Replacing a 1997 Saxo Clutch

  1. Newbie Joined: Jun 2009 Posts: 27
    #1
    It looks as though I hammered my clutch in first too much and it has died.

    I have never tried changing a clutch before but I thought I would give it a go.

    First off my Saxo is a 1997 1.4 petrol vsx, can anyone give me some idea on the scale of changing clutches how hard a saxo is. If anyone knows of a good guide that would be handy.

    Another question is which replacement do I buy? I have just had a quick look at carparts4less.co.uk and they sell the following.


    Valeo Clutch Kit Part Nos.: 641545140 for £50
    Valeo Clutch Kit Part Nos.: 641735210 for £48

    one says top says CPO and other says CP whats the difference? the ones with CP have my engine type listed TU3JP (if I remember right)

    other ones

    Transmech Clutch Kit Part Nos.: 641545141 £28 CP
    Transmech Clutch Kit Part Nos.: 641735211 £26 CPO


    Also some LUK ones but they are out of stock.


    Do any have a better reputation? the transmechs are £50 at eurocarparts like the valeo's. Other ones I have seen are National, Sachs

    Cheers
  2. Established Member Joined: Jan 2008 Scotland Posts: 1764 Because racecar
    #2
    Changing the clutch is easy a full day job if you have never done it before.

    Driveshafts out, gearbox off and then the reverse. You'll need a plethora of tools and bars. Especially for the gearbox bolts, they can be a right bastard to get off.
  3. Super Moderator Joined: Nov 2009 Cambridge(ish), UK. Posts: 10581 BMW 5x M50d.
    #3
    There is an EXCELLENT guide here:
    http://www.saxperience.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=314531

    With full pictures and step by step.
  4. Established Member Joined: Jan 2011 Aberdeen Posts: 1092 Turbo Saxo vtr, 2010 Octavia VRS TSI, mk3 Ibiza cu
    #4
    Clutch isnt that hard to do even for first timers, make sure your clutch plate is allinged correctly before you start putting things back together

    Go with a valeo clutch if your keeping the car (excellent quality) or try national clutches - there very very cheap.
  5. Newbie Joined: Jun 2009 Posts: 27
    #5
    I will take your advice and go with the Valeo one. Especially reading this about the Transmech ones

    http://www.saxperience.com/forum/arc.../t-347739.html

    -

    Anyone know the difference between CP and CPO.


    Am I going to need an engine hoist to change it or can it be done where it is?
  6. Frequent Poster Joined: Mar 2009 Posts: 649
    #6
    AFAIK the only difference between the clutches would be the bolt spacing on the flywheel.

    3 lots of 2 = early
    equally spaced = late

    or poverty spec is 180mm as apposed to 200mm
    1 user thanked this post:
  7. Super Moderator Joined: Nov 2009 Cambridge(ish), UK. Posts: 10581 BMW 5x M50d.
    #7
    Like I said - have a look in the guide. Step by step. Even a woman could do it.
  8. Established Member Joined: Jan 2008 Scotland Posts: 1764 Because racecar
    #8
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Ross View Post
    Like I said - have a look in the guide. Step by step. Even a woman could do it.
    When did you change your clutch?
    1 user thanked this post:
  9. Super Moderator Joined: Nov 2009 Cambridge(ish), UK. Posts: 10581 BMW 5x M50d.
    #9
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by chompy View Post
    When did you change your clutch?
    Paid you to. Bitch.
  10. Newbie Joined: Jun 2009 Posts: 27
    #10
    I think the guide must be for premium members.

    I will make do with this instead and see how it goes.

    http://www.saxperience.com/forum/sho...t=Clutch+guide

    ---

    Here are some numbers which maybe useful for others in the future, I am not sure they are all right as I just scrapped them from a website.

    SACHS 3000556101
    COMLINE ECK002
    MOTAQUIP VCK 471
    LUK 618169300
    VALEO 801256
    NATIONAL CK 9051
    QUINTON HAZELL QKT 723AF
  11. Newbie Joined: Jun 2009 Posts: 27
    #11
    Using the guide I linked to above I managed to change the clutch although not on my own. Getting the gearbox off and back on by myself would have been a nightmare. I also had use of an engine hoist to make it easier.

    A couple of things worth noting are that you need a square Allen key to undo the gear box oil valve.

    The gear linkages were hard to get off as they had sort of seized inside the rubber and the nipples were rusty.

    They were proper hard to get back on as well, the top most one easy enough but the bottom and middle needed to be leveraged on and ideally clamping/squeezing back on.

    The middle one actually popped off a few weeks later leaving me stuck in third but it seems to be okay now I squeezed it back on hard with some mole grips hopefully it will stay on. I am wondering if it would have been better to disconnect them at the other end (if possible) and leave them dangling on the gear box.
  12. L-plater Joined: Jun 2011 yorkshire Posts: 69 2002 Desire 1.1 Posi Blue
    #12
    The gearbox oil filler/level and drain plugs are often difficult to get out , particularly without a special 8mm square sump plug wrench. but you don't have to remove them when changing the clutch,; either catch all the oil that comes out when you remove the driveshafts and pour it back in through the top breather after re-fitting, or tilt the gearbox to empty it all out and put in exactly 2 litres of new 75/80 gearoil again through the top breather hole that's fitted with the black plastic cap.
  13. Saxperience Post Whore Joined: Apr 2011 Posts: 9100 Amazon green VTR 16v, Inferno RS clio 182
    #13
    It's worth buying some plug fittings though as doing it the way above will end up rather messy


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