16v turbo getting hot fast

  1. #1
    hi

    I have just got my turbo project up and running. and seems to be getting very hot and fast which it never used to. I have fitted a decomp plate the head was skimmed its still using standard injectors and standard ecu and a walbro 250 fuel pump. even with no thermostat in, the car will get up half way on the gauge in less than ten minutes idling I have bleed the cooling system at all bleeding places. once the car gets over half way on the temp gauge the water pipes become fairly hard. other than this the car sounds sweet idles nicely and and revs up nicely. feel like I'm being paranoid because it currently has no cooling fans and a disgusting old radiator. have a head gasket tester coming but wondered if anyone had any other ideas
  2. #2
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by georgewatts18 View Post
    hi

    I have just got my turbo project up and running. and seems to be getting very hot and fast which it never used to. I have fitted a decomp plate the head was skimmed its still using standard injectors and standard ecu and a walbro 250 fuel pump. even with no thermostat in, the car will get up half way on the gauge in less than ten minutes idling I have bleed the cooling system at all bleeding places. once the car gets over half way on the temp gauge the water pipes become fairly hard. other than this the car sounds sweet idles nicely and and revs up nicely. feel like I'm being paranoid because it currently has no cooling fans and a disgusting old radiator. have a head gasket tester coming but wondered if anyone had any other ideas
    Don't use the standard temp gauge as a guide, there's a reason it has no scale on it.

    Anything below the red line is safe.

    Get a good radiator, and an aftermarket temperature gauge so you can see the actual coolant temperature.

    don't ever run with no thermostat either, coolant that is too cold will cause damage - there's lots of air flow when you're driving.

    Also keep an eye on oil temp, you'll kill a TU engine in about 5 minutes with a turbocharger and hot oil.
  3. #3
    have a nissens one on the way but obviously I ordered it from euro so god knows if it'll even turn up and twin fan set up to go on. only not running the thermostat as again im waiting on a new one
  4. #4
    also does anyone know if there are any oem fitment 3 bar map sensors that'll work with a dta?
  5. #5
    Did you fit a restrictor in the water line? Just asking, rather that it being a solution or related.

    After it has cooled somewhater, is there air in the system?
  6. #6
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by sri_130 View Post
    Did you fit a restrictor in the water line? Just asking, rather that it being a solution or related.

    After it has cooled somewhater, is there air in the system?
    a restrictor?
    and honestly haven't noticed will warm it up again to day and see
  7. #7
    you probably need larger injectors and absolutely need it mapping properly.

    running lean will make it hot.
  8. #8
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by welshpug View Post
    you probably need larger injectors and absolutely need it mapping properly.

    running lean will make it hot.

    its only idling the turbo shouldn't make a difference? I do also have a 4 bar fpr I guess that could make it over fuel? causing the heat?
  9. #9
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by sri_130 View Post
    Did you fit a restrictor in the water line? Just asking, rather that it being a solution or related.

    After it has cooled somewhater, is there air in the system?
    just warmed it up for 20 mins and one it cooled there was no pressure in the system
  10. #10
    you need a stat in there or the coolant will flow too freely, not spending enough time in the radiator wont allow it time to cool. This may not be your problem but it will be contributing.
  11. #11
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by georgewatts18 View Post
    also does anyone know if there are any oem fitment 3 bar map sensors that'll work with a dta?
    There are 2.5 bar variants for the later style connector Bosch Number 0261230135 I think.

    There are several options for the early type MAP sensors with the 'junior timer' connector.

    ONLY buy one from Bosch directly, BMW (they fit R56 cooper S), Peugeot (207 GT/GTI or Citroen (DS3 turbo). If you get one off ebay or Euros you can guarantee it'll be Chinese shit.

    BMW R1200 injectors fit nicely, or S1000RR (top set) injectors. Their part number is 0280158038. S1000RR bottom injectors are 0280158037 and they are too small for a turbo application.

    DTAs are very good ECUs for 'club level' cars, but they won't drive the 'stepper motor' ISCV used in a TU.

    You can, of course, save yourself about a grand and just have the stock ECU mapped to take boost. There are many other advantages to doing that as well, besides cost savings.
    1 user thanked this post:
  12. #12
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by georgewatts18 View Post
    just warmed it up for 20 mins and one it cooled there was no pressure in the system
    Good stuff then. So how long did it take from stone cold, to switching the fan on? Do you have an obd blue-tooth thing? see if that can tell you the water temp.

    The restrictor is fitted, to force water through the turbo, otherwise it'll take the path of least resistance and flow through the heater matrix circuit depending where you tapped into the system. Presuming your turbo has a water feed, mine doesn't, but my old one did. Was curious to see if you'd fitted one.
  13. #13
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Chipwizards View Post
    .. Bosch Number 0261230135 I think.
    Exactly that. You are my hero Wayne.
  14. #14
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Chipwizards View Post
    There are 2.5 bar variants for the later style connector Bosch Number 0261230135 I think.

    There are several options for the early type MAP sensors with the 'junior timer' connector.

    ONLY buy one from Bosch directly, BMW (they fit R56 cooper S), Peugeot (207 GT/GTI or Citroen (DS3 turbo). If you get one off ebay or Euros you can guarantee it'll be Chinese shit.

    BMW R1200 injectors fit nicely, or S1000RR (top set) injectors. Their part number is 0280158038. S1000RR bottom injectors are 0280158037 and they are too small for a turbo application.

    DTAs are very good ECUs for 'club level' cars, but they won't drive the 'stepper motor' ISCV used in a TU.

    You can, of course, save yourself about a grand and just have the stock ECU mapped to take boost. There are many other advantages to doing that as well, besides cost savings.
    lovely when someone just gives good answers.
    bought a dta and Genuine Megan 225 injectors already unfortunately.. wanted to use you but you're bit far away for me. Lucky I got the dta at a very very low price
  15. #15
    The Megane injectors are OK but you need to mount them twisted so that the split spray pattern goes down the ports properly. You get see the orientation by the drilling in the body near to the top where the retaining clip dogs into to hold them in lign.

    Where in the country are you?
    I might know someone trustworthy to map it near to you. There's no shortage of cowboys.
  16. #16
    will have to look into that when I fit the injectors
    im in Somerset looking to use reidy remaps in yeovil been suggested to me by a few people I know
  17. #17
    It's always best to use someone familiar with the software you're using.

    Sandy Brown is down that way somewhere isn't he? I'm sure he does DTA.
  18. #18
    yeah sandy does dta I've seen a few posts on rallye reg from him about blocking off the icv and adjusting the throttle flap to get the correct idle. he will be mapping my brothers rallye sometime soon. but he's also quite a distance from us. I'm confident riedy remaps will get the job done though

    but thanks been a big help
  19. #19
    Cornwall from Somerset is next door :lol:
  20. #20
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by welshpug View Post
    Cornwall from Somerset is next door :lol:
    I think you're forgetting that place called Devon in-between the two it still over 3 hours away
  21. #21
    we've done 5-6 hours each way down to Sandy, guys have been over from the channel islands, ireland and scotland.
  22. #22
    personally id just rathe use someone closer to keep transport costs down and makes it easier to get it mapped agin if I make any Changes
  23. #23
    Lucky bastards, it takes me 3 hours just to get into England with a car on a trailer.

    Getting to Waynes was a day out in itself, and a long one at that!