hi there, is any option to get better water pump on saxo, something with higher flow than stock one?
upgraded water pump for saxo?
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#1
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#2Why? There isnt anything wrong with the standard one?
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#3I use evans (https://www.evanscoolant.com/) and always have temp at 120+ at the end of special stage, and cant cool it down on idle. Thatswhy I ask for better water pump.
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#4I know of 1 Extremely modified 106 turbo where he has replaced the mechanical water pump with an electric water pump.. When I say modified this is a 400bhp Turbo application.
OE water pumps will be fine on the road and track applications... there are Saxos and 106s pushing 300-400bhp without issue -
#5Evans coolant is crap!!! If you're going to go for a waterless coolant you have to expect a hike in temps, it doesn't flow the same due to viscosity also it doesn't transfer heat as good so a aluminium core is needed to help the transfer to atmosphere.Quote:I use evans (https://www.evanscoolant.com/) and always have temp at 120+ at the end of special stage, and cant cool it down on idle. Thatswhy I ask for better water pump.
My advise would be to buy the pro drive coolant and go back to water based glycol coolant with a water wetter additive to remove surface tension and help remove a little cavitation around the impeller blades of the pump. -
#6there are 2 types of pump --16v one +8v one
different drive pulley size
but apart from that -my guess is your rad is not big enough and or thermostat is not working correctly .
yes rallying is high power and slow road speeds ,compared to track , but any good electric fan +rad combo should be able to keep temp down ,even though your sump gaurd will reduce air flow in engine compartment
could be your oil cooler is not big enough as well -
#7diesel or AC xsi rad is good enough, C2R2 MAX iirc used the 106 diesel rad.
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#8http://www.yoyopart.com/oem/3098284/nissens-61347.html
Brand:NISSENS
Part Number(s):61347
ProductName:Engine Cooling Radiator
Core Dimensions:530-322-32 -
#9Evans is nowhere near as good at cooling as water is.
If you think your coolant is hot at 120+, have a think what the actual head casting is running at.
The ONLY time you need to run waterless coolant is when there are magnesium components in contact with the coolant and corrosion is inevitable.
Evans is also flammable, so consider that when a stone holes your rad and it goes all over your manifold. -
#10Alloy Rad will reduce the temp at a reasonable price too.
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#11yep, stock nissens or oem rads are alloy.
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#12You'll need a BIGGER rad to get the thermal transfer rate back to what it was with water because the specific heat capacity of Glycol is much lower than water.
You've downgraded the coolant medium so you need to upgrade the cooling system to get back to where you were with respect to COOLANT temperature, however your head casting temperature will always be higher because Glycol just can't carry the heat away as quickly. -
#13Use an alloy radiator and a high flow thermostat. Some people remove the thermostat, but I dont think this a good idea...
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#14I agree with all above ---
do you have an oil cooler fitted?
you could try jacking up back edge of bonnet with long bolts and spacers as I feel your sump gaurd for rallying will be stopping air flow through engine bay -
#15what coolant do you prefer? motul mocool or something like that? please advice. thanks.
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#16and antifreeze also, for winter rallies
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#17Water, for optimum cooling efficiency. with the minimum amount of corrosion inhibitor.
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#18standard summer /winter coolant -If you need more than that then you have other cooling problems that should be addressed
that,s always been my view -
#19Citroen Antigel.
