Harness angle

  1. #1
    Right so my cage has harness bars, so it would make sense to use them, but because my seats are so loq, the bar is higher than the hole in the seat, so the harness is coming down from the bar if that makes sense

    Sort of like this MX5



    now the FIA ruling is 0-45 degree below, so obviously I'm out of their guidelines, but I'm not racing so that doesn't matter.

    Is it any real issue for track use though?

    I mean I was using an eyelets on the rear seatbelt points, and eyelets on the transmission tunnel and they were beyond the 45 degree

    Any ideas?
  2. #2
    scrap it
    1 user thanked this post:
  3. #3
    Get the harness bar moved. It's not a requirement just for the shits and gigs.

    Harnesses are not safe at they angles.

    Or you could sell me the cage and buy another one that will fit 😉
  4. #4
    As chompy said, you could just move the bar, this would invalidate any cage certificate though if you're bothered about that.

    The MSA guidelines are slightly different to the FIA as well, they allow a bit more leeway for upwards mounting (see below) although I don't think something like you've shown would be much good.

    At the end of the day, their purpose is to save your life in the event of a big impact so it's worth getting it correct.

    2 users thanked this post: ,
  5. #5
    Looks like 20 degrees up or more. Is it attached to the main roll hoop? If so its a rather straight forward task to adjust the height. The straps will hold your shoulders much better when corrected..
  6. #6
    That's not my car, it's the only pic I could find to show what I was on about.

    Mines like this :

    Just imagine the seat is 3" lower

  7. #7
    Why not just get us a picture of your car, dick?
  8. #8
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by chompy View Post
    Why not just get us a picture of your car, dick?
    Use your imagination, c unit
  9. #9
    I'd just lower the bar if the angle is truly off ...
  10. #10
    I'd have to get 3 welded in, 1 each side below the existing one, and in the middle of the main /\ if that makes sense
  11. #11
    I think you are asking a question to which you already know the answer!
    1 user thanked this post:
  12. #12
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by 106maxi View Post
    I think you are asking a question to which you already know the answer!
    This man makes sense

    Stop being a complete bender and fix it properly by selling me your cage
  13. #13
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by MuZiZZle View Post
    I'd have to get 3 welded in, 1 each side below the existing one, and in the middle of the main /\ if that makes sense
    errr.....why three? you have two currently!. A few minutes with an anglegrinder will cut those out, as you will need a shorter tube length they could be reused and all you would pay for is a bit of trimming of the bar to shape and a bit of welding...
  14. #14
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by KamRacing View Post
    errr.....why three? you have two currently!. A few minutes with an anglegrinder will cut those out, as you will need a shorter tube length they could be reused and all you would pay for is a bit of trimming of the bar to shape and a bit of welding...
    To have them straight the inner harness of each seat would need to be on a new bar in the middle
  15. #15
    Clearly the cage is not right for you. You need to change it and sell your current one for ultra cheap
  16. #16
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by chompy View Post
    Clearly the cage is not right for you. You need to change it and sell your current one for ultra cheap
    I'd angle grind it into a thousand rings of steel for postage!
  17. #17
    raise your seat and put a dome in the roof. Worked for the Ford GT40. Would look sick!
  18. #18
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by KamRacing View Post
    raise your seat and put a dome in the roof. Worked for the Ford GT40. Would look sick!
    Like the Jetsons?

    Or the car Homer designed?
  19. #19
    If yuo arr wanting that cage to be approved at some time for racing then -you cannot cut things out of it or weld extra bits on it
    you can calmp a bar lower down onto cage with scaffolding type clamps --but that all
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  20. #20
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by axsaxoman View Post
    If yuo arr wanting that cage to be approved at some time for racing then -you cannot cut things out of it or weld extra bits on it
    you can calmp a bar lower down onto cage with scaffolding type clamps --but that all
    I have the additional B pillar bar, but that's pretty much just behind the seats about 10" higher than the transmission tunnel
  21. #21
    My seats are basically on the floor and the harnesses are below the seat inlets, your cage must be pony

  22. #22
    I'm going to book onto the same day as your first outing and crash into you for the lolz
  23. #23
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by MuZiZZle View Post
    I'm going to book onto the same day as your first outing and crash into you for the lolz
    You'll have to catch me first, gay boy!
  24. #24
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by deano_123 View Post
    You'll have to catch me first, gay boy!
    Name the time and place
  25. #25
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by MuZiZZle View Post
    Name the time and place
    With my race-eqsue vinyl I'll look faster parked up (I cant drive for shit on track and havent been for about 4 years)
  26. #26
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by deano_123 View Post
    My seats are basically on the floor and the harnesses are below the seat inlets, your cage must be pony

    thats are really nasty lookng cage

    not tied to "b " posts
    rear fixings are far to far away from sides of car --will not save the car at all in a bump
    your fuel system inside car is totally illegal for racing as well --all fuel tnaks etc must be outside passenger compartment and fire proofed and fuel lines must be INSIDE roll cage -so they cannot get damaged in accident
    i could be wrong but i cannot see any load spreading plates under the feet of the cage ----suggest you look at the blue book --before you go to scrutineering for racing or rallying .
    that smell of petrol fumes you are getting in the car --thats because you are using wrong type of ends on fuel line --hose clips will never make a fume proof joint --swaged screw on fittings only
    no fuel filter between pump and tank ??? good for short fuel pump life
  27. #27
    It's okay John, he only goes up and down his drive in it, he's unlikely to flip it on its roof, although......
  28. #28
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by axsaxoman View Post
    thats are really nasty lookng cage

    not tied to "b " posts
    rear fixings are far to far away from sides of car --will not save the car at all in a bump
    your fuel system inside car is totally illegal for racing as well --all fuel tnaks etc must be outside passenger compartment and fire proofed and fuel lines must be INSIDE roll cage -so they cannot get damaged in accident
    i could be wrong but i cannot see any load spreading plates under the feet of the cage ----suggest you look at the blue book --before you go to scrutineering for racing or rallying .
    that smell of petrol fumes you are getting in the car --thats because you are using wrong type of ends on fuel line --hose clips will never make a fume proof joint --swaged screw on fittings only
    no fuel filter between pump and tank ??? good for short fuel pump life
    You've got a good eye there John