Ignition barrel

21st January 2018, 18:42

Hi my saxo diesel ignition barrel is a bit loose and i read recently that these have a habit to get worn easy and need replacing. If i will need to replace the ignition barrel how would i arrange for the codes of the key? Or they will come coded ? And will i have any problems with the immobilizer?

On another hand how can i disable the immobilizer on the diesel saxo? Can i unplug wires or something and be done with it? my saxo doesnt have ECU, to be honest im not a fan of an immobilizer.

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21st January 2018, 19:12

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jonathancilia

Hi my saxo diesel ignition barrel is a bit loose and i read recently that these have a habit to get worn easy and need replacing. If i will need to replace the ignition barrel how would i arrange for the codes of the key? Or they will come coded ? And will i have any problems with the immobilizer?

On another hand how can i disable the immobilizer on the diesel saxo? Can i unplug wires or something and be done with it? my saxo doesnt have ECU, to be honest im not a fan of an immobilizer.

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First thing and most common: Have you tried tightening the ignition barrel? It's really common for the torx screw to work loose. it's a T20 from what I can remember. If you remove the steering column upper shroud, the screw faces upwards on the barrel and slightly towards the instrument clusters.

The immobiliser on diesel models is different to petrol models.

With the ignition on, you can unplug the immobiliser box (on a LHD it should be around the fusebox area near the steering column) and that will leave it "unlocked" however there's a small chance it can re-immoblise itself.

Even diesel models with an ECU aren't specific, the ECU's on 1.5D models hold no immobliser data. it's all on the pump, immobliser box inside and the key chip or keypad.

The only way to truly remove the immobliser is to expose the stop solenoid on the fuel pump and simply run a switched ignition live to it.

21st January 2018, 19:29

I will try tightening, which is the stop solenoid on the pump ? I have a bunch of wires as you said under the fusebox

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22nd January 2018, 14:00

you can change the ignition barrel and key blade but retain the original fob, therefore no messing with codes whatsoever.

22nd January 2018, 15:19

Ok thanks i will get it sorted later, one off topic question, i have an oil leak at the inlet manifold, small leak but evident, are there any gaskets available? Because haynes manual says to use sealant to install it

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23rd January 2018, 19:48

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jonathancilia

I will try tightening, which is the stop solenoid on the pump ? I have a bunch of wires as you said under the fusebox

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What fuel pump do you have? I'm sure you've mentioned it in the past but I can't remember. The stop solenoid only has one wire going to it, if you can't see it the armour is probably still fitted.

There's a black box, usually marked "texton" or something similar. it's about 50mm by 50mm in dimension. you want to unplug that with the ignition on. the engine doesn't have to be running.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jonathancilia

Ok thanks i will get it sorted later, one off topic question, i have an oil leak at the inlet manifold, small leak but evident, are there any gaskets available? Because haynes manual says to use sealant to install it

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Inlet manifolds on the 1.5d are fitted dry. There is no gasket or sealant.

The oil is probably coming from the crank case breather, it'll have built up over time. remove the inlet manifold and clean it with petrol. it's the only breather on the engine so it does spit out a lot of oil vapours.

The other possibility is the gasket for the camshaft cover although these normally leak at the front left corner near the timing belt and at the right where the vacuum pump is. You can buy these gaskets on ebay or from the dealer.

23rd January 2018, 20:11

Quote:

Originally Posted by MartinObviously

What fuel pump do you have? I'm sure you've mentioned it in the past but I can't remember. The stop solenoid only has one wire going to it, if you can't see it the armour is probably still fitted.

There's a black box, usually marked "texton" or something similar. it's about 50mm by 50mm in dimension. you want to unplug that with the ignition on. the engine doesn't have to be running.

Inlet manifolds on the 1.5d are fitted dry. There is no gasket or sealant.

The oil is probably coming from the crank case breather, it'll have built up over time. remove the inlet manifold and clean it with petrol. it's the only breather on the engine so it does spit out a lot of oil vapours.

The other possibility is the gasket for the camshaft cover although these normally leak at the front left corner near the timing belt and at the right where the vacuum pump is. You can buy these gaskets on ebay or from the dealer.

Sorry dont know which pump i got, only thing i can tell you is that the model is from year 2000

Crankcase breather you mean the pipe thats going into the valve cover? Because i dont have any oil there. Also valve cover gasket is dry no oil leaks as far as i can see. I see oil dripping from under the inlet manifold where the "collector" is

23rd January 2018, 20:19

How come haynes tells that you have to use sealant on the manifold? Or is this one of haynes usual lies lol

23rd January 2018, 21:09

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jonathancilia

Sorry dont know which pump i got, only thing i can tell you is that the model is from year 2000

Crankcase breather you mean the pipe thats going into the valve cover? Because i dont have any oil there. Also valve cover gasket is dry no oil leaks as far as i can see. I see oil dripping from under the inlet manifold where the "collector" is

No, the oil vapours are sucked into the inlet manifold, but the dirt and oil build up inside the manifold. There's no other way fresh oil could get there.

If you've got EGR that just makes the problem worse.

There's no gasket between the 2 halfs of the manifold either. this would allow any oil inside to escape and appear as a "leak"

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jonathancilia

How come haynes tells that you have to use sealant on the manifold? Or is this one of haynes usual lies lol

Yeah lies, I've had 4 now. from the S1 right through to my 2002 model none of them had sealant.

24th January 2018, 13:24

Quote:

Originally Posted by MartinObviously

No, the oil vapours are sucked into the inlet manifold, but the dirt and oil build up inside the manifold. There's no other way fresh oil could get there.

If you've got EGR that just makes the problem worse.

There's no gasket between the 2 halfs of the manifold either. this would allow any oil inside to escape and appear as a "leak"

Yeah lies, I've had 4 now. from the S1 right through to my 2002 model none of them had sealant.

Ok so i will take the manifold out and clean it, i have to take the top allen bolts and there are other bolts below?

Yes my car has an egr, i think a good idea will be to clean it aswell because i doubt it has been cleaned, what do you reccomend to pour down the intake to clean the carbon buildup in the valves and engine etc..?

24th January 2018, 20:17

I have checked the pump and its a bosch pump and it has a black box on top of it with a wire going out of it.

As for the inlet manifold there is wetness of oil where it meets the 'collector' and around where the EGR meets the manifold. Does the side where the manifold meets the head have a gasket? Or it is reusable ?

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25th January 2018, 20:32

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jonathancilia

Ok so i will take the manifold out and clean it, i have to take the top allen bolts and there are other bolts below?

Yes my car has an egr, i think a good idea will be to clean it aswell because i doubt it has been cleaned, what do you reccomend to pour down the intake to clean the carbon buildup in the valves and engine etc..?

Don't touch the ports on the head. If you loosen any hard bits of carbon it could jam a valve and bend it when the piston comes up. it's a head off job to clean that properly.

Looking at your pictures, I wouldn't even bother trying to clean that. it's years of oil mist seeping past the joins. it's not a leak.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jonathancilia

I have checked the pump and its a bosch pump and it has a black box on top of it with a wire going out of it.

As for the inlet manifold there is wetness of oil where it meets the 'collector' and around where the EGR meets the manifold. Does the side where the manifold meets the head have a gasket? Or it is reusable ?

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There are no gaskets on the inlet.

That black box is a swith for the EGR. the EGR will only operate below about 20% throttle when the engine is warm.

The stop solenoid is above the injector outlets, on a bosch pump the armour is extremely difficult to remove and nearly impossible with the pump still fitted onto the car.

The car works fine as it is, leave it alone.

Did you try to tighten the ignition barrel yet!?

25th January 2018, 20:40

Ok then better leave it alone haha, i think i wont even touch the egr and wait till its a problem, sometimes touching some things that are working fine makes them go bad instantly lol. I tightened the barrel yes and got another key as the other one was sloppy. Its fine now

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25th January 2018, 20:57

I want to do a spare key fob for the car, because i only have one, i found some fobs on ebay can i buy one and program it with the proper sequence? Or is it better to fit a hawk kit as i saw on other posts on this forum

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27th January 2018, 11:10

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jonathancilia

Ok then better leave it alone haha, i think i wont even touch the egr and wait till its a problem, sometimes touching some things that are working fine makes them go bad instantly lol. I tightened the barrel yes and got another key as the other one was sloppy. Its fine now

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The EGR almost never fail on these, they're really robust valves. either open or closed. not like modern EGR with stepper motors etc.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jonathancilia

I want to do a spare key fob for the car, because i only have one, i found some fobs on ebay can i buy one and program it with the proper sequence? Or is it better to fit a hawk kit as i saw on other posts on this forum

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an aftermarket kit is probably your best bet I would think.

It'll be too hard to programme another standard fob unless you have the blue keycard.

27th January 2018, 11:22

Ok ill taje your advice

i really appreciate your help martin youre very helpful thanks

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31st January 2018, 19:11

Is the armour on the bosch pump the one on the top of the fuel unions? Where there is the bosch part number stamped? Or the one where the fuel unions are ?

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2nd February 2018, 17:14

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jonathancilia

Is the armour on the bosch pump the one on the top of the fuel unions? Where there is the bosch part number stamped? Or the one where the fuel unions are ?

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I'll get some photos of mine when I head to my unit later.

It's really not easy to remove. It took me a few hours to do.

Yes it's like a box that goes above the pump head. (above the fuel unions) there's like a one way pin that you need to remove and about 4 "security" bolts. the ones where the heads snap off so they're round deliberately.

2nd February 2018, 17:21

Yeah yesterday i saw it, there was i think 2 allen bolts and others that are round as you said, you must drill them right?

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2nd February 2018, 17:42

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jonathancilia

Yeah yesterday i saw it, there was i think 2 allen bolts and others that are round as you said, you must drill them right?

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I used a grinder on mine. you'll need to re-fit bolts in their place as they hold the pump head in place as well. They are M6 and about 50mm long.

I guess you could drill them, I had the pump off the car when I did mine.

the little pin at the top actually goes through the fuel screw, so once the cover is loose dont try to pry it off.

2nd February 2018, 17:43

One more thing to add, don't try to cut through the cover. the immobiliser is right beneath it. if you cut into that you're stuck until you get the whole cover off

2nd February 2018, 17:44

I have a dremel handy to use also. You used new bolts after?

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2nd February 2018, 18:16

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jonathancilia

I have a dremel handy to use also. You used new bolts after?

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Yeah just normal steel bolts.

I own a dremel now! I never had one when I removed my armour a few years ago

2nd February 2018, 18:29

Ok good idea, yeah its very handy even for grinding rust in very small hard to reach areas, used it alot on that rust bucket of skoda felicia i had before lol!

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2nd February 2018, 22:07

I used a 115mm angle grinder, no issues.

3rd February 2018, 00:08

You will grind the armour aswell in using a big grinder thats not a problem right but have to watch for the immobilizer behind

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3rd February 2018, 09:13

115mm is not a big grinder lol.

3rd February 2018, 09:14

I know but i meant that its bigger than a dremel

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