vts engine wont run??

29th August 2013, 22:27

my mate has put a vts engine in his furio the engine has 708 cat cams we had it running with furio fuel systum then plumbed in the return and that and wont run it fires but cuts out like its over fueling?? help please?

29th August 2013, 22:48

sounds like an immobiliser fault if it fires then cuts out.
have you got a light flashing on the dash?

29th August 2013, 23:08

Could be wrong here, but my guess is that the furio fuel pump isn't pumping enough fuel to run the vts engine therefore cutting out when started. I'm pretty sure the vts/gti fuel pump is essential with the engine conversion as the furio fuel pump isn't as strong as the vts fuel pump

I think if it was the immobiliser it wouldn't fire up at all tbh

Edit- does the engine actually fire up for a bit after its turned over or does it just turn over?

29th August 2013, 23:10

Quote:

Originally Posted by jones91

Could be wrong here, but my guess is that the furio fuel pump isn't pumping enough fuel to run the vts engine therefore cutting out when started. I'm pretty sure the vts/gti fuel pump is essential with the engine conversion as the furio fuel pump isn't as strong as the vts fuel pump

I think if it was the immobiliser it wouldn't fire up at all tbh

He said it was running with the furio system.

But it's no longer running after fitting the return fuel pipe.

I suggest OP fits later type VTS pump with feed only and no return.

29th August 2013, 23:39

Got a VTS Fuel Pump going for cheap :-)

29th August 2013, 23:56

my 16v lump runs fine with the 1.4 pump

30th August 2013, 10:09

It has all the pump pipes etc from another vts, it starts and runs for like 2 seconds took the plugs out and they are wet??

30th August 2013, 16:50

Quote:

Originally Posted by vts-mike

It has all the pump pipes etc from another vts, it starts and runs for like 2 seconds took the plugs out and they are wet??

It's overfuelling.

Are you using the standard fuel pressure regulator? you should be using a 3.0 Bar one.

30th August 2013, 17:47

Just using the one in the engine but when we had the 1.4 set up there were 2 fpr's the one at the tank and the one at the engine it ran with that

30th August 2013, 23:04

There are 2 codes p1327 and p0136

31st August 2013, 13:03

P0136 is your downstream lambda sensor (the one after the cat).

Unplug it and see if the car runs. If it does, then replace the sensor.

P1327 is a coil pack related fault code (usually), the coil pack has a small black bit of plastic with a metal end on it. it's a capacitor. it MUST be fixed to a good grounding point, otherwise your pack goes high resistance and you get a misfire on one or more cylinders. This could be causing the engine to stall.

31st August 2013, 16:10

cheers replaced the coilpack and its now running, im no mechanic and im unsure how to bleed the cooling systam can anyone tell me what to do thanks

31st August 2013, 17:48

Quote:

Originally Posted by vts-mike

cheers replaced the coilpack and its now running, im no mechanic and im unsure how to bleed the cooling systam can anyone tell me what to do thanks

Okay.

Get a bottle, take the lid off it and cut the bottom off it.

wrap some electrical tape around the bottle.

Tip it upside down into the top of your rad. This creates a header of water.

engine OFF.

Open the "tyre valve" style bleed nipple at the rear of the engine bay and fill the bottle with water. put the cap back on when the water flows smooth.

Next, there's an allen screw on the thermostat housing (size 5 I think) undo that until water flows out smooth.

Lastly do the bleed screw on the far side of the radiator, until the water runs smooth.

do NOT let the head bottle run empty.

Basically that's it.

31st August 2013, 23:13

http://www.saxperience.com/forum/sho...eding+radiator

/\ as obviously said but with pictures.