Saxo & 106 Wiring loom information - Splicing & Pin Data

  1. #1
    I've done a fair few loom splices for members on here & moaners over the last few years, it seems to have died off a little and I also don't really have the time anymore. I'm still doing it but not as many. Therefore I think its time I shared the info that I have.

    I made these diagrams/lists myself, please take that into account. As far as I am aware over the last 3 years I've not had any problems with the working of any looms using this pin data. However I hold no responsibility if something does go wrong. Please note that the information needed is only really 30% of what's required to do the job, if you don't know what your doing in terms of wiring looms and general electronics, then I would urge that you do it with someone who does, or pay somebody else.

    (I've not been on here in a while and I have seen a few pm's regarding fan info I'll go over that in here too)

    Please see this thread to identify which chassis plug you have: http://www.saxperience.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=441413

    IMPORTANT: The pin numbers on the chassis plug (engine side) count from right to left, all of the following info relates to the engine side. When 2 numbers are given i.e. CM103/CC2 this means that EITHER can be found on that wire, the wire does the same job.

    The following information covers the chassis plug found on Mk1, Mk2 Saxos & S1, S2 106's:

    S1 106:

    1. CM10E/CC2 - Ignition Live
    2. 1071 - Alternator Warning Light
    3. water blue 3
    4. 100 starter
    5. oil temp
    6. reverse grey
    7. reverse orange
    8. Rev counter
    9. 465 - Speedo
    10. water blue H
    11. oil g/plug white
    12. oil g/plug red
    13. oil rear sensor
    --------------------------
    16. - 820 - Immobiliser
    17. - 821 - Immobiliser
    --------------------------
    22. K-light
    23. 124/120 - Fuel Pump Live

    Early S2 106:

    Black Plug:
    1. CM10E/CC2 - Ignition Live
    2. 1071 - Alternator Warning ight
    3. 400 - Coolant Red Light
    4. 100 - Starter
    5. 410 - Oil Pressure Red Light
    6. C075/CH07A - Reverse
    7. 220/2210 - Reverse
    8. 425/426/429 - Rev Counter
    9. 427/428/1316 - Diesel Rev Counter
    10. 401 - Coolant Gauge
    11. 8225/182/CC3A - Air-conditioning Live
    12. 820/821 - Immobiliser
    13. 123/125 - Lambda Sensor Live (Note: this needs bridging with an ignition live if fitting engine to a later 3plug model)
    14. 465 - Speedo
    15. 821/820 - Immobiliser
    16. 140 - Diagnostic Wire
    17. 141 - Diagnostic Wire
    18. 142/480 - Engine Management Warning Light
    19. MM100 - Earth
    20. 435 - Diesel Coil Light
    21. 822 - Immobiliser
    22. Blank
    23. - 120/124 - Fuel Pump Live

    Grey Plug
    1. Blank
    2. 414 - Oil Level
    3. 415 - Oil Level
    4. 411 - Oil Temperature

    Early Mk1 Saxo:

    1. 822 - Immobiliser
    2. 140 - Diagnostic Wire
    3. 141 - Diagnostic Wire
    4. 821 - Immobiliser
    5. CC2/CM10E - Ignition Live
    6. 100 - Starter
    7. C075/CH07A - Reverse
    8. 220/2210 - Reverse
    9. 425/426/429 - Rev Counter
    10. 120/124 - Fuel Pump Live
    11. 123/125 - Lambda Sensor Live (Note: this needs bridging with an ignition live if fitting engine to a later 3plug model)
    12. 410 - Oil Pressure Red Light
    13. 1070/1071 - Alternator Warning Light
    14. 415 - Oil Level
    15. 401 - Coolant Gauge
    16. 414 - Oil Level
    17. 400 - Coolant Red Light
    18. 411 - Oil Temperature
    19. 142/480 - Engine Management Warning Light
    20. 820 - Immobiliser
    21. Blank
    22. Blank
    23. 465/1360 - Speedo

    Early 3-Plug ECU Chassis Plug (Mk2 saxos & S2 106):

    1. CM10E/CC2 - Ignition Live
    2. CH07A/C075 - Reverse
    3. 100 - Starter
    4. 822 - Immobiliser
    5. 820 - Immobiliser
    6. 2210/220 - Reverse
    7. 425/426/429 - Rev Counter
    8. 410 - Oil Pressure Red Light
    9. 1072/1071 - Alternator Warning Light
    10. 414 - Oil Level
    11. 415 - Oil Level
    12. 821 - Immobiliser
    13. 465 - Speedo
    14. 140 - Diagnostic Wire
    15. 141 - Diagnostic Wire
    16. 400 - Coolant Light
    17. 401 - Coolant Gauge
    18. 480 - Engine Management Warning Light
    19. Blank
    20. 411 - Oil Temperature
    ---------
    34. 124/120 - Fuel Pump Live
    35. 123 - Lambda Sensor Live (Note: this needs bridging with an ignition live if fitting engine to a later 3plug model)

    Later 3-plug ECU Chassis plug (MK2 Saxo & S2 106):

    1. CM10E/CC2 - Ignition Live
    2. CH07A/C075 - Reverse
    3. 100 - Starter
    4. 410 - Oil Pressure Red Light
    5. 465 - Speedo
    6. 820 - Immobiliser
    7. 822 - Immobiliser
    8. 425/426/429 - Rev Counter
    9. 140 - Diagnostic Wire
    10. 141 - Diagnostic Wire
    11. 414 - Oil Level
    12. 415 - Oil Level
    13. 411 - Oil Temperature
    -----------------------------------
    27. 400 - Coolant Light
    28. 401 - Coolant Gauge
    29. 480/142 - Engine Management Light
    30. 430 - Air-condition Control
    31. 8074 - Air-con Wire
    32. 8076 - Air-con Wire
    33. 8078 - Air-con Wire
    34. 124/120 - Fuel Pump Live
    35. 2210/220 - Reverse
    36. 1072 - Alternator Warning Light

    Tips:

    1. You don't need the immobiliser wires, if the ECU has been unlocked properly & the pins removed then they wont be doing anything. Immobilisers will not work on an engine conversion unless all of the necessary hardware is transferred with the engine.

    2. Air-con wires are always there, obviously this is useless in the UK as our models never had it. these can also be removed from the loom.

    3. The engine only needs 3 wires to run, that's STARTER, IGNITION LIVE & FUEL PUMP. If these wires are spliced correctly & you have no spark/fuel then your ECU is not unlocked correctly and/or you have a faulty Main Relay (Under ECU)

    4. I usually leave the oil level & temp wires in the loom tapped up in case they are needed at a later date. However if you don't plan on using 16v clocks then these can be removed too.

    5. I usually bridge the Lambda live into the CM10E ignition live wires further down the loom.

    6. If you are going to use an early Saxo 16v engine, there's a 90% chance that none of the wire numbers are still there, also with only using 4 different colours you need to be careful, cut 1 wire at a time, buzz it to the plug to identify the pin and then splice it. Don't get carried away and cut the full plug off at the start you will cost yourself a shed loads of time.

    7. MM100 earth in the early 106 looms isn't needed in a splice either, this can go.

    If you fancy more of a challenge and want an XU10 or something along them lines in the car then the following link has most of the Peugeot wiring diagrams that you will need for anything like that. To my knowledge a Citroen version of this doesn't exist. - http://peugeot.mainspot.net/wiring_diagram.shtml

    MORE TO BE ADDED
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  2. #2
    Fan wiring instructions:

    1. Saxo - Using Mk1 radiator & Mk2 fan setup

    First, on the fan open up the black box, there is one Phillips screw holding the cover on as you look at it from the front of the car.

    You need to bridge the blue and green wire coming from the relay, once that's done put the relay back into the fan housing and put the cover back on.

    Next you need to wire in an earth, there is an earth point just behind the battery tray or behind the headlight that you can use, just get a length of wire and attach a ring terminal onto the end, then solder this into the yellow/green wire coming from the fan plug on the radiator.

    Next there should be a blue wire from the fan plug left, There are 3 wires going to the original fan plug on the engine loom these should be green, pink & yellow. You need to connect the remaining blue wire from the plug to the yellow wire on the original loom.

    MORE TO BE ADDED
    1 user thanked this post:
  3. #3
    nice to see this is finally on here.. needs sticky.. ROSSSS!!!!! hahaha

    ive still got that file you sent me donkies ago tom
  4. #4
    Awesome, been hunting for this info for a long time
  5. #5
    great info thanks bud
  6. #6
    Hi All.


    I'm new in this site,i have problem with my saxo (mk2 VTS)
    I have changed Engine from 1.4 8v to 1.6 16v but wiring plug is not same,maybe anybody can help me? I have not so many time i must start this i weekend....
    I think i need some wiring diagram or pin number whith picture as both engine or the car side(1.4 8v) and the engine side(1.6 16v) if that possible...

    Thanks
  7. #7
    Hi there. Great post. I have just fitted my saxo vtr engine into my beloved ax gti. All I need to do now is connect up electrics. Can you confirm that the 3 plug ECU pin out wiring is that what you have posted. Just want to make sure I am looking at the right one.
    Cheers
    Garry
  8. #8
    The wiring lists there are for 3 plug & single plug ecu's, what engine loom is it that you have from the 16v?
  9. #9
    Not sure If you got the last message. My engine is the 8v VTR with the 3 plug ECU. I think it's the larger later plug. If I'm looking at the plug. From right to left. Right being no 1. This is blue? Is this the ignition live (CM10E)and all I should need to run apart from fuel and starter solenoid switch side. I am a bit confused because the diagram I have, think it's a Haynes, says the CM10 E is grey??
    Hope you can help. Really desperate to get running now and nearly there.
  10. #10
    Has anyone taken 1.6 16v from Berlingo/Partner ca 2000-ish?

    Do the have the imobilizer?
  11. #11
    I have got a saxo vts loom that ive identfied as the early mk 1 saxo plug. I am trying to adapt it to fit the early s2 106 plug but when ibhave checked the continuity from various components to your allocated pin positions they have come up different on both looms. Is there any way you can help me. Thanks, Chris
  12. #12
    Hi mate! Is they're any chance you'd consider doing another wiring splice, from a 2000 VTR being fittied with a 1.6 16v the plug is smaller on the engine loom than the loom on the car if you could let me know that would be brilliant thanks mate
  13. #13
    used guide and is perfect, i dont get the lambda wiring situation though, iv gone 3 plug to single plug, had a loom already spliced for the newer s2 plug type by pug 1off but mines w reg cross over (simple splice to older pin lay out by myself) and my cars plug iv used hasnt got the lambda live wire in 35 can i splimy chop it out of the other side and hook it up to 12v from there, or would it need sending to the lambda sensor
  14. #14
    car runs fine but begins spluttering and begining to think its this missing 12v for lambda, cos i can unplug lambda and no eml so somethings not right
  15. #15
    Hi everyone! I am new to the forum, and I don't know if I write to a good place or not. I want to ask for your help. I have a saxo 1.6 VTS (2001) and it had ignition problems. The engine was runing but was very irregular. The engine wanted to stop all the time and black smoke and gas smell came out of the exhaust. I knew it is some problem with the ignition. Under the hood I saw a wire coming out of the ignition transformer and that was melted by the heat of the engine. I put on some insulating tape on the small wires, and the problem was solved. But I dont want to leave it that way. It would be good to get a new wire, but I dont know how to ask for it at the local car part shop, because I dont know the name of that wire. I dont know if I can buy that single piece of wire or I have to buy the complete wiring loom. And I also want to know the cause of the melting. Why? It is not normal that the engine melts the wires around it. How can I prevent it? I attached a picture of the engine and the wire in red circle.
  16. #16
    Hard to see but that looks like a ht lead!!!!!!
    Have you taken the engine cover off and looked inside to find where the wire goes to?
  17. #17
    Yes, under the engine cover there is the ignition transformer, and this wire is connected to it.
  18. #18
    Tidy, that's why your car is running like poo!
    You can't get the leads singular unless you go to a scrap yard and find a twin cam Peugeot/Citroen.
    Best bet is to get on eBay and get yourself a set of ignition leads/ht leads or go to a local motorfactor. They're about £20 not sure what Euro is to pounds off the top of my head so I won't guess
  19. #19
    Just to add. It's melting because it's touching the engine. You could get a bit of coolant hose or something a little smaller, slice it, put that over leads and then wrap it in insulation tape, that should stop the leads melting on the block.
    If you replace ht leads, do them one by one so not to mix up ignition sequence.
  20. #20
    Oh and the smell of petrol is the unburnt fuel that's not igniting because there's no spark to the cylinder.
  21. #21
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Spendyrx View Post
    Hard to see but that looks like a ht lead!!!!!!
    Have you taken the engine cover off and looked inside to find where the wire goes to?

    J4's use coilpacks buddy, not HT leads.
  22. #22
    Ah right, coil plugs into sparks like on an 8v is it? Been a while since I looked on a twin cam!
  23. #23
    Hi there have a saxo vts loom and a 106 gti loom and plugs are different pins can i different plug up to loom with out any issues ?

    Sent from my HTC One M8s using Tapatalk
  24. #24
    hello guys, I also try, wiring for converting from s1 1.3 rally in 16v. can you give me a hand?
  25. #25
    mamba it will plug in run but non of dials will work, its easy splice to do though if your slightly capable. just make sure you label everything both sides of where your gonna cut the wires just to make sure you dont get lost.

    i have spliced single plug ecu with latest big plug/pin layout for 02 shell. also i have wired fan to work like the 3 plug type (no sensor in rad) and take it off signal change in thermostat wiring which makes it more fun(however that all works perfect) only issue with wiring is getting lambda sensor working, i do not even get an eml nd its not even plugged in currently.

    problem with car is it runs fine(albeit poor fuel economy and power loss) untill 5-10 mins down the road it starts spluttering its arse off and WILL die once its started doing it.. you can nurse it along but its a pain in ass to drive. with constant re throttling and more than a few seconds on the clutch it will die

    or you stop and restart car and it works fine again for 10 mins the repeats. hot or cold it makes zero difference. i didnt think lambda would cause the 2nd issue but since its not connected (i still have no eml light confirming it isnt) but the poor fuel economy and power is a given, simply baffled
  26. #26

    Thanks
    on my Saxo16v have no information of water temperature and no oil information maybe now i`ll try to find the connection.