bought is complete barring Cams.

    Cheers.
  19. #19
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Gandi699 View Post
    How do they counter that at the factory or when a fresh builds been done? Or just run it until warm and retension?
    they use a belt tension tool and set it to correct tension ,wich allows for expansion .its also why the later wengines tu5jp4 have sprung loaded tensioner ,but that is no good for very high revving + lumpy cams if you modify
  20. #20
    bad times...
  21. #21
    Very strange failure state. Looks like fatigue. It's failed on the inside bolt mounting, as well as the external edge of the spokes. Very odd
  22. #22
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by welshpug View Post
    no its not.
    Yes it is angry-welshman!
  23. #23
    lol! I'm far from angry
    1 user thanked this post:
  24. #24
    you know a cheap fix would be get a complete jp4 engine change a few things over and you'd have a nice low mileage motor with potential
  25. #25
    Good shout, but the likelihood is I'll never go TB's, if I did I'd rebuild the bottom end in any case, therefore I see no reason to go jp4. (unless I'm mistaken here, if I'm just adding wilder cams I'm better off with a j4 head) Plus i know this loom and the rest of the engine is decent.

    The car needs to be back on the road for August due to another ring trip, so the way I see it is if the bottom end isn't smashed up, I'll basically do a head gasket change and put some 708's in at the same time. (Well it would be rude not to!)
  26. #26
    Well bottom end looks like its done 147k - well thats because it has.

    You can see some light marks on the pistons where its de-carb'd the indentations. I'm going build a new engine for this car so, i'm going to run this bottom end for 6-8 months.

    Got a new head for £40 cams and all in good nick. Time to put that on and get her back to the ring in August.





  27. #27
    Got any better quality pictures mate?
  28. #28
    Can do, of anything specific?
  29. #29
    Just of piston damage

    No real reason just want to see what it done at high revs
  30. #30
    Will do mate when I next work on the car.
  31. #31
    Forgot to update this.

    Some pictures of piston damage:





    Obviously I wasn't sure if there was any damage to the crank and bearings, I've had the car a long time so I decided to chuck some parts at it and see how it ran when done.

    Parts list:

    2 x 5/40w
    oil filter
    cambelt
    headgasket
    headbolts
    alternator tensioner (bearing was going)
    sealent
    hammerite
    electrical tape
    coolant
    powersteering fluid


    I'm sure there was other stuff.

    I cleaned out all the crap (burnt oil mainly) from the bottom end so it was at least fresh and clean. On 147k miles I could still see the manufacturing scores on the bores of the cylinders. Regular oil changes with good oil!!

    Old head:



    As you can see from the valves they are shot! And from the pistons the valve seals are gone, which would explain the puffs of blue smoke!


    New head:




    My rack was scary, so while the head was off and the rack was accessible I swapped that out as well:





    The sensors for the throttle body and inlet manifold were coked in crap, so they got a clean out as well as the throttle body itself, I'll prob revert back to a standard panel filter after seeing all that shit. Also did what I could with the injectors.

    Nearly done:






    As you can see not much time went into it in regards to looks, get it running and sort out the dirt later!




    Back on the road:



    Outcome? - The engine feels better than it has for a while, a general clear out of crap and a head that's in good nick has helped. I could have got a second hand engine for £200, but it wouldn't run like this does now, plus it wouldn't be my engine any more!

    I had a general tidy up in regards to sensors, wiring and anything else a miss that was accessible with half the engine out.

    Yeah I'm aware the bottom end could have been damaged and be a ticking time bomb, and if it was really important you'd get the bottom end checked, rebuilt or binned, but its a second car and it doesn't really matter if it goes bang.

    Thanks for reading.

    Scott
  32. #32
    Bottom end shouldnt be a problem, the damage to the pistons doesnt seem all that bad considering?
  33. #33
    Yeah it was pretty light, a few bits needing filling and sanding down as the metal was sticking up.
  34. #34
    That right leg and strut looks bad, Starting to rust through! no arch liners?
  35. #35
    Strut is fine, but under the ecu is fucked as you can see haha. I'll get around to it, the other side isn't far off that either. The boot could do with a brush down and paint. As always its money and getting around to it. Rest of it is rust free mind.

    This is a second car / backup car :-)